i. 

EXPEDITION 

INTO 

SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



a. A, WSBSIBB, PBINTEB. JAIL ROAD, 




MO SEJLEKATSE. 
JCWG OF THE AMA 



NARRATIVE 

OF AN 

EXPEDITION 



SOUTHERN AFRICA, 

DURING THE YEARS 1836, AND 1837, 

FROM 

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 

THROUGH 

THE TERRITORIES OF THE CHIEF 



lOSELEKATSl, 



THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN, 

WITH A SKETCH OF THE RECENT EMIGRATION OF THE 
BORDER COLONISTS, 

AND A ZOOLOGICAL APPEND IX. 

BY 

CAPTAIN Wr C. HARRIS, 

H. E. I. COMPANY'S ENGINEERS. 
Member of the Bombay Branch, R. A. S.; and of the Geographical Society of Bombay. 



illttrfttatetr i>» a {Bay untt 29 1 a to t it g; 



BOMBAY: 

Printed 

AT THE AMERICAN MISSION PRESS, 
1 8 3 8, 



/ 



TO 

DR. JAMES BURNES, 
F. R. S. 

KNIGilT OF THE GUELPHIC ORDER, 

THIS NARRATIVE, 

IN THE PROGRESS AND PUBLICATION OF WHICH HE HAS 
EVINCED THE MOST LIVELY INTEREST, 

IS INSCRIBED, 

WITH EVERY SENTIMENT OF FRATERNAL REGARD. 
BY HIS AFFECTIONATE FRIEND, 

THE AUTHOR, 



" Afar in the Desert I love to ride, 

With the silent Bush-boy alone by my side : 

Away— away from the dwellings of men, 

By the Antelope's haunt, and the Buffalo's glen ; 

By valleys remote where the Ourebi plays ; 

Where the Gnoo, the Sassayby, and Hartebeest graze 

And the Eland and Gemsbok unlimited recline, 

By the skirts of grey forests o'er hung with wild vine 

Where the Elephant browses at peace in his wood. 

And the River Horse gambols unscared in the flood ; 

And the mighty Rhinoceros wallows at will 

In the pool where the Wild Ass is drinking his fill ; - 

Where the Zebra wantonly tosses his mane, 

As he scours with his troop o'er the desolate plain ; 

And the stately Koodoo exultingly bounds, 

Undisturbed by the bay of the hunter's hounds ; 

Where the timorous Quagga's wild whistling neigh. 

Is heard by the fountain at fall of day ; 

And the fleet footed Ostrich over the waste 

Speeds like a horseman who travels in haste ; 

Hying away to the home of her rest. 

Where she and her mate have scooped their nest, 

Far hid from the pitiless plunderers view. 

In the pathless wilds of the parched Karroo." 



CONTENTS, 



Page. 

Introduction . . xi, 

CHAPTER I, 

Voyage from India to the Cape of Good Hope, 

and thence to Algoa Bay . 1 

CHAPTER. II. 
Journey from Port Elizabeth to Graham's Town. . . 6 

CHAPTER. III. 
Journey from Graham's Town to Graaff Reinet. . . 13 

CHAPTER IV. 

Graaff Reinet— and final preparations for our Journey 

into the Interior ...... v .... . 22 

CHAPTER V. 

From Graaff Reinet, by the Snowy Mountains to the 

Borders of the Colony 29 

CAAPTER VI. 

From the Boundary of the Colony, across the Great 

Orange River to Kuruman 40 

CHAPTER VII. 
From Kuruman to Little Chooi . 50 

CHAPTER VIII. 
From Little Chooi, to the Meritsane River. . , . 61 

CHAPTER IX. 
Hunting at Meritsane. .......... 72 



viiL CONTENTS. 

CAHPTER X. 

Page. 

From Meritsane to Mosega, the Capital of the Chief 

Moselekatse 81 

CHAPTER XI. 



From Mosega to the Kurrichane Mountains. ... 96 

CHAPTER XII. 
Arrival at Kapain, and visit from the Chief Mosele- 



katse 104 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Residence at Kapain , . . . . 115 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Residence at Kapain, continued 124 

CHAPTER XV. 

Departure from Kapain, and arrival at the Mariqua 

River 135 

CHAPTER XVI. 

From the Mariqua river to Tolaan, the residence of 

Moselekatse's son . . . 143 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The Matabili described — arrival at the River Sima- 

lakate 151 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Meeting with Kalipi's Commando, and arrival at the 

Cashan Mountains. 164 

CHAPTER XIX. 



ilhinoceros and wild Buffalo Hunting along the 
Cashan Mountains , 157 



CONTENTS. ix. 
CHAPTER XX, 

Page. 

Elephant Hunting in the Cashan Mountains. ... 188 

CHAPTER XXI. 
Elephant Hunting, continued — and Lion shooting from 

the waggons . 198 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Hippopotamus shooting — and Hunting in the valley 

of the Limpopo 206 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Excursion to the Eastward — and Journey to the North- 
ward across the Cashan Mountains 217 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Hunting the Cameleopard or Giraffe 22? 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Return to the Southward from the Tropic of Capri- 
corn 236 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Interview with Um'Nombate, and Journey through the 

Cashan Mountains to the Southe-astward. . . . 245 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Discovery of a New Antelope, and final departure 

from the Cashan Mountains towards the River Vaal. 256 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Desertion of our Escort, and arrival at the River Vaal 267 

CHAPTER' XXIX. 
Exit from Moselekatse's Dominions, and passage 
across the Nama-Hari. .......... 27 6 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Page. 

Three days' solitary wandering in the wilderness, . 286 

CHAPTER XXXI. 
Journey resumed, to the 'Gy Koup, or Vet Riviere 



of the Emigrants 297 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

Plundered by Bushmen Hordes, and left a wreck in 

the desert 307 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 
Night attack on the Marauders 318 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Excursion on horseback in quest of assistance, and 

meeting with the Emigrant Farmers 327 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

Return to Civilization, and arrival in the Cape Colony. 336 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Sketch of the Emigration of the Border Colonists. . . 344 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Emigration of the Border Colonists concluded . . . 355 

Zoological Appendix 369 

Prospectus of Capt. Harris's African Views. . . . 397 
List of Subscribers to the present work 399 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 

King Moselekatse— -Frontispiece. 

Map — to face • . . . Page 1 

Elands, and Game scene 75 

Matabili Warrior 169 

Giraffes 229 



INTRODUCTION. 



From my boyhood upwards, I have been taxed by 
the facetious with shooting madness, and truly a 
most delightful mania I have ever found it. My 
first essay in practical gunnery was made at the 
early age of six, by the discharge of an enormous 
blunderbuss, known to the inmates of my paternal 
mansion by the familiar soubriquet of "Betsy" 
A flock of sparrows perched upon the corner of a 
neighbour's pigstye, were the only sufferers; but 
information was maliciously laid against me, and I 
underwent severe corporal chastisement. About a 
year afterwards I took ample revenge upon my ill- 
natured neighbour, by pinking his ducks and geese 
with a cross-bow of my own construction ; but my 
catapult was unfortunately discovered, seized, and 
confiscated. I next clubbed my Christmas capital 
with that of two sporting confederates, and raised 
a sufficient joint stock to purchase a condemned 
musquet, with which during the holiday vacation, 



xiL 



INTRODUCTION. 



we shot, and tyed. But the partnership proving un- 
satisfactory, it was soon dissolved by mutual consent, 
and I found myself sole and undisputed Master of 
the Ordnance. From this eventful and dignified 
epoch in my life, I date my rapid improvement in 
the noble science of projectiles. 

After this sketch of my puerile biography, it is- 
scarcely necessary to inform the reader that I was con- 
sidered by my partial friends to be fitting food for 
shot and powder. Accordingly I was entered at 
the Military College, where my worthy superiors 
having pronounced me competent for a commission 
in the Engineers, I found myself at the early age of 
sixteen, an officer of that distinguished Corps in 
Western India; one of the not least valued of my 
distinctions being the possession of a rifle, before 
the deadly grooves of which a kite had but little 
chance at one hundred and fifty yards. Armed with 
this weapon, I had ample opportunities of indulging 
in my favorite pursuits, and may safely affirm, that 
during many years, I enjoyed ball-practice in per- 
fection. 

But whilst silently stealing on the recent tracks 
of the " an tiered monarch of the waste/' or perse- 
veringly stalking a stately buck— whilst urging my 
elephant to his utmost speed in pursuit of a retreat- 
ing tiger, or contemplating with delight the grizly 
figure of a prostrate lion — how frequently did my 



INTRODUCTION. 



XllL 



thoughts wander to the wilds of Africa, the tales of 
sport connected with which had ofttimes reached my 
ears, and how impatiently did I long to make the 
acquaintance of her motley group of four footed 
denizens. Often in my dreams, did I see at the ex- 
tremity of a long vista of years, that intervened be- 
twixt me and my furlough, the slender and swan- 
like neck of the stately Giraffe, bowing distantly to 
our better acquaintance; Behemoth, with his square 
and mirth-exciting snout protruded from the yellow 
waters of a vast river, acting the part of master of 
the ceremonies; whilst a host of Rhinoceroses, sup- 
ported by gigantic Elephants, eccentrically horned 
Antelopes, and other fascinating strangers, awaited 
their turn of presentation with evident impatience. 

With such strong impressions, it will easily be be- 
lieved that I scarcely regretted the sentence of a 
Bombay Medical Board, transporting me for two 
years to the Cape of Good Hope; and as this was 
accompanied with a welcome recommendation to 
travel, I made preparations before quitting India, to 
penetrate into the interior of Africa. It would be 
injustice to myself, however, to leave an impression 
that sport was my only object — for both from edu- 
cation and taste, I possessed an ardent desire to 
contribute my mite to the Geography and Natural 
History of the countries I was about to explore. 

At the period of my arrival at the Cape of Good 



xiv. INTRODUCTION. 

Hope, public attention was much excited by an event 
which has probably no parallel in our Colonial his- 
tory. I allude to the emigration of a large body of 
Dutch Farmers, who voluntarily forsook the British 
protection and territory, to effect an establishment 
in the wilderness, where it was believed — as indeed 
the result fully proved — they would encounter the 
severest hardship; and it was no small additional 
spur to my spirit of enterprise, that I might trace 
the steps of these wanderers, and, without mingling 
in politics, investigate on the spot, the origin of so 
remarkable an expatriation. The map that accom- 
panies this volume, for the outlines of which I am 
indebted to Arrowsmith's Atlas, published in 1S34, 
is principally illustrative of the history of this sin- 
gular event. Many interesting Geographical chasms 
however, have also been filled up, and numerous ad- 
ditions made, either from personal observation, or 
from materials obligingly furnished by missionaries 
and intelligent traders, upon whose correctness I 
could rely. Nothing has been inserted upon vague 
report; and although it will be remarked that my 
inconvenient mode of travelling would not admit of 
my making a strictly scientific survey, I trust that 
I have been enabled to embody information of inter- 
est and importance, in a manner sufficiently accurate 
to answer the object in view. 

My passion for venerie had long afforded me op- 



INTRODUCTION. 



XV. 



portunities of discovering that the delineations given 
in popular books of Natural History, of many of 
the larger quadrupeds, were far from being correct; 
and I had during my service in India, devoted a por- 
tion of my leisure to making more accurate portraits 
of them with appropriate scenery. A wide field for 
the gratification of this taste lay before me in Africa, 
of which I did not fail to avail myself, nor do I 
despair of being enabled shortly to lay before the 
Public, the result of my labours in this department.* 
These pages were originally written for the peru- 
sal of some of my brother officers in India, with 
whom I have oft stalked the forest, and scoured the 
plain, and it is to them chiefly that I still present 
them, trusting that in the scenes described, they will 
recognize their friend and brother huntsman, and 
participate with him in the emotions which the over- 
powering excitement of African wild sports natu- 
rally produced in his breast. I knew them to be 
persons equally attached to the pleasures of the 
chase with myself, but generally unacquainted with 
African story, which will account for the occasional 
introduction of information derived from works 
already published. My journal having however casu- 
ally fallen into the hands of others, not sportsmen, 
whose opinions I respect, and to whom it afforded 

*See Prospectus attached to the end of this volume, 



xvi. 



INTRODUCTION. 



gratification, I have ventured to submit it to the 
public, being assured that my habits of life, and 
occupation in the details of military duty, will af- 
ford a ready excuse for the imperfections it contains, 
more particularly when I add that it has passed 
through the press without my personal corrections 
and at a distance of some hundred miles from the 
cantonment in which I am quartered. 

From my absence also, I have been unable to su- 
perintend the printing of the lithographed drawings, 
for the appearance of which, to those who know 
the state of the lithographic art at Bombay, I need 
offer no apology ; while to my readers at a distance 
from India, I can only say that no labor was want- 
ing on my part to render them creditable, and that, 
before the originals left Belgaum, they had received 
the approbation of qualified judges, whatever may 
be now thought of the impressions. They have in 
fact been destroyed by natives to whom they were 
unavoidably entrusted, and I lament that the preva- 
lence of the rainy season precludes the possibility 
of my supplying others. 

W. C. Harris. 



Belgaum, 15th July, 1838. 



INTRODUCTION. 



xviL 



POSTSCRIPT. 

August 1st 1838. — Recent files of the Graham's 
Town Journal, which have been received in India 
since the following pages were printed, contain 
a tragic sequel to the History of the Border Colo- 
nists. It appears that in February last, an ad- 
vanced party of the Emigrants, led by Retief, 
having negociated a formal treaty with Dingaan, 
had been suffered to pass unmolested through the 
territories of that chieftain, to Port Natal, in 
the neighbourhood of which they had proposed to 
establish themselves. Being lulled into perfect se- 
curity by the friendly reception they had experienced, 
many families imprudently detached themselves from 
the main body, and were actively engaged in the di- 
vision of the land ; when, on the fifth day after their 
separation, they were treacherously attacked by the 
crafty savage, and man, woman and child, indiscri- 
minately butchered. It is confidently reported that 
Retief, together with two hundred and seventy souls, 
had thus miserably perished ; and the intelligence of 
the dreadful catastrophe having been conveyed to Ma- 
ritz, he was exerting himself to obtain reinforcements 
from among the Emigrants who were still on the Reit 
andModder rivers, with the design of taking summary 
vengeance on the despot, and succouring the remnant 



XV111. 



INTRODUCTION. 



of Retief's unfortunate party; but so great had been the 
panic created, that his endeavors had hitherto proved 
unsuccessful; and the escape of the survivors from 
their hampered position among hostile tribes, and 
natural barriers, being next to impossible, as a glance 
at the map will show, it is too probable that accounts 
will shortly be received of still further massacres. 

In the mean time our Colonial authorities were 
using their utmost exertions to check further emi- 
gration, as will appear from the following extract of 
a proclamation by the Governor, dated Cape Town, 
the 26ih April last. " His Excellency earnestly 
exhorts the Civil Commissioners and all Public Func- 
tionaries throughout the Colony, as well as all 
ministers of religion, and other persons of sound 
views, who cannot but foresee the inevitable result 
of the prevailing mania of emigration, to endeav- 
our by every means in their power, to dissuade in- 
tending emigrants from the prosecution of plans 
which cannot fail, sooner or later, to involve them- 
selves, and their families who are prepared to ac- 
company them, in certain and irretrievable ruin." 



W. C. H. 



EXPEDITION 



INTO 

SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



CHAPTER I. 



VOYAGE FROM INDIA TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 
AND THENCE TO ALGOA BAY. 

On the 16th March 1836, I sailed from Bom 
bay in a large Indiaman, advertised to be a fast 
sailer, fitted up expressly for passengers. Amongst 
many others who, like myself, had been attracted 
by this inviting announcement to enter upon a voyage 
to the Cape of Good Hope, was William Richardson, 
Esquire, of the Bombay Civil Service, a gentleman 
whose acquaintance I had never before had the 
pleasure of cultivating, but who had long been 
known to me by repute as a devoted sportsman. 
To him I communicated my intention of penetrat- 
ing as far into the interior of Africa as my limited 
leave would permit, and he immediately agreed to 

1 



2 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. I. 



accompany me, embarking from that moment heart, 
hand, and purse, in the plan I had projected. The 
usual duration of the voyage is six weeks, but in our 
case it was protracted to eleven, nor did we reach 
Simon's Bay until the 31st May. 

The first glimpse of the shores of Africa awak- 
ened in my bosom the strongest emotions. I al- 
ready saw realized those fairy dreams which had 
haunted my imagination, and felt within my grasp 
the substance of those shadows which had long 
strewed my path. On arriving at Cape Town, I 
was so fortunate as to meet with Dr. Andrew Smith, 
the well known talented leader of the scientific ex- 
pedition which had just returned from the interior, 
who afforded me information of the highest value, 
and gave me accounts of what I should see in the 
way of sport, which determined me to lose no time 
in taking the field. A few days sufficed to complete 
our arrangements and purchases. The former were 
confined to obtaining passports, visiting the chil- 
dren of Missionaries whom we expected to meet, 
and engaging a servant, whose name will frequent- 
ly appear, in lieu of a Mahomedan whom I had 
brought from India, and who, having already seen 
enough of the Cape of Good Hope, preferred return- 
ing to eat his curry with true believers, to under- 
going contamination amongst accursed Kafirs or in- 
fidels. Our purchases comprised every article that 



Chap. I.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



3 



we fancied could be of service to us in a country 
where few of the necessaries, and none of the luxuries 
of life can be obtained, in which no circulating me- 
dium exists, and where even mercantile transactions 
are conducted exclusively by barter. Beads, buttons, 
brass wire, common trinkets, cheap gewgaws, and 
ornaments of the baser metals, formed no inconsider- 
able items of our expenditure, not forgetting an 
abundant supply of snuff and tobacco. I had brought 
with me from India pots, kettles, and camp furni- 
ture, together with my tent, and an ample stock of 
gunpowder ; and a Parsee servant, named Nesser- 
wanjee Motabhoy, who had accompanied my friend 
Richardson, declared his determination of following 
our fortunes. 

By Dr. Smith's kind advice, we ordered from a 
tailor in Cape- town, as a present, amongst others, to 
the redoubted Chief Moselekatse, called by some 
Umsiligas, whom we proposed to visit, a great 
coat, in itself so perfectly unique that I may be 
excused for describing it. Of dimensions suited to 
the figure of a portly gentleman, pointed out by 
the Doctor, as resembling the Chief, it was com- 
posed of drab Duffel, a coarse shaggy cloth com- 
monly worn by the colonists, surmounted by six 
capes, and provided with huge bone buttons, and a 
ponderous brazen clasp in the shape of a crest, the 
whole being lined and fancifully trimmed with scar- 
let shalloon in a manner calculated to captivate 



4 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. I. 



the taste, and propitiate the esteem, of the most 
despotic and capricious of savages. 

With this curious investment, we embarked on 
the 2d July in a small schooner bound for Algoa 
Bay, one of our fellow passengers from India ac- 
companying us to the pier, unable to persuade him- 
self, until the boat had fairly pushed off, that we 
really intended to venture upon a second voyage 
in such a craft so immediately after the trou- 
bles we had undergone. In addition to a mate, a 
cook, and a Mozambique negro, dignified with the 
appellation of steward, our crew consisted of three 
men and a boy ; our fellow passengers being two 
adventurers, who occupied the berth opposite to 
our own in the only cabin, and a tailor, with his 
wife and nine daughters, some marriageable, others 
at the breast. This unfortunate family, every mem- 
ber of which was sea-sick during the whole voyage, 
located themselves in the steerage, an apartment 
about eight feet square, ventilated only by the 
hatchway. The passage up the Coast at that season 
seldom occupies more than three days, but the fates 
decreeing that our progress should still be opposed, 
adverse w T inds had taken the place of the north- 
wester, which had been blowing without intermission 
during the preceding six weeks, and which, had it 
but continued a day longer, would have wafted us to 
our destination. 

The little vessel was usually gunwale under. 



Chap. I.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



5 



Stormy seas breaking over her, obliged the tailor to 
seal up his family hermetically; heavy lurches during 
the night ejected us from our narrow precincts, 
and more than once brought my companion, who 
slept in a shelf above me, and myself, into awk- 
waid and violent collision; whilst the rolling dur- 
ing the day repeatedly swept the table, and deposit- 
ed the viands in our laps. Being the whole time 
within sight of land, no observations were taken, 
and on the afternoon of the eighth day we entered 
St. Francis* Bay, in mistake for that of Algoa, not 
discovering our error until w r e were about to let go 
the anchor. The opinions on the subject were vari- 
ous and conflicting. The tailor, who had made 
the voyage before, courageously ascended the mast- 
head, in spite of the remonstrances of his love sick 
spouse, to make an attempt at recognition: and re- 
gaining the deck gravely asserted that we were in 
Plettemberg's Bay, nearly two degrees to the west- 
ward. Doubts being entertained of the soundness 
of his opinion, we were consulted. The chart was 
produced, and being satisfied that we were close to 
Cape Recif, a dangerous reef of rocks, we advised 
the ship to be hove to ; but sail having been again 
made during the night, we contrived to weather the 
point, and having narrowly escaped foundering on 
the Bird Islands, floundered by good fortune into the 
harbour of Port Elizabeth. 



6 



CHAPTER II. 



JOURNEY FROM PORT ELIZABETH TO GRAHAM'S 
TOWN. 

Algoa Bay is exceedingly open and exposed, and 
the anchorage very insecure. During high winds 
ships not unfrequently go on shore, a tremendous 
surf often rendering it dangerous, and at times even 
impossible, for boats to land. We were fortunate in 
being able to prevail on the Port Captain to take us 
ashore in his barge, a favor which our uncouth ha- 
biliments rendered him somewhat cautious in vouch- 
safing. The town of Port Elizabeth, though rapidly 
increasing, does not consist of above one hundred 
and fifty houses, It is built along the sea shore on 
the least eligible site that could have been selected. 
The soil in the neighbourhood is a sandy loam, pro- 
ducing fine crops of wheat and barley without irriga- 
tion, its contiguity to the sea affording sufficient mois- 
ture. 

We tarried a week at Mrs. Scorey's fashionable 
hotel, and were actively engaged in an attempt to 
purchase horses, which we understood were to be ob- 



Chap. II.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



7 



tained in the adjoining districts in considerable num- 
bers, and of an excellent quality. It was with incon- 
ceivable difficulty, however, that we at length suc- 
ceeded in procuring two miserable quadrupeds, that 
appeared to have scarcely sufficient stamina to carry 
us to Graham's Town. The lecent Kafir war having 
trebled the price of every thing, and of live stock in 
particular, the demands upon us were exorbitant. 
With the assistance of Colonel Tripp, the Command- 
ing Officer at Algoa, from whom we experienced 
great kindness and hospitality, we also became the 
proprietors of a comfortable travelling waggon^ seven- 
teen feet in length, and a span or team of twelve tough 
little Faderland oxen. The former owner, an hon- 
est Yorkshireman, named Matthews, whom I special- 
ly recommend to all persons requiring a similar 
conveyance, was with difficulty induced to part with 
it, and after twelve months experience of its comforts 
we had no hesitation in pronouncing it to be a cheap 
and valuable purchase. 

With this vehicle, driven by a drunken Hottentot, 
we took the road to Graham's Town under convoy 
of Joe Butler, a merry Irishman, of whom we had 
hired a second w 7 aggon for the conveyance of our 
wares. The activity and skill displayed by Joe in 
the guidance of his straggling team of oxen, and the 
unerring dexterity with which he wielded his long 
and formidable whip, did not fail to excite in us the 



8 



EXPEDITION" INTO 



[Chap. If. 



sarae astonishment that has been expressed by every 
traveller in South Africa. Richard, my new valet, 
voluntarily assumed the office of cook, conceiving 
himself also, in virtue of the experience he had ac- 
quired during a trip to Litakoo, a few years before, 
with a party of Indian gentlemen, specially charged 
with our safety. On this occasion, however, he had 
strangely forgotten to lay in supplies for the road, 
and we fared badly in consequence. 

In the course of the journey few incidents occur- 
red worth mentioning. With the assistance of But- 
ler's team, making in all twenty-four oxen, we ascend- 
ed the Zwartcop mountain by a steep and difficult 
acclivity during the first night, and encamped near 
an extensive grove of aloe trees in full blossom. 
Thence, a rugged and circuitous track of about one 
hundred miles in length constituted the road, the scen- 
ery comprising a mixture of barren, unprofitable 
vallies, ^nd stony, uninteresting hills, varied occasion- 
aMy by deserted farms, where depopulation had stay- 
ed the hand of the husbandman — and the blackened 
walls of roofless cottages which had been sacked 
by the Kafirs during their late irruption. 

Throughout this miserable country, which had 
been described to us as abounding with game of 
every description, our diligent researches were only 
once repaid by a glimpse, on the distant horizon, of 
three ostriches, and about a score of spring bucks 



Chap. II.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



9 



This event occurred at a place called Quaggas flat, 
where we halted a day, and were treated with hos- 
pitality by three English settlers, brothers named 
Pullen. Besides gin-shops, there are two inns on the 
road; the first at Sunday River, the second at Bush- 
man's Hill ; but at neither of these could we procure 
bread or forage, and the country not producing a sin- 
gle blade of grass, our cattle daily presented more 
finished specimens of anatomy. Old Pollard, the lo- 
quacious landlord of the last mentioned inn, endea- 
vored by his wit to supply the want of cheer, gravely 
assuring us that had we employed him we might have 
obtained horses, waggons, and oxen, at a tenth of the 
price. This worthy Boniface's daughter here joined 
our party, proceeding to Graham's Town on a matri- 
monial expedition, or in other words, to be present 
agreeably to colonial custom, when her marriage 
banns were proclaimed in church, 

Whilst descending a steep hill by night, one of the 
oxen contrived to strangle himself — a circumstance 
only remarkable from the great sensation produced 
by the Parsee's steady refusal to partake of the flesh. 
We often overheard our followers afterwards talking 
of the cow- worshipper, who was not allowed to eat 
beef.* It rained repeatedly and heavily during our 

* The well known objection on the part of the Parsees, 
or fire-worshippers of India, to eating beef, is believed to 
have arisen from a compact formed with the Hindoos on 
their first arrival. A respect for Mahomedan prejudices is 

2 



10 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. II. 



journey, the roads in an instant becoming so slippery 
that it was impossible to proceed a single step until 
the water had run off. At a place called Assegai 
Bush* the ground in the morning was white with hoar 
frost; and all the brooks were frozen over, a sight 
we had not witnessed for years. It was piercingly 
cold, and even at 7 A. M. the thermometer stood 
at 34° . When within a few miles of Graham's 
Town, which we reached on the seventh day, the 
baggage waggon was accidentally upset in a deep 
hole by the road side, and the upper works complete- 
ly broken, although little injury occurred to the 
contents, beyond the destruction of our chairs and 
crockery. 

Graham's Town is situated at the source of the 
Cowie River, at a distance of six hundred and fifty 
miles from Cape Town, and thirty from the nearest 
point of the Coast. It is well built, and contains 
nearly seven hundred houses, with about three 
thousand inhabitants, principally English. Here 
we made further purchases, and with difficulty ob- 
tained two additional horses, residing four days at 
Parke's excellent hotel. We also made a valuable 
friend in the person of Captain Stanford, of the 27th 
Foot, who introduced us to two intelligent men, Da- 
vid Hume and Robert Scoon, both of whom had 



understood to influence them equally against partaking of the 
unclean beast. 



Chap. II.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



11 



performed several journies into the interior, for the 
purpose of trading in ivory, and who afforded us 
much valuable information. Hume provided us with 
a new driver, a pensioned private of the Cape Rifle 
Corps, minus a right eye and a fore-finger, proud 
of his ancestry as a Hottentot, and glorying in the 
name of Andries Africander. This highly favored 
individual had already made no less than five trips 
with Hume and others :into Moselekatse's country, 
and besides being well acquainted with that Chief, 
possessed a fair smattering of the English and Sichu- 
ana languages. He was, moreover, according to his 
own account, a crack- shot, an intrepid elephant hunt- 
er, and a finished waggon driver ; thus professing to 
combine, beneath a mutilated and unprepossessing 
exterior, every qualification that could be required 
in a servant by men in our situation. Had but the 
virtues of this man kept pice with the accomplish- 
ments to which he laid claim, he would indeed have 
been a valuable acquisition: but unfortunately the 
result proved that he had not a single redeeming 
quality that we could discover. A coward, a muti* 
Deer, and a liar, it will be seen that Andries caused 
more mischief and trouble to us by his pernicious 
example and rebellious conduct when beyond the 
reach of the law, than can be well conceived by 
those who have never had the misfortune to be ex- 
posed to the machinations of so dangerous a ruffian. 



12 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. II. 



Wherever we were likely to obtain recruits to join 
our expedition, we hoisted our standard, in the hope 
and expectation that numbers would flock around it. 
But whilst some had married wives, and others had 
purchased farms, we saw too plainly written in the 
countenances of all, that they felt convinced of the 
impossibility of two poor Indian gentlemen, who had 
been only three weeks in the colony, achieving alone 
and unassisted amongst savage nations in South Af- 
rica, a long and perilous journey, which had never 
been undertaken except by a few persons whose ex- 
perience of the country might be traced back almost 
to their cradles, and even by them had been ac- 
complished with great difficulty and hazard. 



18 



CHAPTER III. 



JOURNEY FROM GRAHAM'S TOWN TO GRAAFF 
REINET. 

For the moderate remuneration of one hundred Rix 
dollars, equal to about seven pounds sterling, Mr. 
Pollard junior, the innkeeper's son, volunteered to 
accompany us with his waggon as far as Somer- 
set, a small town about half way to Graaff Reinet, 
where his maternal uncle resided ; but by dint of 
attending the market every morning, w r e contrived, 
on the £6th of the month, to obtain a return ve- 
hicle for one fourth of the sum. When w 7 e had 
proceeded about a mile, one of the lately purchased 
horses deserted, and I did not succeed in re-captur- 
ing him until he had re-entered Graham's Town. 
After travelling ten miles, our waggon having been 
carelessly driven by Andries, became entangled in a 
wiry unyielding bush, and could not be extricated with- 
out the assistance of hatchets. John Strydom, the fat 
good natured proprietor of the waggon that we had 
hired, took advantage of this delay to ride back upon 
a horse that he borrowed from us, in order to recover 
a cash receipt of some importance, which he fancied 



14 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. III. 



he had dropped, and returned about the middle of the 
night, having completely knocked up the steed. What 
added to our vexation was that he found the missing 
document in his waistcoat pocket. The leader of 
our team having stolen a horse during our sojourn at 
Graham's Town, had been incarcerated, and our diffi- 
culties had not been a little multiplied by the impossi- 
bility of finding a substitute. Fortunately , however, 
in the course of the second day's journey, a Hottentot, 
whom we found sunning himself by the way side, con- 
sented to enter our service in the vacant capacity. 

The country was still of the same barren, uninter- 
esting character as that already described, but gener- 
ally more level, less abundantly watered, and more 
thickly covered with brushwood and succulent dwarf 
trees, called by the Colonists speck-boom. We tra- 
velled at the rate of thirty miles a day, twice passing 
the night without water for the oxen— saw several 
small herds of spring bucks, of which beautiful little 
antelope I killed three — and arrived late on the even- 
ing of the 29th at the home-sick Strydom's cottage 
on Mynheer De Klerck's farm, where his doating 
young vrouw received him with overflowing eyes and 
open arms. On the journey we had picked up a dis- 
consolate wheelwright, whom we overtook plodding 
his weary w r ay along the road, with a green veil over 
his face, and a saddle, bridle, and bundle, on his head ; 
his horse having most unceremoniously abandoned 



Chap. III.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



15 



him under cover of the night, an event by no means 
uncommon in the annals of South African travelling, 
and one to which our dismounted equestrian was so 
well accustomed that he had lost no time in precarious 
search, but had set out forthwith in the pedestrian 
order I have described, well convinced that if his 
truant horse were no't already at home, he would 
shortly return thither. 

John Strydom having messed with us on the road, 
his good vrouiv insisted in return on entertaining us 
at supper. Mynheer De Klerck, and several of the 
members of his family, visited our host after the re- 
past was over, and were very slow in taking the hint 
conveyed by his violent yawnings, that he was anxious 
to retire to rest. We slept in the waggon as usual, 
and were amused during the greater part of the night 
by the drunken merriment and boisterous singing of 
a lame Irish cobler, who was " keeping it up" in a 
roofless mud outhouse, with two Hottentot " boys," 
neither of whom was under fifty years of age. The 
cobler apologized next morning for not inviting us 
to the wassail, on the score that we were gentlemen, 
adding that not being at the time altogether " com- 
pos mentis," he hoped we would excuse his apparent 
want of politeness. 

We halted one day, in order to enjoy the diversion of 
wild Guinea fowl shooting on De Klerck' s farm, where 
we found these birds in abundance ; and on the 31st, 



16 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. Ill, 



continued ova' journey about five miles, to Somerset, 
at which we hoped to obtain another waggon ; the 
uxorious John Strydom having been proof against 
the most tempting bribes offered to induce him to 
transport our baggage beyond it. The paltry little 
town of Somerset consists only of *about two dozen 
English houses, and stands in *a swamp at the western 
base of a mountainous range called the Zuur-berg, 
being completely environed on three sides by the Little 
Fish river, in attemping to cross which treacherous 
stream, my horse was suddenly engulphed in a quick 
sand, and nearly drowned before I could extricate 
him. 

My recollections of Somerset, a place through which 
I have twice passed, are, I confess, far from pleasing. 
After I had thrown off my wet garments, we prose- 
cuted our search for a vehicle, and literally visited in 
succession every house in the village, taking Jackson 
the Tinman first in order, to whom we had brought 
a strong letter of introduction from the crippled cob- 
ler, but who, nevertheless, received us with marked 
contumely, turning us from his door with dirt upon 
our beards, as our Persian friends in India would say. 
The proprietors of no less than nine out of the twenty- 
four mansions, were surnamed Smith, an appellation by 
no means less common in the Cape Colony than in 
other parts of the British dominions. But although all 
the Messrs. Smith had waggons, not one of them could 



Chap. HI.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



17 



be induced to accede to our request. One of the se- 
veral John Smiths, a straight haired methodistical 
little man, was sitting down to dinner with Mrs. 
Smith and the children, when we called to pay our 
respects, and, bowing to the ground ventured to seat 
ourselves on a vacant sofa; but though the young 
Smiths stared abundantly at us, neither the master 
nor mistress even condescended to look at us, the lady 
after a time informing us, whilst she shovelled down 
the pease and gravy with her knife, that she could not 
think of allowing her poor dear oxen to go another 
journey so immediately after their return from the 
country. 

In the course of our perambulations through the 
town, we stumbled upon a waggon discharging a 
cargo of oranges, which was to return the very next 
day to within a few miles of GraafF Reinet; yet 
strange to say, the bull headed proprietor after taking 
an hour to consider of our offer, preferred returning 
empty to receiving our freight and fifty Rix dollars. 
In the end, being utterly discomfited, we had no alter- 
native but to avail ourselves of an offer obligingly 
made by a Mr. Thomas Butler, to deposit our effects 
in his warehouse ; and having strictly enjoined him to 
forward them to us by the first opportunity, we cross- 
ed the Little Fish river a second time, and, shaking 

the dust from off our feet, departed from Somerset, 

3 



18 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. III. 



The following morning, according to arrangements 
previously made, Mr John Campbell, a kind and 
obliging friend whom we had met at Graham's town, 
and to whom we had been introduced by Colonel 
Tripp, overtook us, and shared one gipsey breakfast 
on his way to Graaff Reinet. The road over Bruint- 
jes Hoogte, comprises a succession of formidable ac- 
clivities and perilous descents, and we were frequently 
obliged to lock both hind wheels at the same time, the 
path skirting the very brink of yawning chasms seve- 
ral hundred feet in perpendicular depth, over some of 
which the clumsiness of Andries, more than once, 
nearly precipated us. 

It was pitch dark before we had cleared this 
mountain barrier, and the oxen being greatly in 
want of w T ater, I groped my way in advance, direct- 
ed by a light, to the dirty cottage of a neighbouring 
boer, and with some difficulty obtained unwilling 
permission from the* owner, who gloried in the vir- 
tuous appellation of Erasmus, to unyoke on his 
farm. Here a trial of temper awaited us, that im- 
measurably eclipsed all that we had been destined 
hitherto to experience. A strong disagreeable wind 
was blowing, which added to the impossibility of 
obtaining on the spot more than barely sufficient 
fire wood to boil the water in the kettle, caused every 
one to retire early to bed, and the oxen having li- 
terally tasted nothing since leaving De Klerck's, were 



Chap. III.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



19 



left at liberty to graze upon the farm during the 
night, instead of being secured as usual to the wheels 
of the waggon. On our awakening the next morning 
they were no where to be found, and the stony char- 
acter of the country, in every part clothed with a 
high thicket of speckboom, added to the violent wind 
that had blown during the night, and effaced the trail, 
rendered utterly fruitless our diligent search for them 
during the whole day. 

A combination of circumstances led us to suspect 
that Erasmus was concerned in the abstraction of 
our cattle, with the design of extorting a reward for 
their restitution . He had been seen lurking about 
the waggon with some of his associates the preceding 
evening, and now, far from rendering us any assist- 
ance towards their recovery, turned a deaf ear to our 
application, and studiously absented himself from the 
house. The sequel proved that our suspicions of his 
dishonesty were not unfounded. The promise of a 
reward induced him on the 3d August to return 
four of the oxen, but as these were insufficient to draw 
the waggon, w T e proposed that he should furnish us on 
hire with a team of his own. To this he at first 
consented, but altered his mind upon some frivolous 
pretext, even before the operation of yoking was com- 
pleted. Our own provisions, on which we entirely 
depended,, were by this time exhausted, and I consider- 
ed myself fortunate in killing two spring bucks, 



20 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. III. 



On the third day, the accidental and opportune ar- 
rival of a field cornet named Cornelius, a centurion 
having soldiers under him, gave a favourable turn to 
our affairs, at the very moment that I had resolved 
to ride on to Graaff Reinet for magisterial assistance. 
We stated our case to this worthy individual, who 
forthwith accompanied us to the nest of theives a- 
mongst whom we had fallen, and having threatened 
them with legal retribution, sent to our aid two of his 
own servants, who succeeded the following day in 
recovering the twelfth ox, the other seven having 
been in the mean time cunningly restored by Eras- 
mus, whose finished villany we could not help admir- 
ing, however much we had suffered by it. Leav- 
ing him to the tender mercies of the field cornet, 
who prohibited us from paying any reward, we 
pursued our journey on the morning of the 5th. 
Before dismissing Erasmus from these pages, I may 
add that on our way back through the colony, about 
twelve months afterwards, we were forced by heavy 
rain, I need scarcely say contrary to our wishes, 
again to halt at his farm. The hand of fate had fallen 
heavily upon him and his race; the house was desert- 
ed and its inmates extinct— a small group of graves 
before the door being all that remained instead of a 
numerous and well favoured family. 

As we advanced, the country became more open and 
practicable, and was covered with large herds of 



Chap. III.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



21 



elegant spring bucks, bounding playfully across the 
road. Whilst vainly pursuing some of these antelopes, 
a favorite dog belonging to my companion ruptured a 
blood vessel, and died shortly after. On the 6th we 
rode on at noon in advance of the waggon, but dark- 
ness overtaking us, we had great difficulty in finding 
our way. Crossing the Sunday river three several 
times we at length arrived at Graaflf Reinet, having 
ridden, six and thirty miles, and thus completed a total 
of two hundred miles from Graham's Town. 



22 



CHAPTER IV. 



GRAAFF RE I NET — AND FINAL PREPARATIONS FOR 
OUR JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR. 

1 he picturesque little Dutch village of Graaff Rei- 
net, with its adjoining gardens and fields, is near- 
ly surrounded by the Sunday river, which takes it 
source in the Sneuwbergen, a lofty range of moun- 
tains immediately to the North — and flowing through 
the districts of Camdeboo and Uitenhage, falls into 
the sea at Algoa bay. The village is sheltered 
on each side by high conical mountains decorated 
with perpetual verdure, which is derived from the 
abundance of speckboom that covers their rocky de- 
clivities. The serpentine banks of the river are lined 
with willows and acacias — many of these latter are 
overgrown with mistletoe, and both with evergreen 
creepers, which climbing to the very topmost branch- 
es fall gracefully in festoons adorned with a profusion 
of fragrant white flowers, not unfrequently concealing 
the tree upon which they have entwined themselves. 

The district of GraafF Reinet was formed in 1786 
under the administration of Governor Van-der Graaff, 
v^hose name it received with the adjunct of that of 



Chap. IV.] 



EXPEDITION INTO, &c. 



23 



his lady. Nothing can exceed the neatness of the 
quaint little Dutch houses; and whilst the salubrity of 
of the climate has no rival in Southern Africa, the 
produce of the gardens and vineyards may vie with 
those of Europe. Fruits and vegetables of all kinds 
grow here in abundance and perfection. I have be- 
fore said that we entered the village after dark; on 
looking out of the window in the morning, we saw 
the street carpeted with snow, while garden hedges 
of quince, and a row of lemon trees on either side, 
bending beneath a load of ripe fruit, formed decora- 
tions as beautiful in themselves as they were novel to 
an Indian eye. 

We considered GraafF Reinet to be the starting 
point or base of our operations. Our object now 
was to sweep rapidly over a great extent of country, 
in order to reach the most distant point that our time 
and the duration of our supplies, would permit us to 
visit. This method of proceeding not only greatly 
increased the probability of romantic peril, adventure, 
and discovery, but also enhanced our prospect of 
sport. We therefore resolved to reach Kuruman or 
New Litakoo, a missionary station of importance, 
four hundred miles to the northward, with all prac- 
ticable expedition, and to proceed thence to the 
country of Moselekatse, king of the Abaka Zooloos 
or Matabili, a powerful and despotic monarch, whose 
dominions were known to abound with game, and 



24 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. IV. 



possessed the additional advantage of having been little 
traversed by our countrymen. Arriving there, time 
and circumstances would enable us to form a further 
programme of our proceedings, but I determined at all 
events to extend my researches to the tropic of Capri- 
corn, and even if possible also to visit the Great Lake 
which is reported to exist considerably beyond it 
in the interior — fiinally forcing my way back to 
the colony by the hitherto unexplored route of the 
Likwa or Vaal river, which though the most direct, had 
hitherto in consequence of Moselekatse's interdiction, 
remained unexplored by Europeans, and which I in- 
tended to survey. I need scarcely say that at this 
time the result of Dr, Smith's recent enquiries had not 
been made public, and even while I now write, his 
work has not reached India. 

At the time of our arrival at Graaff Reinet, the 
rage for emigration beyond the boundary was rapid- 
ly spreading, and waggons being consequently at a 
high premium, we had no little difficulty in obtaining 
a second one for our journey. This will appear 
strange to thoso who know that in the Cape colony 
five out of every six tradesmen, are wheelwrights or 
waggon builders; but Gert Maritz, the principal wag- 
gon maker at Graalf Reinet, a wealthy and discontent- 
ed man, who, it will be seen, afterwards took a pro- 
minent part in the proceedings of his expatriated 
countrymen — being about to emigrate, had not only 



Chap. IV.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



25 



purchased as many as he could obtain, but was also 
busily engaged in manufacturing for himself. 

To our surprize, we found that the various wares 
we had obtained at Cape Town, and which we had 
unfortunately been obliged to relinquish at Somerset, 
could easily have been procured at Graaff Reinet. 
Unwilling however, to incur fresh expense, or to be 
delayed beyond the 1st September, the day we had 
fixed for our departure, we despatched a cart to Som- 
erset with instructions to Mr. Butler to forward the 
articles under his charge: and were not a little morti- 
fied to find that during our short absence they had 
been devoured, as he asserted, by the rats and other 
vermin, and were consequently not forthcoming, So 
that in the end we were not only saddled with the 
extra charge for the cart, but also obliged to make 
further disbursements for a fresh supply. 

The agent we employed here was Mr. John Bur- 
net Biddulph, a trader who had some years before 
visited Sobiqua, king of the Wangkets, and whose 
name in conjunction with that of Mr. Bain, will be 
found referred to in Arrowsmith's map of South Af- 
rica. Knowing exactly what we required, he suc- 
ceeded in obtaining for us from one Naude, a capital 
waggon with thirty draught oxen: and we had in the 
mean time completed our stud of horses to twelve of 
sorts and sizes, conceiving that these would suffice, 
though in this supposition we were greatly mistaken. 

4 



26 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. IV. 



Our waggon, fitted up with water casks, tar buck- 
ets, side chests, beds, pockets, and other appurte- 
nances for the long journey before us, during which it 
was to be our only abode, might now not inaptly be 
compared to a ship proceeding to sea. Besides our- 
selves and our personal conveniences, it contained 
with the addition of a barrel of gunpowder, and the 
commodities for barter already enumerated — six sacks 
of flour, two bags of rice, and two of sugar, with 
chests of tea and bales of coffee. The baggage 
waggon carried tent, camp stools, table, and cooking 
utensils: hams, tongues, and cheeses in profusion: salt 
and dried fish, biscuits, wax candles, soap, and oilmans 
stores, or in other words, sauces and pickles. The 
luxury of beer, so palatable to an Anglo Indian, we 
w r ere commpelled to dispense with in consequence of 
its bulk: but we provided ourselves instead with a few 
dozens of brandy, and a small barrel of inferior spirits 
for the use of the followers. Crevices and empty 
spaces were filled up with spades, pickaxes, hatchets, 
sickles, and joiner's tools, together with nails, screws, 
spare bolts,, and linchpins ; and as if all these were not 
weight sufficient, no less than eighteen thousand leaden 
bullets duly prepared — to say nothing of a large ad- 
ditional supply of that precious metal in pigs, to be 
converted into instruments of destruction as occasion 
required — were added to our stock. 

At GraafT Reinet we engaged six additional 



Chap. IV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



27 



Hottentots under a formal contract of service for six 
months, executed in presence of the Clerk of the Peace. 
As these were our only associates for many months, 
and will occasionally appear in prominent relief, I 
may be here excused consigning them to print, under 
the appellations of Piet-van-Roy, a man of mixed 
breed, Cobus Jacobus, John April, Glaas September, 
Frederick Dangler, and Ethaldur Wildman. Nearly 
all of these being tronk volh, or in other words dis- 
charged criminals, no agreement less binding than 
the one we had made, would have answered our pur- 
pose. But scarcely a day had elapsed, before we had 
reason to regret our part in the contract: for perpet- 
ual drunkenness and debauchery found their way into 
our peaceful family, and while our cattle were left to 
stray in the fields, their keepers were generally repos- 
ing in a happy state of oblivion by the road side. 
The result was that two of our oxen died, and most 
of the others lost their condition. The characters of 
these baboon faced gentlemen however, as they be- 
came gradually developed to their masters, will be 
sufficiently unfolded in the course of these pages. 

Before quitting Graaff Reinet, we obtained from 
Mr. Ryneveldt, His Majesty's Civil Commissioner, a 
further passport, claiming protection for us in the 
wards of the different field cornets on our route: to- 
gether with introductory letters to Captains Water- 
boer and Cornelius Kok, two Griqua chieftains in 



28 



EXPEDITION INTO, &c. [Chap. IV. 



alliance with the colonial Government. Without such 
an official authority, we could not have ventured to 
carry across the frontier so large a supply of ammuni- 
tion, the policy of Government rendering the tran- 
sit of gunpowder into the territories of the native 
princes, altogether contraband. 

Our party now amounted in all to eleven. As a 
body of men intended to resist a hostile tribe, this 
number was very insufficient ; but with due prudence 
and courage, we felt confident of repelling any preda- 
tory attack: and with the advantage of fire arms, of 
withstanding even a multitude of such opponents as 
those by whom we were likely to be assailed. 



29 



CHAPTER V. 



FROM GRAAFF REINET, BY THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS 
TO THE BORDERS OF THE COLONY. 

Every preparation for our final departure was com- 
pleted on the 1st September ; but that day so auspicious 
to sportsmen in Europe, " looked lowering upon us," 
—dawning with a tremendous deluge of rain, which 
continued until afternoon, and afforded the Hottentots 
more than sufficient leisure to indulge in their vicious 
propensities. In accordance with advice that we had 
received, but the futility of which we were not long 
in discovering, they had each been furnished with a 
musquet, as a defence against the wild beasts and 
savages; and it will be seen hereafter, that whilst their 
pusillanimity prevented their turning these weapons to 
our advantage, they employed them but too success- 
fully in scaring the game from our encampments. On 
the present occasion our astonishment may be con- 
ceived, when on preparing to start in the evening, one 
half of the musquets were found to be already in 
pawn, and the proceeds squandered in the gin shop c 
As a consequence, most of the Hottentots themselves, 



30 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. V. 



were discovered to be in such a brutal state of in- 
ebriety, that we were obliged — after various ineffec- 
tual attempts to rouse them, on our own part and that 
of their more sober brethren, who beat them without 
mercy — to transfer them like pigs into the waggons 
which they had been hired to drive. 

In this comfortable condition we commenced our 
march — but had scarcely passed the outskirts of the 
village when the rain descended in torrents, and left 
us no alternative but to return : in doing which, one of 
the less intoxicated Hottentots, civilly carried off the 
corner of a house, by propelling the heavily laden ve- 
hicle against it. Dreading further mishaps, and satis- 
fied that no dependence could be placed upon our 
followers, if once allowed to recover their sobriety 
and liberty, we finally quitted Graaff Reinet at six 
p. m. and by ten o'clock had formed our camp ten 
miles off. 

The morning's dawn did not find the Hottentots 
much gratified at their transportation into the desert, 
coupled as it was with the prospect of a long and te- 
dious separation from gin and bitters ; and to add to 
their distress, we insisted also that they should part 
from their vrouws or wives, before crossing the snowy 
mountains. As we ascended the acclivitous road 
leading over Sir Lowry Cole's pass into that range, 
the farewells were abundantly affecting. John April's 
interesting spouse in particular, a negress possessing 



[Chap. V. 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



31 



all the Hottentot peculiarities fully developed, clung 
round the neck of her " dear man" and half smo- 
thered him with kisses. 

Before we had proceeded many miles, we were met 
by a Hottentot riding post to GraafF Reinet for me- 
dical assistance: his master, a young Dutch boor, hav- 
ing been fearfully clawed in a clumsy attempt to de- 
stroy a leopard. Soon after, a courier overtook our 
cavalcade, having been hired at an expense of four 
Rix dollars, to gallop after us to recover a debt of five, 
which, in the hurry of departure we had neglected to 
settle — an ominous proof that the good people of 
GraafF Reinet had little expectation of seeing us again. 
Our friend Mr. Campbell, together with Mr. Lloyd 
His Majesty's Special Justice, and several other gen- 
tlemen, joined our party in the evening, and remained 
with us until the following day. 

As we advanced through the elevated region of 
Sneuwberg Proper, the vegetation became visibly more 
abundant, and the air sensibly colder. That great- 
est of all rarities in South Africa, a real turf or sod, 
was to be seen, interspersed with mat rushes. Around, 
nothing presented itself in the landscape but rocky 
mountains, of which the summits were enveloped in 
mist and snow: the unsettled state of the weather 
heightening in no small degree, the sublimity and 
frowning grandeur of the scene. Peak towering 
above peak, the lofty and broken mountains appeared 



32 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. V. 



to crowd in one upon the other — the Spitscop, a re- 
markable and pre-eminently lofty crag, soaring above 
the whole: whilst the rude and bold features of nature 
were for miles unmingled with any trace of human 
works, beyond the beaten track that we were following 
along steep acclivities. But for this, and an occa- 
sional wreath of smoke, ascending from the bosom of 
some sunken valley, no one could have supposed that 
the abode of man was to be found in a regioD, appar- 
ently so deserted and inhospitable. 

A chilly mist overtaking us, we resolved to halt for 
the night at a kraal* of Fingoes or tame Kafirs, 
where barely a sufficient quantity of fuel, from a 
shrub called the Rhinoceros bush, could be obtain- 
ed for culinary purposes. Although still within the 
Cape Colony, our tobacco here proved of use in the 
purchase of goats' milk; and I may here remar kthat 
this precious weed, w 7 hich may be denominated the 
current coin of the realm, is carried about in Afri- 
ca twisted in long thin ropes, which are coiled up 
in rolls. A roll is considered a splendid oblation to 
a prince — and an inch, a handsome present to a 

* Notwithstanding that it has been the habit to employ the 
terms Kraal, Caross, and Assegai, as respectively indicating a 
native village or cattlefold, a skin cloak, and a dart or spear 
— not one of them have any signification in the native lan- 
guages, but are supposed to be a corruption of Dutch and 
Hottentot, 



Chap. V.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



^# 33 



commoner; meted out by the span in traffic, it will 
purchase whatever this most benighted of countries 
can produce. 

The following day, after passing the residence of 
Piet Van-der Merwe, yclept Dickwang or double chin, 
— a soubriquet with which a large wen on the throat 
has saddled him, as a distinction from his neighbours 
of the same name — we cleared the Sneuwbergen, 
and arrived at a deserted farm, named Dassies fon- 
tein. Here we were struck with the sight of an old 
kafir smoking dacca, or the narcotic wild hemp, in 
which the natives greatly delight. Seated at the door 
of a miserable hovel, a squalid picture of poverty, 
the decrepit wretch was inhaling the pernicious drug- 
through water from a bullocks horn. Volumes of 
smoke were forced into his stomach by draughts of 
water, and the result was a violent fit of coughing, 
attended by raving delirium. We actually saw him 
throw off his slender apparel, and rush forth into the 
plain like a wild beast or a maniac from Bedlam. 

At noon on the 5th the thermometer stood at 32°, 
the snow falling in quantities during the w r hole of the 
day. We however travelled tw r enty-five miles, and 
reached Vogel valley, where the following morning, 
the whole of the brooks were frozen over with ice a 
quarter of an inch thick, and the manes of the horses, 
and the herbage around, were decorated with icicles. 
The glass at 7 a. m. had sunk to 18°, yet the cold to 

5 



34 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. V. 



the feeling was neither intense nor disagreeable. 
Here for the first time, we saw large troops of those 
eccentric animals the Gnoos, f three of which we kill- 
ed, having hemmed a herd into a valley, and obliged 
them to run the gauntlet. 

Of all quadrupeds, the Gnoo is probably the most 
awkward and grotesque. Nature doubtless formed 
him in one of her freaks, and it is scarcely possible 
to contemplate his ungainly figure without laughter. 
Wheeling and prancing in every direction, his shaggy 
and bearded head arched between his slender and 
muscular legs, and his long white tail streaming 
in the wind, this ever wary animal has at once a fero- 
cious and ludicrous appearance. Suddenly stopping, 
showing an imposing front, and tossing his head in 
mock defiance, bis wild red sinister eyes flash fire, and 
his snort resembling the roar of a lion, is repeated 
with energy and effect. Then lashing his sides with 
his floating tail, he plunges, bounds, kicks up his heels 
with a fantastic flourish, and in a moment is off at 
speed, making the dust fly behind him as he sweeps 
across the plain. 

On the 7th we reached Boks fontein, where, during 
the night, two of the horses absconded. Having been 
bred in the neighbouring district called New Hantam, 

f Catoblepas Gnoo. Delineation in Captain Harris's Afri- 
can views. Vide appendix. 



[Chap. V. SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



35 



to the grass of which cattle are much attached, it was 
surmised that they had strayed thither : and whilst 
Piet and Andries were despatched in pursuit of them 
we continued our journey to the Seven Fountains. 
Here the face of the country was literally white with 
spring bucks,* myriads of which covered the plains, 
affording us a welcome supply of food. When hunt- 
ed, these elegant creatures take extraordinary bounds, 
rising with curved backs high into the air, as if about 
to take flight : and they invariably clear a road or 
beaten track in this manner, as if their natural dis- 
position to regard man as an enemy, induced them to 
mistrust even the ground upon which he had trod. 

The trek bokken, as the occasional immigration 
to the abodes of civilization, of countless swarms of 
these antelopes, is called by the colonists, may be 
reckoned amongst the most extraordinary examples 
of the fecundity of animal life. To offer any esti- 
mate of their numbers would be impossible : pouring 
down like locusts from the endless plains of the inte- 
rior, whence they have been driven by protracted 
drought, lions have been seen stalking in the middle 
of their compressed phalanx, and flocks of sheep have 
not unfrequently been carried aw T ay with the torrent, 
Cultivated fields which in the evening appeared proud 
of their promising verdure, are in the course of a 

# Gazella Euchore. Delineated in the African views. 



36 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. V. 



single night, reaped level with the ground, and the 
despoiled grazier is constrained to seek pasture for 
his flocks elsewhere, until the bountiful thunder 
clouds restore vegetation to the burnt up country. 
Then the unwelcome visiters instinctively retreat to 
their secluded abodes, to renew their attacks when 
necessity shall again compel them. 

Two of our oxen having become exhausted, we 
presented them to Frederick Mark GraajQf, an iti- 
nerant pedagogue and masonic brother, whom we 
here met, and from whom in return we received a 
handsome and powerful dog. At Vendussie Kuilen, a 
waterless station, at which we encamped the next day, 
Piet returned, not only unsuccessful, but having com- 
pletely broken down, and so deeply galled the back 
of one of the best horses, that he was utterly use- 
less during the rest of the trip. Andries still remain- 
ed to carry on the search for those that had strayed. 

Three tedious marches through an arid level coun- 
try, quite denuded of herbage, and nearly destitute of 
water, brought us across an extensive tract impreg- 
nated with salt, to the residence of the frontier Field 
Commandant, whose domains are situated on the 
extreme border of the Colony, and are bounded by 
the Nu Gareep, (one of the two principal branches of 
the Great Orange river,) where we encamped to enjoy 
the luxury of bathing, and having our linen washed. 
This day, three more of our oxen dropped down on 



Chap. V.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



37 



the road, and being unable from fatigue and want 
of sustenance to advance another step, we had no 
alternative but to leave them a prey to the wild beasts. 
A forlorn traveller whom we overtook, might have 
shared the same fate had we not succoured him, for 
his horses agreeably to Colonial usage, had absconded, 
leaving him to pursue his journey on foot. 

We were at first rather coolly welcomed by ihe 
Field Commandant, to whom we presented the Gov- 
ernment letter. He received it with great respect, 
and putting on his spectacles, laboured hard to deci- 
pher its contents : but after halting at every word of 
more than two syllables — taking his leisure to com- 
prehend the meaning of each sentence — overrunning 
the stops, and making a pause to reconsider them — 
he consigned it to his wife, who, although scarcely a 
better scholar than himself, reported so favorably of 
its purport, that the worthy Warden of the Marches 
at once invited us to join his evening meal. In the 
course of conversation, we found that Mynheer, al- 
though ignorant of all languages except Dutch, 
claimed a Scottish extraction. His board was grac- 
ed by many sturdy scions of his stock, the younger 
of whom adhered to the primitive custom of stand- 
ing behind and attending on their parents and guests. 
Before supper commenced, a slave made a circuit of 
the room with a tub filled with water, offering it to us, 
and to the members of the family, who each, according 



88 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. V. 



to seniority washed their feet therein — a custom not 
very congenial to our tastes, and with which we de- 
clined to comply — considering that the same water 
served for all, and that the operation was followed by 
a general appropriation of the table cloth instead of 
a towel. After a long grace — repeated, or rather 
sung, with the most puritanical countenance and tone 
by one of the young men, who occupied an elevated 
position behind his fathers chair — the Field Com- 
mandant gave the order for the onslaught, and com- 
menced his revel with an earnest. A scene of con- 
glomeration and tobacco smoke ensued, from which 
we were unceremoniously dismissed at 9 o'clock, by 
an intimation from our landlord that he was about 
to proceed to bed. 

After great solicitation on the following day, the 
Commandant consented to dispose of one hundred 
of his wether sheep to us, but in the end did not sup- 
ply us with more than sixty. These we purchased 
from him at three Rix dollars per head, and being on 
the opposite side of the river, their transit across 
the stream gave us the greatest trouble and annoy- 
ance. No less than thirteen persons were engaged 
in the attempt to bring them over, but it was not un- 
til one of Mynheers son's had brought a large black 
goat, which headed the flock, and strange to say took 
the water like a Newfoundland dog, that we got them 
transported . On enquiry we found that the old 



Chap. V.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



39 



goat was a Palinurus frequently employed for the 
same purpose. I may here remark that although 
the merino sheep has been introduced, the Cape Colo- 
nists continue to be attached to the African breed, 
the large tails of which, composed of solid fat which 
literally trails on the ground, producing a luxury that 
is essential to the comfort and enjoyment of every 
South African settler. 



40 



CHAPTER VI. 



FROM THE BOUNDARY OF THE COLONY, ACROSS THE 
GREAT ORANGE RIVER TO KURUMAN. 

We had now fairly quitted civilization, and were 
entering upon a sterile inhospitable region sparingly 
inhabited by Bushmen — the remnant of Hottentot 
hordes, and the wild aborigines of the country — who, 
gradually receding before the encroachments of the 
European Colonists, have long since sought refuge in 
the pathless desert. Unblessed amongst the nations 
of the earth, the hand of these wandering out-casts 
is against every man, and every man's hand is against 
them. Existing precariously from day to day — heed- 
less of futurity, and forgetful of the past, — without 
either laws, arts, or religion — only a faint glimmer- 
ing ray of instinct guides their benighted path. De- 
pending for subsistence upon the produce of the 
chase or the spontaneous gifts of nature, they share 
the wilderness with beasts of prey, and are but one 
grade higher in the scale of existence. 

From this point until we reached Kuruman, a dis- 
tance of three hundred miles, the number of our 



Chap. VI.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



41 



oxen became daily diminished by the effects of a 
drought which had prevailed, and which had so com- 
pletely removed every vestige of vegetation, that they 
were frequently compelled to pass two days without 
tasting food or water. Extensive — to the eye bound- 
less, plains of arid land with neither eminence nor 
hollow, were on all sides expanded to the view : of 
these the prevailing color was brownish yellow, varie- 
gated with a few black and sickly shrubs. Scarcely 
an object met the straining eye but an ostrich some- 
times striding in the distance, or a solitary vulture 
soaring in the sky. Over the wide desolation of the 
stony waste not a tree could be discerned, and the 
only impression on the mind was— that of utter and 
hopeless sterility. Occasionally however as we ad- 
vanced, the sameness of the scene was varied by a 
wide stretching undulation. Our caravan was then 
the only object in the landscape upon which the eye 
could repose. Waggon after waggon slowly rising 
to view, the van was to be seen advancing over the 
swell, whilst the cattle and sheep were yet hidden 
from the sight. The world before us was still nought 
but earth and sky — not a green herb enticed the vi- 
sion, not a bird winged through the air : the loud 
cracking of a whip rolling in suppressed echo along 
the sun-baked ground alone disturbed the silence of 
the sultry atmosphere, which gave to the azure vault 

6 



42 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. VI, 



of heaven [the semblance of an unnatural elevation 
from the globe. 

Whilst the days were oppressively hot, and the sky 
unveiled by a cloud, the nights were piercingly cold — 
our feelings during the latter indicating as well as 
the thermometer, that the temperature was near the 
freezing point : and to add to our discomfort, fuel 
was rarely procurable. In the morning, the ground 
was sometimes covered with hoar frost : but the ab- 
sence either of vapour or cloud to diminish the heat 
of the sun, soon dispelled the appearance, and ren- 
dered visible the nakedness of the land. Mirage in 
these regions, flickering in the distance, presents to 
the thirsty traveller an illusion as tempting as tanta- 
lizing. Blue and delusive lakes of which the sur- 
face seems agitated by a ripple,, recede as he ad- 
vances — and ultimately disappearing, " leave not a 
wreck behind." 

But the monotony of this wearisome journey was 
not always unbroken by events. We halted the first 
day on the borders of what appeared to be a body 
of water many miles in circumference — an oasis in 
the desert, towards which after a sultry march of 
twenty miles, lured by the appearance of several 
waggons on its brink — both man and beast rushed 
with impetuosity. We soon perceived to our dis- 
appointment that we had been deceived by a saline 
deposit of immense extent at which a party of Boors 



Chap. VI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



43 



were engaged in obtaining salt for the use of the 
Colonists : but it was long ere the broken hearted 
oxen discovered that what they had understood to 
be water, was a mere mineral efflorescence in the 
desert. 

The fourth day brought us to the magnificent 
Orange river — the only stream within many hundred 
miles that is entitled to the appellation. Emerging 
from desolation and sterility the first glimpse that we 
obtained of it realized those ideas of elegant and 
classic scenery which exist in the minds of poets. 
The alluring fancies of a fairy fiction, or the fascina- 
ting imagery of a romance, were here brought into 
actual existence. The waters of this majestic river, 
three hundred yards in breadth, flowing in one un- 
broken expanse, resembled a smooth translucent lake ; 
and as its gentle waves glided past on their way to 
join the restless ocean., bearing on their limpid bosom 
as in a polished mirror, the image of their wood cloth- 
ed borders, they seemed to kiss the shore before bid- 
ding it farewell. Drooping willows clad in their 
vest of vernal freshness, leaned over the bank — and 
dipping their slender branches into the tide which 
glistened with the last rays of the setting sun — seemed 
fain to follow : whilst at intervals, the wrecks of 
stately trees that had been torn from their roots by 
the violence of the torrent during some vast inunda 
tion, of which the traces on the shore gave evidence— 



44 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VI. 



reared their dilapidated heads in token of the then 
resistless fury of that flood, which now appeared so 
smooth and tranquil. To those who may conceive 
this description overcharged I will only remark, 
that the sight of water after days in the desert,, is 
probably one of the most delightful sensations that 
a human being can experience. 

Our transit across the Orange river was highly 
amusing. In consequence of the depth of water, we 
were obliged to make an elevated platform within 
the waggons, on which to place our baggage. The 
double line of oxen stoutly stemming the current, the 
frantic gestures of the drivers, and the singular ap- 
pearance of the followers . now wading, now swim- 
ming, laden with the lighter baggage, and urging on 
the loose horses and sheep, altogether presented a pic- 
ture which I shall not readily forget. 

Before reaching Campbellsdorp, a missionary sta- 
tion, we observed a large party of Corrannas en- 
gaged in an attempt to run down an ostrich on foot— - 
a prodigy of speed which these people sometimes 
achieve. Their prevailing dress is a cloak and cap of 
leather, bedaubed, in common with their own skins, 
with an unguent of grease and red ochre ; but the 
exhortations of the missionaries have, in some instanc- 
es, caused this primitive garb to be supplanted by 
leathern jackets and trowsers of European fashion. 
At Campbellsdorp we were kindly received by Mr. 



Chap. VI.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



45 



Bartlet the missionary, but were disappointed at learn- 
ing that the Chief Waterboer was not at Griqua- 
staad. Captain Cornelius Kok was also absent, but 
his locum tenens being desirous of purchasing finery 
for his wife, obliged us with three fat oxen in return 
for a glaring stamped tablecloth, to which we added 
a pound of tea. Mr. Bartlet considered himself well 
repaid for a sturdy ox by a small canister of gunpow- 
der. 

When near Daniels kuil — a kraal of Griquas,, or 
Mulatto Hottentots, we met their Chief, Captain 
Dowd, whose mouth watered at the appearance of our 
waggons, and who requested particularly that we 
would not transact any business with his people until 
the morrow. This man is remarkable as being one of 
the only two Griquas who escaped the general massa- 
cre of their army by Moselekatse's warriors in 1831, 
the particulars of which we obtained from himself. 
From him also we received five fresh oxen, in lieu of 
our six lame ones and a cast off surtout coat of Rich> 
ardsons, which he immediately donned with great 
exultation. 

At Kramers Fontein next day, a horrible spectacle 
presented itself to us in the form of an emaciated old 
Bushwoman, who had come down from her kraal five 
miles distant, to fill two ostrich egg shells with water, 
i ' Grim misery had worn her to the bones/ ' and it is no 
exaggeration to say that her attenuated form appear- 



46 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. VI. 



ed a skeleton covered with a wet cloth. Those round- 
ed proportions which are given to the human form 
divine, had no existence in her. Her skin resembled 
wrinkled leather, and I can compare her legs and 
arms to nothing but straightened sticks, knobbed 
at the joints. Her body was actually crawling with 
vermin, with which she was constantly feeding a 
little half inanimate miniature of herself in arms. 

cc Withered and wild in her attire, 

She looked not like a habitant of earth, 
And yet was on it." 

We were glad to bribe her to depart by a present of 
tobacco, and the wretched creature's countenance 
evinced thankfulness at our liberality. 

The pigmy race of which this woman w r as a char- 
acteristic specimen, usually reside in holes and cran- 
nies of rocks, and sometimes in wretched huts in- 
capable of protecting them from the inclemency of 
the seasons. These,, their constant fear of discovery 
induces them to erect in secluded spots at a great dis- 
tance from water : a precaution to which they are fur- 
ther prompted by a desire to leave the pools open for 
wild animals, which they occasionally shoot from an 
ambush with poisoned arrows, and devour on the spot. 
They possess neither flock nor herds — are unac- 
quainted with agriculture — and the most wealthy can 
boast of no property beyond his weapons and his 
starving dog. With no cares beyond the present mo- 
ment, they live almost entirely upon bulbous roots, 



Chap. VI. J 



SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



47 



locusts, reptiles, and the larvae of ants, by the habita- 
tions of which latter the country is in many places 
thickly strewed. Not a trace of their hovels could 
be seen from the road, and a traveller might even 
pass through their country without seeing a human 
being, or suspecting that it was inhabited. Such is 
their general distrust of visiters, that the males would 
never willingly approach us, evincing great trepida- 
tion when forced to do so — no object being more un- 
welcome to their sight than a troop of horsemen on 
the plain. 

The stature of both sexes is invariably below five 
feet. The males are usually meagre, bow-legged, and 
ill made : yet they display a singular ease of motion 
and flexibility of joint. The rapidity with which they 
drive off a herd of cattle is perfectly astonishing. 
Their complexion is sallow brown, darkened by dirt 
and grease : their only dress a piece of leather round 
the waist, and their sole defence a diminutive bow, 
with poisoned arrows, rather resembling childrens' 
toys than mortal weapons. 

The women, who were much less shy, and who nev- 
er failed to follow the tracks of our waggons when 
they happened to come upon them, with the hope of 
obtaining tobacco in exchange for ostrich eggs, are 
of small and delicate proportions, with hands and feet 
of truly Lilliputian dimensions. Their foot prints 
reminded us of Gullivers adventures, and are not 



48 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VI. 



larger than those of a child. When young they have 
a pleasing expression of countenance, which they 
take care to render as captivating as possible by be- 
daubing their flat noses and prominent cheek bones 
with a mixture of red ochre and fat. The toilets of 
many were made with scrupulous attention, the ef- 
fect of the paint being enhanced by necklaces com- 
posed of the fresh entrails of wild beasts — a few cow- 
ry shells, old bones and buttons, being also interwov- 
en with their matted hair; but the life they lead, their 
frequent long abstinence, and constant exposure to 
the wind and glare of light in a dry open country, 
soon inducing the habit of keeping their naturally 
small eyes more than half closed, their comeliness is 
very ephemeral, and never extends beyond youth. 
The females possess much greater volubility and ani- 
mation of gesture than the men — but the sounds 
they utter are a succession of claps of the tongue 
produced by forcing that unruly member against dif- 
ferent parts of the teeth and palate : and whilst the 
enunciation is thus rendered troublesome and full of 
impediment, it resembles rather the chattering of 
monkeys than the language of human beings. 

At Koning on the 25th, we had the unexpected 
pleasure of meeting Captain Sutton of the 75th Foot, 
— a mighty Nimrod, and a man after my own heart — 
who was returning to the Colony from a successful 
expedition against the Elephants. Together with a 



Chap. VI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



49 



seasonable addition to our stud, and soul stirring ac- 
counts of what he had seen , we obtained from this 
gentleman the first unwelcome intelligence that Mo- 
selekatse was embroiled with the emigrant Farmers. 

The following day we entered Kuruman or New 
Litakoo, a lovely spot in the waste by which it is 
completely environed. Here we received a very cor- 
dial welcome from a missionary of the London Socie- 
ty — the Rev. Mr. Moffat — whose children amongst 
others we had visited in Cape Town. To this ex- 
cellent Clergyman, who together with his amiable 
lady, has devoted his life to the cause of Christianity, 
we were indebted during our stay at Kuruman, for 
hospitality and kindness which we shall never be en- 
abled to repay. 

7 



50 



CHAPTER VII. 



FROM KURUMAN TO LITTLE CHOOI. 

Twenty days had now elapsed without any ti- 
dings of Andries, when at last that worthy follower of 
our fortunes was seen approaching in equestrian order. 
Whilst however, he had undoubtedly brought back the 
horses, he had contrived to render them unserviceable 
for some weeks by galling their backs : and had be- 
sides sacrificed the mare upon which he had set forth 
on his quest. Had the accounts that he gave of the 
privations he suffered on the road, and of his per- 
sonal combats will surly Boors, who had opposed 
themselves to the fulfilment of his mission, been cor- 
rect, his claims to our everlasting gratitude might 
have been acknowledged; but, unfortunately for 
him, we subsequently discovered that they had no 
foundation in truth; and on the contrary, that hav- 
ing speedily recovered the fugitives, he had embraced 
the opportunity of surreptitiously paying a visit to 
his mother, and some of his cronies who resided at a 
distance. 

Mr. Moffat confirmed the reports that we had 
heard from Captain Sutton respecting the attacks 



Chap. VII. J EXPEDITION, &c. 



51 



made upon the emigrant Farmers by Moselekatse, 
of whose history it will be expected that I should 
here offer a brief outline. He is the despotic ruler 
of a powerful tribe called Abaka Zooloo, or Matabi- 
li. His father was a chieftain whose territories lay 
at some distance to the North eastward of Natal, but 
being attacked and totally defeated by a neighbour- 
ing tribe, he took refuge with Chaka, the Zooloo 
tyrant, (predecessor of Dingaan,) with whom he re- 
mained till his death in a servile state, resembling 
that of the Fingoes amongst the Kafirs. Moselekatse, 
however, succeeded in gaining the favor and confidence 
of Chaka, and in process of time was intrusted with 
the command of an important military post, and the 
charge of a large number of cattle. Seizing his 
opportunity he revolted, and fled with his people and 
the booty towards the North west, eating up in his 
progress the several tribes which then occupied that 
country, and soon becoming so exceedingly formid- 
able that his very name inspired terror through a 
vast region. Having completely subjugated or de- 
stroyed every tribe from whose opposition he had any 
thing to dread, he ultimately selected the country 
near the sources of the Molopo and Moriqua rivers 
for his permanent residence, where he now reigns, 
the terror of the surrounding nations. 

Bidding adieu to the worthy missionary, we re- 
sumed our journey on the 29th of September, towards 



52 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VII. 



Mosega, the capital of Moselekatse, distant about two 
hundred miles in a North easterly direction. As we 
were now entering upon a country hitherto little ex- 
plored, and as far as I know, only partially described 
by Mr. Campbell on his journey towards Kurre- 
chaine, I shall be excused being a little more minute 
in my descriptions. 

The road from Kuruman to our intended halting 
ground was so circuitous that we despatched the 
waggons in advance, and rejoined them by a more 
direct route accompanied by Andries, who, after 
all his achievements, was not a little mortified at 
perceiving that the sorriest horse of all had been 
reserved for him. Naturally of an unassuming dis- 
position, he humbly conceived himself entitled to the 
best : and thus disappointed, unhesitatingly declared 
his inability to shew the way, which nevertheless to 
his disgust we contrived to find for ourselves. The 
presentation of an old waistcoat in the evening howe- 
ver, had the effect of soothing his feelings. 

The next morning, a messenger arrived with let- 
ters for us from Mr. Moffat to the missionaries at 
Motito and Mosega. A Bechuana gentleman of 
quality to whom we had been introduced at Kuruman, 
came at the same time with his two daughters, hav- 
ing conceived a desire to join our mess as far as 
Motito. We had received a bad character of this 
personage, but as far as our experience of him went, 



Chap. VII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



53 



he was very orderly, and afforded a fund of enter- 
tainment by his ridiculous attempts to colloquise in 
Dutch. His skin was blacker than a boot, and in 
texture resembled a Rhinoceros hide : yet he studi- 
ously interposed a parasol composed of ostrich plumes, 
betwixt the sun and his nobility, leaving his little 
daughters to bestride a pack bullock, and their com- 
plexions to take care of themselves. 

Our march was a very hot one, over measureless 
plains, bounded only by the distant horizon : the 
fading blue summits of the Kamhanni mountains near 
the Kuruman, only slightly breaking the evenness of 
the line from which we were receding. The soil 
consisted chiefly of red sand, abounding at intervals 
with long coarse grass, which being dry,, gave to the 
plains the delusive appearance of ripe corn-fields. 
Fourteen miles brought us to the Matluarin — a perio- 
dical river, with a few detached pools of hardly 
drinkable water — where bulrushes, and a scanty turf, 
afforded barely sufficient pasture for the oxen. 

We had hitherto failed in our endeavors to obtain 
an interpreter to accompany us — the only available 
person in that capacity being a Bechuana residing at 
MotitOj against whom we had been particularly warn- 
ed by Captain Sutton as a mischief-maker; but in 
default of a better, we had resolved by the advice of 
Mr. Moffat to entertain this man. It unfortunately 
so happened however, that he passed through our 



54 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VII 



camp during the night on his way to Litakoo (whi- 
ther he had been despatched by Mahura, chief of that 
place) a circumstance which the Hottentots care- 
fully concealed, from motives of their own, until he 
was far distant. 

The weather was piercingly cold when we resum- 
ed our journey in the morning. Our people had 
for once taken the precaution of filling the casks, 
and we were thus enabled to obtain breakfast al- 
though we came to no water. About noon we also 
halted for half an hour at a muddy pool, which the 
cattle drained to the dregs, whilst a sheep was being 
slaughtered to satisfy the cravings of our guest's 
stomach, to the empty state of which he had repeat- 
edly by drawn our attention. 

During the early part of the day our road continued 
across a boundless ocean like expanse, the surface 
being broken only by ant hills, or occasional dwarf 
bushes, amongst which troops of ostriches were graz- 
ing. Proceeding, we passed through many exten- 
sive areas of waving grass, and the country gradu- 
ally became decorated with larger shrubs, bearing 
a profusion of yellow flowers. Occasionally too, 
straggling clumps of mimosas, from ten to fifteen 
feet in height, afforded a pleasing relief. The day was 
intolerably hot, dusty, and disagreeable : we saw 
Motito indistinctly in the distant glare some hours 
before we reached it. This we did about sunset, 



Chap. VII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



55 



having travelled altogether twenty-two miles. We 
were immediately welcomed by Mr. Lemue, the 
French Missionary, who, with his agreeable wife, 
evinced bygreat attention and kindness to us, the gra- 
tification they experienced from the arrival of two 
civilized strangers in the desert, in which from motives 
of the highest nature, they have immured themselves. 
The elder of this interesting young couple did not 
appear to be more than twenty-two years of age. 

I have not hitherto referred to the dress and appear- 
ance of the Bechuana tribes, of which the remnants 
have been collected by the Missionaries. Of the 
habiliments of the men little need be said, as they 
have generally adopted a rude imitation of the Euro- 
pean costume. The females however, almost inva- 
riably retain the garb of their ancestors. The ap- 
pearance of these ladies is masculine, and far from 
attractive. Fat and grease of all kinds form their 
delight : their bodies and skin cloaks being also plen- 
tifully anointed with sibilo, a grey iron ore sparkling- 
like mica, procured from mines in the neighbourhood, 
which are visited from from all parts of the country. 
Their naturally woolly hair is twisted into small cords, 
and matted with this substance into apparently me- 
tallic pendules, which being of equal length, assume 
the appearance of a skull cap or inverted bowl of 
steel. Tobacco having undergone considerable de- 
preciation by the introduction of the plant — beads 



56 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. VIL 



are the medium through which exchanges are usually 
effected amongst the Bechuana. The more wealthy 
of their women are adorned with a profusion of these, 
hung in cumbrous coils round the waist and neck, 
along with ivory tooth-picks and gourd snuff-boxes : 
but even the indigent are not altogether without them. 
An apron of leather, cut into thin strips and clotted 
with an accumulation of grease and filth, reaches to 
the ancles — and with a rude skin cloak, completes 
the costume. 

We were subjected to continual interruptions from 
the visits and curiosity of crowds of these ladies, 
who appeared to have no domestic concerns to attend 
to : and, although the assertion may subject me to 
the accusation of want of gallantry, I am compelled 
to state that the effluvia arising from their persons, 
which are not always free from vermin, was far from 
agreeable. Their language, termed Sichuana, is ex- 
ceedingly melodious. Few syllables end with a con- 
sonant, and the remarkable abundance of vowels and 
liquids give it a smoothness of sound to which both 
sexes do ample justice by the gentle tones of their 
voice. 

Early the following day our waggons were sur- 
rounded by natives with skins and carosses * for 
sale. Foremost in the motley group was Manura, 

* Vide note at Chapter V. 



Chap. VH.J SOUTHERN AFRICA. 57 

the Batlapi Chief— brother of Motibe, King of that 
tribe— a portly personage of exceedingly forbidding 
manners, and unprepossing exterior. He was habit- 
ed in a thread bare braided jacket and leathern trow- 
sers, with a broad brimmed white hat which obscured 
a large portion of his sinister physiognomy. His A. 
D. C— another prominent figure, had inducted his 
shrivelled frame into a green surtout and military 
chaco, being withal the least martial character I 
ever beheld. We made them propitiatory offerings, 
and handed round the snuff box : but far from meet- 
ing our advances, they seemed disposed to quarrel, 
more especially when they discovered that we knew 
exactly how many yards of brass wire were esteem- 
ed an equivalent for a caross. At length, finding it 
impossible to come to terms, we closed our little shop,, 
and were preparing to depart— when on a sign made 
by Mahura, a tall gaunt savage pounced upon a 
drinking cup, and declared his intention of retaining 
it in compensation for alleged injury to the fence of 
his field. Deaf to our remonstrances^ he was mov- 
ing off with his prize, when Richardson seized it from 
him, and threw it to the right owner. In the mean 
time another obtrusive savage deliberately seated 
himself on the pole of the waggon, from which he 
refused to move, although civilly requested to make 
way for the oxen. In this posture of affairs I found 
it necessary to resort to personal violence, which so 

8 



58 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VII. 



exasperated him that he sprung at me, brandishing 
his weapons, and exclaiming that I had kicked him 
on his own premises. The clamour now became fast 
and furious, and the threatening attitudes of our as- 
sailants obliged us to protrude the muzzles of two or 
three fowling pieces from the waggons, so as to bear 
upon their masses — when they instantly dispersed, 
leaving us to pursue our journey. 

Mahura and Moselekatse are bitter foes. Shortly 
after Dr. Smith's expedition arrived at Kuruman, the 
former, who had carried off several head of cattle 
from the Matabili, expressed his determination of op- 
posing the Doctor's advance — a threat which he did 
not however carry into execution. From that period, 
until within a few days of our arrival at Motito, this 
boaster, dreading the vengeance of Moselekatse, had 
ignominiously concealed himself — now, for the first 
time, venturing from his hiding place. Before we had 
proceeded many miles, a savage, breathless with haste, 
met us as if by accident, and implored the waggon 
drivers to turn back — representing Moselekatse as 
highly incensed — and stating that that Prince had at- 
tacked a party of Farmers with great slaughter, 
and that the same fate awaited us if we advanc- 
ed farther into his territory. He then decamped, 
leaving every face blank with dismay. We in- 
stantly suspected that the whole was a plot of Ma- 
bura's, and it had the effect he desired of creating. 



Chap. VII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



59 



such a panic among the people, that they positively 
refused to advance another step. Andries was the 
first to declare this determination, repeating the sa- 
vage's story with fifty exaggerations of his own, and 
confidently predicting an attack during the night. 
The spirits of the bolder were damped by the gloomy 
forebodings of the more cowardly, nor would they 
have proceeded if John April had not fortunately, 
though unwarrantably, presumed to broach the grog 
cask during the night : getting so drunk himself, that 
we were obliged to leave him to come on behind, 
whilst the rest became sufficiently courageous to re- 
sume the journey in the dark — not however, until they 
had broken the pole of the waggon, which we soon 
replaced. 

As the morning's dawn slowly withdrew the curtain 
from the landscape, we perceived the aspect of the 
country completely changed. Instead of the dreary 
waste over which we had lately passed, we might now 
imagine ourselves in an extensive park. A lawn, level 
as a billiard table, was everywhere spread with a soft 
carpet of luxuriant green grass, spangled with flowers, 
and shaded by spreading mokaalas — a large species of 
acacia which forms the favorite food of the Giraffe. 
The gaudy yellow blossoms with which these remark- 
able trees were covered^ yielded an aromatic and 
overpowering perfume — while small troops of Striped 
Quaggas or wild asses, and of Brindled Gnoos, which 



60 



EXPEDITION &c. [Chap. VII. 



were for the first time to be seen through the forest, 
enlivened the scene. After travelling four hours we 
reached Little Chooi, an extensive salt lake, sur- 
rounded by troops of ostriches and spring bucks, at- 
tracted thither by the luxuriant, yet crisp and sour 
grass, which our cattle refused to eat — and by a 
small pond of intolerably alkaline water, which we 
found it impossible to purify. 

Several armed natives of the Barolong and Batla- 
roo tribes, branches of the Bechuana, visited us for 
the purpose of begging muchuco or tobacco, causing 
great consternation by their approach. Poor Richard 
in particular, who till yesterday had considered him- 
self a perfect Bayard, " sans peur et sans reproche," 
had been rapidly sinking since the affair of the flying 
savage, and now felt convinced that the threatened 
attack was at hand. Enveloped in a great coat, with 
a red night cap on his raven pate, he sat on the box 
of the baggage waggon looking the very picture of 
despair — and as he thought of his wife and helpless 
family with the improbability of his ever seeing them 
again, his feelings quite overpowered him and he wept 
aloud. Never was the heart of a hen partridge con- 
cealed beneath so bushy and so black a beard. We 
dubbed him Cceur de Lion, and he bore the surname 
ever afterwards. 



61 



CHAPTER VIII. 



FROM LITTLE CHOOI, TO THE MERTTSANE RIVER. 

The true Zebra * is exclusively confined to moun- 
tainous regions from which it rarely if ever descends : 
but the extensive plains of Southern Africa abound with 
two distinct species of the same genus, the Quagga, f 
and the Striped Quagga or Burchells Zebra.J These 
differ little from each other in point of shape or size, 
both having the tail and ears of the horse, whilst the 
Zebra has those of the ass. Of a pale red colour, the 
Quagga is faintly striped only on the head and 
neck — but Burchells Zebra is adorned over every 
part of the body with broad black bands, which beau- 
tifully contrast with a pale yellow ground. The 
Gnoo and the Quagga delighting in the same situa- 
tions, not unfrequently herd together — but I have sel- 
dom seen Burchells Zebra unaccompanied by troops of 
the Brindled Gnoo, § — an animal differing materially 
from its brother of the same genus, from which, though 
scarcely less ungainly, it is readily distinguishable 

* JEquus Zebra \ 

I Efuus Bur&i [ delineated in the African views. 
§ Catobkpas Gorgon' ) 



62 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VIII. 

at a great distance by its black mane and tail, more 
elevated withers, and clumsier action. 

We were preparing to leave Chooi, when a party of 
Griquas arrived with three waggons. They had been 
hunting Giraffes on the Molopo, and having expended 
their ammunition, were returning to Daniel's Kuil with 
the spoils. Their horses and oxen were perfect skele- 
tons, and their waggons literally tumbling to pieces. 
Tireless wheels were lashed together with strips of 
raw hide, and festoons of sun dried meat, termed Bil- 
tong, occupied the place of the awning : whilst a number 
of filthy women and children were stowed away with 
an odoriferous melange of garbage and fat. These 
people had approached to the western limit of Mosele- 
katse's territory without molestation — a circumstance 
which seemed to inspire our timid followers with con- 
fidence. Large parties are annually formed for the 
purpose of hunting the Cameleopard and Eland — the 
flesh of these animals being held in great estimation, 
and the skins applied to the manufacture of shoes and 
a variety of uses. We would gladly have pur- 
chased some of the miserable horses, but the owners 
declined receiving any thing in exchange but gunpow- 
der, which we could not have given without incur- 
ring the risk of twelve months imprisonment on our 
return to the Colony. 

After crossing the Saltpan, we passed a long line of 
pitfalls used for entrapping game. Upwards of sixty 



Chap. VIIL] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



63 



of these were dug close together in a treble line: a high 
thorn fence extending in the form of a crescent a mile 
on either side, in such a manner that Gnoos, Quaggas, 
and other animals might easily he driven into them. 
They are carefully concealed with grass, and their 
circumscribed dimensions render escape almost impos- 
sible. Heaps of whitened bones bore ample testi- 
mony to the destruction they had occasioned. 

We now entered upon the Chooi desert, an extensive 
flat, denuded of trees, but occasionally broken by low 
ridges. After travelling twenty miles, across this 
" region of emptiness," we reached Loharon, at which 
there was a prospect of obtaining water, but unfor- 
tunately the only tank in the country was exhausted. 
The small supply that we had brought in the wag- 
gons was barely drinkable even in coffee: but our 
sufferings were nothing compared with those of the 
unhappy oxen, which although tired to death with 
the sultry march, ran franticly in quest of some pool 
where they might slake their thirst — making the air 
resound with their mournful lo wings. During the 
night the Hyaenas, attracted by the smell of our mut- 
ton, actually devoured a spring buck within the limits 
of our camp. 

As we advanced, the game became hourly more 
abundant although still exceedingly wild. Groups 
of Hartebeests*, Quaggas, and Brindled Gnoos, were 



* Jlcronotm Caama, Delineated in the African views. 



64 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. VIII. 



every where to be seen. A short chase was sufficient 
to seal the fate of three Quaggas — all males averaging 
thirteen hands high. During the run I had not seen 
a human being, and fancied myself alone : but I had 
scarcely dismounted to secure my game, when a wool- 
ly head protruded itself from every bush, and in an 
instant I was surrounded by thirty Barolongs, who 
having by signs expressed their approbation of my 
performance, proceeded to devour the carcase with 
the greatest avidity — greedily drinking the blood, rub- 
bing the fat upon their bodies, and not leaving so much 
even as the entrails for the birds of prey. 

Our unfortunate cattle had now tasted no water for 
six and thirty hours, and we resolved to travel day and 
night in search of this necessary of life. The sun at 
length departed, darkness overtook us, and no moon 
succeeded to guide our course: when by a singular 
instinct, the two horses that we had obtained from 
Captain Sutton, and which were consequently ac- 
quainted with the road — suddenly separated themselves 
from us, and galloped off. Following them up, the 
screaming of water fowl sounded like music in our 
ears, and we had the gratification of perceiving a pond 
of mephitic water a little to the right of the road. 
Both man and beast appeared simultaneously apprised 
of the cheering discovery— water was the universal 
cry — the Hottentots rushed to the edge of the pond, 
and throwing themselves on their faces, swallowed 



Chap. VIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



65 



large quantities — indifferent to the crowd of horses, 
oxen, and sheep, which followed close upon their 
heels. The oxen in the waggons were with difficul- 
ty restrained until the yokes had been removed, when 
impatient of their burning thirst, they also rushed 
headlong into the now muddy pool. 

An accident deprived us of the handsome dog that 
we had obtained from Brother Mark Graaff, the iti- 
nerant tutor : no bush presenting itself, which could 
shelter him for a moment during the long march, from 
the scorching rays of a vertical sun, he had sought an 
asylum beneath the waggon, the wheel of which pass- 
ed over his body. 

In order to recruit the exhausted strength of the 
oxen, we halted a day at Great Chooi, another 
extensive salt lake, which we reached early the 
following morning. No pen can describe the scene 
that here took place. The Hottentots, having first 
mutinied against Richardson, deputed Andries — who, 
advanced to me with a step of defiance— to acquaint 
me with their determination not to obey his orders : 
the contracts having, to save trouble, been made 
in my name only. The discussion having been 
suppressed by me, led to a disagreement amongst 
themselves ; they fought with inconceivable fury for 
half an hour, and were with difficulty prevented from 
murdering each other. With blood streaming from 
many a ghastly wound, they at length retired 

9 



66 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VIII. 



to ablute themselves, and returned better friends 
than ever. The engagement had been witnessed 
by a party of savages, who carried umbrellas of ostrich 
feathers, twisted round a long stick so as to resem- 
ble the nodding plumes of a hearse. In honour of 
their own courageous bearing, the Hottentots pur- 
chased a number of these for a small piece of tobac- 
co, and binding them round their hats, strutted forth 
Knights of the sable plume. 

The scattered inhabitants of this part of the country 
are the remnants of various Bechuana tribes, whichhave 
been conquered by Moselekatse — and consist princi- 
pally of theBarolong, Wangkets, Batlapi, and Baha- 
rootzi. These poor wretches live in small communi- 
ties, and being destitute of cattle, depend entirely for 
subsistence on locusts, or such game as chance may 
direct to their pitfalls. Crowds of them attracted by 
prey, now hovered around me in my hunting expedi- 
tions, which were here particularly successful; and 
having obtained a supply of meat, with the luxuries 
of snuff and tobacco, for which they were constantly 
begging, under the denominations of lishuena and 
mtichuko, they composed themselves to sleep, appear- 
ing to be in the enjoyment of as much happiness as man 
in a state of mere animal existence probably ever 
attains. Our little band was also instinctively attend- 
ed by a host of hungry vultures, who, little disturbed 
by the presence of man, divided the office of carrion 



Chap. VIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



67 



scavengers with hyaenas and jackals. Wheeling in 
circles high above our heads, like small specks in the 
firmament, these voracious birds were ever ready to 
pounce upon game that might be shot, or upon the 
carcases of oxen that perished on the road — devour- 
ing the largest bodies with a promptitude truly sur- 
prising. 

We had now crossed the unvaried level expanse 
of the Chooi desert, and were entering upon a country, 
which, though equally remarkable for its sameness of 
appearance, presented a different character. Immense 
sandy flats with a substratum of lime, were uniformly 
covered with Mokaala trees, low thorn bushes, and 
long grass, interspersed with numerous dry tanks: but 
no hill or conspicuous object that could direct the foot- 
steps of a wanderer. Before reaching the Siklagole 
river, twenty-two miles, we passed many extensive 
villages totally deserted: rude earthen vessels, frag- 
ments of ostrich egg-shells, and portions of the skins 
of wild animals, however, proving that they had been 
recently inhabited. During the whole of this and the 
following day we saw no human being, a circumstance 
which I note here, because it added in no small degree 
to the troubles I am about to detail. 

On the morning of the 9th October, when the wag- 
gons had started on their way to the Meritsane river ? 
our next stage, I turned off the road in pursuit of a 
troop of Brindled Gnoos, and presently came upon 



68 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VIII. 



another, which was joined by a third still larger — then 
by a vast herd of Zebras, and again by more Gnoos, 
with Sassaybys * and Hartebeests, pouring down from 
every quarter, until the landscape literally presented 
the appearance of a moving mass of game. Their 
incredible numbers so impeded their progress, that I 
had no difficulty in closing with them, dismounting 
as opportunity offered, firing both barrels of my rifle 
into the retreating phalanx, and leaving the ground 
strewed with the slain. Still unsatisfied, I could not re- 
sist the temptation of mixing with the fugitives, load- 
ing and firing, until my jaded horse suddenly exhibited 
symptoms of distress, and shortly afterwards was 
unable to move. At this moment I discovered that 
I had dropped my pocket compass, and being unwil- 
ling to lose so valuable an ally, I turned loose my steed 
to graze, and retraced my steps several miles without 
success: the prints of my horse's hoofs being at length 
lost in those of the countless herds which had crossed 
the plain. Completely absorbed in the chase, I had 
retained but an imperfect idea of my locality, but 
returning to my horse, I led him in what I believed 
to be a North-easterly direction, knowing from a 
sketch of the country which had been given me by 
our excellent friend Mr. Moffat, and which, together 
with drawing materials I carried about me, that that 

# Jlcronolus Lunata. Delineated in the African views, 



Chap. VIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



69 



course would eventually bring me to the Meritsane. 
After dragging my weary horse nearly the whole 
of the day under a burning sun, my flagging spirits 
were at length revived by the appearance of several 
villages. Under other circumstances, I should have 
avoided intercourse with their inhospitable inmates, 
but dying with thirst, I eagerly entered each in suc- 
cession, and to my inexpressible disappointment, found 
them deserted. The same evidence existing of their 
having been recently inhabited, I shot a Hartebeest, 
in the hope that the smell of meat would as usual 
attract some straggler to the spot. But no. The 
keen-sighted vultures, that were my only attendants, 
descended in multitudes, but no woolly headed negro 
appeared to dispute the prey. In many of the trees 
I observed large thatched houses resembling hay 
stacks; and under the impression that these had 
been erected in so singular a position by the natives 
as a measure of security against the Lions, whose 
recent tracks I distinguished in every direction, I 
ascended more than one in the hope of at least find- 
ing some vessel containing water. Alas, they prov- 
ed to be the habitations of large communities of So- 
cial Grosbeaks, * those winged republicans of whose 
architecture and magnificent edifices, I had till now, 
entertained a very inadequate conception. Faint 

* Loxia Soda. Delineated in the African views, 



70 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. VIII. 



and bewildered, my prospects began to brighten 
as the shadows of evening lengthened. Large 
troops of Ostriches running in one direction, plainly 
indicated that I was approaching water: and immedi- 
ately afterwards, I struck into a path impressed with 
the foot-marks of women and children — soon arriving 
at a nearly dry river, which, running East and West, 
I at once concluded to be that of which I was in 
search. 

Those only who have suffered as I did during this 
day from prolonged thirst, can form a competent idea 
of the delight, and I may add, energy, afforded me by 
the first draught of the putrid waters of the Meritsane. 
They equally invigorated my exhausted steed, whom 
I mounted immediately, and cantered up the bank of 
the river, in order if possible to reach the waggons 
before dark. The banks are precipitous — the chan- 
nel deep, broken, and rocky: clusters of reeds and 
long grass indicating those spots which retain the 
water during the hot months. It was with no small 
difficulty, after crossing the river, that I forced my way 
through the broad belt of tangled bushes which 
margined the edge. The moonless night was fast 
closing around, and my weary horse again began to 
droop. The Lions, commencing their nightly prowl, 
were roaring in all directions, and no friendly fire 
or beacon presenting itself to my view, the only al- 
ternative was to bivouac where I was-, and to renew 



Chap. VIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



71 



my search in the morning. Kindling a fire, I formed 
a thick bush into a pretty secure hut, by cutting 
away the middle, and closing the entrance with 
thorns; and having knee haltered * my horse to pre- 
vent his straying, I proceeded to dine upon a Guinea 
fowl that I had killed, comforting myself with another 
draught of aqua pura. The monarchs of the for- 
est roared incessantly, and so alarmed my horse, that 
I was obliged repeatedly to fire my rifle to give him 
confidence. It was piercingly cold, and all my fuel 
being expended, I suffered as much from chill as I 
had during the day from the scorching heat. About 
3 o'clock, completely overcome by fatigue, I could 
keep my eyes open no longer, and commending my- 
self to the protecting care of Providence, fell into 
a profound sleep, 

* Knee haltering is the colonial method of securing a 
horse when turned out to graze; a leathern thong attached 
to the neck, is passed round the knee, and tied. 



72 



CHAPTER IX. 



HUNTING AT MERITSANE. 

On opening my eyes, my first thought was of my 
horse. I started from my heathy bed in the hope of 
finding him where I had last seen him, but his place 
was empty. I roamed every where in search of him, 
and ascended trees which offered a good look out, but 
he was no where to be seen. It was more than 
probable he had been eaten by Lions, and I had al- 
most given up the search in despair, when I at length 
found his foot-mark, and traced him to a deep hollow 
near the river, where he was quietly grazing. The 
night's rest, if so it could be called, had restored him 
to strength, and I pursued my journey along the 
bank of the river, which I now re-crossed opposite to 
the site of some former scene of strife, marked by 
numerous human skeletons, bleached by exposure. 
A little further on T disturbed a large Lion, which 
walked slowly off, occasionally stopping and looking 
over his shoulder, as he deliberately ascended the op- 
posite bank. In the course of half an hour, I reach- 
ed the end of the dense jungle, and immediately dis- 
covered the waggon road ; but as I could detect no 
recent traces upon it, I turned to the Southward, and 



Chip. IX.] 



EXPEDITION, &e. W 73 



after riding seven or eight miles in the direction of 
Siklagole, had the unspeakable satisfaction of perceiv- 
ing the waggons drawn up under a large tree in the 
middle of the plain. The discharge of my rifle at 
a little distance, had relieved the anxiety of my com- 
panion and followers, who during the night had en- 
tertained the most gloomy forebodings on my ac- 
count, being convinced that I had either been torn 
piecemeal by Lions, or speared by the assagais of 
the cannibals! A cup of coffee was immediately 
offered me, which, as I had scarcely tasted nour- 
ishment for thirty hours, proved highly grateful ; and 
I learned that Richardson had been obliged to halt 
in the plain the preceding night, in consequence of 
the great length of the march, and the darkness 
overtaking him. This accounted for my not meet- 
ing him on the river bank, which we again reached 
in about two hours, encamping under a grove of 
spreading Mokaala trees. 

Both the Siklagole and the Meritsane take their 
source in the low range of hills called Kunuana, 
considerably to the Eastward of the point where 
we crossed them ; and, joining about the same dis- 
tance to the Westward, empty themselves into the 
Molopo. Near their confluence the camp of Mr. 
Bain, a trader to whose name I have already alluded, 
was attacked in 1834 by Moselekatse. A party of 
marauding Griquas, whom he had imprudently 

10 



74 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. IX. 



taken with him to assist in hunting, entered the ter- 
ritories of that Prince, and succeeded in capturing 
several head of cattle, with which they had made 
good their retreat. A large party of warriors, how- 
ever,, overtook them when within sight of the camp ; 
nearly all the followers fled in disorder on the first 
alarm, leaving their master to shift for himself, who 
finding the camp surrounded and resistance vain, 
jumped on his horse, and accompanied by four of 
his people, narrowly escaped with life, by riding 
through and killing some of the assailants. After 
travelling several days, and suffering dreadfully from 
want of food and water, the party reached Motito 
nearer dead than alive. 

The reports of four savages of the Batlapi tribe, 
who joined us yesterday, determined us to halt a 
day for the purpose of hunting. Richardson and 
myself left the waggons at day break, attended by 
these men, and crossing the river, took a North-west- 
erly direction through a park of magnificent cam- 
el thorn trees, many of which were groaning under the 
huge nests of the social grosbeak ; whilst others were 
decorated with green clusters of misletoe, the bright 
scarlet berries of which were highly ornamental. 
We soon perceived large herds of Quaggas and 
Brindled Gnoos, which continued to join each other 
until the whole plain seemed alive. The clatter of 
their hoofs was perfectly astounding, and I could 



Chap, IX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



75 



compare it to nothing, but to the din of a tremen- 
dous charge of cavalry, or the rushing of a mighty- 
tempest. I could not estimate the accumulated 
numbers, at less than fifteen thousand; a great 
extent of country being actually chequered black 
and white with their congregated masses. As the 
panic caused by the report of our rifles, extended, 
clouds of dust hovered over them; and the long 
necks of troops of ostriches were also to be seen, 
towering above the heads of their less gigantic neigh- 
bours, and sailing past with astonishing rapidity* 
Groups of purple Sassaybys, and brilliant red and 
yellow Hartebeests, likewise lent their aid to com- 
plete the picture, which must have been seen to be 
properly understood, and which beggars all attempt 
at description. The savages kept in our wake, dex- 
terously despatching the wounded Gnoos by a touch 
on the spine with the point of an assagai, and instantly 
covering up the carcases with bushes, to secure them 
from the voracity of the vultures, which hung about 
us like specks in the firmament^ and descended with 
the velocity of lightning, as each discharge of our 
artillery gave token of prey. As we proceeded, two 
strange figures were perceived standing under the 
shade of a tree; these we instantly knew to be 
Elands,* the savages at the same moment exclaiming 



Bosdaphas Oreas, Delineated in the African views, 



76 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. IX. 



with evident delight, Impoofo, Impoofo, and press- 
ing our horses to the utmost speed, we found our- 
selves for the first time, at the heels of the largest 
and most beautiful species of the antelope tribe. 
Notwithstanding the unweildy shape of these ani- 
mals, they had at first greatly the speed of our jaded 
horses, but being pushed, they soon separated ; their 
sleek coats turned first blue and then white with froth; 
the foam fell from their mouths and nostrils, and the 
perspiration from their sides. Their pace gradually 
slackened, and with their full brilliant eyes turned 
imploringly towards us, at the end of a mile, each 
was laid low by a single ball. They were young 
bulls, measuring upwards of seventeen hands at the 
shoulder. 

I was engaged in making a sketch of the one I 
had shot, when the savages came up, and in spite of 
all my remonstrances, proceeded with cold blooded 
ferocity to stab the unfortunate animal, stirring up 
the blood and shouting with barbarous exultation, 
as it issued from each newly inflicted wound, regard- 
less of the eloquent and piteous appeal, expressed 
in the beautiful clear black eye of the mild and in- 
offensive Eland. 

In size and shape, the body of the male Eland re- 
sembles that of a well conditioned Guzerat ox, not 
unfrequently attaining the height of nineteen hands, 
and weighing two thousand pounds. The head is 



Chap. IX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



77 



strictly that of the antelope, light, graceful, and bony, 
with a pair of magnificent straight horns, about two 
feet in length, spirally ringed, and pointed backwards. 
A broad and deep dewlap fringed with brown hair 
reaches to the knee. The color varies considerably 
with the age, being dun in some, in others an ashy 
blue with a tinge of ochre ; and in many also, san- 
dy grey approaching to white. The flesh is esteem- 
ed by all classes in Africa, above that of any other 
animal ; in grain and color it resembles beef, but is 
better tasted, and more delicate, possessing a pure 
game flavor, and the quantity of fat with which it 
is interlarded is surprising, greatly exceeding that 
of any other game quadruped, with which I am ac- 
quainted. The female is smaller and of slighter 
form, with less ponderous horns. The stoutest of our 
savage attendants, could with difficulty transport 
the head of the Eland to the waggons, where one 
of the Hottentots had just arrived with the carcase 
of a Sassayby that he had dragged a considerable 
distance, assisted by upwards of twenty savages. 
These men were no sooner made acquainted with 
the occurrences of the morning, than they set off at 
speed upon the tracks of our horses, and were pres- 
ently out of sight. About sunset the party returned, 
gorged to the throats, and groaning under an exter- 
nal load of flesh, which having been unable to con- 
sume, they had hung round their necks. 



78 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. IX. 



About midnight an unusual commotion caused us 
to start from our sleep. The whole of the cattle had 
burst through the thorn fence by which they were 
surrounded, and panic stricken, were blindly charging, 
they knew not whither; oxen, horses, and sheep, tumb- 
ling headlong over the waggon poles, and over each 
other, in indescribable confusion. The night was 
intensely dark, and all the fires had gone out — Cosur de 
Lion had clambered on to the top of the baggage wag- 
gon, and was screaming like a woman, whilst each 
Hottentot was discharging his gun, loaded with ball, 
in any direction that the muzzle might happen to have 
assumed. The horses were the least alarmed, and 
after floundering about in the dark for some time, we 
succeeded in recovering all but one; but every en- 
deavour to reclaim the oxen and sheep proving abor- 
tive, we retired again to rest, having first ascertained 
by the light of a candle, that the consternation had 
been occasioned by three Lions, that had entered the 
fold and slain two of the sheep. 

At day break, both Hottentots and savages were 
despatched on the tracks of the fugitives. Some of 
the savages shortly returned with the sheep, several 
more having, however, been devoured by Lions ; but 
the former did not make their appearance until noon, 
when they informed us that the oxen had divided 
into two parties, and being dreadfully alarmed would 
not stop in all probability until they should reach 



Chap. IX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



79 



the Kuruman; adding, that if we wished to recover 
them, each Hottentot must be provided with a horse 
and a supply of ammunition. Knowing from sad 
experience the fate that awaited our steeds, upon 
whose well being our sport entirely depended, we 
resisted the application; upon which all but Claas 
and Ethaldur, begged to throw up their commissions. 
No one had any complaint to allege except April, 
who objected to the fatness of, the mutton, and An- 
dries, who felt aggrieved by a threat of retribution 
extended at Chooi. The latter looked particularly 
black, and it was not until after he had been des- 
patched with Cobus on horseback in quest of the 
oxen, that we discovered him to have been the insti- 
gator of a plot, which had been joined by all, to de- 
sert us in the wilderness, and return to the Colony 
with the horses and whatever else they could lay 
their hands upon. 

Apprehensive of another attack from Lions, we 
moved in the afternoon to the opposite side of the 
river, drawing up the waggons on the top of a hil- 
lock, in such a manner as to flank the cattle enclo- 
sure — an arrangement which we ever afterwards 
observed. Our friends the Batlapi returned about 
sunset with the oxen, which they had found twelve 
miles off, a piece of service for which according to 
agreement, they were rewarded with a yard of to- 
bacco and a tinder box, Cobus and Andries also 



80 



EXPEDITION, &c. 



[Chap. IX. 



came back during the night, having galled the backs 
of both the horses, without obtaining any tidings of 
the lost one. The whole of the following day was 
passed in fruitless endeavours to recover the tru- 
ant, and it was not until six months afterwards, that 
we ascertained he had returned to the farm on which 
he had been bred in the Hantam, a distance of five 
hundred miles. 



81 



CHAPTER X. 



FROM MERITSANE TO MOSEGA, THE CAPITAL OF THE 
CHIEF MOSELEKATSE. 

Continuing our journey on the 14th October, 
twenty- eight miles, through a beautiful country a- 
bounding with trees and grass, we reached the Lot- 
lokane, the shallow channel of a periodical river, 
said in the rainy season to contribute its mite to the 
Molopo, which it joins at some distance to the West- 
ward. At this season it was perfectly dry; but we 
had fortunately found a small pool of water on the 
road, at which we breakfasted, after killing several 
Hartebeests and Sassaybys. The skins of both these 
animals, and especially of the latter, are in great de- 
mand amongst the savages, for Kobos, or fur cloaks — 
both on account of their brilliant color and their 
supple nature, They are cured by means of con- 
tinual rubbing, stretching, and scraping ; and for this 
purpose are constantly carried about, and referred 
to as an amusement in moments of leisure. The ope- 
ration is rendered less tedious by the constant addi- 
tion of grease : and less irksome, by savage howlings 
and gruntings, intended to pass current for singing. 
The Sassayby or crescent horned Antelope, and the 

11 



82 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. X. 



Caama or Hartebeest, are members of the same sub- 
genus, and are both remarkable for their elevated 
withers, drooping hind quarters, and triangular form. 
The color of the former is purple violet, and of the 
latter bright orange ; their legs and faces being eccen- 
trically marked, as if with the brush of a sign 
painter; and their horns placed on the very summit 
of the head, upon a prolongation of the frontal bone, 
instead of above the eyes as in most other Antelopes. 
Their brain, as well as that of the Gnoo, is filled with 
large white maggots — a phenomenon, of which, until 
I had received ocular evidence, I could not help 
being sceptical. 

In the morning four savages volunteered to show 
us a Rhinoceros. We accompanied them amongst 
ruined stone kraals of great extent, situated to the 
left of the road, and so overgrown with thorn bushes, 
that we were not unfrequently obliged to exchange 
an erect for a stooping posture, and at times even to 
travel on our hands and knees. We found nothing:, 
however, but a pack of wild dogs * that had just 
hunted down a Hartebeest. Like the wild dogs of 
India, these animals take the field in organized packs, 
and by their perseverance seldom fail to weary out 
the swiftest Antelope. Of a slender form, the general 
color is ochreous yellow, blotched and brindled with 



' Eyama cenatica. 



Chap. X.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



83 



dingy black. The ears are large and semicircular : 
the muzzle and face black, and the tail bushy like that 
of a fox. 

During the day we passed another extensive stone 
town, which once contained its il busy thousands/' 
but now presents a heap of ruins. The walls extend 
more than a mile on each side of the road; and the 
plain on which it is constructed, is thickly covered 
with a species of wild basil, yielding an aromatic scent, 
-when crushed under the foot, We had scarcely pass- 
ed this, when the lightning began to flash, and tre- 
mendous peals of thunder burst over our heads, A 
black cloud that had suddenly formed, then emptied 
its contents upon us ; the rain pouring down like 
a sluice for five minutes, and obliging us to seek shel- 
ter in the waggons. Ceasing as abruptly as it com- 
menced, we passed on at once to parched and dusty 
land, from a tract which had in an instant become 
covered with pools of water. 

It was nearly dark when we reached the Molopo, 
a few miles below its source. This river, which 
forms the Western boundary of Moselekatse's terri- 
tory, exhibits a broad shallow bed, covered with turf, 
traversed by a deep stream about ten yards wide, 
completely overgrown with high reeds. The soil on 
both sides is black, spread with luxuriant grass, and 
detached clumps of acacia. We crossed, and en- 
c, i nped on the Northern bank, under a solitary tree, 



84 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. X. 



around which was a ready made fence for the cattle. 
During the night, the obtrusive visit of a Hippo- 
potamus, of which amphibious animals there are 
abundance in the river — caused great consternation : 
Richard screaming, and the Hottentots expending 
their ball cartridge as usual. 

The two following days were spent in hunting the 
Eland and Gemsbok.* The latter, which is doubt- 
less the animal from which the delineations of the 
fabulous Unicorn have descended, is one of the most 
magnificent Antelopes in the universe. Although 
common in Namaqua-land, it is rare in this part of the 
country, and we were fortunate in finding three, one 
of which I succeeded in riding down : nearly, however, 
sacrificing my best horse in the arduous achievement. 
The Oryx is about the size of an ass, and nearly of 
the same ground color, with a black list stripe down 
the back, and on each flank; white legs, variegat- 
ed with black bands : and a white face, marked with 
the figure of a black nose-band and head-stall. Its 
copious black tail literally sweeps the ground : a mane 
reversed, and a tuft of flowing black hair on the 
breast, with a pair of straight slender horns, (common 
to both sexes,) three feet in length, and ringed at the 
base, completing the portrait. During the chase, I 
passed under the noses of three Rhinoceroses, which, 

* Oryx Capensis. Delineated in the African views. 



Chap. VIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



85 



on my return, I was unable to find. Richardson had 
fallen in with a troop of five Lions, one of which he 
wounded, but being deserted by the Hottentots, was 
unable to follow among the brushwood; and my 
horse was so completely exhausted, that I was 
obliged to drag him home, carrying the saddle myself. 

The night of the 17th was rainy and tempestuous. 
Whilst the wind howled against the unsheltered 
waggons with a violence that bid fair to overturn 
them, the Lions, which never failed to take advan- 
tage of such an opportunity, prowled round the camp ; 
and roaring in concert with the sighing of the reeds, 
so alarmed the cattle that they thrice broke loose 
and were recovered with difficulty. There was noth- 
ing however, to prevent our resuming our journey in 
the morning, the thirsty earth having completely ab- 
sorbed the deluge that had fallen. Our road lay 
across a plain, with isolated groves of acacia, and we 
frequently passed over a solid pavement of granite. 
Searching amongst a low belt of wooded hillocks, 
which skirted a part of the road, I found a fine fat 
Eland, which I drove into the plain, and assisted by 
Richardson, brought up to the waggons, and then 
despatched, the caravan being immediately halted. 
We frequently afterwards adopted this plan, which 
saved the trouble of carrying the meat from a dis- 
tance ; and the unfortunate animal once blown, was 
much more manageable than a Smithfield ox. 



\ 



86 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. X. 



Andries having donned his best apparel, here pro- 
posed to proceed on horse-back to Mosega, in order 
to apprize the King of our approach — an offer -which 
we gladly accepted- The fears of the rest of our fol- 
lowers, and of Coeur de Lion in particular, increased 
in the ratio of our advance : he wept almost inces- 
santly, saying that it mattered little where he laid 
his bones. From this point, the summits of distant 
ranges of hiUs could be distinguished, across exten- 
sive plains covered with grass waving to the breeze, 
which stretched away to the Northward and East- 
ward, far as the eye could reach. On the left, the 
low range of hillocks already noticed, terminated 
at some distance in several detached hills — some coni- 
cal, others table topped — the white slabs on the sides 
of these strongly contrasting with the black charred 
bushes which grew amongst the crevices. A large 
portion of the country had been set on fire a few weeks 
before, in order to clear off the withered grass, and 
the bountiful thunder clouds having caused the young 
green blades to make their appearance, large herds 
of game had been attracted to the spot. At the gorge 
of these hills, was an extensive line of pit falls, into 
one of which a Hartebeest, whose leg I had broken, 
fell as I was riding him down — my horse only nar- 
rowly escaping being ingulfed in a second, at the 
same moment. During the day I killed another Im- 



Chap. X.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



87 



poofo, which actually measured nineteen hands two 
inches at the shoulder. 

Our road was now sometimes over a rocky pave- 
ment, at others, over ground which threatened the 
destruction of the waggons. Large stones more 
than a foot in height, offering sharp sides and pro- 
jecting points, were firmly fixed in the ground : and, 
added to careless driving, threw the vehicles from side 
to side, with a violence that shook every spoke. 
About 4 o'clock we halted at the Mimori river, only 
five miles from Mosega. A chain of lakes to the 
left of our camp, contained a herd of wild Buffaloes,* 
w T hose formidable heads, resembling masses of rock, 
were protruded from the water amid waving sedges, 
the whole of their bodies being immerged. I wound- 
ed one, which I attempted to ride down; but the sharp 
pointed stones cutting the shoeless feet of my horse 
to pieces, I brought him back to the waggons dead 
lame. 

Four Matabili warriors arrived from Mosega in 
the evening, bringing a civil message from the Deputy 
Governor, who, in the absence of Moselekatse, and 
of his prime minister Kalipi, had been apprized by 
Andries of our advent. Tall, straight, well propor- 
tioned, and of regular features, these men, although of 
very dark complexion, were far superior in appearance 



* Bubalus Coffer, Delineated in the African views. 



88 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap, X. 



to any tribe that we had hitherto seen. Their heads 
were shaven, and surmounted by an oval ring attached 
to the scalp ; a large perforation in the lobe of one ear, 
receiving a small gourd snuff-box. Their dress con- 
sisted of a leathern girdle, with a few strips of cat-skin 
attached to the front and rear; and each was armed with 
two short javelins, and a knobbed stick used for throw- 
ing. We made them heartily welcome to our fire- 
side — filled their stomachs with beef, and their boxes 
with snuff, and left them making their nests among 
the sheltered bushes on the river bank. A strong 
disagreeable wind setting in, completely destroyed 
the fire ; and after we had retired, it increased to such 
a perfect hurricane that sleep was out of the ques- 
tion. One waggon was carefully closed and drawn 
up under the shelter of a superb grove of trees; yet 
the bitter blast that howled without, cut so keenly 
through the blankets, that it penetrated even to the 
narrow of our bones. I wrapped my sheep skin 
coverlet closer about me, without any sensible ad- 
vantage; and my companion, after successively in- 
ducting himself into every article of wearing appa- 
rel upon which he could put his hand, still declared 
himself as cold as ice. 

At day break the mercury in Farenheits thermom- 
eter stood at forty-four degrees, yet to the bodily 
feelings, the air was still much colder than we had 
felt it, when down to eighteen degrees. We crossed 



Chap. X.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



89 



the deep sedgy stream of the Mimori, and ascend* 
ing to a higher level, were presently met by His Ex- 
cellency the Deputy Governor, a tall athletic savage 
of commanding appearance, blind of the left eye. 
His attire was of the nature already described, and, 
saving that he was unarmed, differed in no respect 
from that of his attendants. A general greeting and 
hand shaking ensued — the snuff-box circulated brisk- 
ly, and we all became capital friends. 

Smoking is not a fashionable vice amongst the 
Matabili, but all classes are passionately addicted to 
snuffing— indeed the sharing the contents of your box 
with a stranger, is the greatest compliment that can 
be paid him. The mode of taking it is not unworthy 
of notice. One half of the powder having been trans- 
ferred to the palm of the hand, by means of a small 
ivory spoon, which is usually hung round the neck, 
the recipient leisurely seats himself under a conveni- 
ent bush: drawing every grain into his nostrils at once, 
with an eagerness, which although followed by a 
copious flood of tears, proves the extent of the en- 
joyment afforded. Worse than barbarian would that 
man be esteemed, who would wantonly interrupt a 
social party so employed. 

After travelling about five miles, over undulating 
downs, covered with luxuriant grass, we descended 
into a lovely and fertile valley, in form resembling 
a basin of ten or twelve miles in circumference;, 

12 



90 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. X. 



bounded on the North and Northeast by the Kurri- 
chane range of mountains, and containing the sour- 
ces of the Mariqua river. Prior to the occupancy 
of this valley by the Matabili, it formed the princi- 
pal residence of the Baharootzi tribe. It is now 
extensively cultivated, and contains the military town 
of Mosega, and fifteen other of Moselekatse's prin- 
cipal kraals. On our way to the houses of the 
American Missionaries, we passed several of these, 
to the no small delight of their inhabitants, who, 
principally women and children, flocked round the 
waggons in great numbers, offering their greasy 
hands without compunction,* at every step the crowd 
increased — both sexes were to be seen working in 
the fields , but they all quitted their occupation as 
they saw us, and adding themselves to the group, 
escorted us to the halting ground. We received a 
hearty welcome from Dr. Wilson, one of the Ameri- 
can fraternity, from whom we learned, on delivering 
a letter from Mr. Moffat, that he had had the misfor- 
tune to lose his wife a few days before; and that the 
rest of the party were likewise dangerously ill with 
fever, contracted from having slept in their newly built 
house before the floors were dry. This gentleman 
likewise gave us accounts of the capture of several wag- 
gons, the property of a farmer named Erasmus, who 
was hunting on the Vaal river. This was the event 
to which Captain Sutton had referred,, but Dr. Wil- 



1 



Chap. X.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 91 

son further informed us, that a very large Commando* 
under Kalipi, the Minister and Governor of Mosega, 
had already been some days gone to the river Vaal, to 
complete the destruction of the emigrant farmers 
— concluding by strongly advising us not to visit the 
King at such a conjuncture. Having come thus 
far however, we resolved to proceed, and with that 
view immediately despatched messengers to his Ma- 
jesty, with a present of beads, and a request that we 
might be suffered to pay our respects. These men 
received a bunch of beads weighing one pound, and 
the promise of another if they returned on the third 
day — Moselekatse was reported to be at a kraal 
fifty miles to the North-ward, at which he had resid- 
ed ever since the establishment of the Missionaries 
at Mosega his head quarters. 

It rained during the whole of the night; and 
during the whole of the following day, we were sur- 
rounded without a moment's respite, by a crowd of 
people importuning for tobacco. They entered the 
tent, and clambered into the waggon without cere- 
mony, leaving a host of vermin behind them, and 
becoming at length so troublesome, that we were 
compelled, in self defence, to drive them away with 
the waggon whips. A long line of women and girls ? 

* Commando is the Colonial term for every expedition of 
a Military nature. 



92 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. X. 



however, still continued to stand at a distance on 
tiptoe, attempting to gratify their curiosity, by peep- 
ing in at the back of the waggon; whilst others sat 
and loitered about as if their time were valueless. 
The Governor invited himself to dinner in the even- 
ing, and as it rained again, sat so late, that we were 
at last obliged to send the Parsee outside to start 
him, which he did by poking a stick under his per- 
son from below the walls of the tent, a hint which 
he good naturedly took, and departed. 

We embraced an early opportunity of mentioning 
to the Missionaries, our intention of leaving the country 
by the Vaal river; a scheme w r hich they discounte- 
nanced as fraught with peril. But whilst they felt sure 
that Moselekatse would never listen to such an arrange- 
ment, they obligingly consented to allow one of their 
domestics, Baba, a converted Bechuana who had ac- 
companied Dr. Smith's expedition as interpreter, to 
attend us as far as the King's residence, in the like 
capacity. 

The next morning we rode through a pass in the 
hills behind the Mission houses, towards the Mimori 
lakes, in order to obtain food for the people; it being 
an object to husband our resources, as far as possible, 
against our return. The plains here are broken by 
low ranges of stony hills, with clumps of acacia. A 
large herd of Buffaloes on being pursued took to the 
lakes, into which we followed them, the water reach- 



Chap, X„] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



93 



ing up to the horse's girths, and the reeds far above 
our own heads. We could hear the animals forcing 
their way through, immediately in front of us; but 
after several hours severe labour, could only succeed in 
driving out one, which breaking at the opposite side 
of one lake, had gained another before we could 
overtake him. A general skirmish then commenced, 
some of the followers wading up to their middles, 
whilst others fired from the banks, whenever a glimpse 
of the Buffaloes could be obtained. Several were 
wounded, and Piet, in attempting to despatch one, 
was charged and knocked over by another. Capless 
and disarmed, we could see him through a telescope, 
lying beneath a shady Karra tree, which reared its 
venerable head in the middle of the lake, holding his 
hands to his stomach as if mortally wounded; his 
adversary drooping near him, the blood streaming 
from its nostrils, and the moment of dissolution ap- 
proaching. A broad deep stream, tangled over with 
sedge, encircling this spot on three sides, defied ap- 
proach either on horse-back or on foot, without incur- 
ring the certainty of drowning ; and compelled us to 
ride three miles round, before we could arrive to the 
rescue. By that time the BufFaloe was dead, and Piet 
appearing more frightened than hurt, we removed his 
leathern doublet, which was much torn, and ascertain- 
ed that there were no holes in his skin. A laborious 
search among the reeds brought his cap and gun to 



94 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. X. 



light, and the wounded marl being borne out by the 
savages, was placed upon a horse and conducted to 
Mosega, where he enjoyed the advantage of Dr. Wil- 
son's professional aid. 

On our return, Mr. Lindley, one of the Mission- 
aries, still very weak, though slowly recovering from 
fever, came to apprise us of the return of the mes- 
sengers from Kapain with a pressing invitation from 
the King, who declared that we were " his own white 
men," and must hasten our advance as much as pos- 
sible, so as to arrive on the third day. These men 
had used extraordinary expedition, and allured by the 
promise of beads, had performed one hundred miles 
in less than thirty-six hours. Seeing us determined to 
continue our journey the next morning, Mr. Lindley 
and the Doctor again endeavoured by every argument 
in their power, to dissuade us from our intention of forc- 
ing our way out by the Vaal river, which we were 
bent upon doing, whether Moselekatse permitted it or 
not; but we at tfie same time expressed our convic- 
tion, that we had in the waggons, that which w r ould 
bribe his majesty to accede to our wishes. Without 
the least anticipating the success of our project, Dr. 
Wilson then entrusted us with a letter, announcing to 
his family the heavy loss he bad recently sustained. 

The accounts given by these Gentlemen were not 
calculated to raise our spirits, or give us a favorable 
impression of the treatment we should experience 
from the despot, of whose inhuman executions and 



Chap. X.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



95 



horrible hatcheries, they could never speak with 
patience; representing him to be treacherous, op- 
pressive, cruel, and capricious in an extraordinary 
degree, and to exact from his subjects an abject de- 
ference, little according with American notions of 
tolerance. Amongst his more recent enormities, they 
adduced the murder of a trader, named Gibson, with 
the whole of his followers, and of two servants, be- 
longing to Captains Sutton and Moultry, the particu- 
lars of which shall hereafter be given. Although the 
tyrant had not opposed the establishment of the Mis- 
sion, its presence was far from agreeable to him ; and 
not only had he entirely withdrawn himself from Mose- 
ga, but he had also given great annoyance, by inter- 
dicting his people from entering the service of its mem- 
bers, alleging that they were capable of taking care 
of themselves. Under so despotic a Government, it 
is not probable that the Matabili will ever derive 
much advantage from the exhortations of Ministers 
of the Gospel, were they even better disposed to re- 
ceive them. In lieu of the reverence to which these 
worthy men were entitled, and which they would 
have received from other savage tribes, we not un- 
frequently observed groups of both sexes, gazing in 
at the windows of the Mission houses as at wild 
beasts in a menagerie, with every demonstration of 
merriment at the expence of their inmates — behav- 
iour, which the proceedings on the part of the Kingv 
could not fail to induce on that of his subjects, 



96 



CHAPTER XL 



FROM MOSEGA TO THE KURRICHANE MOUNTAINS. 

Leaving the Mission house on the 22d October, 
and repassing- the town of Mosega, within the fence 
of which we saw Erasmus's captured waggons, our 
road wound for some distance, in a North-westerly 
direction, amongst numerous Matabili villages, hav- 
ing all the same form and appearance, though vary- 
ing considerably in size and extent. A circular 
thorn fence, six or eight feet in height, with only one 
entrance, encloses a sloping area ; around the cir- 
cumference of which the dwellings or huts are con- 
structed. The cattle are kept during the night in 
the space so surrounded. The domiciles are paltry 
low huts, of a circular form, having one small door- 
way directed towards the centre; it is of very nar- 
row dimensions, barely affording space for a man to 
crawl through upon his hands and knees. Crowds 
of women and children poured down from each kraal 
as we passed, holding out their hands, and then plac- 
ing their noses in the hollow of the palm, snuffing 
and sneezing violently, as a hint that they required 
Qui or snuff, for which, to them the greatest of all 
luxuries, they became as usual extremely clamorous. 



Chap. XI.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



97 



We saw comparatively few men, the larger proportion 
of the able bodied being absent with Kalipi on the 
Commando against the emigrant farmers. The 
Missionaries estimated this force to consist of near 
five thousand warriors. 

On the North and North-east, the Kurrichane range 
of mountains rose in majestic grandeur, a great treat 
to us after the extensive unvaried flats over which 
we had travelled since leaving Kuruman, and indeed 
almost ever since passing the S^euwbergen. The 
cultivated land in all parts of the basin was extensive; 
and countless herds of sleek oxen were grazing on 
the slopes. Our one eyed friend, (he Deputy Gover- 
nor, w r ho was exceedingly reluctant to leave such 
amiable society, had taken his seat on the fore chest 
of the leading waggon, having first paid Cceur de 
Lion the compliment of removing his camlet cloak, 
and enveloping his own greasy person therein as a 
protection against the cold, which was far from mode- 
rate. The old man's elliptically crowned bald pate 
protruded above the high collar, contrasted with the 
grotesque solemnity of his deportment, had a suffi- 
ciently ludicrous appearance. Baba, the interpreter, 
had brought two horses one of which he rode. Piet, 
who fancied himself at the point of death, had com- 
posed himself upon my cot, of which he held the 
monopoly for several days, and the two savages who 
had announced our advent to the King, accompanied 

13 



98 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chip. XL 



us as guides, or more correctly speaking, as spies. 
These fellows rendered themselve particularly ob- 
noxious during the whole journey, by their peremp- 
tory interference in our affairs, as well as by their 
offensive familiarity. They often clambered into 
our beds without ceremony, and obtruded them- 
selves stark naked when least required. 

We unyoked for breakfast on the bank of one 
the numerous streams, that here form the source of 
the Mariqua, a river of which I shall have occasion 
frequently to speak. A spacious and level valley, 
hemmed in on three sides by the skirting hills of the 
Kurrichane range, was intersected by three or four 
of these rivulets, whose serpentine course could be 
traced by the sedges that rose high above their banks. 
As soon as the Governor had completed his break- 
fast, and the waggons were ready to proceed, the 
extension of his Excellency's greasy hand, announced 
his intention of leaving us and returning to Mosega. 
A severe pump handling, and the presentation of 
two bunches of beads to himself, and a brass wire 
collar to his little son, whilst it firmly cemented our 
friendship, terminated our acquaintance for ever 
under a parting assurance, that he had made a fa- 
vorable report of us to his royal master, who was, 
he said, "Monanti, Monanti, Monanti," or in 
plain English, the most gracious of sovereigns. 

As the waggons proceeded, we turned off the road 



Chap. Xi.j SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



99 



in search of a Rhinoceros, and speedily became so 
entangled in a labyrinth of thorn fences, newly con- 
structed to entrap game, that we had great diffi- 
culty in extricating ourselves. Stiff thorn branches, 
too high to be surmounted, were firmly fixed in the 
ground, and so entwined amidst a dense grove of mi- 
mosas, that after fruitless endeavours to force a pas- 
sage in various places, we found that we had ridden 
completely round the enclosure, to the point at which 
we had first entered. 

In the course of two hours the waggons had reach- 
ed the termination of the plain, and were beginning 
to ascend the ridge which bounds the valley of Mose- 
ga. We shortly afterwards entered a pass or gap, 
which conducted us between two ranges of the Kur- 
richane hills; the slopes on either side were covered 
with stately trees, from which depended clusters of 
moss and festoons of various parasitic plants. The 
ground was broken and stony, and in parts abound- 
ed with deep holes. In the act of killing a Sassayby, 
my horse put his feet into one of these, and came 
down with frightful violence, cutting my knees and 
elbows to the bone, breaking his own nose, and, 
what was a far greater misfortune, and one that I 
had long anticipated, fracturing the stock of my 
only and especially favorite rifle 9 I could have wept, 
if the doing so would have availed any thing. A 
strip of the Sassayby's hide rectified the damage for 



100 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XI 



the present at least; and having packed the flesh in 
the waggon, we continued winding among the hills, 
constantly assured by the guides, that the kraal at 
which they had resolved we should pass the night, 
was close at hand, hut still not reaching it until we 
had travelled full thirty miles from Mo s eg a, by which 
time it w 7 as fairly dark. At last we perceived fires 
in the valley beneath us, and soon drew up under 
the fence of a little village, constructed as usual on 
a slope. 

Scarcely were the oxen unyoked when the clouds, 
which had been collecting for some hours, burst at 
once upon our devoted heads. Deafening claps of 
thunder pealed above us, preceded by forked and 
vivid lightning, which cast upon the surrounding 
landscape, a lurid and almost incessant glare. The 
windows of heaven were literally opened, and a pelt- 
ing pitiless deluge descended, which in an instant ex- 
tinguished the fire and put an end to all culinary 
operations. We. however, succeeded in obtaining a 
little milk from the village, and in a few minutes 
Morpheus strewing his poppies over us, we ceased 
to trouble our heads about the state of the weather, 
or our soaking supperless condition. 

A tranquil morning succeeded the most tempestu- 
ous of nights. The inhabitants of the kraal were 
anxious that we should shoot a Rhinoceros, which 
they pretended to have seen at no great distance — 



Chap. XI.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



but although we sacrificed cue half of our raiment 
in the attempt to oblige them, the animal was no 
where to be found. The road still wound among 
the mountains; three hours travelling brought us to 
a kraal at no great distance from tne ancient town 
of Kurrichane, in which Mr, Campbell found the 
Baharootzis about ten years ago. This once popu- 
lous city was destroyed by Moselekatse, and the 
inhabitants scattered in various directions. Here 
the guides declared it was the King's command that 
we should tarry until the following day when he 
expected to see us. But as the royal lodge was still 
far distant, w 7 e obstinately insisted upon continuing 
our journey after breakfast, so as to get clear of the 
hills in the course of the day; and were accordingly 
preparing to start, when a herald, called in the Ma- 
tabili language Imbongo, a proclaimer of the King's 
titles, suddenly made his appearance outside the 
kraal, to give us a little insight into his majesty's bi- 
ography. Advancing slowly towards the waggons 
he opened the exhibition by roaring and charging, 
in frantic imitation of the king of beasts — then pla- 
cing his arm before his mouth and swinging it rapidly 
in pantomimic representation of the Elephant, he 
threw bis trunk above his head and shrilly trumpeted. 
He next ran on tiptoe imitating the Ostrich, and 
lastly humbling himself in the dust, wept like an in- 
fant. At each interval of the scene, be recounted 
the matchless prowess and mighty conquests of his 



102 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XL 



illustrious monarch, and made the hills re-echo with 
his praise. He was a brawny athletic savage, up- 
wards of six feet in height, naked as he was born. 
Frenzied by his energetic gesticulations, the per- 
spiration trickled from his greasy brow, and white 
foam descended in flakes from his distorted mouth, 
whilst his eye glared with excitement. 

The road now became almost impracticable — large 
trees overhung the way, and threatened the destruc- 
tion of the waggon tents ; we proceeded very slowly, 
and narrowly escaped being upset, the jungle becom- 
ing more and more intricate as we advanced. Game 
traps and pit fall were to be sseen through every 
avenue, many of the thorn fences extending across 
the path, and impeding the waggons until cut away 
with the hatchet. A party of six natives had fol- 
lowed our tracks and volunteered to show a Giraffe.* 
I emerged under their guidance from the forest we 
were threading, into a wide plain^ on which I saw, 
for the first time, the footsteps of four of these gigan- 
tic quadrupeds, but no living objects save a few Sas- 
saybys, one of which I foolishly shot, when four of 
my savages immediately slunk behind to eat him. 
I was much struck with the spoor or track of the 
Cameleopard — it was different from every thing I 
had seen or imagined it would resemble. The larg- 

* Camehopardalis Giraffa Delineated in the African 
Views. 



/ 



Chap. XI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, f 08 

est impression was eleven inches in length, of paral- 
lelogramatic form, tapered at the toe, and rounded 
at the heel.. I felt singular satisfaction in finding 
myself at length treading on ground imprinted with 
the recent foot steps of that extraordinary animal, 

I had by this time ridden far in advance of the 
waggons, and as night was fast closing around, I 
began to be apprehensive that I should have to bivou- 
ac in the bush. The savages appeared to contem- 
plate the same contingency, and evinced a vast long- 
ing to join their companions, who had wisely remain™ 
ed with the flesh pots. I gave them by signs to un- 
derstand that I disapproved of such a measure, and 
we all pushed on as briskly as possible. A contuma- 
cious Rhinoceros * was standing directly in our path, 
and although hailed repeatedly refused to make way. 
There was just light sufficient to admit of my dis- 
charging both barrels of my rifle into his unweildy 
sides. Sneezing violently and wheezing he ran off 
in the direction we were taking, and presently sub- 
sided in the path. We approached him with caution, 
but he was dead. At the same moment a discharge 
of musquetry, and a bright beacon fire bursting forth, 
directed our benighted steps to the encampment. It 
was at the termination of the forest, and not more 
than two hours journey from the residence of the 
King. 

* Rhinoceros Afrkanus, Delineated in the African Views, 



104 



CHAPTER XII. 



ARRIVAL AT KAPAIN, AND VISIT FROM THE CHIEF 
MOSELEKATSE. 

Fke absence of water, added to our anxiety to 
kiss the hand of his Majesty, induced us to yoke the 
oxen much earlier than usual on the 24th. The 
Hottentots were all in high spirits, their timidity hav- 
ing actually left them for a season. It seemed as if 
some new and excitinor emotion were felt at our near 
approach to the King, which they considered as a 
crisis in their fate. Even Cceur de Lion was resign- 
ed to his doom — he had dried his eyes, and went like 
a lamb to the slaughter. Five miles travelling over 
a fertile plain, broken occasionally by isolated hills 
of inconsiderable altitude — and covered with large 
herds of oxen, brought us within a short distance of 
three conical mountains, disposed in a triangular 
form, within the area enclosed by which we were 
told that the royal kraal would be found. As our 
approach was discovered, the tops of the hills be- 
came lined with natives, some of whom ran dowa 
at intervals to report our progress, but it was not 
until we had actually entered the gorge, that a mis- 
erable hamlet was perceived, which Baba immedi- 
ately pointed out as the imperial residence. 



Chap. XII.] EXPEDITION, &c. 



105 



Piet and the Parsee now guided the waggons: 
Coeur de Lion, not wishing to find himself in the 
front of the battle, volunteered to drive the cattle in 
the rear, and the other six Hottentots proceeded in 
advance with solemn step, saluting the King with 
repeated discharges of musquetry, as a complimen- 
tary mode of announcing our arrival. Several of 
the subordinate chieftains, who were standing near 
the gateway of the kraal then advanced, and as the 
waggons ascended the acclivity, took the hand of 
each of our party in succession, repeating the word, 
fellow! fellow! fellow! several times. The principal 
of these men was Um'Nombate, a peer of the realm. 
He was an elderly man of slight figure,, benevolent 
aspect, and mild but dignified demeanor. He w T ore 
the usual tails, consisting of a few strips of wild cat 
and monkey skin dangling in front, and some larger 
and more widely apart behind. The elliptical ring 
or issigoko, was surmounted by the inflated gall blad- 
der of a sheep. Andries, Piet, and April, were old 
acquaintances, and he appeared glad to see them. 
In reply to our enquiries respecting the health of 
the King, and whether it was the royal pleasure that 
we should visit him, he observed that his Majesty 
was very glad we had arrived, and would come to 
the waggons anon, at the same time directing them 
to be drawn up outside the gate. The next in rank 
was a chief of mean and contemptible exterior, whose 

14 



108 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XII. 



repulsive manners were but too exactly indicated by 
bis scowling profile. He was deeply scarred with 
small pox; and excepting a necklace of Lions' claws, 
three inflated gall bladders on his pate, and a goodly 
coat of grease upon his hide, was perfectly naked. 
I saw nothing remarkable about any of the others. 
They all carried snuff-boxes stuck in their ears; a col- 
lection of skin streamers like the tails of a lady's 
boa attached to a thin waistcord, being the nearest 
approach to an habiliment amongst them. All their 
heads were shaven, sufficient hair only being left to 
attach the issigoko, which is composed of sinews 
sewn to the hair and blackened with grease. 

Shortlv after the oxen were unyoked, and the tent 
erected, Mohanycom, the King's page, came forth 
from the kraal bearing the congratulations of his 
Majesty. He too was unincumbered with raiment 
of any sort; but wore a red feather from the long 
tailed Finch in his hair, which, unlike that of the rest, 
was unshorn, and destitute of the issigoko. The 
dimensions of his mouth were calculated to excite 
the astonishment of every beholder; that feature lite- 
rally extending from ear to ear. An inspection of 
our property then took place. Net a word was 
spoken : neither did any of the party betray the 
smallest symptom either of surprise or even of grat- 
ification. An imperturbable gravity pervaded the 
countenance of every one, and as soon as they had 



Chap, XII.) 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



107 



sufficiently scrutinized, they retired to report to the 
Chieftain the result of their observations. 

It was some hours before we could obtain any 
breakfast, the nearest water being three miles from 
the kraal. We felt quite certain that the King must 
be dying with impatience to obtain possession of the 
various presents we had brought for him, but he 
thought it dignified to affect indifference, and prose- 
cuted his ideas of propriety so rigorously, that his 
non-appearance became at length alarming. We 
therefore despatched Baba to say that every thing 
was prepared for his reception, and that we were 
extremely anxious to pay our respects." In the 
course of a few minutes, loud shouting and yelling 
announced his approach. He was attended by the 
spies that had accompanied us from Mosega, several 
of his Chiefs, and most of the warriors who were 
not absent on the expedition I have alluded to, arm- 
ed with shields and assagais. As he advanced 
others rushed up with a shout, brandishing their 
sticks. A number of women followed with cala- 
bashes of beer on their heads ; and two pursuivants 
cleared the way, by roaring, charging, prancing, ana 
caricoling as already described, flourishing their 
short sticks in a most furious manner, and proclaim- 
ing the royal titles in a string of unbroken senten- 
ces. As we advanced to meet him, several of the 
crowd exclaimed " Haiyah! Haiyah! " a shout of 



108 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XII. 



congratulation and triumph. Having shaken hands, 
we led him into the tent, and seated him on a chair; 
the courtiers and great men squatting themselves on 
their hams on the ground in semicircular order on 
either side. He was particularly glad to see Andries, 
and shook him by the hand several times. 

The expression of the despot's features, though 
singularly cunning, wily, and suspicious, is not alto- 
gether disagreeable. His figure is rather tall, well 
turned and active, but leaning to corpulency. Of 
dignified and reserved manners, the searching quick- 
ness of his eye, the point of his questions, and the 
extreme caution of his replies, stamp him at once as 
a man capable of ruling the wild and sanguinary 
spirits by which he is surrounded. He appeared 
about forty years of age, but being totally beardless, 
it was difficult to form a correct estimate of the 
years he had numbered. The elliptical ring on his 
closely shorn scalp, was decorated with three green 
feathers, from the tail of the Paroquet, placed hori- 
zontally, two behind and one in front. A single 
string of small blue beads, encircled his neck; a 
bunch of twisted sinews encompassed his left ankle, 
and the usual girdle dangling before and behind with 
leopards' tails completed his costume. 

The interpreters, three in number, were ranged 
in front. After a long interval of silence, during 
which the chieftain's eyes were far from inactive, he 



Chap. XII.J 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



109 



opened the conversation by saying he rejoiced we 
had come to bring him news from his friends the 
white people. Mohanycom put this speech into Be- 
chuana, Baba translated it into Dutch, and Andries 
endeavoured to render the meaning intelligible in 
English. To this we replied, that having heard of 
the King's fame in a distant land, we had come three 
mocns across the great water to see him, and had 
brought for his acceptance a few trifles from our 
country, which we thought would prove agreeable. 
He smiled condescendingly, and the Parsee immedi- 
ately placed at his august feet the Duffel great coat 
which I have already described, as being lined and 
trimmed with scarlet shalloon ; a coil of brass wire 
weighing fifty pounds; a mirror two feet square; two 
pounds of Irish blackguard snuff, and fifty pounds 
weight of blood red beads. Hitherto the King had 
considered it beneath his dignity to evince the slight- 
est symptom of astonishment — his manner had been 
particularly guarded and sedate — but the sight of 
so many fine things at once threw his decorum off 
the balance, and caused him for the moment to for- 
get what he owed to himself in the presence of so 
large an assembly. Putting his thumb between his 
teeth, and opening his eyes to their utmost limits, he 
grinned like a school boy at the sight of ginger- 
bread, patting his breast, and exclaiming repeatedly, 



HO 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XII. 



"Monanti, monanti, monanti; tanta, tanta, tan- 
ta!"* Having particularly brought to his notice that 
the device of an uplifted arm graspiDg a javelin, on 
the clasp of the great coat, referred to his extensive 
conquests,of which all the world had heard ; we plac- 
ed before him a suit of tartan sent by Mrs. Moffat, 
with a note which he requested me to read ; and hear- 
ing his own name, coupled with that of Ma Mary, 
as he termed that lady, and the word tumerisho (com- 
pliments) he grinned again, clapped me familiarly on 
the back, and exclaiming as before " tanta, tcnda, 
tanta!" He now rose abruptly, big with some great 
conception, and made signs to the Parsee to approach 
and assist him on with the coat; habited in which 
he strutted several times up and down, viewing his 
grotesque figure in the glass with evident self-ap- 
plause. He then desired Mohanycom to put it on 
and turn about, that he might see if it fitted behind; 
and this knotty point settled to his unqualified satis- 
faction, he suddenly cast off his tails, and appearing 
in jmris naturalibus, commanded all hands to as- 
sist in the difficult undertaking of shaking him into 
the tartan trowsers. It was indeed no easy work 
to perform — but once accomplished, his Majesty cut 
a noble figure The Parsee wore a pair of red silk 
braces, which he presently demanded, observing that 



* Good, good, good; bravo, bravo, bravo ! 



Chap. XII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



111 



they would supply the place of those that Mrs. Mcf- 
fat had forgotten to send. Shortly after this, he 
directed an attendant, who was crouching at his feet, 
to take every thing to his kraal; and resuming his 
solemnity and his seat, tea was brought in. A 
number of gourds filled with ouichualla or beer, 
were placed by the King's orders before the assembly, 
who, passing them from one to the other emp- 
tied them on the spot. Richardson and myself drank 
tea out of two battered plated goblets, whilst the 
King's mess was served in a flowered china bowl, 
as being a more attractive vessel, and less likely to 
retain the heat; but having eyed the different drink- 
ing cups for some time suspiciously, he handed his 
own to his attendants, and then extending his arm 
abruptly seized upon my goblet, and greedily drained 
the contents. It is well known that savages, however 
debased they may be in the scale of humanity, are 
keenly susceptible of indignity; and he either con- 
sidered himself slighted, or had prudently determin- 
ed, until we should become better acquainted, to taste 
nothing of which we had not in the first instance 
partaken ourselves. 

It was now time to allude to our affairs, and hav* 
ing repeated that our principal object in coming into 
his country, was to make his acquaintance, we pro- 
ceeded to ask permission to hunt Elephants. This 
request was readily granted: but on stating that 



112 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XII. 



we had little time, and should wish to return to the 
colony by a nearer route than the one we had come, 
he shook his head and gravely remarked that there 
was no other road. As this reply passed through An- 
dries, he became dreadfully agitated, and opening both 
eyes, he stuttered forth with a vehemence of manner, 
which drew upon him the attention of the whole 
assembly, that the King never would consent to let 
any person depart by the Vaal river, and that we 
should all have our throats cut if we hinted further at 
such an arrangement! At this moment however the 
opportune return of a messenger, gave a fortunate 
turn to the conversation. The King had sent for his 
dress of state, that we might have an opportunity of 
admiring the matchless taste with which he had ar- 
ranged some materials that had been presented to him, 
by Sir Benjamin D'Urban. It was an apron com- 
posed of black goat skin streamers, loaded with beads 
of every size and color, and with a profusion of 
brass chains and ornaments disposed in an end- 
less variety of patterns that did ample honor to his 
inventive genius. 

The production of this article led the King to 
enquire after the health of our most gracious Sove- 
reign, of whom he said he had heard, and whom he 
declared to be next to himself the greatest monarch 
in the universe, adding that the white King's nation 
was undoubtedly second to his own in power. The 



Chap. XII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



113 



dialogue proceeded very slowly, in consequence of 
the necessity of its being conducted through the 
tiresome medium of four different languages. An- 
dries did not perform his duties with much regularity, 
and seemed to consider, that the colloquy was intend- 
ed for his own instead of for our edification. Under 
this delusion, he fancied that he had accquitted him- 
self of the obligation we had imposed, if he favored 
us with an occasional scrap. The King sometimes 
understood what Baba said in Bechuana to Mohany- 
com, nodding his head graciously, smiling, and re- 
peating "tanta tanta tanta." At length the con- 
versation flagged. Directing a sheep and sundry 
calabashes of beer to be placed before us, the des- 
pot arose, and abruptly without the slightest compli- 
ment, made his exit amid the congratulations of his 
loyal subjects. The heralds preceding him as be- 
fore, rent the air with shouts and acclamations, until 
"the great black one" had re-entered his kraal. 

During this serious yet laughable interview, we 
were not a little surprised to observe that the guides, 
who had by their freedom rendered themselves so 
highly offensive to us, continued bruising and snuff- 
ing tobacco, without appearing the least abashed 
in the royal presence. Whilst every one else cring- 
ed beneath the tyrant's glance with obsequious hu- 
mility, they alone appeared at ease? nor were we 
able to account for this behaviour, otherwise than by 

15 



114 



EXPEDITION, &c 



[Chap. XII. 



conjecturing that their too palpable office of spies up- 
on our actions admitted them to these liberties. They 
had never quitted the waggons for a single instant 
since we left Mosega, had watched all our actions 
with the most provoking attention, and on our arri- 
val at Kapain, had doubtless reported to the King 
every, the most minute, circumstance that had trans- 
pired. 



115 



CHAPTER XIII. 



RESIDENCE AT KAPAIN. 

We were shortly afterwards visited by the King 
without either pageant or ceremony. This he con- 
sidered a confidential interview, and said he had 
come "to see what we had got for him/' The 
weather being cold, he was attired in a handsome 
black leathern mantle ; its ample folds reaching to 
his heels, well became his tall and manly person; and 
he looked the very beau ideal of an African Chief. 
He had completely thrown aside that reserve and 
gravity, which in a public assembly he had conceived 
most becoming, and now appeared in high good hu- 
mour, joking, laughing, and familiarly pulling our 
beards, of which the luxuriant growth elicited his ad- 
miration and surprise. He frequently asked us how 
many wives we had, and whether they also had beards. 
We thought this an auspicious moment, in which 
to revert to the subject of our desired exit by the 
Vaal river, but took especial care to exclude Andries 
from the conference. Besides being a bad interpre- 
ter, we had seen that he was personally opposed to the 
measure, and we consequently preferred Richard* 



116 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIII. 



who had now recovered his self possession, and was 
a much more impartial dragoman. 

Arrowsmith's map of Africa having been produced, 
we placed a finger upon Graaff Reinet, Kuruman, and 
Mosega, explaining to the King, how many days 
journey would be saved, if we were to return to the 
Colony by the Vaal river. He shook his head as 
before, and petulantly observed, that he had already 
said there was no road through that country. We 
laughed, and expressed a wish to look for one ; but 
he rejoined that his anxiety for our safety would not 
allow him to hear of our travelling in that direction, 
— that should any accident befal us, the white King 
would undoubtedly attribute blame to him, and he 
therefore, must insist upon our giving up the inten- 
tion. Through this flimsy veil however, we could 
distinguish motives that were in no way connected 
with our safety. The Chieftain was naturally de- 
sirous of concealing, as far as possible, the havoc 
that his people had made amongst the Emigrant 
Farmers ; and he was above all things, anxious to 
obtain further presents on our return from the inte- 
rior. We saw the necessity of waiving the subject 
for the present, but secretly determined to attack 
him anon with his own weapons. 

He soon became extremely eager to have a sight 
of our various wares, but we steadily resisted his 
teasing importunities to examine the contents of the 



Chap. XIII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



117 



boxes. Knowing that all savages possess the sor- 
did passion of avarice in an extraordinary degree, 
and have the insatiate desire of accumulating prop- 
erty for the mere pleasure of possessing it, we had 
omitted no precaution to keep His Majesty in pro- 
found ignorance of the nature and extent of our sup- 
plies. To have permitted him to see the contents of 
the waggons, would most assuredly have tempt- 
ed him to practise every unfair and extortion- 
ate stratagem to obtain possession of them. We 
only therefore placed in his way, as baits, those trin- 
kets that we designed he should take, and these as 
well as every thing else that met his eye, he never 
failed to appropriate. A pair of my shoes having 
been casually exposed, though much too small, were 
instantly seized and donned, and the operation of 
trying them on was highly diverting. A silken 
waist cord was quickly transferred from my Indian 
sleeping drawers to his owm neck, the tassels dang- 
ling in front; a red woollen night cap was drawn 
over his bald pate, and a comforter ever his shoul- 
ders, and he repeatedly desired the interpreters to 
explain that "he liked all and every thing! " He 
crawled through the waggons, and diligently rum- 
maged in every corner for beads, of which he fre- 
quently spoke. On this most important topic with 
all savages, he was particularly urgent; he said he 
liked every color and size, sending at the same time 



118 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIII. 



to his seraglio for a vast variety, that we might dis- 
tinctly comprehend his wishes on the subject. With 
the greatest reluctance, he at last prevailed upon 
himself to part with a single grain of each color, 
as a sample to guide our selection when we should 
next visit him, and having gained this victory over 
his niggard nature, he repeated several times signi- 
ficantly, that we " now knew exactly what he want- 
ed." The visit was a very long one: the King 
begged that we would publish to the traders in the 
Colony, his anxiety to obtain musquets and ammu- 
nition in barter for Elephants teeth. He spoke also 
on various subjects that interested him, particularly 
respecting the productions of the white men's country. 
His eyes had repeatedly wandered towards, and lat- 
terly been rivetted upon a coil of brass wire, a por- 
tion of which protruded from the waggon, and be- 
fore quitting us he darted suddenly upon it, grinning 
with triumph, and bearing it along with him, with 
the greatest exultation. 

In the evening, as his numerous herds of cattle 
were returning from pasture, the King gave us a 
proof of the munificence of his nature, by selecting 
two of the worst oxen and a toothless cow, of which 
he begged our acceptance. We had repeatedly in- 
troduced the subject of cattle, bringing to his no- 
tice, the miserable condition of our own teams, and 
hinting an expectation that he would recruit them. 



Chap. XIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



119 



He had always replied with great readiness that they 
would soon get fat, as there was abundance of grass 
and water in the country to which we were journey- 
ing; but we were certainly not prepared for so un- 
equivocal a specimen of the Royal bounty. About 
dark he sent to borrow some wax candles, at the 
same time sending by Um'Nombate the stewed 
breast of an ox, and a supply of beer. We request- 
ed the old man to honor us with his company, which 
he readily did, emptying his plate faster than we 
could fill it, and swallowing at a draught the con- 
tents of a whole calabash of the native malt liquor* 
This detestable beverage, which is denominated out- 
chualla, is of a whitish color, frothy, and produced 
from fermented Kafir corn, Moselekatse avowed 
himself an ardent admirer of it, and we understood 
frequently drank it to intoxication. Out of compli- 
ment to him I partook of it, but found it very un- 
palatable. The Hottentots averred that it was not 
stronger than water, but they invariably talked more 
at length and louder after drinking it, and Claas was 
lying the whole day under a bush^ sealed in a tor- 
por induced by the potations of it he had swallowed. 
Long files of women, singing as they walked, were 
constantly to be seen arriving from the adjacent 
kraals, with bowls of this nectar upon their heads ; 
and our guides were ready recipients for any quan- 
tity that might be sent for our consumption, loudly 
in their cups shouting the praises of the King. 



120 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIII. 



The full moon rose in cloudless beauty, rendering 
the night nearly as light as day. We had been a 
short time in bed when Um'Nombate aroused me 
stealthily, offering me an Elephant's tooth in ex- 
change for beads, and assuring me that the King 
should never know of the transaction. We were 
too well acquainted with Moselekatse's character 
to be lured by Um'Nombate's proposal, and never 
doubting that he was a mere tool in the hands of 
the King, dismissed him without ceremony, appriz- 
ing him that we could make no exchange, except by 
His Majesty's order. The courtier retired discom- 
fited, and the result proved that we were not wrong 
in our conjecture. 

Shortly after day break, and almost before we had 
dressed, the despot himself was seen approaching 
with solemn step, accompanied by Um'Nombate, and 
a man bearing the identical Elephant's tusk on his 
shoulder. He was instantly surrounded by ten or 
twelve persons, who ran from a distance and crouch- 
ed before him. All this looked exceedingly ominous. 
We had heard of the execution of two culprits some 
time before, in presence of a trader, and were half 
afraid, that the old man having been detected in his 
delinquency by some of the spies about the waggons, 
was about to suffer condign punishment. The king 
seated himself upon a chair and looked mysterious ; 
Um'Nombate squatted himself upon the ground with 



Chap. XIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



121 



the dejected air of a criminal, and the rascally tooth 
was placed before them. We felt very uneasy, but 
pretended not to notice it, until His Majesty himself 
drew our attention to it, by kicking it with his foot, 
and observing that Um'Nombate wished to receive 
some beads in exchange for it. This speech, although 
bearing more the character of a demand than a re- 
quest, relieved our anxiety, but we replied that ivory 
was of no use to us, our oxen being quite unable to 
transport so heavy a commodity — that we were 
ready to barter beads, or indeed any thing we possess- 
ed for fat oxen, adding that if the King wished, we 
would gladly present a few beads to our friend Um- 
'Nombate, but begged to decline accepting the ivory. 
The King did wish this very particularly, and the 
beads were accordingly given, the tusk being, how- 
ever left on the ground, to give to the transaction the 
color of an equitable exchange. 

We very justly took credit to ourselves for the 
way in which we had brought this affair to so ami- 
cable a conclusion. It was now evident that Mosele- 
katse, as we suspected, had been privy to the whole 
transaction, and had availed himself of this pitiful 
stratagem to gratify his insatiate appetite for beads, 
and if possible to ascertain the extent of our resour- 
ces. The villain Andries was clearly in the King's 
confidence, and had doubtless given him all the in- 
formation in his power, and it is more than probable 3 

16 



122 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Uhap. XIII. 



that the realization of half a dozen bunches of beads, 
by this paltry contemptible scheme, had afforded His 
Majesty infinitely greater gratification than he had 
been capable of deriving from the receipt of our 
liberal, and in his judgment no doubt, princely pres- 
ents. 

But we had soon an opportunity of turning this 
greediness to account, and dealing with the King in 
his own fashion. In order to avoid creating suspi- 
cion as to the object of our desired return by the Vaal 
river, we lost no opportunity of impressing upon him 
that our leave w T as limited, that we were not Colo- 
nial subjects, but that we had come in a ship from a 
far country of which the Parsee was a native. His 
Majesty frequently expressed amusemeut at his dress, 
remarking that he was a fine fellow to come so great 
a distance, and must not forget to make his tumer- 
isho to the Parsee King, enquiring if that Potentate 
too had a black beard, and wore a high turban — how 
many wives he had, &c. He even paid Nesserwan- 
jee the compliment of desiring to inspect his pocket 
knife with six blades, nippers, picker, and corkscrew 
complete, which, however, he forgot to return. We 
ever carefully abstained from making any allusion to 
the capture of Erasmus* waggons, or to the military 
proceedings against the emigrant Farmers. 

This morning messengers were seen running 
breathless with haste to acquaint the King with the 



Chap, XlIL] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



128 



success of Kalipi's attack. There was an unusual 
stir in consequence, and warriors were continually 
coming and going during the greater part of the day, 
The King appeared in high glee, but we carefully 
affected ignorance of all that was passing, and were 
thus gradually securing his confidence in the honor- 
able nature of our intentions, regarding which he had 
evidently been distrustful. In spite, however, of all 
we could do, our Hottentots were perpetually prying 
round the imperial kraal, and putting impertinent 
questions to persons about the waggons ; all which 
being scrupulously reported, had an exceedingly mis- 
chievous tendency, and caused us constant annoyance 
and anxiety. 



124 



CHAPTER XIV. 



RESIDENCE AT KAPAIN, CONTINUED. 

A desire to see something of the King's domestic 
economy, induced us repeatedly to ask permission to 
visit him, but he invariably replied that he had no 
place in which to receive us, and indeed he passed 
the greater part of his time in lounging on our beds, 
or in the tent. To day, 25th October, he was in un- 
usual spirits, in consequence of the success of his 
arms against the emigrants. We affected to be alarm- 
ed at the possibility of an attack from Dingaan whilst 
hunting elephants to the Eastward, but he ridiculed 
the idea, adding bitterly that Dingaan was a coward- 
ly rascal and not fit to live. We had observed him 
for some minutes plucking blades of grass from be- 
low his chair, apparently lost in thought, and at 
times scanning our countenances with great intense- 
ness ; when all of a sudden he exclaimed that he 
wanted our tent. This was the very opportunity we 
had been looking for ; we had foreseen that he would 
become enamoured of it, and had determined to 
make it the stepping stone to the attainment of our 
wishes. With affected indifference we accordingly 



Chap. XIV.] EXPEDITION, &c. 



125 



replied, that if he had determined that we should 
return by the circuitons route of Kuruman, we could 
not dispense with the accommodation the tent afford- 
ed ; but that if we could proceed by the Vaal river, 
it should be sent to him as soon as the hunting was 
over. The high road to his heart was gained ; his 
eyes twinkled, and after a moment's hesitation, he 
said that he had been thinking the matter over, and 
that we were at liberty to go wherever we pleased! 
Having made this gratifying announcement, the King 
withdrew. 

Our object was now accomplished, but the mis- 
creant Andries no sooner heard that his predic- 
tions had been falsified, than he industriously cir- 
culated a report that the Bushmen across the Vaal 
were so cruel and vindictive, that there was not the 
most remote probability of our regaining the Colony 
by that route ; and from that moment the fear of 
death by poisoned arrows, took the place of the das- 
tardly dread of the "great black one," whom our 
followers now pronounced to be a "very fine gentle- 
man." I need scarcely add that the despot's beer 
had no small effect in producing this revolution of 
sentiment. In about half an hour the King sent for 
the tent. This we had anticipated in the natural 
train of events, but in order to enhance the value 
of the bribe, we took the liberty of reminding him 
of the terms of the agreement, and declined to part 



126 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIV. 



with it until the hunting should be over, inwardly 
hoping that this ruse would hasten our dismissal, for 
which we were hourly becoming more anxious. 

The wealth of this barbarous sovereign may be 
said almost to consist in his innumerable droves of 
horned cattle. These are herded in various parts of 
the country, and furnish employment to a considera- 
ble portion of his lieges, who are precariously main- 
tained by his bounty, but depend chiefly for support 
upon their success in hunting. The deaths and 
casualties which occur amongst the oxen at differ- 
ent out stations are regularly reported, and we had 
an opportunity of seeing this frequently done during 
our visit. Running with all speed to within about 
fifty yards of the King, a warrior places his arms 
upon the ground, and assuming a subdued posture, 
with his head bowed to the dust, crawls within ear 
shot, when all those about the Royal person exclaim 
Haiyah! Haiyah! and the report is made in a rais- 
ed tone. This done, the soldier remains crouched a 
few seconds, his eyes bent on the ground, and if the 
King has no questions to ask, suddenly springs on 
his feet, exclaiming Haiyah! and runs back to his 
arms. 

Moselekatse frequently enquired about King Wil- 
liam's flocks and herds, asking if they were very 
extensive, a subject on which we could not enlighten 
him. He also spoke of our Sovereign's armies. The 



Chap. XIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



127 



King's own warriors, who were present, we could not 
but admire, although the despot described them as 
young unfleshed soldiers, who had not yet gained a 
name in arms. They were, generally speaking, tall 
and handsome ; clad with the usual tails, and the ad- 
dition of two long red feathers in the hair when it 
was unshorn, or a cluster of variegated white and 
black feathers from the Kingsfisher or Jay, falling 
gracefully so as to obscure one eye. They carried a 
short thrusting spear — a club of Rhinoceros horn^ 
which is thrown with unerring precision — and an 
elongated elliptical shield of ox hide, with the hair 
displayed. The size of this buckler is regulated by the 
stature of the warrior, reaching in all cases from the 
ground to his chin. A stick variously decorated 
at the ends is secured on the inner side, and two 
parallel strips of hide, differing in color from the 
shield are so interlaced as to traverse its whole length, 
imparting a striking effect to the accoutred warrior. 

Excepting those individuals of distinction by whom 
he was generally attended, no subjects, or "dogs" 
as he termed them, ever passed the Royal person 
without bending their bodies almost double, preserv- 
ing that obsequious posture several paces before and 
after passing. The King seldom moved without half 
a dozen Magnates in his train, the heralds howling 
at intervals, leaping about in imitation of some wild 
beast, and loudly praising "the noble Elephant." 



.128 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XIV. 



The usual answer to an order was "ya bo ba" "yes 
my father," and no one quitting or approaching 
the Presence, omitted to exclaim Haiyah! Any at- 
tempt to have taken the King's portrait openly, would 
probably have been attended with disastrous conse- 
quences, drawing being supposed to be connected 
with witchcraft, but I seized the first opportunity of 
giving His Majesty a sitting unobserved. I exhibit- 
ed several drawings of animals, and was surprised 
to find him so quick of apprehension. He instantly 
recognized them all, repeating the Matabili name. 
He enquired if we did not wish to visit the great lake 
in the interior, which he said we might easily do, as 
there had been plenty of rain, and he would send a 
Commando to take care of us. This was a very 
tempting offer, but we replied we were sadly pushed 
for time, and were afraid of displeasing the white 
King by overstaying our leave. He rejoined that he 
would take care and prevent any unpleasant con- 
sequences by sending the white King a message 
about us- 

This afternoon he was reclining on Richard- 
son's bed, when the well known sound of a box, 
which had imprudently been opened by the Parsee, 
drew his attention to the baggage waggon. He 
pricked his ears, hastily sprung from the bed, and, 
before the alarm could be given, had plunged both 
arms into the bead chest. Never shall I forget the 



Chap. XIV.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



129 



triumphant expression of his face at that moment. 
The lid having been closed upon his arras, his idols 
were hidden from his sight, but he consoled himself by 
feeling them, and conjecturing their color, grinning 
the while with exstacy, and, if so mild a term can 
express his manner of asking, requesting to have 
them all. We said that they were all we had left, and 
that they were brought expressly for him; but that 
we must be allowed to keep them until he granted 
us permission to depart, it being in our country the 
custom to make a present on taking leave of a great 
man. Looking eagerly at the beads, he exclaimed 
mooe, mooel monanti, monanti! tanta, tanta, 
tanta ! and added that although he deplored our de- 
parture yet trustworthy guides should be provided 
to conduct us on our journey early the following 
morning, pointing at the same time to the eastern 
horizon. This bargain being fully settled, His Ma- 
jesty marched off in triumph, a man before him 
carrying the box containing thirty pounds of blue 
and white beads* 

We were a little surprised at his having so readily 
consented to part with us, and were half afraid he 
might alter his mind before the morning. The de- 
sire of obtaining immediate possession of the beads 
without infringing appearances, had of course due 
weight with him; and there can be no doubt that he 
felt considerable uneasiness at our presence, now 

17 



130 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIV. 



that the return of Kalipi's Commando from the Vaal 
river drew so near. His anxiety to get rid of our- 
selves therefore overcame the reluctance he felt at 
parting with the small remnant of our property which 
had escaped his too successful forays. It was the 
expected return of the Commando too, that rendered 
him so anxious to send us to the great Lake, or in- 
deed in any direction but that in which we were bent 
on proceeding. We had every inclination to avail 
ourselves of this most tempting offer, but our leave 
from India being limited, it would have been impru- 
dent to have undertaken this journey, which might 
have detained us beyond the desert until the next 
rainy season. And although every other circumstance 
conspired to favor the project, and by smoothing the 
path to render it probable that two " poor Indian 
gentlemen*' could have achieved so desirable and 
arduous an undertaking, we were yet compelled to 
sacrifice to circumstances our thirst for geographical 
discovery beyond the tropic of Capricorn. 

In order that there might be no excuse for delay- 
ing our departure, we sent Baba in the afternoon, to 
ask the King's permission to pitch the "house " in 
his kraal. He was taking a siesta in Mr. Bain's 
waggon, but came out immediately in high spirits, 
and pointed out the spot upon which he had deter- 
mined that it should be erected. Whilst this was 
being done, I had an opportunity of leisurely examin- 



Chap. XIV. } SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



131 



ingthe imperial kraal. The plan of the enclosure 
was circular, a thick and high thorn fence surround- 
ing an area which was strewed with the sculls, paws, 
and tails of Lions, some of them quite fresh, others 
bleached by long exposure to the sun. Below the 
waggon I observed a file of old muskets, probably 
some that had been taken on the defeat of Barend's 
Griquas in 1831. The Royal lodge, and the apart- 
ments of the ladies, were shut off by a rough irregu- 
lar palisade; and a portion of this enclosure was sur- 
rounded by a very closely woven wattle fence, hav- 
ing only one aperture of barely sufficient dimensions 
to admit the King's portly person upon all fours. The 
space was smeared with a mixture of mud and cow 
dung, resembling that used in all parts of India for 
similar purposes. In the centre stood a circular, 
plumpudding shaped hut, about twelve feet in diame- 
ter, and perhaps four in length, substantially thatched 
with rush matting. A low step led up to the entrance, 
which was very confined and provided with a slid- 
ing wicket. The floor was sunk to the depth of 
three feet below the surface of the ground, and two 
more steps led down to it. The furniture consisted 
exclusively of calabashes of beer ranged round the 
wall. 

Thirty ladies only of the imperial seraglio were 
present on this eventful occasion, and they remained 
standing round the King who was seated in the open 



132 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIV. 



air. They were generally swarthy and somewhat 
en-bon-point. Many were even obese, with enor- 
mous pendant bosoms, and their heads were shaved, 
a small tuft of hair only being left on the crown, 
which was decorated with feathers. Their dresses 
consisted of short black kilts of leather, the fur worn 
inside, and the outside rubbed with some hard sub- 
stance and charcoal until it had acquired the ap- 
pearance of black clotted wool. These were stud- 
ded with brass ornaments and a profusion of beads 
of divers colors ; they had besides a vast accumula- 
tion of these ornaments upon their bodies. Some 
wore blue from top to toe, others were enveloped in 
one mass of red, the endless variety of patterns in 
which they were disposed, having doubtless emanated 
from the inventive brain and prolific fancy of His 
Majesty, a large portion of whose valuable time is 
passed in devising and superintending the construc- 
tion of ornaments for the Harem. 

Amongst the ladies, I observed a captive Gri- 
qua, called Truey. This is the familiar name for 
Gertrude. She is the unfortunate daughter of Peter 
Davids, Chief of the Bechuana Bastards, and succes- 
sor to Barend Barends. This Chief had, about three 
years before, undertaken a hunting expedition to the 
Vaal river, and in the natural course of events was 
attacked by a party of Moselekatse's warriors who 
were scouring the country in that direction; he 



Chap. XIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



133 



narrowly escaped with his life, but the whole of his 
property was carried off, and his nephew and daugh- 
ter were taken prisoners. 

When the tent was nearly pitched, the King sud- 
denly changed his mind, and resolved to have it im- 
mediately in front of the palace door. In order to 
accomplish this, it became necessary to remove a 
portion of the wattle fence — a work of considerable 
labour, in the progress of which outchualla was 
liberally circulated to the perspiring Hottentots. It 
was about three o'clock and the pavilion had reared 
its head a second time. A bright thought then sud- 
denly crossed the Royal mind. Investing himself 
with the duffel great coat, placing a red night cap 
on his head, and commanding two wax candles to be 
lighted and placed before him, he seated himself with 
a dignified deportment upon an inverted calabash, the 
contents of which he had previously swallowed, and 
became totally absorbed in the contemplation of his 
surpassing importance. It was with difficulty that 
I preserved my gravity, and having hastily compli- 
mented the King on his accession of property, and 
reminded him of our wish to leave the following day, 
I left him to his domestic enjoyments. 

In the evening Truey brought a dish of stewed beef 
from the King. Despite of our assertions to the 
contrary he could not help suspecting that we still 
had beads in our possession, and thought that the 



134 



EXPEDITION, &c. 



[Chap. XIV. 



Griqua maid might find means of inducing us to 
part with some more before we departed. The poor 
girl shed tears when she heard spoken the language 
of her tribe, and begged us to convey to her father, 
should we see him, the intelligence of her safety and 
that of her cousin Wilhelm, who had been sent to a 
distant kraal, the day before our arrival, in charge 
of a waggon containing two Dutch girls, prisoners 
of war, of whose presence the King was anxious 
that we should if possible be kept in ignorance. She 
had herself resided for some time at the kraal in 
question with the King, who is in the habit of pass- 
ing several months of the year there with one hun- 
dred of his wives, all of whom are decorated with bead 
dresses of the nature I have described. Every fe- 
male married or single is at his command ; his sub- 
jects not having it in their power to call even their 
wives their own. The King alone is rich — his sub- 
jects are all equally poor, and can be said to possess 
nothing in the shape of property beyond the sk inc 
with which nature has clothed them, — 

" And that small model of the barren earth 
Which serves as paste and cover to their bones." 



135 



CHAPTER XV. 



DEPARTURE FROM KAPAIN, AND ARRIVAL AT THE 
MARIQUA RIVER. 

We had been some time ready to depart on the 
morning of the 26th October, ere the King made 
his appearance. This he at length did, limping, and 
attended by the whole of his court. Andries, ever 
ready to create mischief, lost no time in spreading a 
report, that he had overheard the discussions at a 
council held the preceding evening, when it had been 
determined to revoke the permission granted us to 
depart by the Vaal river — a measure to which min- 
isters were very averse. The chairs having been 
put away in the waggons, we conducted the King to 
his old seat on Richardson's bed. In the act of 
ascending to this post of honor, having to climb 
over the chest which contained my wardrobe, he 
opened it eagerly, and darting his hand into the med- 
ley, triumphantly clawed up a pair of thick shooting 
shoes, which, unfortunately fitting him exactly, I was 
compelled to make a sacrifice of at the risk of re- 
turning bare footed to the Colony. He now stated 
for our information, that his lameness had been occa- 
sioned by the tightness of the shoes he had taken the 



136 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XV. 



preceding day, and obstinately worn until they had 
raised large blisters on the Royal heels. Having de- 
sired an attendant to advance with a very handsome 
Weasel skin cloak, which I had seen him wearing the 
day before in the kraal, he invested me with the 
greasy robe, saying that I looked very cold, and 
must keep it as a token of his friendship. A simi- 
lar speech to Richardson was accompanied with a 
Leopard skin girdle. Determined not to be out-done 
in generosity, we presented him in return with a 
rich Persian carpet, which had formed the basis of 
my bedding. This being spread on the ground, had 
the desired effect of enticing him down from his seat, 
with the design of inspecting it narrowly, and we 
instantly gave orders to yoke the oxen, which had 
purposely been kept close to the waggons. 

Having informed his Majesty that we were ready 
to start, and the whips being cracked, he accom- 
panied us a considerable distance — at last stopping, 
and extending his hand when a general leave-tak- 
ing took place, the word fellow I fellow! fellow I be- 
ing repeated as before by each great man, the by- 
standers shouting Haiyah! He desired us to con- 
vey his tumerisho to the white King — to Sir Benja- 
min D' Urban, to whom he sent a special message — 
and to Dr. Smith, adding that Mohanycom would 
accompany us to the Vaal river — but that we must 
make haste back to the Colony, lest the Governor 



Chap. XV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



137 



should think that he had slain us. Upon my repeat- 
ing that I should shortly come again bringing for 
him a double poled tent, he replied that that "was 
mooe, rnooe, mood monanti, monanti, monanti! 
tanta, tanta, tanta! that we must bring him 
"every thing," and take care to visit him via Mr. 
Moffat's station, and not by the Vaal river, lest mis- 
chief should befal us by the way. 

We now paid and dismissed the interpreter, with 
a supply of provision for the road, and a note to Di\ 
Wilson thanking him for Baba's services, and in- 
forming him of the complete success of our negocia- 
tions with the King. Upon this point we had cer- 
tainly good reason to congratulate ourselves. Visit- 
ing this capricious savage as we had done, at an in- 
auspicious juncture, when he was embroiled with 
white men, and might not unreasonably have regard- 
ed us in the light of spies upon his land— a suspicion 
which the pusillanimous conduct of our Hottentots, 
and of Andries in particular, was calculated to in- 
spire and confirm — we had had throughout a diffi- 
cult and somewhat hazardous part to perform. The 
probabilities were in favor of our being detained, 
and were certainly greatly against our obtaining per- 
mission to make our exit by the hitherto proscribed 
route of the Vaal river, conducting as it would, di- 
rectly through the scene of his operations against 
the migratory Farmers; but by closing our eyes 

18 



138 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XV. 



upon passing events, and preserving throughout our 
intercourse with the despot, a firm, conciliatory, and 
confiding demeanor- — not only had we succeeded in 
convincing him of the honesty of our intentions — 
but now pursued our journey with every reason ta 
believe in the good faith of his professions towards 
ourselves. 

As we were now considered to be on terms of 
close intimacy with His Majesty, we had no danger 
whatever to apprehend from any of the native tribes, 
through whose territories we might have occasion to 
pass. All those that inhabit the country between 
the Vaal river and the tropic of Capricorn, were his 
tributaries, and the terror of his name filled the sur- 
rounding nations. None of his own subjects indeed 
would dare to refuse us assistance, without incurring 
the certainty of his summary vengeance. 

Our course, in order to reach the Cashan range 
of mountains, where it had been resolved that our 
operations against the Elephants should commence, 
was for the first three days a little to the Southward 
of East. Mohanycom, now armed to the teeth, had 
relinquished his appointment in the imperial house- 
hold for that of guide. He had received in our pres- 
ence, more than once, the most positive injunctions 
to accompany us wherever we pleased to go within 
the King's dominions, and not to return until he had 
safely conducted us to the Vaal rivers and he had 



Chap. XV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



139 



been further directed to obtain from one of the 
kraals on our route a subordinate Captain named 
Lingap, to assist in protecting us. Mohanycom 
having accompanied Um'Nombate, when that minis- 
ter visited the Colony under Dr. Smith's escort, (for 
the purpose of forming an alliance on the part of 
His Majesty with the Cape Government,) could un- 
derstand the general tenor of conversation held in 
Dutch, and could even express himself intelligibly. 
Andries could stutter tolerably in Bechuana, and pos- 
sessed a smattering of Zooloo, and we thus hoped 
to be able to proceed without the aid of a sworn in- 
terpreter. 

Owing to our unlocked for detention in the morn- 
ing, we were glad to halt for breakfast after an hour's 
travel. Our long and wearisome marches through 
a parched and sterile country, in the course of which, 
as will have been remarked, our cattle were fre- 
quently deprived of all sustenance for many hours,, 
had so reduced them in condition, that they could 
hardly support the weight of their own emaciated 
bodies. The last feed of corn was here divided 
amongst three of the horses that appeared most in 
need of it, the other half-starved wretches thrusting 
in their noses for a share, at a loss to understand 
why they should be excluded from so rare a feast. 

Shortly after leaving Kapain, we observed a 
dog with neatly trimmed ears and tail, following 



140 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XV. 



Mohanycom, who repeatedly endeavoured to drive 
him away, saying that he was the King's dog, and 
had been captured with Mr. Bain's waggons. Two 
messengers were speedily sent to bring back this pet, 
and His Majesty, unwilling to let slip so good an op- 
portunity of asking for something, had desired them 
on no account to return without a fresh supply of wax 
candles. Conceiving, however, that our compliance 
with this unreasonable request, would but lead to 
further exactions, we excused ourselves, sending in 
lieu a tin mould and a bundle of cotton wicks, with 
abundant compliments, and brief instructions in the 
art of manufacturing "tallows" from the fat of the 
Eland. 

Having thus freed ourselves from the duns, it was 
discovered that the oxen had gone off in search of 
water — not one of the Hottentots having thought 
proper to remain with them, although positively en- 
joined to do so. Three hours elapsed ere they were 
recovered, and before we had proceeded many miles, 
the sheep were missed. Andries being immediately 
sent back upon horseback, found Frederick lying un- 
der a bush in a state of stupefaction, the conse- 
quence of his frequent libations to the jolly god. 
The sheep as might have been expected, had availed 
themselves of his drowsiness to levant, but were tra- 
ced up and recovered. 

In spite of all these provoking delays, we contrived 



Chap. XV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 141 

early in the afternoon, to reach the Moriqua about 
thirty miles below the point whence it issues from 
the mountain chain. The approach to this small, 
but beautiful river, is picturesque in the highest 
degree. Emerging suddenly from an extensive wood 
of magnificent thorn trees, we passed a village sur- 
rounded by green corn fields, and then descended by 
a winding path into a lawn covered with a thick and 
verdant carpet of the richest grass, bounded by a 
deep and shady belt of the many stemmed acacia, 
which margined the river on either hand far as the 
view extended — and clothed with a vest of golden 
blossoms, diffusing a delicious and grateful odour 
around. Single Mokaalas, and detached clumps of 
slender Mimosas, hung with festoons of flowering 
creepers, heightened the effect, screening with their 
soft and feathery foliage considerable portions of 
the refreshing sward, across which troops of queru- 
lous Pintadoes and herds of graceful Pallahs * were 
to be seen hurrying from our approach. 

As we threaded the mazes of the parasol-topped 
acacias, which completely excluded the sun's rays, 
a peep of the river itself was unexpectedly obtained, 
A deep and shaded channel about twenty yards in 
breadth, with precipitous banks overgrown with 
reeds, was lined with an unbroken tier of willows. 
These extended their drooping branches so as nearly 



* Jlntilope Melampus, Delineated in the African Views. 



142 



EXPEDITION &c. 



[Chap. XV. 



to entwine, had they not been forbidden by the force 
of the crystal current, which swayed them with 
it as it foamed and. bubbled over the pebbly bottom. 
A plain on the opposite side, bounded by a low range 
of blue hills, was dotted over with Mokaala trees, 
beneath which troops of Gnoos, Sassaybys, and 
Hartebeests, were reposing. 

We drew up the waggons on a verdant spot on 
the river bank, at a convenient distance from an ex- 
tensive kraal constructed on the slope. Although 
the sun shone, the cold occasioned by a dry cutting 
wind, was scarcely to be endured even with the as- 
sistance of a great coat ; and the inhabitants being 
clamorous for food, I readily placed myself under 
the guidance of their chief with ten of his men, and 
diving into the heart of the extensive groves, soon 
furnished them with the carcase of a black Rhinoce- 
ros upon which to whet their appetites* This huge 
beast, which shall be hereafter described, crossed the 
river twice after being mortally wounded at duelling 
distance : and I was compelled, cold as it was, to 
wade after him, through water reaching to my mid- 
dle — following his trail by the blood, until from sin- 
gle drops, the traces became splashes of frothy crim- 
son. Struggling to force his tottering frame through 
the tangled cover, the wounded monster at length 
sank upon his knees, another bullet from the groov- 
ed bore ending his giant struggles, while he was 
yet tearing up the ground with his ponderous horn. 



143 



CHAPTER XVI. 



FROM THE MORIQUA RIVER TO TOLAAN, THE RESI- 
DENCE OF MOSELEKATSE'S SON. 

At day break the following morning, a large party 
of hungry savages, with four of the Hottentots on 
horseback, accompanied us across the river in search 
of Elands, which were reported to be numerous 
m the neighbourhood. We formed a long line, 
and having passed over a great extent of country, 
divided into two parties; Richardson keeping to 
the right, and myself to the left. Beginning to des- 
pair of success, I had shot a Hartebeest for the sava- 
ges, when an object which had repeatedly attracted 
my eye — but which I had as often persuaded myself 
was nothing more than the branchless stump of 
some withered tree, suddenly shifted its position, and 
the next moment I distinctly perceived that singular 
form, of which, the apparition had ofttimes visited my 
slumbers — but upon whose reality I now gazed for 
the first time. It passed rapidly among the trees, 
above the topmost branches of many of which its 
graceful bead nodded like some lofty pine — it was 
the stately, the long sought Giraffe. Putting spurs 
to ray horse, and directing the Hottentots to follow,, 



144 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XVI. 



I presently found myself half choked with excite- 
ment, rattling at the heels of the tallest of all the 
Mammiferes, whom thus to meet, free on his native 
plains, has fallen to the lot of few of the votaries of 
the chase. Sailing before me with incredible velo- 
city, his long swan-like neck keeping time to the 
eccentric motion of his stilt like legs— his ample 
black tail curled above his back, and whisking in 
ludicrous concert with the rocking of his dispropor- 
tioned frame, he glided gallantly along "like some 
tall ship upon the ocean's bosom," and seemed to 
leave whole leagues behind him at each stride. The 
ground was of the most treacherous description; a 
rotten black soil overgrown with long coarse grass, 
which concealed from view innumerable cracks and 
fissures that momentarily threatened to throw down 
my horse. For the first five minutes I rather lost 
than gained ground, and despairing, over such a 
country, of ever diminishing the distance, or improv- 
ing my acquaintance with this ogre in seven league 
boots, I dismounted, and had the satisfaction of hear- 
ing two balls tell roundly upon his plank-like stern. 
But I might as well have fired at a wall: he neither 
swerved from his course, nor slackened his pace, and 
had pushed on so far a head during the time I was 
reloading, that after remounting, I had some difficul- 
ty in even keeping sight of him amongst the trees. 
Closing again, however, I repeated the dose on the 



Chap. XVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



145 



other quarter, and spurred along my horse, ever and 
anon sinking to his fetlock ; the Giraffe now flagging 
at each stride, until, as I was coming up hand over 
hand, and success seemed certain, down I came 
headlong — my horse having fallen into a pit, and 
lodged, me close to an ostriches' nest, in which the 
old birds were sitting. 

There were no bones broken, but the violence of 
the shock had caused the lashings of my rifle to give 
way, and had doubled it in half — the barrels only 
now hanging to the stock by the trigger guard. No- 
thing dismayed by this heavy calamity, I remounted 
my jaded beast, and one more effort brought me 
ahead of my wearied victim, which stood still and al- 
lowed me to approach. In vain I attempted to bind 
my fractured rifle with a pocket handkerchief, in or- 
der to admit of my administering the coup de grace 
— it was so bent that the hammer could not by any 
means be brought down upon the nipple. In vain I 
looked around for a stone, and sought in every pock- 
et for my knife, with which to strike the copper cap, 
and bring about ignition, or hamstring the colossal 
but harmless animal, by whose side I appeared the 
veriest pigmy in the creation — alas, I had lent it to 
the Hottentots to cut off the head of the Hartebeest. 
Vainly did I wait for the tardy and rebellious villains 
to come to my assistance, making the air ring, and 
my throat tingle, with reiterated shouts — not a soul 

19 



146 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVI. 



appeared — and, in few minutes, the Giraffe having 
recovered his wind, and being only slightly wounded 
in the hind quarters, shuffled his long legs — twisted 
his tail over his back — walked a few steps — then 
broke into a gallop, and diving into the mazes of the 
forest disappeared from my sight. Disappointed and 
annoyed, I returned towards the waggons, now eight 
miles distant, and on my way overtook the Hotten- 
tots, who, smoking their pipes, were leisurely return- 
ing, having come to the conclusion that " Sir could 
not catch the Cameel," for which reason they did not 
think it worth while to follow as I had directed. 

My defeat did not cause me to lose sight of the 
flesh pots. Any change from the monotony of an 
unvaried bread and meat diet being highly agreeable, 
I went back to the nest of the ostrich with a view 
of obtaining the eggs. So alarmed were the old 
birds by my unceremonious intrusion in the morning, 
that they had not returned. Twenty-three gigantic 
eggs were laid on the bare ground without either 
bush or grass to conceal them, or any attempt at a 
nest beyond a shallow concavity which had been 
scraped out with the feet. Having broken one, to 
ascertain if they were worth carrying home, a Hot- 
tentot took off his trowsers, in which, (the legs being 
first tied at the lower end,) the eggs were securely 
packed, and placed on the saddle. Although each 
*>f these enormous eggs are equivalent to twenty- 



Chap. XVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



147 



four of the domestic fowls', many of our followers 
could devour two at a single meal, first mixing the 
contents, and then broiling them in the shell. When 
dressed in more orthodox manner, we found them a 
highly palatable omelette. 

Richardson shortly returned, having been engaged 
in close conflict with a Rhinoceros. Aroused from a 
siesta by the smarting of a gun shot wound, the in- 
furiated animal had pursued his assailant so closely 
that it became necessary to discharge the second bar- 
rel into his mouth, an operation by which the stock 
was much disfigured. I employed the rest of the 
day in repairing my own weapon with the iron clamp 
of a box, binding it wkh a strip of green hide from 
the carcase of an Eland. 

There being no practicable road across the Mari- 
qua within several miles of our position, we were 
compelled on the 28th, to make one by paring down 
the steep banks: and even then, experienced great 
difficulty in towing our heavy vans to the opposite 
side by the united strength of the teams. The de- 
scent was almost perpendicular, requiring both wheels 
to be locked : the bed of the river, covered with 
loose stones, was too confined to admit of the oxen 
acting in concert : — and the current, straightened by 
the narrowness of the channel, was rapid and rose 
to the floors of the waggons. 

Shortly after we had crossed, a large mixed herd 



148 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVI. 



of Sassaybys and Quaggas, alarmed by the sudden 
appearance of our cavalcade, charged past me so 
close, that one of the latter fell at my feet at each 
discharge of the rifle. Several savages had followed 
us to obtain a supply of dried meat and assist in hunt- 
ing ; but although they were greatly delighted at this 
performance, it was not until an unwieldy white 
Rhinoceros * had bit the dust, that they were perfect- 
ly satisfied. Smacking their thick lips, patting their 
stomachs, and repeatedly exclaiming Chikore, Chick- 
ore, they pointed out this huge beast standing stupidly 
under the shade of a spreading acacia. I crept with- 
in thirty yards before firing, but it was not until he 
had received six two-ounce bullets behind the shoul- 
der that he yielded up the ghost — charging repeatedly 
with his snout almost touching the ground, in so 
clumsy a manner, that it was only necessary to step 
on one side to be perfectly safe. 

This grotesque looking animal, which in many 
points bears a ridiculous resemblance to the Ele- 
phant, is upwards of six feet high at the shoulder, 
its shapeless head exceeding four feet in length. It 
is the larger but less ferocious of the two species of 
African Rhinoceros, neither of which is clad in shell 
armour like their Asiatic brethren : they have in lieu, 
tough hides an inch and a half in thickness, of 
which the whips known at the Cape under the de- 

* Rhinoceros Simsus. Delineated in the African Views. 



Chap. XVI.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



149 



nomination of Sjamboks, are usually manufactured. 
Both have double horns : those of the black species 
are short, and sometimes nearly of equal length — 
whilst the anterior horn of the white Rhinoceros is 
upwards of three feet in length, the second being a 
mere excrescence. These animals may be readily 
approached within a few yards, against the wind, and 
being heavy and inert, their attacks are easily avoided. 

Rejoining the waggons to breakfast, we found many 
savages assembled from neighbouring kraals, clam- 
orous for snuff. One old lady inhaled it in large 
quantities and without wasting a single grain, by 
means of a long tube of wood, the ends of which 
were respectively applied to her nose and to the back 
of her hand on which the powder was placed. 

The country through which we passed this day 
was more thickly wooded than any we had seen since 
leaving Kurrichane : and I for the first time observed 
several pit falls constructed purposely for taking the 
Rhinoceros. They differed from others in being dug 
singly instead of in groups — very deep and large — ■ 
at the extremity of a narrow path cut through the 
bushes, and fenced outside with thorns — a sharp turn 
leading directly upon the trap, so that an unweildy 
animal being driven furiously down the avenue could 
have no chance of avoiding the snare. Many skulls 
and bones of these huge beasts were lying at the 
bottom of the sepulchres that had swallowed them 
up alive. 



150 



EXPEDITION &e. 



[Chap. XVI, 



After travelling upwards of fifteen miles, and pass- 
ing three or four very large kraals, we arrived at the 
Tolaan river, a deep, narrow, and rocky channel, 
containing several extensive pools — the hollowed 
banks bearing testimony to the depth and rapidity of 
the current at certain seasons. The bed was per- 
fectly dry where we crossed, but covered with huge 
fragments of granite, which threw the waggons 
from side to side with frightful violence — and, added 
to the almost perpendicular character of the banks, 
rendered to passage extremely perilous. We 
halted on an isthmus, formed by. a double bend 
of the river; a grove of large acacia trees proving 
an agreeable shelter, and rendering the spot delight- 
ful. Here we were visited by Moselekatse's son, an 
aristocratic and intelligent lad, fourteen or fifteen 
years of age. His dress consisted of the usual gir- 
dle with long fur streamers — and a chaplet of white 
beads bound about his forehead, to which were at- 
tached three tufts of clipped quills, resembling in 
size and shape the flower of the African marigold. 
A lad of his own age attended him. The blood of 
the despotic sire flowing in the veins of the heir ap- 
parent to the throne of the Matabili, his first step 
was to deprive Mohanycom of a clasp knife that we 
had given him, which he immediately hung about his 
own neck, with a look of absolute superiority hardly 
to be expected from such a youth. 



151 



CHAPTER XVII. 



THE MATABILT DESCRIBED — ARRIVAL AT THE RIVER 
SIMALAKATE. 

The history of the assassination of one of the 
Hottentot followers of Captains Sutton and Moultry, 
to which allusion was made in a former part of this 
narrative, is brief. Like most of his tribe, being un- 
able to keep his hands from picking and stealing, he 
purloined a musquet from the King's kraal; and, 
presuming also to aspire to the affections of Truey, 
Moselekatse's favorite concubine, his body was one 
morning picked up pierced with assagais. A boy 
belonging also to one of those gentlemen disappear- 
ed about the same time, but his fate and his crime 
remained equally veiled in obscurity. 

The death of the trader Gibson, which formed 
one of the reasons adduced by the worthy Missiona- 
ries at Mosega to dissuade us from prosecuting our 
journey, was caused by the insalubrious climate of the 
country bordering on the sea coast. It is the inva- 
riable policy of all African Chiefs, to deter travellers 
from visiting tribes residing beyond them, by exag- 
gerated representations of peril, hoping by these 
means to effect a monopoly of traffic. Gibson had 



152 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVII. 



long been engaged in trading speculations, and in 
hunting Elephants, amongst the tribes in the interior; 
and tempted by the prospect of gain, penetrated in 
opposition to the advice of Moselekatse amongst the 
Babariri considerably to the Northwest of Delagoa 
Bay. There, the whole party, one Hottentot only 
excepted, was cut off by fever. The report of this 
event reaching Moselekatse, who, whatever his vices 
may be, is yet extremely anxious to produce impres- 
sions favorable to himself amongst the white people, 
he immediately despatched a Commando with direc- 
tions to bring the survivor, who had taken refuge 
with a hostile tribe, alive — in order that by his tes- 
timony he might clear himself from all suspicion of 
murder. Ignorant of the intentions of the Com- 
mando, and alarmed for his own safety, the Hotten- 
tot resisted, and being slain in the attack, his head 
was laid at the feet of the King. The despot how- 
ever, far from being pleased with the zeal shown by 
his warriors, ordered four of the principal of them 
to be put to death, on the ground that they had 
merely brought him a lifeless head instead of the 
living person as he had commanded. 

Notwithstanding such acts of cruelty on the part 
of the tyrant, the devotion of the Matibili warriors 
to his commands almost exceeds belief. No soldier 
dares present himself to Moselekatse who has been 
wounded in an ignoble part, or has failed to execute 



Chap. XVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 153 



his duty to the very letter. If a lion attacks his 
herds, either his death, or that of their guardians 
invariably ensues. Armed only with assegais and 
shields, they rush in upon the marauder, and gene- 
rally at the expense of one or two of their lives, 
which are held of no account, retire from the con- 
flict, bearing with them his head and feet to their Roy- 
al master. These are left to decompose within the 
fence of the imperial kraal, which, as I have already 
explained, is strewed with the bones of wild animals. 
War is the prevailing passion of the Matabili; they 
burn with an insatiate thirst for the blood of their 
enemies, of whom they cannot even speak without 
assuming an aspect of vengeance and fury. They 
are doubtless the stoutest soldiers in Southern Africa, 
not excepting the more disciplined troops of the Zoo- 
loo tyrant, from whom they deserted, and whose in- 
vading armies they have thrice routed in a pitched 
battle with terrible slaughter. 

To be fat is the greatest of all crimes, no person 
being allowed that privilege but the King. Speak- 
ing evil of the King, or alluding to the heir apparent, 
are considered equivalent to treason, or compass- 
ing the death of the Sovereign in Britain. Neg- 
lecting his cattle is reckoned a capital crime, the 
execution following upon the sentence, from which 
there is no appeal, 66 quick as the thunderbolt pur- 
sues the flash. " 

20 



154 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVII. 



It is not permitted to a subject to allude to the 
Elephant in presence of the despot; "The noble 
Elephant" being one of his titles. When speaking 
of hunting that animal, Moselekatse frequently urg- 
ed us to instruct some of his warriors in our meth- 
od, but as his people can neither ride nor be per- 
suaded to fire a gun, it was impossible to comply 
with his request. Accustomed from childhood to 
the use of the assegai or javelin, without which the 
Matabili never quits his home, they are expert 
in the destruction of the Elephant; hemming him 
into a defile, they attack him with great intre- 
pidity, and not unfrequently incur the utmost effects of 
his rage and fury. Occasionally also, they assail the 
Rhinoceros, but this inert animal is more usually en- 
snared in the pitfalls already described, which are 
generally provided with a sharp stake at the bottom, 
on which he is impaled. 

The Matabili possess no horses ; all those that have 
been from time to time taken from the Griquas and 
other tribes, with whom they have been engaged in 
war, have been carried off by the Distemper, as it 
is called, a fatal murrain, which sometimes extends 
itself to the oxen, over every part of Southern Africa 
during the early months of the year. The ravages 
of this disease, which is said to be an affection of the 
lungs, are supposed to be occasioned by the young 
grass which springs up after the first rain; and at 



Chap. XVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



155 



these seasons, the Colonists who can send their hor- 
ses into the more elevated districts, are able generally 
to preserve them. 

The attempts of our friends at equitation drill, and 
horsemanship, were ludicrous and awkward in the 
extreme. Although active, muscular and agile in 
a wonderful degree, they tumbled olf the horse as 
fast as they ascended, notwithstanding that the sad- 
dle, bridle, mane, and even tail were unceremoni- 
ously pressed into the service. 

Although a soldier of fortune who has gained all 
his glory and power in the field, Moselekatse has now 
ceased to lead his armies to battle ; but he still honors 
with his presence, the great hunting expeditions which 
frequently take place. On these occasions he is 
attended by a retinue of several thousand men, who 
extend themselves in a circle, enclosing many miles 
of country, and gradually converging so as to bring 
incredible numbers of wild animals within a small 
focus, Still advancing, the ring at length becomes a 
thick and continuous line of men, hemming in the 
game on all sides, which, in desperate efforts to es- 
cape, displays the most daring and dangerous exhibi- 
tion of sport that can be conceived. As the scene 
* closes, the spears of the warriors deal death around 
them, affording a picture thrilling to the sportsman, 
and striking in the extreme. 



156 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVII. 



The dexterity of the Matabili in the use of the 
knob-stick is also wonderful ; they rarely miss a par- 
tridge or a guinea fowl on the wing, and knock over 
hares, cats, and other ground game with equal pre- 
cision. In a nation such as I have described, it will 
be readily conceived that agriculture is not in high 
repute, and accordingly excepting for the grain used 
in making beer, I saw little attempt at cultivation. 
A few melons, rather deserving the name of vegeta- 
bles, were the only fruit we met with, and these 
I presume are nurtured chiefly for the gourd, which 
becomes their calabash or water flagon. We could 
hear of no funeral ceremonies amongst them. High 
and low, their bodies are thrown forth upon the plain, 
soon after life departs, a prey to wild beasts; the , 
flap of the Eagle's wing and the howl of the Hyaena 
being their only death note. In the Zooloo tribe 
however, from which Moselekatse has sprung, some 
respect is shown to the memory of Eoyalty, and per- 
sons of high distinction ; the defunct dignitary being 
interred within the hut where he has expired or been 
assassinated. The marriage ceremonies of the Ma- 
tabili were exceedingly difficult to understand. Ac- 
ceptance or non-acceptance of a snuff-box on the part 
of the lady, indicates the success of her suitor, or the 
contrary: and it would seem that marriage has some- 
times altogether been prohibited amongst the Zoo- 
loos, or confined to men in advanced life. We were 



Chap. XVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



157 



informed that the issigoko, or ring, so often alluded 
to, indicated a married warrior; but to this rule there 
must be exceptions. Of the population of Moselekat- 
se's empire, I can form no correct estimate. The 
constant wars in which he is engaged, diminish the 
number of the males, but the women are exceedingly 
prolific. His standing army of warriors of his own 
tribe exceeds five thousand men, but numbers of the 
conquered nations swell his followers to a large 
amount, and are chiefly employed as guardians of his 
cattle, during the intervals of peace. 

On the 29th we took the field, accompanied by 
the whole of the male inhabitants of three kraals, in 
addition to those that had accompanied us from the 
Mariqua river. The country here is generally un- 
dulating, extensive mimosa groves occupying all the 
vallies, as well as the banks of the Tolaan river, 
which winds amongst them on its way to join the 
Mariqua. We had not proceeded many hundred 
yards before our progress was opposed by a Rhino- 
ceros, who looked defiance } but took the hints we 
gave him to get out of the way. Two fat Elands 
had been pointed out at the edge of the grove the 
moment before, one of which Richardson disposed of 
with little difficulty, but the other led me through all 
the intricacies of the grove to a wide plain on the 
opposite side, immediately on emerging upon which, 
the fugitive was prostrate at my feet in the middle of 



158 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVII. 



a troop of Giraffes,' who stooped their long necks, 
astounded at the intrusion, and in another moment 
were sailing away at their utmost speed. To 
have followed them upon my jaded horse would have 
been absurd, and I was afterwards unable to find 
them. Returning to the camp after killing several 
Elands and Rhinoceroses, besides other game, which 
the savages quickly took charge of, I was furiously 
charged by a herd of horned cattle, and my horse 
being much exhausted, I had no small difficulty in 
escaping their persecution. Objecting I presume to 
my garb or complexion, they pertinaciously pursued 
me through thickets and over ravines, regardless of 
the loud whistle of the herdsman to which they are 
usually very obedient. During the night, our camp 
was thrown into disorder by the intrusion of a 
Rhinoceros, which actually stood sometime between 
the waggons. 

Several hours diligent search the next day brought 
us upon a herd of twelve Cameleopards. We pur- 
sued them a considerable distance, and repeatedly 
wounded the largest, a gigantic male, probably eigh- 
teen feet in height; but our famished horses falling 
repeatedly into the numerous holes with which the 
ground was covered, we at length became convinced 
of the impossibility of humbling the lofty head of the 
Giraffe, until our steeds should have improved in con- 
dition upon the fine pasturage which now abounded. 



Chap. XVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 159 



The day was sultry and the glare distressing. To 
the North-eastward, the distant prospect was bounded 
by a range of blue mountains which we visited some 
weeks afterwards;' the whole of the extensive plain 
being sprinkled with huge Mokaala trees, mat rush- 
es, and thistles. Large herds of Elands were graz- 
ing amongst these, the host of savages by which we 
were attended quickly clearing away the carcases of 
those we slew, and then quarrelling for the entrails. 
I hope my reader has understood that these barba- 
rians generally devour the meat raw, although when 
at leisure they do not object to its being cooked. 
They usually seize a piece of the flesh by the teeth, 
cutting a large mouthfull of it with the assegai close 
to the lips, before masticating it, which they do with 
a loud sputter and noise. The meal being finished 
they never fail to wipe their hands on their bodies, 
and then being generally gorged they lay themselves 
down to repose— previously relaxing their leathern 
girdles, which are so contrived as to be readily ex- 
panded according to their girth. 

As the sun was setting, our friend the Rhinoceros 
imprudently appeared upon the bank of the river 
within pistol shot. Five balls were immediately 
lodged in his body, with which he retreated, and 
was picked up the following morning. 

Leaving the Tolaan river we passed between two 
ranges of hills, and travelled nearly Southeast, over 



160 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XVII. 



a rugged country, strewed with huge loose masses of 
stone, and thickly covered with low bush. To the 
right, extensive stone walls marked the site of a once 
flourishing Bamaliti town, now destroyed. At noon 
unyoked in a well watered valley, covered with turf 
and abundantly cultivated. Here 'Unchobe, the Cap- 
tain of an adjacent Matabili kraal paid us the com- 
pliment of climbing into the waggon, and of squat- 
ting himself without ceremony upon my bed, inviting 
his greasy vrow to do the same. The stench of this 
worthy couple was quite overpowering, but he w r as 
evidently considered by his countrymen as a person 
of consequence, being loaded with a profusion of 
beads and ornaments, amongst which we remarked 
a necklace composed of Spanish dollars, and a medal 
which had been struck in England in honor of the 
abolition of slavery. His hair, contrary to the custom 
of the Matabili, was matted with grease and sibilo, 
and his consort also was decorated with beads of va- 
rious colors, to the amount of at least thirty pounds 
weight. A crowd of women and girls assembled 
round the waggon, clamorous for snuff and tobacco, 
and afforded us much amusement by their insatiable 
curiosity and good humour. The looking glass, that 
never failing source of surprise and delight to un- 
civilized beings, produced more than its usual effect 
upon them, Forming a group of merry faces at the 
end of the waggon, and chattering to each other they 



Chap. XVH.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



161 



gazed incessantly at their reflected images, trying 
by pressing their hands behind the mirror to discover 
the cause of such a magical effect; covering their 
eyes, and peeping askance to see if their double 
selves imitated the action. Scarcely a less powerful 
impression was produced by some of my drawings of 
wild animals, which I exhibited to them. In India 
even educated natives are exceedingly slow in recog- 
nizing representations of objects, but these unsophis- 
ticated damsels instantly acknowledged the likenesses, 
by pronouncing the name of the quadruped in an 
animated manner, drawing the attention of their 
neighbours to the sight, The Matabili females are 
neither prepossessing nor engaging ° t they shave their 
heads in the manner already described, and wear a 
short leathern petticoat, which in most cases is their 
only covering, although they occasionally also have 
a flap of leather suspended from the neck. Their 
skin from being constantly lubricated with grease 
and fat, acquires a shining appearance and is of a 
dark brown color approaching to copper. Both sex- 
es occasionally employ themselves in sewing skins, 
an operation which is performed by means of a skew- 
er or awl, by which they pierce a hole, and afterwards 
introduce a thread composed of an animal's sinew, 
resembling our fiddle strings. Of this substance, 
which is also used to string beads upon, they are 
generally provided with a large supply suspended from 

21 



162 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XVII. 



the waist. So far as we remarked, the women ap- 
peared little oppressed with sensibility, although affec- 
tionate to their children : the latter wander almost in a 
state of perfect nudity until the age of puberty. All 
classes are equally devoted to tobacco, taken as snuff; 
and the plant is so precious that it is never used 
alone, but invariably adulterated with a due admix- 
ture of earth or sand. 

Late in the afternoon we halted on the banks of 
the Simalakate, a deep and tranquil stream, margined 
by reeds and rushes, affording- a ready covert for Li- 
ons, those fresh marks were every where visible in the 
neighbourhood. The day had been very sultry, and 
our two dogs, nearly blind from thirst, ran down the 
steep bank to the water's edge, into the very jaws of 
an enormous Alligator. One of them returned imme- 
diately in a state of great alarm. Suddenly a splash 
was heard, and bubbles of blood rising a minute af- 
ter, too truly told what had been the fate of his un- 
fortunate companion. Not content with depriving 
us of our valued fourfooted companion, the Alligators 
quitted their watery homes during the night, and eat 
up a portion of the leather of the waggon furniture, 
besides the shoes of our followers. These scaly 
monsters are very common in many of the African 
rivers, and this was not the only occasion on which 
we suffered from their ravages. We frequently kill- 
ed some of an immense size. 



Chap. XVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



168 



About sunset an unwieldy white Rhinoceros ap- 
proached the waggons evidently with hostile inten- 
tions. There being neither bush nor hollow to con- 
ceal my advance, I crawled towards him amongst 
the grass, and within forty yards fired two balls into 
him. He started, looked around for some object on 
which to wreak his vengeance, and actually charged 
up with his eye flashing fire to within an arm's length 
of me. Crouching low, however, I fortunately elud- 
ed his vengeance, and he soon afterwards dropped 
down dead. 

Thus far on our journey we had pursued a partially 
beaten track, dignified by the Hottentots in Colonial 
phraseology with the name of a road, though since 
leaving Kurrichane, it had consisted merely of the 
faint vestiges of the trader's waggons, which "few 
and far between " had traversed it — and even these 
could only be discovered by a practised eye. But from 
our entrance into the hills this morning, all traces 
had disappeared, nor did we again see the tracks of 
a waggon for several months, until we had crossed 
the river Vaal on our return to the Colony. Thus 
left to ourselves, matters resumed a smoother aspect, 
and the dread of Moselekatse appeared to have left 
the Hottentots, leaving behind it like an intermittent 
fever, an interval of tranquillity, which lasted for 
some time. 



104 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



MEETING WITH KALIPI'S COMMANDO, AND ARRIVAL 
AT THE CASHAN MOUNTAINS. 

The morning of the 1st November brought to light 
several parties of Matabili warriors on the opposite 
side of the river, escorting large droves of cattle to- 
wards Kapain, They appeared purposely avoiding 
us, but although we were unable to hold any com- 
munication with them, we felt convinced that they 
formed a part of Kalipi's Commando. After skirt- 
ing the deep sedgy channel of the Simalakate several 
miles, in quest of a ford, we arrived at a point where 
it takes a sudden bend to the Eastward, and, even at 
this season, falls with considerable violence over a 
stratum of granite, which forms a rough, but com- 
plete pavement. Across this stony drift we effected 
a passage, though not without sundry violent con- 
cussions, that bid fair to dislocate the joints of our 
heavy vehicles, and rendered necessary the precau- 
tion of removing the guns, and all brittle wares, dur- 
ing the trajet. 

We unyoked for breakfast in an extensive Mimosa 
grove, which rivalled in beauty all that we had 



Chap. XVIIL] 



EXPEDITION, fee. 



165 



hitherto seen. The airy parasol-shaped foliage was 
intertwined above our heads in such a manner as to 
be perfectly impervious to the sun's rays, the con- 
stant and delicious shade it afforded having induced 
the growth of a luxuriant carpet of grass, spangled 
with numerous gaudy flowers. Whilst the oxen 
were revelling in these sweets, I strolled down the 
river with my rifle in search of Riet Buck,* of which 
some had been seen in the morning. Here the scen- 
ery was beautiful. Three cascades fell over de- 
scents of several feet, within a quarter of a mile of 
each other, flanked by stately timber trees, of splen- 
did growth, and graceful foliage, which leaning their 
venerable forms over the limpid stream, were reflect- 
ed on its glassy bosom. Huge isolated masses of 
rocks reared their stupendous heads at intervals, as 
though cast there by some giant hand in sportive de- 
rision of the current, which foamed and bubbled 
around them. Upon the tops of these, Cormorants 
were sunning themselves in hundreds, whilst scaly 
Alligators were basking on the lower tiers amid flow- 
ering bushes and evergreens. Straggling hamlets 
were scattered along the banks, and near the ford 
I observed one constructed upon a raised platform, 
the only instance of attic architecture that occurred 
during my travels. The number of huts did not 



* Redunca Eleotragus, Delineated in the African Views 



166 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XVIII. 



exceed twenty, and they appeared to have been 
sometime uninhabited. 

We resumed our journey about noon. The route 
towards an opening in the mountains led us nearly 
due South, through an exceedingly rich and fruitful 
part of the country, abounding in verdant savannahs 
and hamlets, around which large herds of cattle 
were indulging in luxuriant pasture. These were 
tended by armed herdsmen, and we were at first sur- 
prised to observe the oxen leave their grazing, and 
flock around our waggons as they proceeded, snort- 
ing and exhibiting signs of pleasure, as though in 
recognition of objects with which they were familiar. 
The appearance shortly afterwards of several hun- 
dred Matabili warriors in their war costume explain- 
ed the riddle, and we knew that these must be some 
of the cattle taken from the unfortunate emigrants. 
Shortly before this, Mohanycom, our guide, had 
left the waggons, and proceeded to a kraal at some 
distance, for the purpose of communicating to 'Lin- 
gap, the subordinate Captain of whom I have before 
spoken, and who resided there, the King's orders that 
he should attach himself to our suite. The conse- 
quence of this ill judged proceeding was, that we 
were deprived of his services at the very moment 
when they were most required. The warriors not 
perceiving any of their own tribe with our party, 
and having had their hands so lately imbrued with 



Chap. XVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



167 



the blood of white men, could think of nothing but 
war and plunder. Suspecting, or rather hoping, that 
we had found means to enter the country without the 
King's knowledge, they closed round the waggons 
with every demonstration of hostility, accosting us 
with insolence, and peremptorily commanding the 
drivers to halt; several at the same time placing 
themselves in front to obstruct the passage* The 
Hottentots looked aghast, and Cosur de Lion, in a 
state of extreme agitation, fainted when he saw a 
number of wounded warriors borne past on the 
shields of their comrades, whilst others groaned un- 
der the weight of accoutrements that had been strip- 
ped from the bodies of the slain. 

Our situation was now critical — Andries whether 
from terror, or the disgust excited by his superces- 
sion at Kapain, showed no disposition to extricate 
us by an explanation of the true state of affairs-. 
No one else understood a word of the language. 
The crowd was fast encroaching upon us, and their 
pacific intentions becoming momentarily more ques- 
tionable. Some even clambered into the waggons, 
overhauling their contents, whilst others cast a 
longing eye at the oxen and sheep. The unhappy 
Andries was at length seized by a brawny savage, 
an event which proved highly favorable to us, for in 
his agony of distress at the supposed approach of 
death, he found his tongue, and stuttered out a brief 
intimation of our having been the honored guests of 



168 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap, XVIII. 



the King. The name of Moselekatse acted like 
magic on his followers. The barbarians were in- 
stantly appeased, and in a few seconds, were peti- 
tioning in an abject tone for snuff, beads, and tobac- 
co — allowing us to proceed on our way rejoicing. 

The warriors were all clad in their full costume, 
which was more complete than that I have already de- 
scribed, It consisted of a thick fur kilt called Urn- 
cooloobooloo, composed of treble rows of cats or 
monkeys tails descending nearly to the knee. A 
tippet formed of white cows' tails encircled the shoul- 
ders, and covered the upper part of the body, the 
knees, wrists, elbows, and ancles, being ornamented 
with a single ox tail fastened above the joint. Seve- 
ral of their shields bore marks of the recent conflict, 
being drilled with musquet balls, and the} 7 carried 
with them the arms of those who had perished, to 
place them at the foot of the King — having left the 
bodies of their comrades, as usual, a prey to vultures 
and hyaenas — for no funeral obsequies ever honor 
the deeds, or crown the devotion and bravery of a 
Matibili warrior. 

Nothing could be more savage, wild and martial, 
than the appearance presented by the barbarian ar- 
my returning to their despotic Sovereign, wreathed 
with laurels and laden with spoils. We continued 
to meet large straggling parties during the whole 
of the day, and could not have passed fewer than 
five or six thousand head of captured cattle. 



Chap. XVIII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



169 



Contrary to the practice of the Kafirs, the Mata- 
bili prefer attacking in open ground, rushing in at 
once upon their foes, striking their shields by way 
of intimidation, and stabbing with their short spears, 
of which a bundle of five or six is taken when going 
to war. So terrible is this mode of combat to the 
unwarlike Bechuana, that one Matabili champion 
is a match for fifty of them. In the late affair, how- 
ever, they received a severe lesson in the superiority 
of fire arms, of which, since the signal defeat of 
Barends' Griquas in 1831, Moselekatse had enter- 
tained a great contempt. Kalipi had found the emi- 
grant Farmers several days march to the Southward 
of the position they occupied when Erasmus' effects 
were captured. Being apprized of the approach of 
the barbarian horde, they had drawn up their wag- 
*gons in a close circle, fortifying the enclosure with 
thorn branches, and defending themselves so stoutly, 
that they beat off the assailants with terrible slaugh- 
ter, wounding Kalipi, and obliging him to retire 
from the conflict. Plunder is the principal object 
of all savage warfare, and although, fortunately for 
the cause of humanity, he failed in carrying into 
effect the orders of his incensed and blood-thirsty 
master, to massacre the males without quarter, spar- 
ing only the women and young girls that were cal- 
culated to grace the imperial seraglio — Kalipi had 
yet succeeded in the more lucrative object of his 

22 



170 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XVIII. 



expedition — he retired from the field of carnage, 
sweeping before him the whole of the flocks and herds 
of the emigrants, that were grazing in thousands upon 
the verdant plains of the Likwa, — leaving the late 
flourishing camp, an immoveable and shattered wreck 
in the wilderness. 

We soon descended into a fine valley in which 
were situated nine of Moselekatse's principal kraals, 
around which countless cattle were grazing. From 
one of these villages, the last Matabili station in this 
direction, we were rejoined by Mohanycom, who 
brought with him 'Lingap, the captain of our escort, 
and a whole host of ladies, who were desirous of 
ascertaining the quality of our "Irish blackguard/ ' 
They all saluted us with Dakha bono, Qui! " I see 
you ! give me some snuff !" Winding up a little ac- 
clivity we presently entered a grand and extensive- 
forest, with occasional open spots, which abounded 
to an incredible degree with Hartebeests, Sassabys, 
Gnoos, and Quaggas. Here too we saw the first 
traces of the Elephant — Mimosa trees torn up by the 
roots, and sturdy branches, which rent from the parent 
stock, overhung the path. Hundreds of deep holes 
impressed by the feet of these gigantic quadrupeds 
during some recent heavy rain, with heaps of fresh 
excrement, were every where to be seen. Andries, 
who thought every animal less than an Elephant be- 
neath his notice, now became frantic. Stopping the 



Chap. XVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



171 



waggon which he was leading, he waved his cap aloft, 
threw a mass of dung into the air, and huzzaed till 
he was hoarse. 

Arriving at the end of the forest w e again de- 
scended, and found ourselves under one of the se- 
condary ranges of the Cashan mountains, on the 
bank of the Bagobone river, where we halted in a 
meadow, having travelled twelve miles. Here again 
the scenery was wild and romantic. The mountains 
rose on either hand in bold majestic forms, clothed 
in parts with luxuriant verdure— their steep rocky 
sides besprinkled in others with occasional light 
bushes, which enlivened the rich and varied tints 
of the broken crags. Rugged cliffs margined the 
bubbling river and shut in the lower prospect, whilst 
the great range of the Cashan mountains towered 
. above them in the distance, their spiry blue summits 
appearing to us, who had for months seen nothing- 
larger than an ant hill, almost to rival the Alps in 
grandeur. 

Whilst the Hottentots were engaged in making 
a fence for the cattle, I entered one of the near- 
est groves, for the purpose of obtaining food for 
the people, and presently brought down a Water 
Buck,* a rare and splendid Antelope, which is not 

* Aigocerus Ellipsipryimius. Pelioeated in the African 
Views. 



172 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XVIII. 



to be met with until after crossing the Mariqua. 
The report of my rifle disturbed a Lion and Lioness 
from a bush close by, and they instantly slunk into 
the jungle. Having covered up the carcase with 
bushes, I returned to the waggons and found that 
Piet had already arrived with an abundant supply of 
Gnoo's flesh. He too had narrowly escaped stumb- 
ling over a Lion in long grass. These troublesome 
beasts appeared to be so numerous, that we made a 
more substantial fence than usual for the oxen, and 
had no reason to regret having taken the precaution ; 
as numbers were roaring and prowling round the camp 
towards morning, endeavoring to effect an entrance. 

Over the evening fire Lingap favored us with the 
particulars that he had been able to collect regarding 
the attack on the emigrant Farmers, extolling Kali- 
pi's bravery to the skies. Himself a warrior of tri- 
ed courage, he-had formed one of the Commando 
that captured Erasmus' waggons. His eyes glis- 
tened as he spoke of the pleasure he had derived 
from feeling his spear enter white flesh. It slipped 
in, he said, grasping his assegai and suiting the ac- 
tion to the word, so much more satisfactorily than 
into the tough hide of a black savage, that he pre- 
ferred sticking a Dutchman to eating the King's beef. 
When sufficiently sated with roast meat, and primed 
with snuff, he treated us to a love ditty, in the course 
of which he looked most killing, Both he and 



Chap. XVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



173 



Mohanycom were much elated at Kalipi's success, 
and as the evening advanced, being joined by a large 
party of friends, they all struck up a war chorus in 
praise of the King, which they continued until a late 
hour, howling and dancing until they were exhaust- 
ed. We could never arrive at any interpretation of 
their songs, and of this in particular, beyond what I 
have already given. Strange though it must appear, 
it is a fact that, whether from fear or superstition, 
the devotion of these savages to their tyrannic Chief- 
tain amounts to positive adoration. Present or ab- 
sent he absorbs all their praises, and is the only idol 
they worship. The following were the words repeat- 
ed with occasional transposition, ten thousand times. 

O Lilli bukalu, Bunka Baee 

O nwang-a-nu siibookana-shee. 

Ai bunka baee — Hibo, hi bo, hi bo bo-shee. 

Dancing served in the place of music, and was 
nothing more than an accompaniment to the song, 
of which the pathos and feeling were indicated by the 
contortions of the body, and by the various figures 
described with the hands in which they flourished a 
club of Rhinoceros' horn. The feet regulated the 
time, and imparted the locomotive effect in which 
they rejoice. At first they were slowly lifted, to de- 
scend again with a single or double stamp; and 
the sticks being gently clashed at the same mo- 
ment, the correspondence was both diverting and 



174 



EXPEDITION &c. 



[Chap. XVIII. 



striking. But as the performers warmed upon the 
exercise, their gesticulations became more and more 
diversified, vehement and energetic — leaping, strid- 
ing, vaulting, and running, they perpetually crossed 
each others' orbits, stabbing, parrying, thrusting, ad- 
vancing, and retreating, with so light a foot, and so 
rigid a muscle, that the eye could with difficulty fol- 
low the velocity of their motions; now darting to 
the right, and then as abruptly recoiling to the left, 
they brandished their sticks aloft, increasing in ve- 
hemence by each detour ; then vaulting several feet 
into the air, leaping, galloping, and charging, in 
pantomimic conflict, they made the ground resound 
under their feet, and raised a cloud of dust by the 
eagerness and rapidity of the exercise — until, foam- 
ing and frenzied by their tortuous movements, they 
fairly sank beneath the tempest which they had stir- 
red. To the bystander this scene conveyed all the 
reality of the wildest conflict of savage life; the 
darkness of the night, with the peculiar light shed 
over the features of the frantic group by the blazing 
fire, contributing greatly to heighten the impression 
it produced. In consequence of the absence of the 
warriors, we had not an opportunity of witnessing 
any of the great national dances in which the King 
himself acts a prominent part, but the effect of these 
public spectacles may be estimated by what I have 
described. 



175 



CHAPTER XIX. 



RHINOCEROS AND WILD BUFFALO HUNTING ALONG 
THE C A SHAN MOUNTAINS. 

Leaving the waggons to proceed to the ground 
where our operations against the Elephants were to 
commence, I went with 'Lingap to the carcase of 
the Antelope I concealed yesterday, near which I 
killed two females of the same species. I believe I 
may with safety assert that I am the only European 
that ever shot a Water Buck. It is about the size of 
an ass, and of somewhat browner colour. The hair 
is coarse, like that of the Indian Rusa Stag, and in 
texture resembles split whalebone. The appearance 
of the male animal is stately; the eyes are large and 
brilliant; the horns ponderous, three feet in length, 
white, ringed, and placed almost perpendicularly on 
the head, the points being curved to the front. A 
mane encircles the neck, and an elliptical white band, 
the tail, which is tufted at the extremity. The fe- 
male is similar, but hornless and rather smaller. 
The flesh of both is coarse, and so highly ill savoured 
that even savages are unable to eat it* On cutting 
off the head, the effluvia literally drove me from 
the spot. Mr. Stedman had the merit a few years 



178 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XIX. 



ago of bringing ibis Antelope under tbe observation 
of tbe scientific world, and Dr. Smitb brought down 
other two specimens with the late expedition. 

On the bank of the river I observed the perfect 
skeleton of an Elephant. Near to it 'Lingap sud- 
den]y stopped, and pointing with his assegai to a 
bush a few yards off, whispered {c Tao," and I imme- 
diately perceived three Lionesses asleep. Ensconc- 
ing himself behind his shield, he made signs to me 
to fire, which I did into the middle of the party, at 
the same moment springing behind a tree which com- 
pletely screened me. Thus unceremoniously awaken- 
ed, the three ladies broke covert, roaring in concert, 
and dashed into the thick bushes, while we walked 
as fast as possible in the opposite direction, In the 
course of a few minutes we heard several discharges 
of musquetry, and an infuriated Rhinoceros, stream- 
ing with blood, rushed over the brow of the eminence 
that we were ascending, and was within pistol shot 
before we were aware of his approach. No bush 
presenting itself behind which to hide, I threw my 
cap at him, and 'Lingap striking his shield and shout- 
ing with stentorian lungs, the enraged beast turned 
off. I saluted him from both barrels, and he was 
immediately afterward overturned by a running fire 
from the Hottentots, every one of whom I now saw 
had left the waggons at the mercy of the oxen, 
conduct for which we reprimanded them severely, 



Chap. XIX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



177 



threatening to withhold further supplies of ammuni- 
tion. 

Three hours travelling between two ranges of the 
Cashan mountains, brought us to the Ooli river, a 
pretty little stream, upon the further bank of which 
we halted. A party of savages joined us, having 
feasted heartily upon the Gnoo killed yesterday, and 
as we did not require their services we sent them to 
eat up the Rhinoceros, with injunctions to return in 
the evening. The banks of the Ooli are precipitous, 
and clothed with extensive mimosa groves, abound- 
ing with wild Buffaloes, Pallahs, and Guinea Fowl.* 
We made a large bag of the latter, and obtained a 
supply of Ostrich eggs. In order to drive the Ele- 
phants into the plain, preparatory to hunting them 
the next day, we set fire to the grass, and moved the 
camp to a more secure position, where the savages 
who had returned, assisted in fortifying our stockade 
against the Lions. 

At day break the following morning, we crossed an 
extensive valley which skirts the mountain range, 
passing the ruins of several stone kraals, which in 
former times served to confine the cattle of numer- 
ous Bechuana tribes then living in peaceful posses- 
sion of the country. These crumbling memorials 
now afford evidence of the extent to which this love- 
ly spot was populated before the devastating wars of 



* JYumida Meliagris. 

23 



178 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIX , 



Moselekatse laid it waste, and indicate also a refine- 
ment in the art of building that I had not met with 
before. Our guides eagerly plucked several plants 
of tobacco that grew wild about the enclosures,, dry- 
ing them for the manufacture of snuff. Soon after- 
wards we entered a gorge of the mountains, and be- 
gan to ascend. The ravages of Elephants were here 
still more conspicuous, and foot prints of the preced- 
ing day were numerous. We paused on the moun- 
tains to admire the stupendous depth and formidable 
character of the ravines and chasms, which have been 
scooped out by the mighty torrents of water that 
roll down during the rainy season, with fury irresis- 
tible, uprooting ancient trees, and hurling into the 
plain below huge masses of rock, which, once put 
in motion bound from ledge to ledge until they 
reach the bottom of the valley. Nearly all the rivers 
in this part of Africa, take their source in the 
Cashan range. It divides the waters that flow to 
the Eastward into the Mozambique sea, from those 
that run to the Westward into the Atlantic Ocean ; 
and the country on both sides being abundantly irri- 
gated, is far better calculated both for grazing and 
eultivation than any part of the district that we 
found the Matabili occupying. The fear of Din- 
gan, however, has led them to neglect it, and to estab- 
lish themselves in a more secure position. A gigan- 
tic savage of a subordinate tribe of the Baquaina, a 



Chap. XIX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



179 



conquered nation to the Northward, here accidentally 
joined us. He was a perfect ogre in dimensions, six 
feet four inches high, and stout in proportion. From 
him we learned that there was a large herd of Ele- 
phants on the opposite side of the mountains, out of 
which he had speared a young one the day before. We 
proceeded under his guidance, and threading a pass 
in the mountains formed by the dry channel of a ra- 
vine, through which a waggon might be brought with 
little difficulty, sat down to breakfast by a refreshing 
mountain rill. A large colony of Pig-faced Baboons,* 
shortly made their appearance above us, some slowly 
advancing with an inquisitive look, others deliberate- 
ly seating themselves on the rocks, as though debat- 
ing on the propriety of our unceremonious trespass 
on their domains. Their inhospitable treatment at 
length obliging us to make an example, we fired two 
shots among them. Numbers assembled round the 
spot where the first had struck, scraping the lead with 
their nails, and scrutinizing it with ludicrous gestures 
and grimace. The second, however, knocked over 
one of their elders, an enormous fellow, who was strut- 
ting about erect, laying down the law — and who, jud- 
ing from his venerable appearance, must have been 
at least a great-grand-sire. This national calamity 
caused incredible consternation, and many affecting 



# Cynocephalus Porcmim. 



180 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XIX, 



domestic scenes. The party dispersed in all direc- 
tions, mothers snatching up their infants, and bearing 
them in their arms out of the reach of danger with 
an impulse and action perfectly human. 

Conducted by an Elephant path, we descended 
through the forest to a secluded dell on the northern 
side of the range. Beyond, the whole plain was 
studded with detached pyramidical stony hills, amongst 
which we could perceive the extensive remains of 
cattle enclosures and ruins, similar to those we had 
passed in the morning, testifying of * ' cities long gone 
by." The tracts of the Elephants leading back 
again to the mountains, we reascended by a steep 
path considerably to the Westward of the defile 
through which we had come, and, on arriving at the 
summit, perceived our waggons like small white 
specks in the distant valley. Bare and sterile rocks 
occupy the highest elevation of these mountains, 
commanding an extensive view, and forming a strong 
contrast with the middle and lower regions, so thick- 
ly covered with verdure and forests, the latter chiefly 
occupying the ravines. Having reconnoitered the 
whole country through a telescope, without being 
able to discern the animals of which we were in quest, 
we descended by a steep foot-path, the face of the 
mountain being strewed with round white pebbles. 
Near the summit grew a venerable mimosa, which 
completely overshadowed the path, and a little on 



Chap. XIX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



181 



one side of it we observed a large heap which had 
been formed by. each passenger contributing one of 
these pebbles as he passed. Our savages added their 
inite, simply picking up the nearest, and casting it 
irreverently towards the hill. This being the only 
approach to external worship or religious ceremony 
that we. had seen, we naturally became very inquisi- 
tive on the subject, but could elicit no satisfactory 
information. Mohanycom said it was " the King/' 
from which very sapient reply we were left at liberty 
to conclude, either that the hill was a monument of 
respect to royalty, or that they had been engaged in 
an idolatrous rite. The former is the most proba- 
ble, for, amongst the Matabili, the reigning monarch, 
whilst he absorbs all their praises, is the only deity. 
He it is,, in the opinion of this benighted race, that 
"maketh the rain to fall and the grass to grow, that 
seeth the evil and the good, and in whose hands are 
the issues of life and death." They have no idea of 
a Creator, so far as we could learn, or knowledge of 
a future state ; nor could we ascertain that by the 
term King, they ever referred to any being beyond 
the despot who presides over their mortal destinies. 

On reaching the foot of the mountains, we found 
a portion of the skull of the Elephant's calf that our 
colossal savage friend had destroyed the day before. 
It was all that the Hysenas had left, of the little that 
he had considered too hard for his own digestion. 



182 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIX. 



The tracks of the drove had gone Eastward over the' 
country where we had already hunted, and as it 
waxed late we made the best of our way to the 
camp. I shot two Quaggas for our savage allies, 
who returned during the night laden with flesh, and 
bringing with them a Wild Hog,* that they had 
buried in the morning in a Porcupine's earth, to which 
it had been driven by their dogs. 

The grass on the opposite side of the mountains 
having been burnt, we resolved by the advice of the 
natives, to skirt them on the South side for a day or 
two. As soon as it was light, I set out with Moha- 
nycom, and killed a spotted Hyaena,f that had been 
attracted with many others by the smell of the pork 
to our camp. I was glad to have my revenge, for 
they had annoyed our cattle all night long, moaning 
funereally in concert with the dismal yelling of Jack- 
als.J and roaring of Lions, with whose melody our 
only surviving dog never failed to chime in. The 
sole of my shoe coming off, I had the felicity of run- 
ning barefooted over sharp flints to overtake the 
waggons, which had crossed four inconsiderable 
mountain streams, and were entering a field of tall 
reed-grass, that waved above the heads of the oxen. 
An immense white Rhinoceros suddenly started from 
his slumbers, and rushed furiously at the leading 



* Sus Larvatus. f Hyama Crocuta. 

J Canis Mesomelas, 



Chap. XIX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



183 



waggon, crushing the dry reeds before him, and 
alarming the cattle by his loud snorting, and hostile 
demonstrations. A volley, however, cooled his cour- 
age, and he retired to a suitable bush where we de- 
spatched him. Three more Rhinoceroses were added 
to the list on our way to the Massellan river, which 
flowing through the mountains, joins the Lingkling, 
a tributary to the Limpopo. 

Although said to be very expert in following the 
tracks of wild animals, the Hottentots are far less 
skilful than the Asiatics, and I not unfrequently eclips- 
ed them myself. Piet was the most accomplished 
in wood craft, and besides being possessed of consid- 
erably more nerve, was the only one of our followers 
upon whom I could depend for any assistance in the 
field. The rest were ready enough to go out that 
they might obtain a supply of ammunition, and gain 
a pretext for evading their other duties — but their 
natural indolence extending itself even to their recrea- 
tions, they never hesitated to abandon me at their con- 
venience, in order to divert themselves with the more 
common species of game, which could be circumvent- 
ed with little exertion. The savages never accompa- 
nied us beyond the carcase of the first large animal 
slain, upon which having gorged to repletion, they fell 
fast asleep over the fire. 

On the 5th November, we followed the traces of 
Elephants along the side of the mountains for miles^ 



184 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XIX- 



through stupendous forests, all the Hottentots ex- 
cepting Piet dropping in the rear in succession, either 
to solace themselves with a pipe, or to expend their 
ammunition upon ignoble game. Time not permitting 
us to continue the search, we descended into a valley, 
bent upon the destruction of a Roan Antelope,* a 
large herd of which rare animals w-ere quietly graz- 
ing. A pair of white Rhinoceroses opposed our 
descent, and being unwilling to fire at them, we had 
some trouble in freeing ourselves from their compa- 
ny. A large herd of w r ild Swine f or as Indians 
term it, a sounder of Hog, carrying their long whip 
like tails erect, then passed in order of review, and 
immediately afterwards two bull Buffaloes were ob- 
served within pistol shot. It was a perfect panora- 
ma of game; I had with great difficulty restrained 
Piet from firing, and was almost w ithin reach of the 
Bucks, when a Hottentot suddenly discharging his 
gun put every thing to flight. The Buffaloes passed 
me quite close on their way to the hills. I fractured 
the hind leg of the largest, and mounting my horse, 
closed with him immediately, and after two gallant 
charges performed upon three legs, he fell, never to 
rise again. This was a noble specimen of the Afri- 
can Buffalo, standing sixteen hands and a half at the 
shoulder. His ponderous horns measured four feet 

* Jligocerus Equina. Delineated in the Africa Views, 
f Phascochmrus Africanus. 



Chap. XIX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



185 



from tip to tip, and like a mass of rock, overshadow- 
ing his small sinister grey eyes, imparted to his coun- 
tenance the most cunning, gloomy, and vindictive 
expression. The savages instantly set to work upon 
the carcase with their teeth and assegais — Piet pro- 
viding himself with portions of the hide for shoe soles, 
and of the flesh, which though coarse, is a tolerable 
imitation of beef. 

From the summit of a hill which commanded an 
extensive prospect over a straggling forest, I shortly 
afterwards perceived a large herd of Buffaloes, qui- 
etly chewing the cud beneath an umbrageous tree. 
Creeping close upon them, I killed a Bull with a single 
ball, but the confused echo, reverberating among the 
mountains alarming the survivors, about fifty in num- 
ber, they dashed panic stricken from their conceal- 
ment, ignorant whence the sound proceeded, and every 
thing yielding to their giant strength, I narrowly 
escaped being trampled underfoot in their progress. 
We moved five miles to the Eastward in the after- 
noon, stopping to take up the head of the Buffalo, 
which Andries could with difficulty lift upon the wag- 
gon. Myriads of vultures, and the clouds of smoke, 
which arose from the fires of the giant and his asso- 
ciates, directed us to the spot. In commemoration, I 
presume, of the exploit of Guy Fawkes, they had kin- 
dled a bon fire, which bid fair to destroy all the grass 
in the country, the flames fanned by the wind already 

24 



186 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XIX. 



beginning to ascend the hills. Nothing can be con- 
ceived more horribly disgusting than the appearance 
presented by the savages, who, gorged to the throat, 
and besmeared with blood, grease, and filth from the 
entrails, sat nodding torpidly round the remains of 
the carcase, sucking marrow from the bones, whilst 
their lean famished curs were regaling themselves 
upon the garbage. Every bush was garnished with 
flaps of meat, and every man had turned beef butcher, 
whilst swollen vultures * were perched upon the adja- 
cent trees, and others yet ungorged were inhaling the 
odours that arose. 

The sun set upon us with every demonstration of 
rain. The night was dark and gusty. Thunder 
pealing amongst the mountains, and vivid flashes of 
forked lightning presaged a coming storm; fortu- 
nately, however, it expended it's fury in the hills, and 
only visited us with a few drops. Before going to- 
bed, I had been gazing for hours upon the singular 
and sublime effect produced by the extensive and 
rapidly spreading combustion of the grass. A strong 
South Easterly wind setting towards the hills, was 
driving the devouring element with a loud crackling 
noise, up the steep grassy sides, in long red lines, 
which, extending for miles, swept along the heights 
with devastating fury, brilliantly illuminating the land- 

* Vultus Fulvus, and VuUus]siuriculans r White and Black 
Aas-vogel of the Cape Colonist, 



Chap. XIX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



187 



scape, and threatening to denude the whole country 
of its vegetation. Suddenly the storm burst above the 
scene. The wind immediately hushed; a death-like 
stillness succeeded to the crackling of the flames. 
Every spark of the conflagration was extinguished 
in an instant by the deluge that descended, and the 
Egyptian-like darkness of the night was unbroken 
even by a solitary star. 



188 



CHAPTER XX. 



ELEPHANT HUNTING IN THE CASHAN MOUNTAINS. 

Before daybreak the following morning, it was dis- 
covered that the oxen having been alarmed by Lions, 
had made their escape from the pound. A party was 
despatched in pursuit of them, and we proceeded 
into the hills to look for Buffaloes. The thunder- 
storm having purified the atmosphere, had rendered 
the weather delightfully cool, and a deep wooded de- 
file which had not been approached by the conflagra- 
tion of the day before, was filled with game that had 
fled before the flames. A Rhinoceros was killed al- 
most immediately, and before we had reloaded, a 
noble herd of near one hundred and fifty Buffaloes 
was perceived on a slope overhanging a sedgy stream. 
Having crept within five and twenty yards, we de- 
spatched two Bulls before the alarm was spread. 
Crashing through the forest, they overturned decay- 
ed trees in their route, and swept along the brow of 
the opposite hill in fearful confusion, squeezed togeth- 
er in a compact phalanx, and raising an incredible 
cloud of dust to mark their course. We mounted 
our horses, and after sticking some time in the treach- 



Chap. XX.] 



EXPEDITION, &c. 



189 



erous mud of the rivulet, gained the opposite bank 
and brought two more to bay, which were de- 
spatched after several charges. Our savage friends, 
still torpid from their 3'esterday's feast, had not made 
their* appearance ; we therefore despatched Claas, 
after breakfast was over, to bring in some marrow 
bones, in the act of collecting which delicacies, he 
was put to flight by a Lion that jumped out of a 
bush close to him, and did not leave him time to think 
of his gun. After some hours, however, he mustered 
courage to proceed with a large party to recover it. 

Early in the afternoon the Hottentots returned 
with the oxen, and we proceeded without loss of time 
to the Eastward, following the course of the moun- 
tains through very high grass, and passing between 
two conical hills of singular appearance which stood 
like sentinels on either hand ; after crossing six incon- 
siderable streams, we with some difficulty gained the 
vicinity of a remarkably abrupt opening in the range, 
which through a telescope appeared to afford a prac- 
ticable road to the Northward. Both our waggons 
stuck fast in the Sant river, and were with difficulty 
extricated by the united efforts of the teams. The 
heat was intense, not a breath stirred, and heavy 
black clouds fast collecting bade us prepare for a de- 
luge. We therefore formed the camp in a sheltered 
and elevated position, under the lee of a high stone 
enclosure, which only required the entrance to be 



190 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XX. 



closed with bushes to make a secure pound for the 
cattle. Scarcely were these arrangements completed, 
when a stream of liquid fire ran along the ground' 
and a deafening thunder clap, exploding close above 
us, was instantly followed by a torrent of«rain, 
which "came dancing to the earth, 99 not in drops, 
but in continuous streams, and with indescribable 
violence, during the greater part of the night ; the 
thunder now receding and rumbling less and less dis- 
tinctly, but more incessantly among the distant moun- 
tains — now pealing in echoes over the nearer hills, and 
now returning to burst with redoubled violence above 
our heads. 

" Far along 

From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, 
Leapt the wild thunder, not from one lone cloud, 
But every mountain soon had found a tongue." 

The horses and oxen were presently standing knee 
deep in water; our followers remained sitting all 
night in the baggage waggon which leaked consider- 
ably, but our own, being better covered, fortunately 
resisted the pitiless storm. Sleep was however out of 
the question, the earth actually threatening to give 
way under us, and the lightning being so painfully 
vivid that we were glad to hide our heads under the 
pillow. 

Those only who have witnessed the setting in of 
the South West monsoon in India, are capable of fully 



Chap. XX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



191 



understanding the awful tempest I have attempted to 
describe. About an hour before dawn its fury began 
to abate, and at sunrise it was perfectly fine, but the 
rivers were quite impassable. I proceeded with some 
of the Hottentots to reconnoitre the pass, but found 
that it was impassable for waggons, being nothing 
more than a narrow channel flanked by perpendicu- 
lar crags, between which the Sant river rushes on its 
way to join the Lingkling, making a number of very 
abrupt windings through a most impracticable coun- 
try, intersected by a succession of rocky acclivities. 
From the highest peak we saw several herds of Buf- 
faloes, and whilst descending, came upon the tracks 
of a huge Elephant that had passed about an hour 
before. This being the largest foot print we had 
seen, I had the curiosity to measure it, in order to as- 
certain the animal's height — twice the circumference 
of an Elephant's foot being, it is notorious, the exact 
height at the shoulder. It yielded a product of about 
twelve feet r which notwithstanding the traditions that 
have been handed down, I believe to be the maximum 
height attained by the African Elephant.* We fol- 
lowed the trail across the Sant river, which had now 
considerably subsided — and finding that it proceeded 
Eastward along the mountain chain, returned to our 
encampment for horses and ammunition. 



* Elephas Africanus, Delineated in the African Views. 



192 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XX. 



Leaving the waggons to proceed to a spot agreed 
upon, we again took the field about ten o'clock, and 
pursued the track indefatigably for eight miles, over 
a country presenting every variety of feature. At 
one time we crossed bare stony ridges, at another 
threaded the intricacies of shady but dilapidated 
forests ; now struggled through high fields of waving 
grass, and again emerged into open downs. At 
length we arrived amongst extensive groups of grassy 
hillocks, covered with loose stones, interspersed with 
streams, and occasional patches of forest in which 
the recent ravages of Elephants were surprising. 
Here to our inexpressible gratification we descried 
a large herd of those long sought animals, lazily 
browsing at the head of a distant valley, our atten- 
tion having been first directed to it, by the strong and 
not to be mistaken effluvia with which the wind was 
impregnated. Never having before seen the noble 
Elephant in his native jungles, we gazed on the sight 
before us with intense, and indescribable interest. Our 
feelings on the occasion even extended to our follow- 
ers. As for Andries he became so agitated that he 
could scarcely articulate. With open eyes and quiver- 
ing lips he at length stuttered forth " Dar stand 
de Oliphant." Mohanycom and 'Lingap were imme- 
diately despatched to drive the herd back into the val- 
ley, up which we rode slowly and without noise, 
against the wind ; and arriving within one hundred 



Chap. XX,] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



198 



and fifty yards unperceived, we made our horses fast, 
and took up a commanding position in an old stone 
kraal. The shouting of the savages, who now ap- 
peared on the height rattling their shields, caused the 
huge animals to move unsuspiciously towards us, 
and even within ten yardsof our ambush. The group 
consisted of nine, all females with large tusks. We 
selected the finest, and with perfect deliberation fired 
a volley of five balls into her. She stumbled, but 
recovering herself, uttered a shrill note of lamenta- 
tion, when the whole party threw their trunks above 
their heads, and instantly clambered up the adjacent 
hill with incredible celerity, their huge fan-like ears, 
flapping in the ratio of their speed. We instantly 
mounted our horses, and the sharp loose stones not 
suiting the feet of the wounded lady, soon closed 
with her. Streaming with blood, and infuriated with 
rage, she turned upon us with uplifted trunk, and it 
was not until after repeated discharges, that a ball 
took effect in her brain, and threw her lifeless on 
the earth, which resounded with the fall. 

Turning our attention from the exciting scene I 
have described, we found that a second valley had 
opened upon us, surrounded by bare stony hills, and 
traversed by a thinly wooded ravine. Here a grand 
and magnificent panorama was before us, which beg- 
gars all description, The whole face of the landscape 
was actually covered with wild Elephants, There 

25 



194 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XX. 



could not have been fewer than three hundred within 
the scope of our vision. Every height and green 
knoll was dotted over with groups of them, whilst 
the bottom of the glen exhibited a dense and sable 
living mass — their colossal forms being at one mo- 
ment partially concealed by the trees which they 
were disfiguring with giant strength ; and at others 
seen majestically emerging into the open glades, 
bearing in their trunks the branches of trees with 
which they indolently protected themselves from the 
flies. The back ground was filled by a limited peep 
of the blue mountainous range, which here assumed 
a remarkably precipitous character, and completed a 
picture at once soul-stirring and sublime! 

Our approach being still against the wind was un- 
observed, and created little alarm, until the herd that 
we had left behind, suddenly showed itself, recklessly 
thundering down the side of the hill to join the main 
body, and passing so close to us, that we could not 
refrain from firing a broad side into one of them, which 
however bravely withstood it. We secured our horses 
on the summit of a stony ridge, and then stationing 
ourselves at an opportune place on a ledge overlook- 
ing the wooded defile, sent Andries to manoeuvre so 
that as many of the Elephants as possible should pass 
before us in order of reveiw, that we might accertain 
by a close inspection, whether there was not a male 
amongst them. Filing sluggishly along, they occa- 



Chap. XX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



195 



sionally halted beneath an umbrageous tree within 
fifteen yards of us, lazily fanning themselves with 
their ample ears, blowing away the flies with their 
trunks, and uttering the feeble and peculiar cry so fa- 
miliar to Indians. They all proved to be ladies, and 
most of them mothers, followed by their little old fa- 
shioned calves each trudging close to the heels of her 
dam and mimicking all her actions. Thus situated 
we might have killed any number we pleased, their 
heads being frequently turned towards us, in such a po- 
sition, and so close, that a single ball in the brain would 
have sufficed for each ; but whilst we were yet hesitat- 
ing, a bullet suddenly whizzed past Richardson's ear 
and put the whole herd to immediate flight. We had 
barely time to recede behind a tree, before a party of 
about twenty with several little ones in their wake were 
upon us, striding at their utmost speed, and trumpet- 
ing loudly with uplifted heads. I rested my rifle a- 
gainst the tree, and firing behind the shoulder of the 
leader, she dropped instantly. Another large detach- 
ment appearing close behind us at the same moment 
we were compelled to retreat, dodging from tree to 
tree, stumbling amongst sharp stones, and ever coming 
upon fresh parties of the enemy. This scence of 
ludicrous confusion did not long continue — and soon 
approaching the prostrate lady, we put an end to her 
struggles by a shot in the forehead. Andries now 
came up in high good humour at his achievements, and 



196 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XX > 



in the most bravado manner discharged his piece into 
the dead carcase, under the pretence that the animal 
was shamming. His object evidently was to con- 
found the shots — for thrusting his middle finger into 
the orifice made by my two ounce ball, he with the 
most modest assurance declared himself the author of 
the deed, being pleased altogether to overlook the 
fact of the mortal shot having entered the Elephant 
on the side opposite to that on which he was station- 
ed, and that his own ball, whether designedly or not, 
had all but expended my worthy and esteemed fellow 
traveller. 

On our way to the camp, of the exact position 
of which we were uncertain in consequence of the late 
inundation, we passed three other large herds of Ele- 
phants. One of these standing directly in the route, we 
attacked it and pursued the fugitives about a mile 
over loose stones. Much has been said of the attach- 
ment of Elephants to their young, but neither on 
this, nor on any subsequent occasion, did we per- 
ceive them evince the smallest concern for their safe- 
ty. On the contrary they left them to shift for them- 
selves, and Mohanycom and'Lingap, who were behind 
us, assegaied one, the tail of which they brought in. 
We slew another old female as we ascended the brow 
of an eminence, and at the same moment perceived our 
waggons within a few hundred yards of the spot. 
The whole herd dashed through the camp causing 



Chap. XX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



197 



indescribable consternation amongst cattle and follow- 
ers, but fortunately no accident occurred, and after the 
fatiguing day's work we had undergone, we were not 
sorry to find ourselves at home. 

Watery clouds hung about the sun as he set heavily 
behind the mountains. Loud peals of crashing thun- 
der rent the air, and ere it was dark, we had a repeti- 
tion of yesterday's storm, the river roaring past us 
with frightful fury. Troops of Elepants flying from 
the scene of slaughter, passed close to our waggons 
during the darkness, their wild voices echoing a- 
mongst the mountains, and sounding like trumpets 
above the tempest. It was impossible to keep the 
fires burning ; and the oxen and sheep were alarmed 
to such a degree, that they broke from the kraal, 
and sought safety in the wilderness. Tired as I 
was, the excitement I had undergone banished sleep 
from my eyes. I ruminated on the spirit-stirring 
events of the day, and burned with impatience to 
renew them, Heedless of the withering blast that 
howled without, I felt that my most sanguine expec- 
tations had been realized, and that we had already 
been amply repaid for the difficulties, privations and 
dangers, that we had encountered in our toilsome 
journey towards this fairy land of sport. 



198 



CHAPTER XXL 



i LEPHANT HUNTING CONTINUED; AND LION SHOOT- 
ING FROM THE WAGGONS. 

It was still raining heavily when the day gloomily 
dawned. The mountain torrents having overflown 
their banks, the valley in which we were encamped 
had become a continuous pool of water; and those 
of our followers, who had not slung their hammocks 
beneath the waggons, were partially submerged. 
High roads had been ploughed through the mire by 
the passage of the Elephants, and whole acres of 
grass, by which we were surrounded the preceding 
evening, had been completely trampled down. Soon 
after sunrise it cleared up, and the cattle having 
been recovered, we armed a party with hatchets, and 
proceeded on foot to cut out the teeth of the slain Ele- 
phants; but walking was exceedingly toilsome, and 
our feet sinking to the ancles in black mud, were ex- 
tricated with inconceivable difficulty. Taking ad- 
vantage of our situation, an irritated Rhinoceros sal- 
lied from behind an old stone wall ; and the damp 
causing three of the guns to miss fire., he was actu- 
ally amongst us when my ball fortunately pierced his 
eye, and he fell dead at our feet, 



Chap. XXL] 



EXPEDITION, &e. 



199 



Not an Elephant was to be seen on the ground 
that was yesterday teeming with them ; but on reach- 
ing the glen which had been the scene of our exploits 
during the early part of the action, a calf about three 
and a half feet high, walked forth from a bush, and 
saluted us with mournful piping notes. We had ob- 
served the unhappy little wretch hovering about its mo- 
ther after she fell, and having probably been unable 
to overtake the herd, it had passed a dreary night in 
the wood. Entwining its little proboscis about our 
legs, the sagacious creature, after demonstrating its 
delight at our arrival by a thousand ungainly antics, 
accompanied the party to the body of its dam ; which 
swollen to an enormous size, was surrounded by an 
inquest of vultures. Seated in gaunt array, with 
their shoulders shrugged, these loathsome fowls were 
awaiting its decomposition with forced resignation : 
the tough hide having defied all the efforts of their 
beaks, with which the eyes and softer parts had been 
vigorously assailed. The conduct of the quaint little 
calf now became quite affecting, and elicited the sym- 
pathy of every one. It ran round its mother's corse 
with touching demonstrations of grief, piping sorrow- 
fully, and vainly attempting to raise her with its tiny 
trunk. I confess that I had felt compunctions in 
committing the murder the day before, and now half 
resolved never to assist in another ; for in addition to 
the moving behaviour of the young Elephant, I had 



200 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXL 



been unable to divest myself of the idea that I was 
firing at my old favorite Moivla-Bukfish, from 
whose gallant back I had vanquished so many of my 
feline foes in Guzerat — an impression, which how- 
ever ridiculous it must appear, detracted considerably 
from the satisfaction I experienced. 

The operation of hewing out three pair of tusks, 
occupied several hours, their roots, imbedded in mas- 
sy sockets, spreading over the greater portion of the 
face. My Indian friends will marvel when they hear 
of tusks being extracted from the jaws of a female 
Elephant — but, with very few exceptions, all that we 
saw had these accessories, measuring from three to 
four feet in length. I have already stated my belief 
that the maximum height of the African male is 
twelve feet ; that of the female averages eight and a 
half — the enormous magnitude of the ears, which 
not only cover the whole of the shoulder, but over- 
lap each other on the neck, to the complete exclusion 
of the Mahout or Driver, constituting another strik- 
ing feature of difference between the two species. 
The forehead is remarkably large and prominent, 
and consists of two walls or tables; between which, 
a wide cellular space intervening, a ball, hardened 
with tin or quicksilver, readily penetrates to the brain 
and proves instantaneously fatal. 

The barbarous tribes that people Southern Africa 
have never dreamt of the possibility of rendering 



Chap. XXI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



201 



this lordly quadruped serviceable in a domestic capa- 
city; and even amongst the Colonists, there exists an 
unaccountable superstition that his subjugation is 
not to be accomplished. His capture however, might 
readily be achieved; and, as he appears to possess all 
the aptitude of his Asiatic relative, the only difficulty 
that presents itself, is the general absence, within our 
territories, of sufficient food for his support. Were 
he once domesticated, and arrayed against the beasts 
of the forest, Africa would realize the very beau 
ideal of magnificent sport. It is also worthy of re- 
mark that no attempt has ever been made on the part 
of the Colonists to naturalize another most useful 
animal, the Camel although soil, climate, and pro- 
ductions appear alike to favor its introduction, 

We succeeded, after considerable labor, in extract- 
ing the ball which Andries pretended to have fired 
yesterday ; and the grooves of my rifle being conspic- 
uous upon it, that worthy, but unabashed, squire 
was constrained not only to relinquish his claim to 
the merit of having slain the Elephant — but also to 
forego his fancied right to the ivory. The miniature 
Elephant, finding that its mother heeded not its 
caresses, voluntarily followed our party to the wag- 
gons, where it was received with shouts of welcome 
from the people, and a band of all sorts of melody 
from the cattle. It died, however, in spite of every 
care, in the course of a few days; as did two others, 
much older, that we subsequently captured. 

26 



202 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXI. 



The day again closed with a thunder-storm, which 
twice passed off, and twice revisited us in the course 
of the night. The rivers, which had subsided dur- 
ing the day, became once more agitated, and instead 
of the trumpet accompaniment from Elephants, we 
were serenaded by a legion of jackals. An opening 
shriek from one of these crafty animals, resounding 
during the conflict of the elements, amid craggy 
rocks and solitary glens, was the signal for a gene- 
ral chorus; and, re-answered by a long protracted 
scream from an hundred throats, did not fail in its 
effect upon our harrassed cattle, causing the sheep to 
break out of the enclosure, notwithstanding our 
efforts to control them. 

Although the ground was very heavy, we resolved 
upon shifting the camp a few miles to the Eastward, in 
order to be within reach of the Elephants. All the 
mountain rills were full, but they were not of suffi- 
cient magnitude to obstruct the waggons. As we 
proceeded, several Elephants were observed clamber- 
ing with the agility of Chamois, to the very summit 
of the chain. Shortly after we had halted, I went 
out alone, and ascending by a narrow path trodden 
by wild animals, entered a strip of forest occupying 
an extensive ravine. On the outside of this, stood 
a mighty bull Elephant, his trunk entwined around 
his tusk, and, but for the flapping of his huge ears, 
motionless as a statue. Securing my mare to a tree 



Chap. XXI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



208 



I crept silently behind a block of stone, and levelled 
my rifle at his ample forehead. The earth trembled 
under the weight of the enormous brute as he drop- 
ped heavily, uttering one deep groan, and expiring 
without a struggle. His height at the shoulder was 
eleven feet and a half, and his tusks measured more 
than seven in length. The echo of the shot, rever- 
berating through hill and dale, caused the mare to 
break her tether and abscond, and brought large 
tribes of pig-faced baboons from their sylvan haunts, 
to afford me any thing but sympathy. Their ridicu- 
lous grimaces, however, could not fail to elicit my 
mirth, whatever might have been my humour. It 
was long before I recovered my horse, and I did not 
regain the waggons until after night-fall. The new 
moon brought, if possible, a more abundant supply 
of rain than usual; nor did the Lions fail to take 
advantage of the nocturnal tempest, having twice 
endeavored to effect an entrance into the cattle fold. 
It continued, until nine o'clock the next morning, 
to pour with such violence, that we were unable to 
open the canvas curtains of the waggon. Peeping 
out, however, to ascertain if there was any prospect 
of its clearing up, we perceived three Lions squatted 
within an hundred yards, in the open plain, atten- 
tively watching the oxen. Our rifles were hastily 
seized, but the dampness of the atmosphere prevented 
their exploding. One after another, too, the Hotten- 



204 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXI. 



tots sprang out of the pack waggon, and snapped 
their guns at the unwelcome intruders, as they trot- 
ted sulkily away, and took up their position on a 
stony eminence at no great distance. Fresh caps 
and priming were applied, and a broad side was fol- 
lowed by the instantaneous demise of the largest, 
whose cranium was perforated by two bullets at the 
same instant. Swinging their tails over their backs, 
the survivors took warning by the fate of their com- 
panion, and dashed into the thicket with a roar. In 
another half hour, the voice of Leo was again heard 
at the foot of the mountains, about a quarter of a 
mile from the camp ; and from the waggon-top we 
could perceive a savage monster rampant, with his 
tail hoisted and whirling in a circle — charging furi- 
ously along the base of the range — and in desperate 
wrath, making towards John April, who was tending 
the sheep. Every one instinctively grasped his wea- 
pon, and rushed to the rescue, calling loudly to warn 
the expected victim of his danger. Without taking 
the smallest notice of him, however, the infuriated 
monster dashed past, roaring and lashing his sides 
until concealed in the mist. Those who have seen 
the monarch of the forest in crippling captivity only, 
immured in a cage barely double his own length, 
with his sinews relaxed by confinement, have seen 
but the shadow of that animal, which " clears the 
desert with his rolling eye." 



Chap. XXI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



205 



The South African Lion, differs little from that 
found in Guzerat, in Western India,* measuring 
between ten and eleven feet in extreme length — but 
generally possesses a finer mane, a peculiarity which 
is attributable to the less jungly character of the 
country that he infests, and to the more advanced 
a°re w 7 hich he is suffered to attain. Amongst the 
Cape Colonists it is a fashionable belief, that there 
are two distinct species of the African Lion — -the 
yellow, and the black- — and that the one is infinite- 
ly less ferocious than the othei\ But I need scarce- 
ly inform the well instructed reader, that both the 
the color and the size depend chiefly upon the ani- 
mal's age; the developement of the physical powers, 
and of the mane also, being principally influenced 
by a like contingency. That which has been de- 
signated the "maneless Lion of Guzerat," is noth- 
ing more than a young Lion whose mane has not 
shot forth; and I give this opinion with less hesita- 
tion, having slain the "King of beasts" in every 
stage from whelphood to imbecility. 

* The reader is aware that the Tiger is not a denizen of 
Africa. Both the Leopard, and the Hunting Leopard occur, 
but differ in no respect from those found in India. 



20(5 



CHAPTER XXII. 



SHOOTING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, AND HUNTING IN 
THE VALLEY OF THE LIMPOPO. 

It was unfortunately requisite, during the greater 
part of our journey, to furnish the Hottentots with 
ammunition for their protection whilst tending the 
cattle; and their incessant firing, which no remon- 
strance could control, soon disturbing the whole of 
the game in our neighbourhood, we found it useless 
to remain more than one day at any place. Com- 
pared with the quantity of powder expended by 
these men, the number of animals they killed was 
exceedingly limited — the supply of meat for the 
camp generally depending upon my success; but the 
beasts of the forest, having been unmolested all their 
lives, and unaccustomed to the report of the gun, 
fled before their attacks in consternation; so that 
within a few hours after the formation of the camp 
in a spot abounding with game, not a living quad- 
ruped was to be seen. 

The country through which we travelled being 
chiefly characterized by open plains or straggling 
forests, it will readily be conceived that woodcraft 
availed little in the destruction of game. Many of 



Chap. XXIIJ 



EXPEDITION, to. 



the species that occur are naturally slow and heavy ; 
and the gregarious habits of the fleeter, rendering 
them easy of approach on horseback, almost every 
animal, from the mighty Elephant to the most dimin- 
utive Antelope, must be pursued in the saddle. Not 
only, however, does the success of a hunting party 
mainly depend upon the number and condition of the 
horses— which are almost daily required also for the 
recovery of straying cattle— but its safety in event of 
an attack from the savage tribes, is equally involved. 
We could therefore have found ample employment 
for forty, instead of sixteen, half starved, shoeless 
Rozinantes, with nothing but grass to eat, and not 
so much even as a cloth to protect them from the 
cold and wet during a succession of inclement nights. 
But whilst none of our many trading advisers, who 
had doubtless experienced the difficulty of destroy- 
ing on foot sufficient game for the subsistence of 
their followers, had suggested our going better pro- 
vided; they had unfortunately succeeded in dissuad- 
ing us from carrying a supply of shoes or grain, the 
absence of both of which essentials we never ceased 
to deplore. The anxiety may be estimated with 
which we watched the now daily improving condition 
of our meagre steeds, and assiduously endeavoured 
to free them from the clusters of bursting ticks, 
which having been contracted amongst the bushes, 
threatened to relieve them of the little blood they 



208 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXII. 



possessed. A sturdy stall fed Arab, would have now 
been worth his weight in gold ; but ragged as the 
Cape horses undoubtedly are, it is but justice to 
their manifold merits to declare, that they only require 
feeding to render them most useful allies during an 
African campaign. Hardy, docile, and enduring, 
any number may be driven on the line of march, by 
a single Hottentot ; and they are soon habituated to 
graze unattended within sight of the waggons, where- 
ever grass is abundant. In the chase, the most formid- 
able animal does not inspire them with the slightest 
alarm ; and the bridle being thrown over their heads, 
they may generally be left standing in the wilderness 
for hours together, without attempting to stir from 
the spot. 

Our next movement brought us to the source of 
the Oori or Limpopo — the Gareep of Moselekatse's 
dominions. Fed by many fine streams from the 
Cashan range, this enchanting river springs into ex- 
istence as if by magic ; and rolling its deep and tran- 
quil waters between tiers of weeping willows, through 
a passage in the mountain barrier, takes its course to 
the Northward. Here we enjoyed the novel diversion 
of Hippopotamus* shooting — that animal abound- 
ing in the Limpopo, and dividing the empire with its 
amphibious neighbour the Crocodile. Throughout 

* Hippopotamus Jlmphibius. Delineated in the African 
Views. 



Chap. XXII.] SOUTEJERN AFRICA. 2()9 

the night, the unwieldy monsters might be heard 
snorting and blowing during their aquatic gambols, 
and we not unfrequently detected them in the act of 
sallying from their reed-grown coverts, to graze by 
the serene light of the moon ; never, however, ventur- 
ing to any distance from the river, the strong hold to 
which they betake themselves on the smallest alarm. 
Occasionally during the day, they were to be seen 
basking on the shore amid ooze and mud ; but shots 
were more constantly to be had at their uncouth heads, 
when protruded from the water to draw breath, and 
if killed, the body rose to the surface. Vulnerable 
only behind the ear, however, or in the eye, which is 
placed in a prominence, so as to resemble the garret 
window of a Dutch house, they require the perfection 
of rifle practice, and after a few shots become ex- 
ceedingly shy, exhibiting the snout only, and as 
instantly, withdrawing it. The flesh is delicious, re- 
sembling pork in flavour, and abounding in fat, which 
in the colony, is deservedly esteemed the great- 
est of delicacies. The hide is upwards of an inch 
and a half in thickness, and being scarcely flexible, 
may be dragged from the ribs in strips like the planks 
from a ship's side. Of these are manufactured a supe- 
rior description of sjambok, the elastic whip already 
noticed as being an indespensable piece of furniture 
to every Boor proceeding on a journey. Our follow- 
ers encumbered the waggons with a large invest- 

27 



210 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXII. 



ment of them, and of the canine teeth, the ivory oi 
which is extremely profitable. 

Of all the Mammalia, whose portraits, drawn from 
ill stuffed specimens have been foisted upon the world 
Behemoth has perhaps been the most ludicrously 
misrepresented. I sought in vain for that colos- 
sal head — for those cavern-like jaws, garnished 
with elephantine tusk — or those ponderous feet with 
which " the formidable and ferocious quadruped" is 
wont £< to trample down whole fields of corn during 
a single night !" Defenceless and inoffensive, his 
shapeless carcase is but feebly supported upon short 
and disproportioned legs, and his belly almost trail- 
ing upon the ground, he may not inaptly be likened 
to an overgrown pig. The color is pinkish brown, 
clouded and freckled with a darker tint. Of many 
that we shot, the largest measured less than five feet 
at the shoulder; and the reality falling so lamentably 
short of the monstrous conception I had formed, the 
" River Horse," or "Sea Cow,"* was the first, and 
indeed, the only South African quadruped in which 
I felt disappointed. 

The country now literally presented the appear- 
ance of a menagerie; the host of Rhinoceroses in 

* The Hippopotamus is termed by the Colonists Zekoe or 
Sea-Cow the least applicable designation perhaps, not ex- 
cepting that of the River Horse, that could have been con- 
ferred. 



Chap. XXII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



211 



particular, that daily exhibited themselves, almost 
exceeding belief. Whilst the camp was being 
formed, an ugly head might be seen protruded from 
every bush, and the possession of the ground was 
often stoutly disputed. In the field, these animals lost 
no opportunity of rendering themselves obnoxious — 
frequently charging at my elbow, when in the aet of 
drawing the trigger at some other object — and pursu- 
ing our horses with indefatigable and ludicrous indus- 
try, carrying their noses close to the ground, and 
uttering a sound between a grunt, and a smothered 
whistle. In removing the horn with an axe, the 
brain was discovered, seated in a cavity below it, at 
the very extremity of the snout— a phenomenon in the 
idiosyncrasy of this animal, which may in some mea- 
sure account for its want of intelligence and piggish 
obstinacy; as well as for the extraordinary acuteness 
of smell with which it is endowed. Irascible beyond 
all other quadrupeds, the African Rhinoceros appears 
subject even to unprovoked paroxysms of reckless fu- 
ry ; but the sphere of vision is so exceedingly limited, 
that its attacks although sudden and impetuous, are 
easily eluded, and a shot behind the shoulder, dis- 
charged from the distance of twenty or thirty yards, 
generally proves fatal. 

On our way from the waggons to a hill not half 
a mile distant, we counted no less than twenty- 
two of the white species of Rhinoceros, and were 



212 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXII. 



compelled in self defence to slaughter four. On another 
occasion, I was besieged in a bush by three at once, 
and had no little difficulty in beating off the assailants. 
Wild Buffaloes too might often be seen from the 
waggons. Riding up a narrow defile, flanked by 
steep banks, I one morning found myself suddenly 
confronted with the van of a vast troop of these for- 
midable animals, which were ascending from the 
opposite side — their malevolent grey eyes scowling 
beneath a threatening brow. Unable to turn, they 
must have charged over me, had my horse not con- 
trived to scramble up the bank; from the top of 
which I fired both barrels into the leader, a ponderous 
bull, whose appearance stamped him father of the 
herd. Falling on his knees, the patriarch was in- 
stantly trampled underfoot by his followers as they 
charged, bellowing in close squadron, down the decli- 
vity with the fury of a passing whirlwind, and mak- 
ing the woods re- echo to the clatter of their hoofs. 

In the vegetable world, a great variety of novel 
and interesting forms, grace the banks of the Lim- 
popo, but the airy acacia is still pre-eminently beauti- 
ful. Green and shady belts, bedizened with golden 
blossoms and purple pods, or fringed with the cradle 
nests of the pensile grosbeak, extend on either side — ■ 
their mazes being intersected by paths worn by Hip- 
popotami during their nocturnal rambles. The re- 
cesses of these fairy groves are the favorite haunts 



Chap. XXII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



213 



of many forest-loving Antelopes. The graceful Pal- 
lah, with knotted, and eccentrically inflected horns of 
extraordinary proportions, is found in large families. 
Shy and capricious in its habits, the elegance of its 
form, arid the delicate finish of its limbs, are unri- 
valled. The usual suecentoiial hoofs are wanting, 
but the hinder legs are furnished with remarkable 
cushions of wiry hair, which occur in no other 
species, and remind us of the heels of a Mercury. 
This favored spot too, is a chosen resort of the ma- 
jestic Water Buck, which I now found might be rid- 
den down with facility; a discovery that enabled me 
to obtain many splendid specimens. This rare and 
remarkable animal which has been already described, 
is never found at a distance from the banks of tropi- 
cal rivers, in the waters of which he delights to 
plunge. 

Another rare species — the Roan Antelope, or Bas- 
tard Gemsbok — is an inhabitant of the elevated downs 
and ridges about the source of this river, and being 
utterly destitute of speed, may be ridden to a stand- 
still without difficulty. This most imposing animal, 
which charges viciously when unable to continue 
its flight, is the size of a large horse; and ex- 
cepting the head and tail, which are jet black, is uni- 
formly of a delicate roan color* It is heavily built, 
and has an upright mane, long asinine ears, and ro- 
bust scimitar-shaped recurved horns. Here too, I 



211 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXII. 



first met with, and slew the Koodoo.* Majestic in 
its carriage, and brilliant in its color, this species 
may with propriety be styled the king of the tribe. 
Other Antelopes are stately, elegant, or curious — but 
the solitude-seeking Koodoo is absolutely regal! 
The ground color is a lively French grey approaching 
to blue, with several transverse white bands passing 
over the back and loins ; a copious mane, and deeply 
fringed, tricolored dewlap, setting off a pair of pon- 
derous, yet symmetrical horns, spirally twisted, and 
exceeding three feet in length. These are thrown 
along the back, as the stately wearer dashes through 
the mazes of the forest, or clambers the mountain 
side. The old bulls are invariably found apart from 
the females, which herd together in small troops, and 
are destitute of horns. 

Every open glade abounds with the more common 
species of game, such as the Brindled Gnoo_, Harte- 
beest, Sassayby, and Quagga, together with the Os- 
trich and Wild Hog; the tusks of this latter most hide- 
ous animal attaining in some instances to an enorm- 
ous size, although its stature is insignificant. Among 
the sedge grown rivulets, the Riet Buck is common; 
and the mountain range and its grassy environs, are 
the resort of six smaller species of Antelope, hither- 
to unnoticed in these pages; viz. the Klipspringer, 



* Strepsiceros Koodoo, Delineated in the African views 



Chap. XXII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



215 



Rheebuck, Rooe Rheebuck or Nagor, Ourebi, Steen= 
buck, and Duiker,* of each of which I obtained 
several specimens. Although described in the Ap- 
pendix, the remarkable character of the two first 
demand further notice; the Klipspringer, which is 
closely allied to the Chamois of Europe, and coney- 
like, has its house on the mountain-top, being fur- 
nished with singularly coarse hair, imparting the ap- 
pearance of an Hedge Hog ; whilst the fur of the Rhee- 
buck again, is of a curly woolly nature, resembling 
that of the Wild Rabbit. 

Excepting the Guinea Fowl, which usually abound- 
ed in the vicinity of wood and water, feathered game 
was comparatively scarce throughout our journey. 
Occasionally however, and here in particular, we 
found two species of the bustard, or Paoiv of the 
Colonists — two of the Florican or Koraan— with four 
distinct kinds of Partridge. To these however, I had 
little leisure to attend, my time being fully occupied 
from dawn until dark, in the pursuit of far more 
attractive objects, 

In the extensive and romantic valley of the Lim- 
popo which strongly contrasts with its own solitude, 
and with the and lands which must be traversed to 
arrive within its limits, Dame Nature has doubtless 

* Oreotragus Saltatrix, Redunca Capreohis, II. Lalandii, 
R. Scoparia, Tragulus Rupestris, and Cephalopus Mergens, 



216 



EXPEDITION, INTO [Chap. XXII. 



been unusually lavish of her gifts. A bold moun- 
tain landscape is chequered by innumerable rivulets 
abounding in fish, and watering a soil rich in luxu- 
riant vegetation, Forests, producing timber of the 
finest growth, are tenanted by a multitude of birds, 
which, if not generally musical, are all gorgeously at- 
tired ; and the meadows throughout are decked with 
blossoming geraniums, and with an endless profusion 
of the gayest flowers, fancifully distributed in almost 
artificial parterres. Let the fore-ground of this pic- 
ture, which is by no means extravagantly drawn, 
be filled in by the animal creation roaming in a state 
of undisturbed freedom, such as I have attempted 
to describe and this hunter's paradise, will surely 
not require to be colored by the feelings of an enthu- 
siastic sportsman, to stand out in striking relief from 
amongst the loveliest spots in the universe. 



217 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



EXCURSION TO THE EASTWARD OF THE LIMPOPO, 
AND JOURNEY ACROSS THE CASHAN MOUNTAINS 
TO THE NORTHWARD. 

The perils of waggon-travelling were now so ma- 
terially increased by the rugged character of the 
country, that in order to follow a retreating herd of 
Elephants it was found necessary to leave the camp 
standing — a measure to which we were further driv- 
en by a positive refusal on the part of the guides 
to accompany us to the Eastward of the Limpopo *, 
alleging their apprehension of hostilities from Din- 
gaan as a reason for their non-compliance in this in- 
stance with the King's orders to escort us wherever 
we pleased. Crossing the river, therefore, we skirted 
the mountain range on horseback, arriving at the 
close of the second day's hunting, below its highest 
point; the sources of the Bekane and Umpeban 
here marking the site of the last great battle fought 
between the armies of Moselekatse and Dingaan, in 
which that of the former was completely routed. 
These rivers speedily become confluent; and after 
describing a nearly semicircular course, join the Lim- 
popo, a considerable distance to the Northward of the 

28 



218 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXII. 



range, where the country assumes a more rugged 
character than ever, being intersected by detached 
stony hills and mountain chains of barren and for- 
bidding aspect. To the Southward it becomes very 
open and level, with occasional clumps of forest; but 
although the black soil continued, the vegetation was 
becoming visibly less and less abundant. 

Although unquestionably the highest part of South- 
ern Africa, if measured from the level of the sea, yet 
the actual altitude of the Cashan mountains, jut- 
ting up as they do, from an elevated base, is not so 
great as might be expected. From one point which 
we ascended, the extraordinary refraction of the at- 
mosphere enabled us to obtain a glimpse in the direc- 
tion of Delagoa, of a very distant range stretching 
North and South, and said to form the boundary of 
Moselekatse's conquests in that direction, during his 
progress from the Zooloo country to that he at present 
occupies. It is in this tract of country, to the East- 
ward of the beautiful but unhealthy slopes in which 
the Vaal river takes its origin, that Loais Triechard^ 
the leader of the first party of Colonial Emigrants has 
long been located, on the banks of what appears to 
be a very large river, reported by the natives to be 
tributary to the Limpopo; but of which the source 
and course remain unexplored. The first accounts 
of its existence were brought to the Colony by 
Robert Scoon, the trader to whose name I have before 



Chap. XXII.j 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



219 



alluded. Coming accidentally upon it whilst hunt- 
ing Elephants, he followed the banks for several days 
without being able to discover a ford, and such is 
the sluggish character of the stream, that it was some 
time before he could even determine the course; 
pieces of wood which were thrown in remaining al- 
most stationary on the surface. An exploring party 
of the Emigrants under a Boor named Bronkhorst, 
subsequently visited this water from Triechard's 
camp, and described its breadth to be mere than a 
mile, from which circumstance,, combined with its 
proximity to the head of the Vaal river, it is proba- 
ble that it is a lagoon. 

I shall not tax the patience of those of my read- 
ers, who may not be votaries of the chase, by a 
repetition of hunting scenes. We returned to our 
camp on the fourteenth, laden with spoils, having also 
fully establishhed the possibility of dispensing, even 
to cooking apparatus, with every article of baggage. 
Carrying nothing but the raiment on our backs, the 
saddle served for a pillow, and the horse-rug for a 
blanket. Our tent was the starry canopy of heaven; 
we drank of the waters of the chrystal stream, and 
our viands were the produce of our trusty rifles. 
It is said that the epicures of Rome esteemed the 
the trunk of an elephant an extraordinary luxury; 
and descending to more modern times we find our 
brother traveller, Vaillant, feasting upon the foot 
with extraordinary relish. To the attention of the 



220 EXPEDITION, INTO [Chap. XXIII. 



city alderman, however, I must be allowed to re- 
commend the slice round the eye, which appears 
to have been hitherto overlooked by bon vivans. 
Upon this dainty morsel, roasted upon a stick before 
a blazing fire, or singed among the embers, so as to 
come under the Hottentot denomination of Carbo- 
naadtje, on devilled-grill, we frequently feasted ; 
and I can aver, without the smallest fear of contra- 
diction, that the dish rather resembled the fragment 
of a shoe, picked up after a conflagration, than meat 
which could boast of having been subjected to a cul- 
inary process. 

Nothing momentous had transpired during our 
absence, Cceur de Lion our Deputy having proved 
himself a bold and vigilant Commander. The mer- 
ciless inroads of the Lions, and the trouble that their 
attacks involved, had at length taught our followers 
the necessity of keeping up constant watch-fires; 
and whenever the night was fine — which " by the 
King's orders/' was sometimes the case — the guides 
howled forth his praises, glutted themselves, and 
took snufTby turns. The wild wood rang with their 
shrill herdsman's whistle, and reiterated chorus of 
" Hi-bo-bo;" and when the night was spent, they 
leisurely fetched a large stone, upon which downy 
pillow having first refreshed the edges of their weap- 
ons, they placed their woolly heads by the fire- side. 

In these regions, where the heavenly bodies are 



Chap. XXIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



221 



seen through the clearest of mediums, a star-lit fir- 
mament is remarkably brilliant and beautiful. We 
frequently sat for some hours, over unadulterated 
" tea-water," witnessing Mohanvcom's ludicrous 
imitations of the dancing of our country-women at the 
Cape, or listening to tales of the success of the 
King's arms. One favorite theme was the defeat of 
Sobiqua, King of the Wangkets, in accomplishing 
whose downfall 'Lingap, had aided and abetted. 
Like many other African potentates, he had been 
found guilty of possessing too many cattle, and was 
presently compelled to fly to the Kalahari desert, with 
the wreck of his tribe. Conjecture, too, was alive, 
as to the fate of a Commando, that had four years 
before been despatched for the subjugation of the 
Damaras, but of which no tidings had ever been re- 
ceived; and the proceedings of a Dutch trader were 
not unfrequently brought on the tapis. It appeared 
that this wretch had undertaken in return for a 
quantity of ivory, to add a white female to the beau- 
ties of the King's seraglio ; and had actually succeeded 
in enticing a Farmer, with his fair vrouiv, to the very 
borders of the country, within which a Commando 
was in readiness to seize the lady. The diabolical 
scheme being suspected however, his designs were 
frustrated; and a fear of Moselekatse's implacable re- 
venge has obliged him to relinquish all trade with the 
savages, whilst the Colonists on the other hand, have 
placed the delinquent beyond the pale of society. 



222 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chip. XXIII. 



Our horses having now greatly improved in con- 
dition, we resolved to proceed immediately to the 
country of the Bakone or Baquaina, where Cameleop- 
ards were reported by the savages to be very abun- 
dant; and accordingly on the 15th November, having 
previously cleared away several of the trees, we 
crossed over to the North side of the Cashan moun- 
tains, by a perilous and barely practicable path. 
The waggons were several times only prevented from 
being dashed to pieces by means of guy-ropes, 
which fortunately preserved their equilibrium, and we 
were enabled to encamp on the Western banks of the 
Limpopo, some distance below the point where it 
winds through the bowels of the mountains, which 
rise on either hand in abrupt precipices, as though 
torn asunder by some mighty convulsion of nature. 
Here the country again assumes a more level cha- 
racter, but is broken to the Eastward by detached 
hills and low ridges, imperceptibly increasing in im- 
portance, until they grow into a great range of 
mountains, known to the natives as the Mural. 
These may be said to take their origin about one 
degree North of the parallel of Delagoa, assuming 
a nearly northerly direction, and dividing the tracts 
occupied by the Baquaina and Babariri. During 
the rainy season especially, they are infested by a 
large species of gad-fly, nearly the size of a honey- 
bee, the bite of which, like that of a similar pest 



Chap. XXIII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



223 



in Abyssinia, proves fatal to cattle. A desire to 
escape the officious visits of these destructive in- 
sects, whose persecutions relieved us of two of our 
oxen, soon obliged us to abandon the willow-fringed 
river, which threads the mountains for a considera- 
ble distance; and, after crossing the Lingkling, the 
embouchure of which is not many miles above 
that of the Umpeban, our difficulties were not a little 
increased by the broken and stony character of the 
country. 

On the 17th, whilst crossing a nameless and insig- 
nificant stream, the treacherous appearance of which 
had induced us to follow a path ploughed by Hippo- 
potami, the pack-waggon became suddenly ingulfed 
in a quagmire. The trektouw, or leathern trace, 
having been nibbled by Alligators, twice snapped in 
the attempt to extricate it by double purchase; and 
all other resources failing, we were at length actu- 
ally compelled to dig it out ! This subsequently 
unfortunate vehicle was shortly afterwards upset for 
the first time during our journey, by the carelessness 
of Frederick, who had been appointed to the post of 
leader of the team, vice April, removed. With one 
hind wheel on the slope of a steep bank, and the 
other in a deep hollow, it vibrated for some seconds, 
as though the turn of a hair were to decide whether 
it should stand or fall. " It's over" — " now it's safe" 
— " No, gone by heavens" burst from half a dozen 



224 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXIII. 



mouths at once; and just sufficient time having elaps- 
ed to admit of the inmates effecting their escape, 
down it went with an appalling crash, the wheels 
appearing uppermost, and the motley contents dis- 
playing themselves in admirable disorder. Peltry, 
merchandise, and hunting trophies — camp furniture, 
tinman's wares, and oilman's stores, were speedily 
strewed upon the plain; whilst ten thousand leaden 
ballets, having been liberated by the sudden shock, 
from th° sacks in which they were put up, might be 
seen ^ina; each other in a race to arrive at the 
lower ground. To a spectator unacquainted with 
the construction of a Cape waggon, no one compo- 
nent part of which is attached to another, this would 
have appeared an irrecoverable and total wreck. In 
the course of two hours, however, every thing was 
in its proper place again, and the vehicle in motion, 
a trifling distortion of the awning being the only 
trace left to remind us of the catastrophe. It serv- 
ed as a lesson nevertheless, to trim the waggons with 
greater care; and as we had now eaten someway 
into the stores, the hunting trophies were removed 
from the awning, to which they had hitherto been 
iashed, and stowed aw T ay in the hold as pig ballast. 
Yet even this precaution did not exempt us from 
further misfortune — the same ill-fated van was again 
overthrown in a few days with most alarming detri- 
ment to its contents — the portable sextant, amongst 



Chap. XXIII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



225 



other things being flattened in one of the side pock- 
ets. 

The third day after crossing the mountains, we 
encamped on the Machachpchan river, near the scene 
of the signal defeat of Barend Barend's Griquas in 
1831, an event to which I have before had occasion 
to allude. A conical mountain, seen from a consi- 
derable distance in every direction, points to tb4 ^ t ; 
and it's base is a perfect Golgotha, thickly strrwad 
with the whitened bones of men and, horses ii 5 vp n 
guns, and tattered furniture. Taking advantage of 
the absence of Moselekatse's army, on an expedi- 
tion against a tribe to the Northward, a thousand 
mounted Bastaards dashed across the River Yaal, 
and obtained possession of vast herds of cattle with- 
out opposition. Elated by success, they were en- 
camped, on their return, in straggling detachments ; 
and whilst slumbering in that ill timed security for 
which the tribe is remarkable, were surprised about 
an hour before day light — the approved opportunity 
in savage warfare — by a band of unpractised soldiers* 
who had been hastily called together to meet the 
emergency. Such was the panic created, that many 
fell by the guns of their comrades, and few indeed 
escaped to tell the fate of the less fortunate. Dowd, 
the Chief whom we met at Daniel's kuil, and Hend- 
rik Hendrik, a Griqua Captain residing at Phillipolis, 
state themselves to be the only survivors of that dis- 

29 



226 



EXPEDITION, &e. [Chap. XXIII. 



astrous day. Ensconced in a thick bush, they kept 
up an incessant fire while their ammunition lasted ; 
jumping on the first horses they could catch, and rid- 
ing for their lives, the instant the dawn appeared. 
The scene of carnage was visited by Moselekatse, 
and as he viewed the carcases of his foes " strewing 
the earth like broken glass/' his exultation knew no 
bounds; the contempt he had entertained for fire 
arms being fully confirmed by this signal defeat. 
Barend Barend, who was infirm in years, had not 
accompanied the invading army beyond the Vaal 
river, but died shortly after the destruction of his 
clan. 



227 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



HUNTING THE CAMELEOPARD, OR GIRAFFE. 

To the sportsman, the most thrilling passage in my 
adventures, is now to be recounted. In my own 
breast, it awakens a renewal of past impressions, more 
lively than any written description can render intel- 
ligible ; and far abler pens than mine, dipped in more 
glowing tints, would still fall short of the reality, 
and leave much to be supplied by the imagination. 
Three hundred gigantic Elephants, browsing in ma- 
jestic tranquillity amidst the wild magnificence of an 
African landscape, and a wide stretching plain, dark- 
ened far as the eye can reach, with a moving pha- 
lanx of Gnoos and Quaggas, whose numbers literal- 
ly baffle computation, are sights but rarely to be 
witnessed; but who amongst our brother Nimrods 
shall hear of riding familiarly by the side of a troop 
of colossal Giraffes, and not feel his spirit stirred 
within him? He that would behold so marvellous 
a sight must leave the haunts of man, and dive, as 
we did, into pathless wilds, traversed only by the 
brute creation — into wide wastes, where the grim 
Lion prowls, monarch of all he surveys, and where 



228 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIV. 



the gaunt Hyaena and Wild Dog fearlessly pursue 
their prey. 

Many days had now elapsed since we had even seen 
the Cameleopard — and then only in smali numbers, 
and under the most unfavorable circumstances. The 
blood coursed through my veins like quicksilver, 
therefore, as on the morning of the 19th, from the 
back of Breslar, my most trusty steed, with a 
firm wooded plain before me, I counted thirty two 
of these animals, industriously stretching their pea- 
cock necks to crop the tiny leaves which fluttered 
above their heads, in a mimosa grove that beauti- 
fied the scenery. They were within a hundred yards 
of me, but having previously determined to try the 
boarding system, I reserved my fire. Although I 
had taken the field expressly to look for Giraffes, and 
had put four of the Hottentots on horseback, all ex- 
cepting Piet had as usual slipped off unperceived in 
pursuit of a troop of Koodoos. Our stealthy approach 
was soon opposed by an ill tempered Rhinoceros, 
which with her ugly calf, stood directly in the path ; 
and the twinkling of her bright little eyes, accompani- 
ed by a restless rolling of the body, giving earnest of 
her intention to charge, I directed Piet to salute her 
with a broadside, at the same moment putting spurs 
to my horse. At the report of the gun, and the 
sudden clattering of hoofs, away bounded the Gi- 
raffes in grostesque confusion — clearing the ground 



Chap. XXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



229 



by a succession of frog-like hops, and soon leaving 
me far in the rear. Twice were their towering 
forms concealed from view by a park of trees, which 
we entered almost at the same instant; and twice on 
emerging from the labyrinth, did I perceive them tilt- 
ing over an eminence immeasurably in advance. A 
white turban, that I wore round my hunting cap, 
being dragged off by a projecting bough, was instant- 
ly charged by three Rhinoceroses; and looking over 
my shoulder, I could see them long afterwards, fag- 
ging themselves to overtake me. In the course 
of five minutes, the fugitives arrived at a small river, 
the treacherous sands of which receiving their long 
legs, their flight was greatly retarded; and after 
floundering to the opposite side, and scrambling to the 
top of the bank, I perceived that their race was run. 
Patting the steaming neck of my good steed, I urged 
him again to his utmost, and instantly found myself 
by the side of the herd. The stately bull, being 
readily distinguishable from the rest by his dark 
chesnut robe, and superior stature, I applied the 
muzzle of my rifle behind his dappled shoulder, with 
the right hand, and drew both triggers ; but he still 
continued to shuffle along, and being afraid of los- 
ing him, should I dismount, among the extensive mi- 
mosa groves, with which the landscape was now ob- 
scured, I sat in my saddle, loading and firing behind 
the elbow, and then placing myself across his path, 



230 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIV. 



until, the tears trickling from his full brilliant eye, 
his lofty frame began to totter, and at the seventeenth 
discharge from the deadly grooved bore, bowing his 
graceful head from the skies his proud form was 
prostrate in the dust. Never shall I forget the tin- 
gling excitement of that moment! Alone, in the wild 
wood, I hurried with bursting exultation, and un- 
saddling my steed, sank exhausted beside the noble 
prize I had won. 

When I leisurely contemplated the massive frame 
before me, seeming as though it had been cast in a 
mould of brass, and protected by a hide of an inch 
and a half in thickness, it was no longer matter of 
astonishment that a bullet discharged from a dis- 
tance of eighty or ninety yards should have been at- 
tended with little effect upon such amazing strength. 
The extreme height from the crown of the elegantly 
moulded head to the hoof of this magnificent animal, 
was eighteen feet; the whole being equally divided 
into neck, body, and leg. Two hours were passed 
incompleting a drawing; and Piet still not making 
his appearance, I cut off the tail, which exceeded 
five feet in length, and was measurelessly the most es- 
timable trophy I had gained ; but proceeding to sad- 
dle my horse, which I had left quietly grazing by the 
side of a running brook, my chagrin may be conceiv- 
ed, when I discovered that he had taken advantage 
of my occupation to free himself from his halter, and 



Chap. XXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 281 

abscond. Being ten miles from the waggons, and in 
a perfectly strange country, I felt convinced that the 
only chance of recovering my pet, was by following 
the trail, whilst doing which with infinite difficulty, 
the ground scarcely deigning to receive a foot-print, 
I had the satisfaction of meeting Piet and Mohany- 
com, who had fortunatly seen and recaptured the 
truant. Returning to the Giraffe, we all feasted 
heartily upon the flesh, which although highly scented 
at this season, with the rank Mokaala blossoms, was 
far from despicable ; and after losing our way in con- 
sequence of the twin- like resemblance of two scarp- 
ed hills, we regained the waggons after sunset. 

The spell was now broken, and the secret of 
Cameleopard hunting discovered. The next day 
Kichardson and myself killed three ; one, a female, 
slipping upon muddy ground, and falling with great 
violence, before she had been wounded, a shot in the 
head despatching her as she lay. From this time we 
could reckon confidently upon two out of each troop 
that we were fortunate enough to find, always ap- 
proaching as near as possible, in order to ensure a 
good start, galloping into the middle of them, hoard- 
ing the largest, and riding with him until he fell. The 
rapidity with which these awkwardly formed animals 
can move, is beyond all things surprising, our best 
horses being unable to close with them under two 
miles. Their gallop is a succession of jumping 



232 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIV. 



strides, the fore and hind leg on the same side mov- 
ing together instead of diagonally, as in most other 
quadrupeds, the former being kept close together,- 
and the latter so wide apart, that in riding by the 
animals side, the hoof may be seen striking on the 
outside of the horse, momentarily threatening to 
overthrow him. Its motion altogether, reminded 
me rather of the pitching of a ship, or rolling of a 
rocking horse, than of any thing living; and the 
remarkable gait is rendered still more automaton- 
like, by the switching, at regular intervals, of the 
long black tail, which is invariably curled above 
the back, and by the corresponding action of the 
neck, swinging as it does like a pendulum, and lite- 
rally imparting to the animal the appearance of a 
piece of machinery in motion. Naturally gentle, 
timid, and peaceable, the unfortunate Giraffe has no 
means of protecting itself but with its heels; but 
even when hemmed into a corner, it seldom resorted 
to this mode of defence. I have before noticed the 
courage evinced by our horses, in the pursuit of game. 
Even when brought into actual contact with these 
almost unearthly quadrupeds, they evinced no symp- 
tom of alarm, a circumstance which may possible be 
traced to their meagre diet. 

The colossal height, and apparent disproportions 
of this extraordinary animal, long classed it with 
the Unicorn, and the Sphinx of the ancients, and 



Chap. XXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



233 



induced a belief that it belonged rather to the group of 
Chimeras with which the regions of imagination are 
tenanted, than existed amongst the actual works of 
nature. Of its form and habits, no very precise 
notions were obtained, until within the last forty 
years; and even now, the extant delineations are far 
from the truth, having been taken from crippled pri- 
soners instead of from specimens free in their native 
deserts, The Giraffe is by no means a common 
animal, even at its head quarters. We seldom found 
them without having followed the trail, and never 
saw more than five and thirty in a day.* The senses 
of sight, hearing, and smell, are acute and delicate; 
the eyes, which are soft and gentle, eclipsing those of 
the oft sung gazelle of the East, and being so con- 
structed that without turning the head, the animal 
can see both before and behind it at the same time. 
On the forehead, there is a remarkable prominence; 
and the tongue has the power of mobility increased 
to an extraordinary degree, accompanied with the 

* A traveller whom I met in the Cape Colony, assured me 
before I \isited the interior, that he had himself counted 
eight hundred Giraffes in a single day; and during his 
travels, had ridden down hundreds. On my return, however 
after a little cross examination, the number destroyed dwin- 
dled gradually down into one; which solitary individual ap- 
peared, upon further investigation, to have been taken in a 
pit-fall! 

30 



234 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXIV. 



faculty of extension, which enables it, in miniature, to 
perform the office of the Elephant's proboscis. The 
lofty maned neck, possessing only seven joints, ap- 
pears to move on a pivot, instead of being flexible 
like that of the Swan or Peacock, to which, from its 
length, it has been likened. 

The Giraffe utters no cry whatever. Both sexes 
have horns, covered with hair, and are similarly 
marked with an angular and somewhat symmetrical 
pattern. The male increases in depth of eolor r 
according to the age, and in some specimens is near- 
ly black; but the female is smaller in stature, and of 
a lighter color, approaching to yellow. Although 
very extensive, the range of its habitat is exclusive- 
ly confined to those regions in which the species of 
mimosa termed mokaala, or Kameel-doom is abun- 
dant, the leaves, shoots, and blossoms, of that tree 
being its ordinary food. 

On the £2d, being encamped on the banks of a 
small stream, a Cameleopard was killed by a Lion, 
whilst in the act of drinking at no great distance 
from the waggons. It was a noisy affair, but an 
inspection of the scene on which it occurred, proved 
that the giant strength of the victim had been para- 
lysed in an instant. Authors have asserted that the 
king of beasts is sometimes carried fifteen or twen- 
ty miles, s< riding proudly" on the back of the Gi. 



€hap. XXIY.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



235 



raflfe; but notwithstanding the amazing power of 
this superb animal, I am disposed to question his 
ability to maintain a race under such merciless jock- 
ey ship! 



236 



CHAPTER XXV. 



RETURN TO THE SOUTHWARD FROM THE TROPIC OF 

CAPRICORN. 

Although hunting the Cameleopard, we continued 
to advance to the Northward, by marches of ten and 
fifteen miles a day, over extensive rugged tracts, strew- 
ed with numerous stone walls, once thronged by thou- 
but now presenting no vestige of inhabitants. Wher- 
ever we turned, the hand of the Destroyer was appa- 
rent: 

— cc The locusts wasting swarm, 

Which mightiest nations dread," 

is not more destructive to vegetation, than he has 
been to the population of this section of Southern 
Africa. We frequently travelled for days without 
meeting a solitary human being — occasionally only 
falling in with the small and starving remnant of 
some pastoral tribe of Bechuana, that had been plun- 
dered by Moselekatse's warriors. These famished 
wretches, some of whom had been herding the King's 
cattle during the absence of Kalipi's Commando, ho- 
vered around us, disputing with Vultures and Hyaenas 
the carcases we left, which they devoured with such 



Chap. XXV.] EXPEDITION, *o, 237 



brutish avidity as scarcely to leave a bone to attest 
the slaughter. 

The moon was full on the night of the 2 '3rd, and 
a spotted, or " laughing" Hyasna, superior in size to 
the largest mastiff, was shot through the head, by 
the clear light it afforded, as he was in the act of 
skulking under the sheep-pen. The great muscular 
power of this animal, which is called by the Colo- 
nists, "the Wolf/* renders it exceedingly formidable; 
the difficulty of determining the sex, being the most 
remarkable feature it possesses. On the 27th we 
again encamped on the banks of the Limpopo, in 
which a Buffalo was shot as it was swimming across. 
Few other sporting incidents occurred of an extra- 
ordinary character, except the death of a very large 
black Rhinoceros, which being pent up in an old 
stone enclosure* received no less than twenty-seven 
shots before it fell. A troop of Brindled Gnoos, 
being pursued by another of these animals, dashed 
into a narrow defile in the hills, at the outlet of which, 
having stationed myself, T disposed of two with each 
barrel. 

As we approached the junction of the Mariqua 
with the Limpopo, in about latitude 24° 10', bushes 
usurped the place of trees; the country daily be- 
came less inviting, and the game in consequence 
less and less abundant, although a supply was still al- 
ways to be obtained. The few inhabitants that we 



238 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXV. 



now met with, refused to hold any communication 
with our escort — seating themselves at a distance, 
and declining the proferred snuff-box. These men 
were the wreck of the Bakone or Baquaina, once 
the most powerful and prosperous cf the Bechuana 
nations. Conquered by Moselekatse, however, and 
Caama* their King having been slain, they fled to 
this part of the country, and are now reduced to an 
extremity of misery and want, little short of actual 
starvation— the emaciated forms of many too plainly 
testifying to their precarious means of subsistence. 

The obtaining of information relative to the coun- 
try and inhabitants had uniformly been attended with 
much difficulty ; but our guides, who had evidently 
received instructions from the King, to entice us as 
far as possible from the scene of contention with the 
Emigrant Boors, in the hope of eventually inducing 
us to return by Kapain, instead of by the Likwa, be- 
ing now apprised of our intention of discontinuing our 
journey Northward, brought seven savages who vo- 
lunteered information regarding the great inland 
lake, and even proposed for a suitable remuneration 
in beads, to accompany us thither as guides. They 
stated that this vast fresh water sea, towards the dis- 
covery of which geographical attention has long 
been directed, and the existence of which was first 



* King Hartebeest I 



Chap. XXV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



239 



fully established by Dr Smith's expedition, might 
easily be reached from our present position in two 
moons, through the country of the Bukaws; a small 
intervening desert tract being passable at this season, 
and the recent heavy rains having filled the pools upon 
which the supply of water depends. Nothing could 
be more tantalizing than this proposal made at a time 
when our oxen were in superb condition, our sup- 
plies abundant, and our followers in better heart 
than usual; but knowing from experience how little 
reliance can be placed upon a savage's estimate of 
distance, we were not without reasona^e apprehen- 
sions of being detained beyond the Bukaws until 
after next rains, and thus exceeding our leave. All 
circumstances but this, conspiring to favour both the 
successful continuance of our journey, and the dis 
covery of the "great water," — it was with feelings 
of no ordinary regret and disappointment, that we 
felt ourselves thus compelled to return, at the very 
moment when a prize of such value appeared actually 
within our grasp. 

Although not more than fifty miles to the South 
of the tropic of Capricorn, we did not find the heat by 
any means oppressive; a circumstance which was of 
course in a great measure to be attributed to the 
season. After the thunderstorm which usually ush- 
ered in the night, the mornings had been always re- 
markably cool ; and even during the middle of the day 



240 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXV. 



the range of the thermometer in the waggons had 
rarely exceeded 85°. Before turning to the South- 
ward, we crossed the Limpopo, and made an excursion 
of forty miles to the North-eastward, on horseback, 
with a design of determining the course assumed by 
this interesting feature in the geography of Southern 
Africa. So far as it was possible to comprehend the 
descriptions given by savages, which are not the 
clearest in the world, this river, after being joined 
by another, called the Clabatz, or Balapatse, which 
rises in the Mural mountains, turns suddenly through 
that chain, and flows into the unexplored country of 
the Babariri, towards Delagoa, distant probably 
about three hundred and fifty miles. This account 
is in a great measure confirmed by information given 
me by David Hume, an exceedingly clear headed, 
observing traveller. By whomsoever it may eventu- 
ally be traced, therefore, the Limpopo will in all pro- 
bability be found identical with the Manice, the ri- 
ver which was surveyed by Captain Owen, from its 
embouchure in Delagoa bay, as far as latitude £5° 
21' South, and longitude 32° 52' East. 

For the satisfaction of those of my readers, who 
take an interest in the geography of the African 
quarter of the globe, it may be proper here to state, 
that with a view of ascertaining our position on the 
map, I adopted the very simple, but excellent method 
pursued by Burchell, during his travels. The exact 



Chap. XXV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 241 



distance passed over each day was calculated by a 
table, computed from the circumference of the larger 
waggon wheel, multiplied by the number of revolu- 
tions performed per minute; the time that the vehicle 
was actually in motion being carefully noted by an 
inside passenger, as well as the course by compass. 
This plan, with occasional correction from the now 
broken pocket sextant, used on a sheet of pasteboard 
by way of false horizon, had determined our posi- 
tion in so level a country with sufficient accuracy. 
Rude as it may appear, few inland portions of this 
vast continent, have been surveyed by a more scien- 
tific process ; and during the early part of our jour- 
ney, especially while travelling between known 
points, I had frequent opportunities of satisfying 
myself of its practical correctness. 

Judging therefore, from a minute daily register 
kept throughout our journey, we must now have 
been about the tropic, our distance to the North of 
the known latitude of Mosega being upwards of 
one hundred and fifty miles. We retraced our steps 
on the 1st December, the previous night having been 
passed at a kraal of starving Baquaina, for whom 
we had killed a Rhinoceros. Fearful indeed was 
the uproar that attended the division of the carcase 
— a large party of ladies, possessing remarkably 
slender wardrobes, rushing forth like witches, and 
leaving nothing in the course of a few hours but a 
pool of blood. 

31 



242 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXV. 



Thus far we bad been treated by the guides with 
tolerable civility. No sooner, however, bad we turn- 
ed to the Southward than they began to evince the 
greatest impatience at their detention, complaining 
loudly of their limited rations of snuff and bread, 
and insolently urging our return to the Cashan 
mountains with all expedition, upon the plea that the 
King would be displeased at our making so long a 
stay ; His Majesty having, they said, instructed them 
that we were only to hunt during one moon. Know- 
ing this to be false, we continued bunting Giraffes, 
and paid little attention to their remonstrances; but 
on arriving opposite the scene of the Griqua defeat, 
we were joined on the 6th by four Matabili warriors 
frGm Kapain, who stated that they had been follow- 
ing our waggon tracks, by command of the King, 
for ten days past, in order peremptorily to direct our 
return to the Cashan mountains, where we should be 
met by cur friend Uin'Nombate, who had a further 
message to communicate. This mysterious intimation 
bad the effect of conjuring back the dormant appre- 
hensions of the Hottentots; Andries, as usual, gloom- 
ily persisting that the King had never intended to 
let us go through by the Vaal river, and was now 
about to recal the permission we had extorted. Al- 
though we stoutly combatted these dismal forebod- 
ings, there really appeared to be some groui:ds for 
entertaining them — it being impossible to imagine 



Chap. XXV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



243 



why else the minister should have been sent. The 
result of our deliberations however, was, that noth- 
ing short of main force should induce us to relinquish 
the permission we had purchased ; and that having 
successfully struggled thus far with difficulties and 
annoyances, we would now 

" Not bate a jot 

Of heart or hope, but still bear up and steer 
Right onwards." 

With this determination we hurried our advance to- 
wards a large Matabili kraal, which, situated to the 
North of the Cashan range among a group cf pyr- 
amidbal hills, had been selected as the point of ren- 
dezvous with the ambassador. On arriving there 
however, crowds of both sexes issuing forth, we 
were informed that he was still a day's journey 
in advance; and were thus provoking 1 )* hurried from 
place to place, until lato on the evening of the 
8th, when we reached a small collection of deserted 
wigwams, on the Sant river, immediately under the 
mountains. But even here we were destined to 
experience further disappointment and suspense — - 
the Catiff guides declaring that the object of cur 
search, who was still not forthcoming, must have 
been asleep in one of the kraals that we had passed 
in the morning ! Suspecting the story of his advent 
to be a hoax, invented merely to annoy us, we 
now distinctly intimated to the messengers, that if 



244 EXPEDITION, &c. [Chap. XXV. 



the minister did not make his appearance in the 
course of the following forenoon, we should not wait 
for him ; and with this understanding, they left the 
waggons, accompanied by the guides, faithfully prom- 
ising to return with the great man in the morning. 



245 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



INTERVIEW WITH UM'NOMBATE, AND JOURNEY 
THROUGH THE CASHAN MOUNTAINS TO 
THE SOUTH-EASTWARD. 

Contrary to our expectations, Um'Nombate was 
actually descried at an early hour the next morning, 
approaching our waggons with a large retinue and 
three wretched oxen. The important preliminary of 
snuff-taking having been duly concluded, the craf- 
ty old courtier, without making the slightest allusion 
to the object of his visit, delivered abundant compli- 
ments on the part of His Majesty, regarding whose 
august health we made befitting enquiries. The ta- 
ble having in the mean time been spread with dainty 
viands, amongst the most inviting of which I may be 
permitted to notice a pile of Rhinoceros' steaks, we 
proceeded to breakfast, and were not a little diverted 
by the grand vizier's uncouth attempts at the use of 
the knife and fork. Copying the polished example 
set by Mrs. John Smith of Somerset, he presently 
cut the corner of his mouth, repeatedly placing his 
sight in imminent jeopardy, by bringing his hand to 
the bleeding orifice, instead of the point of the fork, 
which, loaded with meat, appeared above his head. 



246 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVI. 



His son, a fine young savage to whom we were for- 
mally introduced, sat upon a tar barrel at the head 
of the table, but wisely preferred making use of his 
nails and assagai; whilst the retinue, squatting them- 
selves behind the old man's chair, quarrelled like 
dogs for the scraps which he was pleased from time 
to time to throw to them. In the course of a few min- 
utes, the board was swept of its smoking load, and 
tea having been baled out of a large kettle to 
the whole party, the repast was concluded by the 
greedy consumption of half a pound of snuff. 

After a long and mysterious conference with the 
guides, which was conducted at a distance, in an un- 
der tone of voice and with great earnestness, Um'- 
Nombate proceeded to open the business of his em- 
bassy by presenting to each of us first, and then to 
Andries, a Leopard's skin, a bag of kafir corn, and 
a scrubby ox. The animal sent expressly for An- 
dries besides being hornless,, was wall-eyed on the 
dexter side — a peculiarity which elicited many per- 
sonal jokes at the expense of our trusty follower, 
whom His Majesty, when in merry mood, was in 
the habit of addressing by the familiar soubriquet of 
Mutlee or cock-eye. The pleasantry of the conceit 
being fully appreciated, that designation was imme- 
diately bestowed upon the Ox; and we learned short- 
ly afterwards that Andries had engaged to return 
from the Colony, and enter the despot's service, upon 



Chap. XXVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



247 



condition of being rewarded by the hand of Truey 
the Griqua captive. 

After a few unimportant remarks relative to the 
country we had visited, the game, and the liberal 
supply of rain, which it had been the King's gracious 
pleasure to send us, the ambassador proceeded without 
further preamble, to disclose his important errand, 
by acquainting us with His Majesty's sudden deter- 
mination to become the proprietor of a fowling 
piece upon the detonating principle ; at the same time 
declaring his own readiness immediately to receive 
charge of the weapon, together with any other trifling 
presents that w 7 e might be desirous of sending. We 
evaded compliance with the first part of this very 
modest demand, by promising, when the Elephant 
hunting should be concluded, to send a gun by our 
escort, party on its return from the Vaal river; at the 
same time meeting the spirit of the request, by pro- 
ducing another coil of the identical brass wire which 
had proved so attractive at Kapain — 'several articles 
of crockery w r are — a gross of gilt regimental buttons, 
— and a brown jug, with raised representations of 
Toby Philpot in five different stages of intoxication 
— from which most appropriate vessel we begged that 
His Majestj would be pleased to quaff hisbaer in fu- 
ture. 

The mention of the Vaal river passing off without 
any remark, our anxiety on that score was relieved; 



243 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVI. 



and the jug having been duly admired, we proceeded 
to complain of the mutinous behaviour of the guides, 
who we requested might be exchanged for others. 
Mohanycom being the channel through which this 
communication must pass had an opportunity of 
distorting it as he pleased, and delivered a smooth 
honied speech in reply, the substance of which was 
that no further difficulties would be made. A war- 
rior answering to the name of Maphook, was then 
directed by the ambassador to reinforce our escort; 
and having duly enlisted himself under our banner, 
they all received injunctions to accompany us, by any 
route we fancied, to the Vaal river but on no ac- 
count to return thence without the percussion gun. 

Having requested Um'Nombate to express to his 
Royal Master the gratification that we had derived 
from our visit to his extensive preserves, I proceeded 
to the exhibition of the drawings I had made of the 
different game animals which was attended with the 
usual theatric effect. The production of " the noble 
Elephant/' caused an involuntary elevation of the eye- 
lids, although no remark was made. On seeing the 
Giraffe, every one exclaimed 9 Intootla! 'Intootla!! 
'Intootla ! ! ! at the same time standing on tip- toe, 
and stretching his neck to the utmost extent. Tao, or 
the Lion, caused a general flourish of weapons and 
beating of shields; and 'Imfooboo, the Hippopota- 
mus, whilst it nearly threw the old man into fits, 



Chap. XXVI,] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



249 



elicited the observation that I "undoubtedly took 
very strong medicine! After some other equally 
sapient remarks, the peer arose, and reminding us of 
his Sovereign's caution to return by Kuruman if we 
visited him again, which he trusted we would, took 
leave of us in the usual manner, and set out on his 
return carrying the brown jug in his own hand. 

We forthwith continued our journey to the South- 
eastward with renewed spirits, passing through the 
mountains by the opening described in a former chap- 
ter, and arriving with some hair breadth escapes, at 
one of our former stations on the South side of the 
range. The next day, our route lying across a 
belt of hillocks with many steep acclivities, our 
progress was repeatedly delayed by the breaking of 
one of the tow ropes, the half starved dogs of the 
savages, which not unfrequently devoured the veldt- 
scoen, or untanned leather shoes of our followers, 
having at our last station gnawed through some of 
the straps. A large herd of wild Buffaloes being- 
observed at a little distance, my companion and my- 
self mounted our horses, and soon despatched 
a splendid bull. Whilst several of the followers 
were employed in flaying the animal, we returned to 
the waggons, and sent Andries with a pack-horse for 
the hide, of which a new trek touio was to be manu- 
factured. He presently returned at speed, to ac- 
quaint us that Piet had been badly wounded in the 

32 



250 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVI. 



leg by the accidental discharge of a gun ; and 'Lin- 
gap who accompanied him, after pointing with breath- 
less dismay to a hole perforated by the same bullet 
through his own shield, proceeded to a minute prac- 
tical illustration of the affair, by placing Andries* 
elumsy piece against a tree in such a way, that it also 
fell down, and was discharged, but fortunately with- 
out doing further mischief. The unhappy Piet was 
brought in shortly afterwards, when our nervous anxi- 
ety respecting him were not a little relieved by an in- 
spection of the limb, which although dreadfully burnt 
and lacerated was providentially unbroken. Our skill 
in surgery being exercised with good effect, the 
wound healed rapidly ; and I, feeling obliged to the 
patient for the little assistance he had occasionally 
afforded me in the field, again resigned my cot to 
him during the day; a piece of kindness, which, like 
the rest of his unthankful tribe, he mistook for weak- 
ness, repaying me in the end by the grossest ingrati- 
tude. 

Every feature of this part of the country was 
beautiful beyond description. Grassy meads, span- 
gled with brilliant flowers, extended between rich 
masses of grove and forest. Stately trees were fes- 
tooned with clambering vines, or scented creepers. 
Here the gorgeous aloe reared its coral tufts above 
the olive brake — and there the meadows were flushed 
with the crimson or lilac hues of the poppy, and 



Chap. XXVL] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



251 



amaryllis. Amongst a variety of animals, a herd of 
Elephants was visible from the waggons; and the 
next day, from the top of a commanding eminence, 
we again saw the face of the highly picturesqne land- 
scape covered with these stately beasts browsing in 
indolent security, and bathing in the pellucid stream. 
Upon being attacked, one hundred at least, 

c< Trampling their path through wood and brake, 
And canes which crackling fell before their way,' 5 

rushed franticly down a ravine, with upraised ears, 
and tossing trunks, screaming wildly, and levelling 
every thing before them. A shot fired from the 
bank, while it sealed the fate of the leader, turned 
the rest back again, and this persecution was re- 
peated until they became fairly stupified. On one 
occasion they attempted to retrieve the day by a 
headlong charge from several quarters at the same 
moment, and we were often so surrounded by small 
detachments, that it appeared doubtful which party 
would be obliged to quit the field. The sound of 
our voices however uniformly turned the scale, and 
declared man the victor. Among several hundred 
females and calves, we could find but one bull, and 
as we were tracking him on horseback through a 
heavy forest by his life blood welling from fifty 
wounds, a savage Rhinoceros dashed out of a bush 
into the very middle of our party, overthrowing seve- 
ral, but injuring none, Andries, though he was 



252 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXVI. 



ever thrusting upon us his code of sage laws regard- 
ing Elephant hunting, was always the first to infringe 
it; and wantonly firing at a peaceably disposed 
Rhinoceros, while we were upon the hot trail of Ele- 
phants in the early part of the day, his horse got 
away, and he was knocked over; the damage sus- 
tained by the hinder part of his leathern trowsers, 
which were rent by the animal's horn, proving how 
nearly we had been bereft for ever of his valuable 
services. 

Both our vehicles were now so crammed with spo- 
lia that being unable to find room for any more 
ivory, we were reluctantly compelled to leave the 
ground strewed with that valuable commodity. Great 
difficulty was experienced in getting our heavily la- 
den waggons clear of the formidable belt of wooded 
hillocks which, intersected by deep ravines, form the 
suburbs of the Cash an range. In some places, 
the paths worn by the huge tenants of this almost 
trackless region being too narrow, it was found 
necessary to send a party of pioneers to widen them 
—thus literally cutting our way through the country, 
and making the hitherto silent forest ring to the un- 
wonted sound of the axe. 

Scarcely a day passed without our seeing two 
or three Lions, but like the rest of the animal crea- 
tion, they uniformly retreated when disturbed by 
the approach of man However troublesome we 



Chap. XXVi.J SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



253 



found the instrusions of the feline race during the 
night, they seldom at any other time, showed the 
least disposition to molest us, unless we commenced 
hostilities ; and this, owing to the badness of the hor- 
ses, we rarely felt disposed to do. Returning one 
afternoon with Maphook to a Koodoo that I had 
shot, in order to take up the head, which I had con- 
cealed in a bush, I was surprised to find an enor- 
mous Lion * feasting upon the carcase ; an odious 
assemblage of eager vultures, as usual, garrisoning 
the trees, and awaiting their turn when the gorged 
monarch should make way for them. Immediately 
upon my appearance, he walked heavily off, ex- 
pressing by a stifled growl his displeasure at being 
thus unceremoniously disturbed at dinner. It was 
not destined, however, that our acquaintance should 
cease here ; for passing the scene of this introductory 
interview the following morning, Richardson and my- 
self were suddenly made aware of the monster's pre- 
sence by perceiving a pair of gooseberry eyes glaring 
upon us from beneath a shady bush ; and instantly 
upon reining up our horses, the grim savage bolted 
out with a roar, like thunder, and bounded across 
the plain with the agility of a grey hound. The 
luxuriant beauty of his shaggy black mane, which 
almost swept the ground, tempted us contrary to 



* Feiis Leo, 



Delineated in the African Views, 



254 



EXPEDITION INTO {Chap. XXVI. 



established rule, to give him battle with the design of 
obtaining possession of his spoils; and he no sooner 
found himself hotly pursued than be faced about, 
and stood at bay in a mimosa grove, measuring the 
strength of his assailants with a port the most noble 
and imposing. Disliking our appearance however, 
and not relishing the smell of gunpowder, he soon 
abandoned the grove, and took up his position on 
the summit of an adjacent stony hill, the base of 
which being thickly clothed with thorn trees, we 
could only obtain a view of him from the distance of 
three hundred yards. Crouched on this fortified 
pinnacle, like the sculptured figure at the entrance 
of a nobleman's park, the enemy disdainfully sur- 
veyed us for several minutes, daring us to approach 
with an air of conscious power and pride, which well 
beseemed his grizzled form. As the rifle balls struck 
the ground nearer and nearer at each discharge, his 
wrath, as indicated by his glistening eyes, increased 
roar, and impatient switching of the tail, was clearly 
getting the mastery over his prudence. Presently a 
shot broke his leg. Down he came upon the other 
three, with reckless impetuosity, his tail straight out 
and whirling on its axis, his mane bristling on end, 
and his eye balls flashing rage and vengeance. Un« 
able however to overtake our horses, he shortly re- 
treated under a heavy fire, limping and discomfited 
to his strong hold. Again we bombarded him, and 



Chap. XXVI.} SOUTHERN AFRICA, 255 



again exasperated, he rushed into the. plain with 
headlong fury — the blood now streaming from his 
open jaws, and dying his mane with crimson. It 
was a gallant charge, but it was to be his last. A 
well directed shot arresting him in full career, he 
pitched with violence upon his skull, and throwing 
a complete somerset, subsided amid a cloud of dust 



256 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



DISCOVERY OF A NEW ANTELOPE, AND FINAL DE- 
PARTURE FROM THE CASHAN MOUNTAINS, 
TOWARDS THE RIVER VAAL. 

The list of large animals killed during the Cam- 
paign, now exceeded four hundred head of various 
sorts and sizes. Of these the minimum height at the 
shoulder had been three feet, and not a few had mea- 
sured ten and twelve. Within the last few days, I 
had obtained several superb specimens, especially of 
the Koodoo and Bastard Gemsbok; and excepting 
some of the smaller antelopes^ which only occur in 
parts of the country that we were subsequently to 
visit, my collection of horns and exuvice had by this 
time extended itself to every known species of game 
quadruped in Southern Africa. But a still prouder 
trophy than all, was yet in abeyance, and before 
leaving this hunters' Elysium, my researches were to 
be crowned by a truly splendid addition to the cata- 
logue of Mammalia. 

My double barrelled rifle having again suffered in 
a fall with my horse, I took the field on the 1 3th De- 
cember with a heavy weapon constructed upon the 
primitive principle of flint and steel, which, as a pis 



Chap. XXVII,] EXPEDITION, &c, 



35? 



aller, I had obtained from Mr. Moffat* Our party 
were in full pursuit of a wounded Elephant, when a 
herd of unusually dark looking Antelopes attracted 
observation in an adjacent valley. Reconnoitring 
them through a pocket telescope from the acclivity 
on which we stood, I at once exclaimed that they 
were perfectly new to science ; and having announced 
my determination of pursuing them, if requisite, to 
the world's end, I dashed down the slope, followed 
by the derision of the Hottentots, for my unsports- 
manlike attention to an ' i ugly buck," one specimen 
of which, however, I assured them, I would rather have 
possessed than all the Elephants in Africa ! In an in- 
stant I was in the middle of the herd, which was then 
crossing the valley — nine chesnut colored does lead- 
ing, and two magnificent coal black bucks— all with 
scimitar shaped horns — bringing up the rear. Has= 
tily dismounting, I was delighted to observe them 
stand for a few seconds within fifty yards, and stare 
at me with amazement. In vain was it however^ 
that I pulled the trigger of my rifle ; three several 
times the heavy machinery of the lock descended with 
alarming vehemence, but no report followed the con- 
cussion ; and the herd having in the mean time as- 
cended a steep hill, I fairly rode my horse to a stand 
in the attempt to overtake them. Cursing my hard 
fortune, as I dashed the hateful weapon to the ground, 
I hastened to the camp, to repair my broken rifle ; 

33 



258 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVII. 



armed with which, and mounted on a fresh steed I 
returned with my companion to the spot ; where, hav- 
ing taken up the foot marks, we followed them, with 
unwearied perseverance among the hills, during the 
whole of that and the following day, without attaining 
even a glimpse of the objects of our quest. At noon 
of the third day, however, peeping cautiously over a 
bank, our laudable assiduity was rewarded by the 
gratifying sight of the two bucks grazing by them- 
selves, unconscious of our approach, in a stony val- 
ley. Having disposed our forces, after a moment's 
consultation, so as to intercept the game from a tan- 
gled labyrinth of ravines, the attack was made. The 
hind leg of the handsomer of the two was dangling 
in an instant, and in another he was sprawling on 
the earth. Quickly recovering himself however, he 
led me more than a mile over the sharp stones ere he 
was brought to bay, when twice charging gallantly, 
he was at length overthrown, and slain. 

It were vain to attempt a description of the sensa- 
tions I experienced, when thus, after three days of 
toilsome tracking, and feverish anxiety unalleviat- 
ed by any incident that could inspire the smallest 
hope of ultimate success, I at length found myself 
in actual possession of so brilliant an addition to the 
riches of Natural History. My prize evidently be- 
longed to the Antilopine subgenus Jligocerus, and 
was equal in stature to a large galloway. The horns. 



Chap. XXVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



259 



which were fiat, and upwards of three feet in length 
swept gracefully over the back in the form of a cres- 
cent. A bushy black mane extended from the lively 
chesnut colored ears, to the middle of the back; the 
tail was long and tufted ; and the glossy jet black 
hue of the greater portion of the body, contrasted 
beautifully with a snow-white face and belly.* 1 
thought I could never have looked at, or admired it 
sufficiently. A drawing and description having been 
completed on the spot, the skin was carefully 



* The following were the dimensions of this singular and 
beautiful Antelope, which is faithfully depicted in the African 
Views. 



Inches, j 

Height at the wither., 54 

Length of body , 44 

Ditto neck 17 

Do. head 19 

Do. tail 25 

Do. hind quarter 19 

Depth of chest 30 

Length of fore arm , . » « .... 16 

Fore knee to foot 15 

Height of mane. 6£ 



| Inches. 

Croup to hock .36 

Hock to foot 18£ 

Bteadth of fore arm.... 6 

Ditto thigh . . . , 6 

Do. fore leg. 2£ 

Do. hind leg 3 

Do. neck. > 16 

Length of horns 37 

Asunder at base 1 

Ditto tips 9£ 

Length of ears 10 



During the first day, I had opportunities of distinctly re- 
marking that the females were all furnished with crescent 
shaped horns; and although of smaller stature than the 
males, were similarly marked — a deep chesnut brown taking 
the place of jet black. The species was evidently not re- 
cognized by the natives, although to conceal their ignorance^ 
they pronounced it to be Kookaam, which signifies the Oryx, 
an animal of such extremely rare occurrence in Moselekat- 
se's country, that they had in all probability never seen it 



260 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVII. 



removed and conveyed upon a pack horse in triumph 
to the camp ; and it may possibly interest those of 
my readers, who shall have followed me during the 
last three days, to learn, that I succeeded, with infi- 
nite difficulty, in bringing this unique and interesting 
specimen of African Zoology, in a state of high pre- 
servation to Cape Town ; where in October last, it 
was elegantly set up by Monsieur Verreaux, the 
French Naturalist, and obligingly taken to England, 
by my well known friend Captain Alexander, 42d 
Royal Highlanders. 

Notwithstanding the arrangements made by Um- 
? Nombate, our escort was daily becoming more un- 
ruly and impatient ; and upon our attempting to move 
some miles further to the Eastward, in order if pos- 
sible to obtain a female specimen of the new species, 
they positively refused to accompany us in any di- 
rection but that of the Vaal river. The most tempt- 
ing bribes failed to shake their resolution ; and upon 
our threatening to send an express to the King, for 
w r hich duty Andries eagerly volunteered, they sat 
sullenly grinding tobacco with the most provoking 
indifference. Just at this time, the murrain attacked 
our oxen; and the horses moreover, being so galled 
and reduced in condition that many were unfit for 
further work? it was resolved that since the objects 
of our expedition had been thus far fully accomplish- 
ed, we should at once set out upon our return to the 
Colony by the unexplored route. 



Chap. XXVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



261 



Right joyfully was this announcement received 
by our followers. Ever discontented with their pre- 
sent lot, the Hottentots had long impatiently sighed 
for the drunken brawls of the canteen, and the be- 
witching smiles of their absent sweethearts. Cceur 
de Lion could instantly perceive in dim perspective 
the auspicious termination of his perils by sea and 
land ; nor was the worshipper of the cow, in his turn, 
less pleased at the increased prospect of escape from 
a land so little suited to the prejudices of his caste. 
The bovine appearance of most of the African ani- 
mals, having precluded this faithful follower from 
partaking of their flesh, he had suffered greater pri- 
vations than any one, and had not unfrequently been 
compelled to observe a fast. Without a moment's 
loss of time, Kobus repaired his dilapidated violin, 
which in a fit of passion he had broken over a com- 
rade's head : and a wild-peppermint-tea party, with 
dancing to its discordant notes round our gipsy fire, 
celebrated the approaching termination of the cam= 
paign. 

At noon on the 1 6th of December then,, bidding 
a final adieu to the enchanting forests of Cashan, we 
turned our faces to the Southward, and having cross- 
ed a small range of hills, which were all that divided 
us from the vast plains of the Vaal river, entered 
at once upon a new region, totally different in char- 
acter from all that we had hitherto traversed, Such 



262 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVII. 



had been the recent abundance of water, that our 
people had for some time past allowed the wholesome 
practise of filling the water flagons, to fall into desue- 
tude; and we had in consequence the felicity of 
passing the night without any of that necessary, al- 
though we travelled until dark in the hope of finding- 
it. A ponderous bull Eland, with only one horn, 
being observed in the neighbourhood, Richardson and 
myself drove him up to the caravan, where his blood 
was eagerly quaffed both by the savages and Hotten- 
tots. 

In the total absence of material for the construc- 
tion of a pound, the cattle became so restless during 
the night, that we were glad to resume our journey 
two hours before dawn. Numerous Hartebeests and 
Quaggas were disturbed by our advance ; and the 
white tailed Gnoo, which now occurred for the first 
time since passing Kuruman, startled at the approach 
of our w 7 aggons, w T as again bellowing, stamping, and 
tossing its eccentric head. As the day broke, bound- 
less meads kept extending to the eye, covered with 
luxuriant herbage and enamelled with rich parterres 
of brilliant flowers. These were animated by droves 
of portly Elands, moving in long procession across the 
silent and treeless landscape. The rank odour of 
these animals, resembling the exhalation from a cat- 
tle close, could be winded from a great distance; and 
it is a singular fact that their bodies are infested by 



Chap. XXVII.] ' SOUTHERN AFRICA. 263 

the ticks and parasitic flies commonly found in such 
places. 

Pursuing a herd of many hundred Elands, which 
literally resembled a vast drove of stall fed oxen, 
we were joined in the chase by the prettily striped 
foal of a Quagga, which neighed and frisked by the 
side of our horses for a considerable time, before it 
discovered its mistake. The lighter bodied cows 
skipped nimbly over each others' heads, while the 
unweildy bulls laboured in the rear, their sleek sides 
shaking with fat, and frothing with perspiration. 
Two minutes were sufficient to reduce them all to a 
walk, and although some turned in desperation upon 
their pursuers, these enormous creatures are so easi- 
ly disposed of that the whole herd might have been 
slaughtered. Their flesh being so greatly superior 
to that of any other animal, was always eagerly 
sought after; and on this occasion, we killed a suf- 
ficient number to afford a stock of tongues and 
briskets for salting, in case the country in advance, 
of which every one was equally ignorant, should not 
afford a supply of game. Leaving the carcases a 
banquet for the Vultures, we placed these delicacies 
on our meagre steeds, and rejoined the cajila in the 
afternoon. Weary and exhausted for want of water, 
we were not a little rejoiced on our arrival to find it 
drawn up on the banks of the beautiful Chonapas, a 
deep gurgling stream tenanted by Hippopotami, and 



2G4 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVII. 



meandering amid clusters of sighing reeds, Some 
of our people were busily engaged in the manufac- 
ture of a Buffalo hide drag rope for the approaching 
journey, and others had gone in search of tire-wood. 
Not a dry twig was to be obtained however, in the 
whole country, and it was found necessary to break 
up one of our boxes in order to boil the water and 
dress some fish that had been taken. The savages 
had always evinced the strongest antipathy to the 
finny tribe, flying in dismay if one were suddenly 
exhibited ; and Andries here attempting some ill-tim- 
ed practical joke of the kind upon Maphook, the 
savage sprang tiger-like upon his back, and throw- 
ing him to the ground, handled him so roughly, that 
our crest-fallen hero was fain to sue for quarter. 

From our present position, the Vaal river was sta- 
ted by the guides to be only two days journey to 
the Southward, the range of mountains in which it 
rises being indistinctly visible to the Southeast. 
Having conducted us thus far on our journey, they 
now declared their intention of returning immediately 
to the King, for whom they had the impudence to 
demand the gun, as well as the promised wages of 
their own services ; adding, in reply to our remon- 
strances, that as we were now standing on the ground 
where the Emigrants had been routed, they found it 
impossible to proceed further, or to overcome the dread 
they entertained of their enemies the Dutchmen, An 



Chap. XXVII.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



265 



intimate acquaintance with the lying propensities of 
the savages, combined with other circumstances, sat- 
isfied us that the unusual appearance of sheep-drop- 
pings, to which they referred in support of their as- 
sertions, had been occasioned during Kalipi's return 
with the booty. Feeling confident therefore that 
they had no cause for alarm, and having every reason 
to be apprehensive for our own safety, should they 
desert us undar existing circumstances, we steadily 
refused to comply with their demand. Upon this 
they assumed a tone of ultra insolence, and in the 
end menaced us with an attack from a neighbouring 
Matibili outpost, if we longer withheld the presents. 
Without any just grounds for doubting the good 
faith of the King, we had been a little suspicious of 
the real object of Um'Nombate's visit, and after this 
threat, felt doubtful to what extent the guides might 
be acting under the royal instructions, with a design 
of deterring us from proceeding. Personal considera- 
tions would have justified, if they did not demand, 
our putting the caitiffs to death upon the spot ; but 
after some deliberation, it was resolved, after adopt- 
ing precautionary measures against a night surprize, 
that we should see whether the morrow's dawn might 
not find them in a more accommodating humour. 
Ammunition was accordingly served out, and a place 
allotted to every one in case of an attack — the hor- 
ses being secured to the front of our own waggons, 

34 



266 



EXPEDITION &c. [Chap. XXVII. 



lest the weak nerves of the Hottentots should induce 
them to jump upon their backs on the first appear- 
ance of danger. As a last arrangement before go- 
ing to bed, Ethaldur — whose nights if passed at a 
distance from the "Licensed retailer of wine and 
brandy," were usually restless — -was selected to per- 
form the important part of Cerberus, in which duty 
he was voluntarily assisted by Cceur de Lion, who 
declared his utter inability to close his eyes. "Did 
I not tell you," croaked the former of these bold 
spirits to his companion, as, pipe in mouth, he pro- 
ceeded to mount guard — "Did I not tell you that we 
should all have our throats cut, so sure as we came 
out by the Vaal Riviere!" 



267 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



DESERTION OF OUR ESCORT, AND ARRIVAL AT THE 
RIVER VAAL. 

Awaking as the bright morning star shot above 
the Eastern horizon, I perceived four Elands standing 
within a few yards of the camp, undetected by the 
vigilance of the sentinels, whose eyes nevertheless 
were wide open. Directions for yoking the oxen 
were no sooner given, than the guides commenced 
packing their goods and chattels, and otherwise pre- 
paring for their return to the King. Seeing the im- 
possibility of inducing them to accompany us farther 
on our journey, and apprehensive of their resentment 
if the rewards with held, we made a merit of necse- 
sity, and attempted to restore them to good hu- 
mour, by presenting each in his turn with a red wool- 
len night cap, and a complete suit of European cloth- 
ing, together with some beads which had been ex- 
pressly reserved for their use. The only remaining 
coil of brass wire was likewise handed over with a 
box of lucifers, and a few mould candles, as a fare- 
well offering to His Majesty, to whom we desired a 
complimentary message expressive of our regret at 
having been deprived of the means of sending him 



268 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVIII. 



the gun from the Vaal river. Hereupon, spurning 
the proferred treasures from them, the savages in- 
dignantly demanded if such rubbish could be con- 
sidered a suitable recompense for their long and 
meritorious services, feigning at the same timeas if 
about to retire. After some consultation however, 
they carefully scraped together the scattered beads, 
hanging each a hoop of wire about his neck ; and plac- 
ing their shields and bundles on their heads, departed 
angrily, Mohanycom declaring with a mysterious air 
as he opened his shark- like jaws in our presence for 
the last time, that li when the mightiest of Monarchs 
should behold such trash, his royal heart would be 
very sore! 19 

Without either guide, escort, or interpreter — in 
the midst of an unkown wilderness, bordering on the 
recent scene of bloody strife, and still scoured by the 
contending parties — our little band was now left in 
a highly unenviable position. After providing us, as 
he supposed, with a guard to the verge of his domin- 
ions, His Majesty had not in all probability, deemed 
it necessary to acquaint the different frontier outposts 
of our approaching exit; and deprived as we now 
were of the means of holding communication with 
his warriors, should we fall in with them, the least 
evil that could be anticipated in the present ex- 
cited state of their feelings, would be a journey back 
to Kapain. Adding to the above prospect, the pro* 



Chap. XXVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



269 



bability of annoyance or misrepresentation on the 
part of the recreant escort, we plainly perceived that 
the sooner we were out of Moselekatse's country, the 
better it was likely to fare with ourselves. 

The Matabili were fast receding in single file to- 
wards the Northern horizon, when we commenced 
our retreat to the Southward; and crossing the river 
by a natural causeway which formed a small cas- 
cade, shaped our course along the bank. A verdant 
meadow on which numerous Elands were grazing in 
herds like tame cattle, stretched away before us, and 
was traversed throughout its length, by the silver 
stream of the tortuous Chonapas, winding between 
fringes of waving bulrushes. The direction it assum- 
ed, convincing us that it must be a tributary of the 
river to which we were journeying, we determined by 
hugging the bank, to avoid the chance of passing the 
night without water ; and to guard as far as possible 
against other misfortunes, a new order of march was 
ordained — the oxen, horses, and sheep, being driven 
close to the waggons en masse, and not suffered to 
straggle as of yore. 

We had proceeded some ten miles in this fashion, 
when two human figures were descried at a distance, 
accompanied by several dogs. Immediately on per- 
ceiving us, they concealed themselves beneath a bush, 
and on our approach, fled in the greatest consterna- 
tion, sitting gloomily down as " men without hope," 



270 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVIll. 



when our horses were actually at their heels. Ex- 
pecting nothing at our hands but instant death, these 
miserable savages were not a little surprised at receiv- 
ing a liberal supply of tobacco, and an invitation to 
the waggons, where they feasted so heartly, that al- 
though anxious to accompany our party, they were 
utterly, unable to keep pace. Before losing sight of 
them we discovered that they were members of the 
Barapootsa tribe, acknowledging an independent 
King named Bapootsa, and occupying the hills at 
the head of the Likwa ; which river, they assured 
us, we could not possibly reach before the next night. 
In accordance with African caprice, which assigns a 
parasol to the male instead of to the female sex, 
these gentlemen were each provided with a long staff 
decorated with the black body feathers of the Ostrich. 
Besides affording protection from the sun's rays, these 
implements not unfrequently prove serviceable in the 
chase ; and being stuck into the ground at the proper 
moment, divert the attention of a charging Lion 
from the object of his vengeance, and thus enable 
the rest of the party, to rush in, and dispatch him 
with their assagais. 

By sunset, having abandoned two of the sick ox- 
en, and accomplished twenty- rive miles, our further 
advance was prevented by the pack waggon sticking 
fast in a morass. It was at length extricated at the 
expense of a trek-touw, to repair which a tax was 



Chap. XXVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



271 



levied on the hides of two Elands that were grazing 
in the neighbourhood, and we then drew up in a 
strong position, before an old stone enclosure, which 
served as a cattle pound, the rear being fortified by 
an isolated tumulus. Andries having confidently 
predicted some unpleasant occurrence, Coeur de Lion 
perched himself upon the summit of this eminence, 
and maintained another weary vigil throughout the 
night, the early half of which was illumined by a 
brilliant moon. 

We commenced another forced march before day 
light on the 19th, still taking the course of the 
Chonapas for our guide. Several long strings of wild 
Buffaloes passed a-head of us on their way up from 
the river, and a Lion, with tail erect, was observed 
in full career after a troop of scouring Gnoos. The 
capricious distribution of animal forms, is no where 
more remarkable than in Africa, and to solve the 
mysterious causes by which it is influenced has long 
been reckoned among the most puzzling problems in 
the great scheme of the creation. As if by magic 
the Brindled Gnoo had suddenly given place during 
the last three days, to the common, or white tailed 
species, and not another specimen occurred during 
the remainder of our journey. Whilst hunting the 
Wilde Beest,* as the latter species is termed by the 



Angliee. Wild Ox. 



272 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVHI, 



Cape Colonists, the abstraction already recorded of roy 
shoes by His Amazooloo Majesty, had nearly been the 
cause of a serious disaster. In order to avoid the disa- 
greeable alternative of walking barefooted, I had been 
compelled to adopt a pair rudely manufactured of un- 
tanned hide; and the sole becoming entangled in the 
stirrup, while, with both hands encumbered, I was in 
the act of jumping off to administer the coup de 
grace, I fell on my back; and the wounded animal 
bellowing and struggling at the same instant, my 
horse started off, and before I could extricate myself, 
had kicked me severely on the knee and ancle, be- 
sides dragging me a sufficient distance over the loose 
stones, to remove the whole of my clothes, and a 
large portion of the skin from by back. 

Merciless and repeated applications of the whip- 
cord and double thong, enabled us with the loss of 
another ox, to achieve twenty-five miles more by 
four o'clock in the afternoon. The blue mountain 
range, now on our left, had gradually assumed a 
deeper and deeper tint, and as w r e advanced over the 
trackless plain like a ship through the ocean, was 
fast developing its rugged character. At length, 
lifting up our eyes, we beheld before us afar off, a 
long dark streak of bushes, stretching parallel to the 
horizon, and marking the course of the stream of 
which we were in search. Shouts of exultation burst 
from the mouths of the Hottentots, as they sprang 



Chap. XXVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



273 



from the waggon boxes from which they had been 
gazing, and cracked their long whips with encreased 
energy. The patient oxen broke into a trot — the 
object upon which all eyes were rivetted became bet- 
ter and better defined, our friendly pilot stream rap- 
idly encreased in breath, and as the sun disappeared 
below the horizon, we were standing on the banks 
of the river Vaal. 

This remote arm of the Gareep, or Great Orange 
river, forms the Southern limit of the territory to 
which Moselekatse lays claim. Rising nearly oppo- 
site to Delagoa bay, about three degrees to the West- 
ward of that port, and joining the parent stream 
some two hundred and fifty geographical miles below 
the confluence of the Chonapas, it traverses the 
South African continent from East to West like a great 
artery, and discharges its waters into the Atlantic 
ocean. At the spot where we reached it, the breadth 
did not exceed one hundred and fifty yards, but the 
fresh deposition of rubbish on the bank, showed that 
the water had very lately risen at least ten feet above 
its present level — and from the strength and muddi- 
ness of the current, we were not a little apprehen- 
sive that it might be again flooded during the night, 
and obstruct our progress for many days. The ab- 
sence nevertheless of any thing approaching to a 
practicable ford, obliged us to take our chance. 

The river was literally teeming with Hippopotami, 

35 



274 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXVIII, 



about forty of those amphibious monsters protruding 
their laughable countenances at the same time, and 
grampus-like, blowing a spout of muddy water as if 
in honor of our arrival. Although two Lions had 
been seen the moment before, the Hottentots, to a 
man, without unyoking the oxen, left the waggons 
standing on the brink of the high bank, and rushed 
like school boys to the water's edge. A gigantic 
Hippopotamus was making directly for the shore by 
a succession of plunges, his broad snout appearing 
nearer and nearer, every time he rose, puffing to the 
surface. I was in the act of firing in at his garret 
window, when I perceived the tail of a couchant Li- 
oness knocking angrily within a few yards of my 
foot. So completely was her attention engrossed by 
the waggons, that although close behind her, she did 
not perceive either Piet or myself, and was retiring, 
when one of the followers foolishly firing at her, she 
galloped back through the middle of our party, and 
being joined by a Lion disappeared among the bush- 
es. 

The savage loneliness of this wild spot, might well 
have constituted it the metropolis of Ferce; but in 
spite of all the warnings we had received, it was with 
the greatest difficulty, and not before we had set the 
example in person, that the perverse Hottentots could 
be induced to suspend hostilities against the Zeekoes, 
and construct a thorn fence for the security of the 



Chap. XXVIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



275 



cattle. Scarcely was it completed before there set in 
a drenching and dismal night, which has left behind 
it, on my mind, an indelible impression. If the pa- 
norama that presented itself on our first arrival, had 
agreeably recalled to recollection the inconsistent 
medleys of a dream, the gloomy terrors of the night 
that now succeeded, might fitly be likened to an in- 
cubus. 4< Darkness that could be felt," and torrents 
of rain, accompanied by vivid flashes of lightning, 
and peals of deafening thunder, were rendered trebly 
terrible by the howling of the wind, the incessant 
snorting of Hippopotami in the river, and the prowl- 
ing of Lions around our slender fortification. About 
midnight the affrighted oxen contrived to effect their 
escape, and after fruitless attempts to recover them, 
we were left in no very enviable plight, to muse, while 
we counted the tedious hours until morning, upon 
the improbability of our ever finding them again. 



276 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



EXIT FROM MOSELEKATSE'S DOMINIONS, AND PAS- 
SAGE ACROSS THE NAMA-HARI. 

The twentieth of December, though it placed us 
beyond the Matabili territories, was a day of exces- 
sive toil, and but little progress. As soon as it was 
light enough to see, Andries started on horseback 
in quest of a ford; and all but one of the oxen hav- 
ing by the most unlooked-for good fortune, been re- 
covered, we shortly afterwards moved down the river, 
the waters of which had risen upwards of a foot dur- 
ing the night. After crossing many perilous ravines, 
we at length became alarmed at the protracted non- 
appearance of our scout, and had just resolved to 
send back in search of him when he rejoined us, tri- 
umphantly bearing the teeth of a sea-cow — whilst 
extracting which for his own private advantage, he 
had unfortunately suffered his masters to overshoot, 
by several miles, what he termed an admirable ford. 
Retracing our steps to this spot, we found the cur- 
rent waist deep, the bank acclivitous, and the bed 
strewed with large blocks of granite; but having 
first taken the precaution of sending a horseman re» 



Chap. XXIX.] EXPEDITION, &c. 



2? 7 



peatedly across, we determined to attempt the pas- 
sage. After much violent bumping, the leading 
waggon reached the opposite side without any diffi- 
culty, but not so its consort. Owing to some mis- 
management on the part of the driver, the luckless 
"omnibus," when about half way over, became 
firmly wedged between two masses of rock ; and al- 
though every one stripped to the skin, and " applied 
his shoulders to the wheel/' three provoking hours 
were passed in abortive attempts to extricate it. 
Whips, shin-bones, and trek-touws, were alike fruit- 
lessly broken, and fresh oxen repeatedly applied 
without the smallest advantage; and the river rising 
rapidly, we had almost despaired of saving our pro- 
perty, when cracks and yells, followed by the simul- 
taneous struggling of twenty-four of our sturdiest 
beasts, were answered by the grating of a wheel. 
An interval of intense anxiety succeeded. One af- 
ter another, the fore and hind nave on the same side, 
rose slowly above the surface of the water, and the 
fall of the slanting vehicle appeared inevitable. To 
our joy, a sudden jerk restored it, tottering, to the 
perpendicular — pair after pair of the long string of 
oxen obtained their footing on the bank — once again 
the whips resounded in the hollow, and the dripping 
van emerged in safety from the flood, 

Another hour had passed away before our little 
flock of sheep could be reclaimed, These stubborn 



278 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIX. 



animals, having in the first instance been forced into 
the stream by dint of much pelting and persecution, 
had been carried down a considerable distance ; and, 
as a matter of of course, whilst all hands were en- 
gaged in extricating the waggon, had strayed into the 
thicket. At length every thing was ready. Little 
dreaming of the distance that still divided them from 
their beloved gin-shop, the Hottentots cheered and 
fired a salute, as they turned their backs upon the 
"yellow river," and upon the execrated dominions 
of His beer-drinking Majesty. 

We had not advanced more than three miles, be- 
fore our progress was opposed by a furious storm of 
hail and thunder. Many of the stones were half an 
inch in diameter, and the oxen being unable to 
face them, turned their backs to the pitiless shower 
and stood in the yokes. With some difficulty we at 
last gained the shelter of a neighbouring hill, in an 
amphitheatre enclosed by which, we passed the night. 
To Andries in particular, this friendly spot wore an 
aspect of charmed interest, it having been described 
by ' Lingap, with what truth I know not, as the scene 
Truey's enslavement. To me it is remarkable from 
of the circumstance of my having there, for the last 
time, seen and destroyed the Rhinoceros. 

Thus far on our pilgrimage we had been directed 
in some measure by the course of rivers and moun- 
tains, but during the remainder of our journey we 



Gin*. XXIX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



279 



were to be guided by the compass alone. A- per- 
fectly unexplored country intervened betwixt us and 
the Colony, and the distance that we had travelled 
south of the known latitude of Mosega, convinced 
me that we were still much further from it than the 
maps would indicate. It was believed by the Hot- 
tentots, that a southerly course would have led us to 
Lishuani, the residence of Peter David, conjectured 
to be about one hundred and fifty miles from the pre- 
sent position. In order to reach the Missionary sta- 
tion of Phillipolis therefore, which was supposed to 
be rather less than double that distance, it was de- 
termined to adopt South-westerly route. Day after 
day as I pricked off on the chart the progress that 
we had made, was I strengthened in the opinion I had 
formed, and the sequel fully confirmed its correct- 
ness. 

The first day we travelled over an uninterrupted 
plain strewed with small land tortoises, and covered 
with a profusion of gay flowers, amongst which the 
Marigold predominated. A sultry and tedious march 
of nine hours, brought us at length to a bog, with a 
scanty pool of excessively fetid mineral water, which 
nothing but the direst necessity could have induced 
us to taste. The number of animals collected in the 
vicinity first drew our attention to this treasure, 
which was surrounded by a clump of bulrushes, with 
a strong calcareous incrustation at their roots. So 



280 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIX. 



exhausted were the oxen, after their three hours cold 
bath the preceding day, that they would hardly have 
reached this oasis, had the fresh scent of a Lion not 
recruited their vigour. However tired the poor 
beasts might be, a sniff of one of their feline enemies 
never failed to put them in the highest spirits. Seve- 
ral Gnoos rushed with them to the water's edge, as 
if to dispute their share, and I shot one from the 
waggon; but in the total absence of fuel, we were 
driven to the necessity of burning one of the spare 
waggon poles, in order to cook a portion of the flesh. 

A heavy dew fell during the night, and was follow- 
ed by a dense fog, in spite of which we were fain to 
decamp from this inhospitable bivouac, at an early 
hour. The face of the country here, so beautifully 
clothed with herbage and flowers, would appear to 
be kept fresh and verdant by these nightly dews and 
humid mists, rather than by the partial showers 
which, few and far between are wont to visit it. The 
being able to sleep in the open air with perfect im- 
punity, is a convincing proof that in Africa, these 
vapours are little prejudicial to health. As the fog 
dispersed, long files of Quaggas were observed mov- 
ing across the distant profile of the plain, like a rival 
caravan on its march; a range of mountains could 
shortly afterwards be distinguished to the westward, 
and about noon, the hawk-eyed Hottentots, who 
possessed an extraordinary facility of detecting objects 



Chap. XXIX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



281 



at a distance, descried a troop of savages. Of the 
two parties, it is difficult to say which was thrown 
into the greatest consternation by the mutual dis- 
covery — but I can only aver, that while every pre- 
paration was making on our side for a gallant defence, 
the enemy were observed in ignominious retreat* 

After we had advanced twenty-five miles, a long 
line of Karree trees darkening the horizon, proclaimed 
our approach to a river ; and late in the afternoon to 
our surprise we struck upon a sudden bend of the 
Vaal river, which here winds abruptly between wil- 
lowed banks round, a narrow peninsula, the neck of 
which is not more than six hundred yards across. 
The cavalcade was in the act of drawing up near 
some deserted Bushman wigwams, when three Lion- 
esses leaped out of a bush immediately on our flank ; 
and Piet, who declared that he could discern the 
head of a fourth, having cracked his long whip forth 
there stalked also a venerable Lion, evidently subdu- 
ed and enfeebled by years. A bullet discharged 
at him from the waggon box, having penetrated the 
patriarch's shoulder, he thrust his hoary head into a 
bush, and was gathered unto his fathers. It was not, 
however, until Richardson, with a party on horseback, 
had tested his demise by repeated vollies, that his 
remains were dragged out for inspection. 

My knee was still so painful from the effect of the 
kick I had received, that I was unable to mount a 

36 



I 



282 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIX. 

horse. The task of providing food for the followers, 
had therefore devolved principally upon my fellow 
voyageur. Elands were still abundant, and as a 
dernier resort we had upwards of twenty sheep left, 
notwithstanding the ravages committed on our herd by 
wild beasts. The hardiness evinced by our little flock 
became daily more the theme of admiration, an instance 
of foot soreness rarely occurring during the longest 
march. When it did, the cripple either rode in the 
omnibus, or was placed at the disposal of the fire-wor- 
shipper, at whose hands it had little mercy to expect. 
The prevailing scarcity of fuel in this part of the 
country, induced us to take in a good supply before 
again leaving the river; and in order to make room 
for it, and relieve the oxen as much as possible; 
nearly all their necks having been rendered raw by 
drawing in wet yokes, we threw out every article 
that could possibly be dispensed with,, amongst the 
most bulky of which was a large supply of Zekoe fat, 
commissioned by our friends in the Colony. 

On the 23d 9 having skirted the river about five 
miles, we unexpectedly found ourselves at the em- 
bouchure of one of its principal tributaries, the Nama 
Hari or Donkin, a river which takes its source one 
hundred and fifty miles to the Eastward, midway 
Between Port Natal and Delagoa bay, in the great 
mountain range that divides Caffraria from the Be- 
cbuana country. The point of confluence of these- 



Chap. XXIX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 283 

streams is situated at the very apex of the bend al- 
ready described ; and the meeting of their troubled 
waters, rolling towards each other from opposite 
points of the compass, was an imposing and unusual 
spectacle. As we were witnessing it from the brink 
of the precipitous and w 7 ell rounded scarp, which 
forms the salient angle, Behemoth at intervals 
thrust out his broad snout for a moment to gaze at 
us, or suddenly emerging with a snort and splash, 
from beneath the belt of Chaldean willows* which 
graced the opposite shore, plunged his shapeless 
bulk into the flood. About sunset, having advanced 
ten miles up the right bank of the Nama Han 
without discovering a ford, we halted at a spot where 
the banks might with some labor have been pared 
down sufficiently to admit of our waggons crossing.; 
but our scouts discovering a practicable road two 
miles higher up, we were fortunately spared the trou- 
ble. 

Two hours toil the following morning placed us 
safely on the Southern bank of the Nama Hari; and 
after filling up our water casks, and endeavouring to 
persuade the cattle to drink their fill, which at so 
early an hour they refused to do, we resumed a 
South-westerly course, and again made sail over the 
interminable plain. Our attention was presently 



Salix Babylonica. 



284 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXIX. 



arrested by the fresh spoor of several horsemen in 
pursuit of Elands; and some of the Hottentots, feel- 
ing convinced that the hunters would prove to be a 
band of Bastards from Lishuani, determined to follow 
them, and enquire the news. A few hours after- 
wards, however, they returned in dismay, with the in- 
telligence that they had unexpectedly come upon a 
spot near the river, where t the ground was spread 
with human skeletons as with a table-cloth, under 
which circumstances they had thought it prudent to 
return. 

The day was distressingly sultry, and by the 
time we had advanced twenty-five miles, three more 
of our invalid oxen had been left to perish. Tanta- 
lized by the dancing mirage, we had scoured the 
country in every direction, without being able to dis- 
cover a drop of water, although the thirsty earth 
was seamed with dry tanks and gullies. Late in the 
afternoon, still plodding our weary way over the 
cheerless expanse, we were vainly listening for the 
melodious croaking of some friendly frog, which 
alone was likely to be the index to the element we 
required, when our eyes were unexpectedly greeted 
by a waggon road. The appearance of the deeply 
ploughed ruts, the first that we had seen since 
leaving Tolaan, showed that upwards of twenty 
laden vehicles had passed about twelve months before, 
during a fall of rain. Trusting that they might lead 



Chap. XXIX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



285 



us to water, we followed them as long as day light 
lasted. Then the sky became overcast, and flashes 
of lightning, at short intervals, showing us some- 
thing on the verge of the horizon which loomed 
like a thick bush, we persevered towards it. Alas I 
like the delusive lakes in the morning, it was meta- 
morphosed on our approach, into a few dwarf shrubs 
barely a foot in height. Unable to proceed further, 
we halted in the middle of the bleak and exposed 
heath without either fuel or water beyond the scanty 
supply in the waggons. The sheep were placed in 
a circle formed by haltering the horses together; 
and to prevent the oxen from straying, we were 
compelled to secure them to the waggon wheels, 
although the unfortunate beasts had passed twelve 
hours in the yoke, without tasting a morsel of food. 



286 



CHAPTER XXX. 



THREE DAYS' SOLITARY WANDERING IN THE WIL- 
DERNESS. 

Christmas day was pregnant with an event, 
which for some time cast a dismal gloom over the 
party, and had nearly caused my separation from it 
during the remainder of the journey. Three hours 
before that festive morn had dawned upon us, our 
search for water was renewed — the moon enabling 
us to trace the waggon road, although at every step 
it was becoming less and less distinct. Arriving as 
the day broke, at the summit of a gentle ascent, 
which here disturbing the monotony of the other- 
wise uniformly level flat, had obstructed our view 
to the Southward, another vast landscape presented 
itself to our gaze. Endless meads, clad in a vernal 
and variegated robe of gay but scentless flowers, in 
whose presence the desert seemed to smile, spread- 
ing away before us, exhibited the motley confusion 
of a Turkey carpet. One isolated tumulus stood 
like a pine-apple in the centre, and in the distance, 
three rectangular table topped mountains, of singu- 
larly uniform appearance, reminded the spectator of 
terraced barrack-rooms— shooting boxes perhaps, 



Chap. XXX. J EXPEDITION &c. 



287 



erected by the giants of olden times. Hair brained 
Gnoos, careering over the plain, hailed our advance 
— now stopping inquisitively to scrutinize the wag- 
gons — then lashing their dark sides with their snowy 
tails, as they hastily retreated. Large troops of 
Blesbucks,* or White faced Antelopes, a pied spe- 
cies that we had rarely met with before, likewise 
chequered the scene; and with herds of Springbucks, 
Quaggas, and Ostriches, announced the proximity of 
water. Presently, to our delight, we descried a 
" reed encircled fountain" at which, after twenty- 
eight hours of total abstinence, the dying oxen were 
enabled to slake their terrible thirst. A strong cal- 
careous deposit adhering to the vegetation, rendered 
the water extremely bitter to the taste, and it was 
by the exercise of the long whips alone that the 
cattle were prevented from plunging into the poolV 
before our casks had been filled. 

The accidental, but important discovery of por- 
tions of a broken yoke key, here enabled the Hot- 
tentots to decide the knotty and long argued ques- 
tion, whether the outward bound tracks upon which 
we were proceeding, were those of Dutch, or of 
Griqua waggons. Opinion being now unanimous in 
favor of the former, it was determined to follow them- 
as long as they should preserve a South-westerly 



* Gazella Mbifrons, Delineated in th£ African Views. 



£88 



EXPEDITION UNTO [Chap. XXX. 



direction. The total absence of fuel obliged us after 
an hour's halt, to continue our march over numerous 
salt-pans, upon which herds of Blesbucks were bus- 
ily licking the chrystalized efflorescence. Alarmed 
at our approach, vast troops of them were continu- 
ally sweeping past against the wind, carrying their 
broad white noses close to the ground like a pack of 
harriers in full cry. Never having killed any of 
these Antelopes, and our stock of provisions requir- 
ing to be recruited, I mounted Breslar, my favorite 
Rozinante, and never heeding whither I sped, dashed 
into the thick of them. The pine-apple hill bore 
east about five miles, and I fancied was a never fail- 
ing land mark to direct my return to the road, which 
although faint, could readily be distinguished by a 
practised eye. Dealing death around, I continued to 
scour the plain, the herd before me increasing from 
hundreds to thousands, and reinforcements still pour- 
ing in from all directions, when crying 4 * Hold, 
enough/' I stayed my hand from slaughter. Hav- 
ing divested some of the slain from their brilliant 
party colored robes, and packed the spolia on my 
horse, I set out to rejoin the waggons, but ah ! how 
vainly did I seek for them. Again and again I strain- 
ed my eyes for the road, and cantered to and fro be- 
tween the string of frosted salt-pans, and the little hill, 
which, floating in the sea of mirage that environed 
me, seemed as if poised in the sky. The monotony 



Chap. XXX.J SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



289 



of the landscape baffled all my attempts at recogni- 
tion, and my search was utterly fruitless. Every 
feature of the cone was precisely the same — the ta- 
ble mountains were completely obscured by the 
vapour — and in the constant recurrence of similar 
forms, I lost the points of the compass, and at last 
became totally bewildered. 

To retrace my steps over plains so trampled by 
innumerable herds was clearly impossible. At one 
moment as if in mockery, a solitary Quagga, magni- 
fied ten thousand times by the treacherous mirage, 
loomed like the white tilt of a waggon; but my joy 
at the supposed discovery was invariably followed by 
the bitterest disappointment. Again a group of 
pigmy Bushwomen, walking unnoticed among a herd 
of Blesbucks, and seen through the same deceptive 
medium, personated our followers with the cattle. 
Alas ! these too fled at my approach, and jabbered 
like baboons when I had overtaken them. Several 
hours had thus passed in idle search. Spent by fa- 
tigue and anxiety, my parched tongue rattling like a 
board against the palate of my mouth, I wandered on 
over flowery wastes, still lengthening as I advanced. 
Dry tanks surrounded by a garden of pinks and 
marigolds, served only to increase my sufferings, 
but neither fount, nor pool, nor running stream, 
greeted my straining gaze. At length the refraction 
dissipating with the declining day, the three table- 

37 



290 



EXPEDITION INTO 



C :~Ap. XXX. 



topped mountains became again visible in the hori- 
zon. With the consoling reflection that at all events 
I was now advancing in the same direction as the 
caravan, I hastened forward, and before dusk, found 
myself not a little revived by a draught of the clear- 
est water from a serpentine river flowing to the West- 
ward; the banks of which were trimmed with reeds 
and dwarf willows, while portions of its sandy bed 
were imprinted with the heavy foot-steps of a troop 
of Lions. 

The mind becomes even more readily habituated 
to hardship and suffering than the body. Every 
thing around me was vague and conjectural, and 
wore an aspect calculated to inspire despondency 
yet I no sooner became convinced that I was actually 
lost in the heart of a howling wilderness, inhabited 
if at all, by barbarous and hostile tribes, than I felt 
fully prepared to meet the emergency. The setting 
sun having given me the bearing of the table moun- 
tains, considerably to the Westward of South, it was 
evident, that without being aware of it. I had crossed 
the road, and ridden too far to the Eastward. In the 
hope of yet retrieving my error. I hurried down the 
river as fast as possible, but night closing in. I was fain 
to prepare for a bivouack among the bushes. The 
stars were completely concealed behind a clouded sky, 
and repeated flashes of lightning were accompanied by 



Chap. XXX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



291 



distant thunder. Having completed all my prepara- 
tions, I was listening with breathless attention for the 
cracking of a whip, or the signal guns which I knew 
would be fired from the waggons, when to my inex- 
pressible delight, a joyous beacon fire shone suddenly 
forth on the river. Upon consideration, I felt puz- 
zled to account for its appearance in a spot which I 
had so recently passed, but concluding that the 
waggons had subsequently arrived there, I laid the 
flattering unction to my soul, and groped my way 
towards it. My disappointment and disgust may 
better be imagined than described when by the light 
of the fire, I discovered a gang of Bushmen with 
their imp-like squaws, carousing over a carcase. I 
slunk silently back to my den, fully impressed with 
the necessity of remaining perfectly quiet, but scarce- 
ly hoping that my horse would be so fortunate as to 
escape the observation of these lynx-eyed vaga- 
bonds. 

The uneasy snorting of my unfotunate steed, and 
his constant efforts to get loose, soon apprised me 
of the presence of Lions at no great distance to 
windward, but the fear of attracting my two legged 
enemies to the spot prevented my kindling a fire for 
his protection, or even for dressing a Koorliaan* with 
which I had taken care to provide myself. Dying of 



* Florican. 



292 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chip. XXX. 



hunger, and my 6< girdle of famine"* tightened to the 
last hole, I felt strangely tempted to devour my Christ- 
mas repast uncooked. About midnight however, 
having prepared a deep oven, I ventured to light a fire, 
and the fowl being duly baked and disposed of, I pre- 
sently betook myself to sleep. 

The following morning set in with tremendous rain. 
Drenched, cold, and cramped, I arose from my aqua- 
tic bed, and at once perceived that all hope of find- 
ing the trail of our waggons was at an end. The 
soil consisting chiefly of a red loamy earth from 
which the faintly marked tracks were easily obliter- 
ated, I resolved to follow the course of the river seve- 
ral miles further, to the Westward, and then, should 
I fail in finding the waggons, to cross the country in 
a direct line to the conical hill, which was still a con- 
spicuous land mark — thus certainly intersecting the 
road, if indeed any traces of it remained, of which I 
began to be doubtful, To this programme I rigor- 
ously adhered, walking the greater part of the way 
to save my harrassed steed, upon whose back I now 
comtemplated the probability of having to seek my 
way to the Colony — a probability which was might- 
ily increased about sunset, when I found myself pre- 
paring to perfect my acquaintance with the cone, by 
roosting on its summit, 

" In a deep cave dug by no mortal hand." 

* The leathern strap worn round the waist is called by the 
savages a Lambele strap, or hunger girdle. 



Chap. XXX.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



293 



During this second day's weary pilgrimage, 
scorched by the ardent and reflected rays of a sum- 
mer sun, I arrived at an extensive pond covered with 
water lilies, and bordered by a broad belt of flags 
and rushes. Hastily approaching^the margin, I be- 
came suddenly ingulfed in a pit fall, six feet in depth, 
filled with mire and water, from which I extricated my- 
self with inconceivable difficulty. On recovering my 
shoes out of the stiff blue clay at the bottom, I per- 
ceived that the whole tank was closely invested by a 
chain of these traps, which had been carefully cover- 
ed over by my friends the Bushmen. Having shot a 
Springbuck, I here scorched enough of the flesh to 
satisfy the cravings of hunger, and slinging a fine 
fat leg on either side of the saddle took up my night's 
lodging as already described, without having been 
able to discover the smallest traces of the road. 

The night was serene and starlight. From the 
top of my strong hold I looked out upon the tran- 
quil expanse beneath me, and listened for hours to 
catch some friendly melody that might direct my 
bewildered footsteps. Where, alas ! was the 44 busy 
hum of men? " The shrill neighing of the Wild 
Ass, the bleat of the timid Springbuck, or the 
bellow of the Gnoo, with the deep-drawn distant 
sighing of a prowling Lion, occasionally borne along 
upon the breeze, alone disturbed the grave-like still- 
ness of the wilderness ! Seriously did T now debate 



294 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXX. 



with myself upon the propriety of making for the 
Colony, instead of prolonging my search. It is true 
that every thing betwixt me and it was wrapped in 
uncertainty, and that to arrive there I should have 
to pass alone through an unknown and inhospitable 
region, but on the other hand, I had already done 
all that human ingenuity could devise without the 
smallest success. I estimated my distance from the 
New Hantam, to be about two hundred miles ; and 
being well provided with ammunition, there was a fair 
prospect of my being able to reach that district in six 
or seven days, unless the scarcity of game should oblige 
me to sacrifice my steed. Taking into consideration 
however, the long and dismal state of uncertainty that 
the measure w r ould entail upon my companion, I final- 
ly determined to make one more huntsman-like cast, 
before giving up the search in despair. 

Another day dawned, and again I saddled my 
trusty beast, and struck into the pathless w r aste, in- 
tending to make a wide sweep to the Northward and 
Westward, where it w r as possible that rain might 
not have fallen. About noon, lifting up my eyes 
from the ground, on which they had vainly sought 
for any indication of the party having passed, 
to my inexpressible joy and delight, I recognised 
the sedge-grown fountain at which we had break- 
fasted on Christmas morning ! Vaulting into the 
saddle, I eagerly dashed towards the spot, and in- 



Chap. XXX.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



295 



stantly hit upon the trail of our waggons, steadily 
following up which, I shortly fell in with a party of 
Bechuana of both sexes, who proved to be members 
of the remnant of a tribe called Lihoya, and were 
engaged in eating up a Blesbuck that had been 
caught in one of their pit-falls. Having, through the 
agency of a broken cigar, negociated a treaty of 
alliance with these terrified savages, who as usual 
had fled on perceiving me, I pointed to the wheel- 
tracks, and gave them by signs to understand that I 
was in search of my waggons. They instantly un- 
derstood my meaning, and holding up both hands, 
pointed to the Western horizon. The ladies, al- 
though very nervous at first, had in the mean time 
conceived a violent attachment for the brass buttons 
of my jacket — pointing to them, and repeatedly ex- 
claiming with dry mouths, " Tuttana, Tullana!" * 
Upon my presenting these, together with a knife with 
which their amputation had been performed, they 
became perfectly insane, and declared their intention 
of accompanying me in person for the purpose of 
receiving further presents. Placing myself under 
the willing guidance of this savage party, I struck 
across the plain, and in the course of another hour 
was within sight of the waggons. Jaded and way- 
worn, it was with profound gratitude to a protecting 

* Jlnglice, Buttons, buttons! 



296 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXX. 



Providence, that I thus found myself restored to 
the cafila, after three days of anxious wandering 
over an unexplored and inhospitable wilderness. 

Great was the anxiety, and many were the dismal 
forebodings to which my mysterious absence had 
given birth. A general gloom had pervaded the 
camp, and it was conjectured that I had reached 
"that bourne, whence no traveller returns, " There 
being no fuel with which to kindle a beacon fire, whips 
had been cracked, and musquets discharged at inter- 
vals, both during the day and night; and my horse's 
spoor having been completely effaced by the rain, 
three separate parties had gone out in search of me, 
in different directions. Those only who have ex- 
perienced the warm cordiality which grows up be- 
tween partners in so wild and adventurous an ex- 
pedition as that in which my companion and myself 
had embarked, are capable of fully understanding 
the nature of the welcome I received — the sensations 
created by my safe and unhoped-for return even ex- 
tending themselves to the disaffected of our followers. 
On comparing notes with my fellow traveller, I was 
concerned to find that in some respects he had 
scarcely fared better than myself — the knuckle bone 
of a tainted ham, and a cup full of dirty water, having 
constituted his Christmas dinner. 



297 



CHAPTER XXXI. 



JOURNEY RESUMED, TO THE 'GY KOTJP, OR VET 
RIVIERE OF THE EMIGRANTS. 

Mi B fortunes, according to the old adage, never 
come singly; and I have assuredly no grounds for 
recording a special exception to the rule in our favor. 
Shortly after my restoration on the 27th, the sudden 
brewing of a whirlwind, or more properly speaking, 
of a simoom in miniature, whilst it caused the par- 
tial destruction of one of the waggon awnings, led 
also to the temporary loss of our live stock ; the na- 
tural consequence of the latter calamity being, that 
one of the best oxen fell into a pit, and two of the 
sheep into the maw of the Hysena. This extra- 
nary squall of dust and gravel, which raged as if all 
inanimate nature had been stirred into commotion, 
was the forerunner of a thunder storm, that lasted 
the greater part of the night, and ultimately gave 
place to a drenching and steady rain during the 
whole of the following day* Towards evening, our 
allies, the Lihoya, honestly brought in the remaining 
sheep, and our position being very exposed, we made 
an attempt to reach the river; but after travelling 
five miles were compelled to halt at a puddle of rain 

38 



298 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXXT. 



water, where we passed the dreary wet night of the 
28th as we had spent its predecessor, without either 
fuel or shelter. 

The next morning brought us to the scene of my 
bivouack on Christmas night, and according to my 
prediction, we experienced no little difficulty in 
discovering a spot where the capriciously winding 
river might be crossed. The interval was turned to 
account by Cceur de Lion in cooking provisions, 
a man having been sent in advance to collect fuel, 
which however proved to be abundant. At length 
the exploring parties returned — one of them having 
discovered a practicable ford two miles higher up 
the stream, whilst the other had fallen in, to the 
Westward, with the skeletons of several horses, togeth- 
er with some fresh human remains, which, from the 
dimensious of the crania they declared to be those of 
Dutch Boors. A favorite wheel-ox, that had fallen 
sick the preceding day, being now unable to proceed 
further, Claas, at his own request, was permitted to 
put the unfortunate beast out of its misery — a task 
which he accomplished in five clumsy shots. 

The perpendicular character of the bank, rendered 
a skid, or as it it termed by the Colonists, a remscoen, 
necessary upon each hind wheel, in addition to the 
drag-chain ; but even after this precaution, the weight 
of the vehicles caused them to descend with frightful 
velocity. Safely arrived at the bottom, the long 



€hap. XXXI.3 SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



299 



waggon presently settled down to the axle in a 
quicksand, the team also sinking to their bellies; 
and it was not until our remaining supply of flour and 
sugar had been spoiled in the water, during an attempt 
which was made to drag the van out backwards, that 
the latter was at length unloaded, and towed on 
shore by the application of a twenty-four ox power. 
In commemoration of this disaster, the treacherous 
stream was christened by the Hottentots, Sani 
Riviere, or sand river, by which homely designation 
it will be recognised in the map, as a tributary of the 
Likwa. 

We had not advanced above ten miles, before a 
violent storm of hail and rain obliged us again to 
halt in the open heath. Piet, who had gone in ad- 
vance to reconnoitre, lost his way, and did not rejoin 
the party until midnight, having at length been attract- 
ed by the signals made, and by Coeur de Lion's kitch- 
en fire, which on account of the weather, had with 
considerable difficulty been kindled in an ant hill. 
The country over which we passed, was usually co- 
vered with dome-shaped mounds of clay, thrown up 
by the pismire, and invariably scooped out either by 
the long nails of the ant eater, or by Bushmen, so as 
resemble a baker's oven. In wet weather especially, 
or during a dearth of fuel, these mounds were out- 
stoutest allies; but on the other hand, the Hotten- 
tots not unfrequently put the strength of our wag- 
gons to the test by driving carelessly over them* 



800 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXI. 



Two distinct animals are found in this part of the 
country, that alike burrow in the ground, and appear 
to subsist entirely upon ants and termites, leaving 
upon every habitation thrown up by those minute 
insects, unequivocal marks of their desolating visits. 
Of these the Ant-bear, or Aard vark* of the Colo- 
nists, is the more common; it is from six to seven 
feet in extreme length, covered with coarse brown 
hair, and furnished with a slimy, flexible tongue, ca- 
pable of being protruded to the extent of eighteen or 
twenty inches, beyond the attenuated snout. It pos- 
sesses the singular peculiarity of walking, or rather 
hobbling, upon the sides instead of upon the soles, of 
its fore-feet. The latter are provided with four ro- 
bust nails, which form a complete rake, and with 
which the animal digs into the bowels of the mound, 
its taper tongue being always in readiness to seize 
the swarming inmates as fast as they issue from 
their beleaguered abode. 

Although differing greatly in external appearance, 
the equipments as well as the habits, of the second 
species, are essentially the same. Seen from a dis- 
tance the Pangolin, or Manis, f might easily be 
mistaken for a small Alligator. The upper parts of 
the body are clad in a complete suit of flexible ar- 
mour, consisting of numerous stout horny scales, 
overlapping each other like the tiles of a house, and 



* Orycteropus Capensis. t Manis Temmmckii, 



Chap. XXXI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



301 



presenting an appearance precisely similar to the 
bark of the brab tree. Possessing also, the power of 
of rolling itself into a ball like a hedgehog, this 
otherwise defenceless animal is at once rendered 
perfectly invulnerable to the attacks of its foes. 

The soil in this neighbourhood was black; and 
owing to the great quantity of rain that had fallen 
during the night, we found ourselves fairly water- 
logged in the morning. This was considered a rare 
opportunity for breaking in some of the oxen that 
had never yet bowed their stiff neeks to the yoke, 
and their rebellious spirits once subdued by the un- 
sparing administration of the whip, they presently 
dragged us out of our difficulties. Ascending gradu- 
ally to the base of the three table mountains, which 
like natural buttresses protruded their bold outlines 
into the monotonous landscape, an extensive and stir- 
ring prospect burst upon our astonished gaze. Gone 
were the level plains, over which the lingering eye 
had wandered for days without once finding an object 
upon which it could repose. Hill and dale, moun- 
tain and valley, stretched away at our feet in fair 
variety, terminated in the remote horizon by the 
craggy summits of the well known Wittebergen— 
those 

" Sterile mountains, rough and steep, 
That bound abrupt the valley deep, 
Heaving to the clear, blue, sky 
Their ribs of granite, bare and dry,' 5 



302 



EXPEDITION INTO 



{Chat. XXXI. 



Half crazy with delight, and never dreaming of the 
distance that still intervened, or the troubles that 
were yet in store, every one instantly affected to re- 
cognise some landmark with which he was familiar; 
and whilst many actually talked themselves into a 
belief that they could distinguish the smoke from the . 
missionary's chimney at Philiipolis, still one hun- 
dred and fifty miles distant, Andries positively as- 
serted that a line of bushes which skirted the remain- 
ing portion of level land, was the Modder Riviere, 

As we gradually descended towards this stream of 
promise, which ultimately proved to the 'Gy Koup, 
or Vet riviere of the Emigrants — rising near the 
missionary station of Umpukani, and also a tribu- 
tary to the Likwa — we passed over a low tract 
about eight or ten miles in extent, strongly impreg- 
nated with salt, and abounding in lakes and pools. 
The number of wild animals congregated on this 
swampy flat, almost realised fable; the roads made 
by their incessant tramp, resembling so many well 
travelled high ways. At every step incredible herds 
of Bontebucks,* Blesbucks, and Springbucks, with 
troops of Gnoos, and squadrons of the common, or 
stripeless, Quagga, were performing their complicated 
evolutions ; and not unfrequently, a knot of Ostriches 
decked in their white plumes played the part of ge- 



Gazetta Pygarga. Delineated in the African Views. 



Chap. XXXI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



808 



neral officer and staff with such strict propriety, as 
still further to remind the spectator of a cavalry 
review. Late in the afternoon, we struck into a 
waggon track, and crossed the river by a made road, 
to a deserted camp of the Emigrant farmers, whose 
temporary reed huts formed so inviting a shelter, that 
it was resolved to halt for a day — as well for the pur- 
pose of recruiting the oxen, three more of which 
were unable to proceed from the effects of distem- 
per, as to manufacture a new trek-touiv, wash our 
linen, eject the host of ticks which had taken posses- 
sion of the waggons, and give the Hottentots an 
opportunity of dancing in the new year. 

Together with the old year, we had fairly bidden 
adieu to the great plains of the Vaal river, which to 
the traveller appear to be completely taken posses- 
sion of by wild animals, and may with strict propri- 
ety be termed the domain of savage nature. A 
region to the perception as vast and trackless as the 
ocean, and like it presenting an undisturbed horizon, 
is spread out, from the Cashan mountains, into one 
level and treeless expanse of serene and sunny plain. 
In vain we seek for the bewitching variety of hill or 
dale, forest or glade, which constitutes the charm of 
landscape — the eye wanders on without the smallest 
check over endless flats, which are utterly wearisome 
from their extent and monotony. Yet nature has en- 
deavored in some measure to supply the deficiency,, 



304 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXI. 



by decking them out in her gayest flowers, and in 
some of the most eccentric and attractive forms that 
exist in the vegetable world. The chandelier plant, 
and purple amaryllis, with many other splendid 
bulbs, grow wild in profusion ; and being interspersed 
with geraniums, a several species of the cactus, 
and an endless variety of the succulent green-house 
plant, called the Hottentot fig, literally impart to the 
waste the appearance of a flower garden. 

The monotony of this extraordinary wilderness, is 
at length broken in upon by the Wittebergem, or 
Quathlamba mountains, a broad basaltic belt that 
skirts the Eastern coast at a distance varying from 
sixty to ninety miles for the shore, and divides 
Caffraria from Bechuana land. This wild chaos of 
rocks and cliffs — of barren ridges and towering 
peaks, worn by time into castellated fortresses, and 
other fanta stic shapes, resembles the ruins of a world ; 
and being intersected by yawning chasms, offers an 
impassable barrier. Both the Caledon, and the Nu- 
Gareep, take their source in this vast chain, and its 
wild fastnesses not only afford shelter to the JWant ci- 
te cs under King Sikonyela, and to many other bro- 
ken tribes who have been driven from their native 
homes by " war's alarms" — but they have lately been 
discovered by adventurous French Missionaries, to 
be the haunts of two Cannibal tribes, called the 
Barimo and Ba-Mahakana. 



Chap, XXXf.J SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



305 



December and January constituting the hottest 
season, we crossed the plains of the Vaal river at 
the proper time for suffering all the inconvenience of 
rain, without enjoying any of its advantages. In com- 
mon with other countries remote from the sea coast, 
this portion of the continent receives its rain in thun- 
der showers during the summer months ; and there 
being none during the rest of the year, the climate, 
notwithstanding frequent nocturnal dews, is charac- 
terised by extreme aridity. The sun shines with 
matchless splendor through a sky of delicious blue, 
which is rarely visited by a cloud ; and during his meri- 
dian blaze over a level expanse, in many parts strong- 
ly impregnated with salt, the delusion of mirage is 
nowhere more perfect, Optical lakes impart to the 
wanderer fevered with thirst, the torments of Tanta- 
lus; yet even on these naked plains he will experience 
none of the debilitating fervor of an Indian sun. 

Although thinly populated by skulking broods of 
Bushmen, and by the starving remnants of nomadic 
pastoral tribes, which have been broken up by war 
and violence, this is a land in which no man perma- 
nently dwells — neither is the soil any man's pro- 
perty, being abandoned as water or fuel fails. 
Nearly all the rivers by which it is traversed are 
periodical, and the few pools that exist, being dried 
up at certain seasons, the miserable wretches, 
whose existence depends upon the wild animals, 

39 



806 



EXPEDITION, Sec. 



[Chap. XXXL 



migrate with them to distant parts, keeping within the 
verge of expiring verdure. Amongst the savage na- 
tions of South Africa, as elsewhere, a principle of 
extinction has for ages past been in active operation, 
Regions now silent and deserted, once contained their 
busy throng, whose numbers and strength have been 
gradually brought down by war and want. Whole 
tribes have been rooted out from their hereditary 
homes, and have either disappeared from the face of 
the earth, or, pursued by the " gaunt and bony arm" 
of famine, still wander with fluctuating fortunes ovey 
these measureless tracts. For hundreds of miles 
therefore, the eye is not greeted by the smallest trace 
of human industry, or by any vestige of human 
habitation — the wild and interminable expanse ever 
presenting the same appearance — that of one vast, 
uninhabited solitude. 



sor 



CHAPTER XXXII. 



PLUNDERED BY BUSHMAN HORDES, AND LEFT A 
WRECK IN THE DESERT. 

Resuming our pilgrimage on the morning of the 
1st January 1837, our road wound among singular 
groups of detached hills, which wore the appearance 
of having accidentally fallen there after the forma- 
tion of the plain ; blue peaks and mountain ridges 
stretching along the horizon, and deepening their 
tints as we advanced. Again, the valleys were spread, 
as with flocks of sheep, with countless herds of 
graceful Springbucks, displaying the snowwhite folds 
on their haunches while they vaulted over each others 
heads ; and for the first time since quitting the Colo- 
ny, several Secretary birds were now observed strut- 
ting about the plain, in search of snakes, upon which 
reptiles they principally subsist. In many places the 
ground was strewed with the blanched skeletons of 
Gnoos and other wild animals, which had evidently 
been slaughtered by Bushmen, and the traces of 
these Troglodytes waxed hourly more apparent, as 
the country became more inhabitable; the base of 
one hill in particular, in which some of their caves 
were discovered, presenting the appearance of a 



308 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap, XXXII, 



Golgotha — several hundred Gnoos and Bontibucks' 
skulls being collected in a single heap. 

The Bontibuck is the twentieth and last known 
species of the Antelope tribe * that is to be met with 
in Southern Africa, remote from the sea-coast. It 
was formerly common in the Cape Colony, and a 
few are even still preserved in the district of Swel- 
lendam, a fine of five hundred Rix Dollars being 
attached to their destruction, unless by special licence 
from Government. In point of shape and size, the 
Bontibuck bears a close resemblance to the Blesbuck, 
being equally robust, humpbacked and broad nosed ; 
but it is more remarkably piebald, the legs being 
perfectly white, and the horns black, instead of 
being light colored. The two animals have in com- 
mon, a broad blaze down the face, a glazed blue 
back, and fiery red eyes. The horns are placed ver- 
tically on the summit of the head, and both species 
alike invariably scour against the wind, with their 
noses close to the ground. Numbers of these Ante- 
lopes had fallen to our rifles during the lost few days, 
and several of the common Quagga also. That 
quadruped had now entirely supplanted Burchell's 

* I have retailed the term Jlnielope as applied to the Eland, 
Gnoo, Koodoo, and others, with the view of avoiding con- 
fusion, The modem classification of these animals will be 
found in the Appendix. 



Chap, XXXII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



309 



Zebra, and its flesh although infinitely more yellow, 
rank, and oily than that of a horse, was greatly es- 
teemed by the Hottentots. 

During this part of our journey, I again met with 
the Oryx, or Gemsbok, which splendid Antelope 
has been described in an early chapter of my narra- 
tive, as the animal that in all probability gave birth 
to the figure of the fabulous Unicorn. When seen 
en profile, the long straight horns so exactly cover 
each other, that the existence of two might almost 
be doubted ; and whilst rude delineations in this pos- 
ture, have been discovered in many of the Bushman 
caves, the Algazel, a corresponding species in North 
Africa, is to be found similarly represented on the 
sculptured monuments of ancient Egypt and Nubia. 
The Oryx is a powerful and dangerous antagonist, 
charging viciously, and defending itself when hard 
pressed, with wonderful intrepidity and address. Its 
skeleton has not unfrequently been found locked in 
that of a Lion — the latter having been transfixed by 
its formidable horns, in a conflict which has proved 
fatal to both the combatants. 

With the Ostrich,* which was usually common 
during our journey, I conclude my notice of objects 
that especially interest the sportsman. Miserably 
mounted as we were, any attempt to overtake this 



* Slruthio Camdus, Delineated in the African Views. 



310 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Ch*p. XXXIL 



gigantic bird would have been vain, but a shot could 
always be obtained at arm's length by galloping to 
a point in the course it had selected, and from which 
it rarely swerved. The male bird often measures 
nine feet at the crown of the head, and exceeds three 
hundred pounds in weight — the thigh being equal in 
size to the largest leg of mutton. Excepting the costly 
white plumes, so prized by the fair sex, and which 
are chiefly obtained from the wing, instead of from 
the tail, as generally imagined, the color of the body 
is the deepest black in the male bird, and in the 
female a dingy brown. While running, the wings 
are raised above the back, and the clatter of the feet, 
which are only provided with two toes, resembles 
that made by a horse in trotting. The Bechuana, 
with what truth I know not,, are said occasionally to 
domesticate this bird for equestrian purposes; and the 
puny Bushman avails himself of the disguise afforded 
by its skin, to mix with a troop of wild animals, 
and select his victim. At the twang of his tiny bow, 
away scours the herd in dire consternation, and more 
alarmed than all, off scuds the impostor with them, 
again propelling a shaft as soon as the panic has 
subsided. The destruction committed in this man- 
ner is incredible — a slender reed, only slightly tip- 
ped with bone or iron, but imbued with a subtle 
poison, and launched with unerring dexterity, being 
sufficient to destroy the most powerful animal. 



Chap. XXXIf.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



311 



Late in the afternoon, as we were journeying, 
several imp-like figures of human form, were observed 
through a telescope, making with all despatch for 
a neighbouring hill, the summit of which was crowd- 
ed with them. Anxious to obtain information re- 
garding our position, we halted the caravan, and 
made friendly signs to induce the wild beings to ap- 
proach. After warily reconnoitring us from their 
fastnesses, nine of them at length ventured down, and 
having replied to our questions in fear and trembl- 
ing, received some tobacco, and retreated. Their 
intercourse being conducted with such circumspec- 
tion, the sum total of intelligence gained was, that 
Piet Whitefoot, the Coranna Captain, resided about 
three days' journey to the Westward. At sunset, hav- 
ing advanced twenty miles, we crossed a small stream, 
and drew up on the bank, making the whole of 
the cattle fast to the waggons, lest they should fall 
into the hands of the Lilliputians, several of whose 
watch fires were visible on the surrounding: hills. 

The following morning we unyoked for half an 
hour at a small river, near a nest which contained 
upwards of thirty women. These gypsies as usual, 
approached the waggons with great familiarity, point- 
ing to the flatness of their stomachs, and suing for 
tobacco, which luxury was doled out to them by the 
inch. Twenty miles more brought us to another 
deserted camp of the Emigrant farmers, in which 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXXII. 



amongst other interesting marks of human labor, 
stood a lofty scaffolding, used in the manufacture of 
riems or leathern halters. Hence, a made road led 
us across a stream of considerable size, pronounced 
by the followers, with their usual sagacity, to be the 
Rett river, although subsequently it was discovered 
to be the Modder, rising near the Missionary station 
of Thaba Uncha, and joining the Likwa a little above 
the embouchure of the Nu Gareep. The sheep hav- 
ing been placed in a deep pit to prevent them from 
straying, were visited during the night by a party 
of Hyaenas, which slaughtered three, and drove the 
residue to the summit of a high hill, where they were 
found the following morning. 

Having travelled until dark on the 3d without be- 
ing able to discover any water, we halted in a wide 
plain under an isolated hill, which, it will be seen, wa^ 
destined to be the scene of sad disaster and anxiety. 
A party of Bushwomen who had their den among the 
rocks at its base, presently arrived, bringing fuel and 
eatable wild roots for barter. One of them, whose 
foot measured barely four inches in length, was a 
most bewitching creature, and completely turned the 
heads of the Hottentots. Besides being far more 
elaborately embellished with red clay and ornaments 
of fat — and perhaps even more redolent of villainous 
smells than any lady we had hitherto seen, this 
Venus carried a jackal's tail by way of a pocket 



Chap. XXXII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



813 



handkerchief, and spoke the mellifluous Dutch lan- 
guage with surprising fluency. It appeared that she 
had effected her escape from a Boor residing in the 
Sneuwebergen, whose slave she had been from in- 
fancy ; but we could elicit little information of value, 
beyond the existence of a dirty pool about two miles 
distant, whither the cattle were immediately driven. 

Since leaving the Cashan mountains, one or two 
of our oxen had been almost daily abandoned; but 
including Mutlee, the old cow, and a dwarf bull — 
neither of which royal gifts could be worked in the 
teams — we were still the proprietors of thirty-eight 
of sorts. They had fasted the preceding night, and 
the plain being very open, we left them to graze in 
a verdant hollow from which it did not appear proba- 
ble that they would stray. About midnight however, 
the roar of a lion being followed by a general rush 
towards the waggons, Andries was appointed to keep 
watch ; but spent with fatigue he did not preserve his 
vigil long, and the consequence was that at day-break 
not an ox was to be seen. This being an event of 
every day occurrence created so little uneasiness at 
first, that Andries whose business it also was to look 
for them, instead of atoning for his carelessness by 
a suitable display of activity, took his leisure to in- 
dulge in a little more gossip with the pretty Bush girl, 
who very knowingly persuaded him that she had seen 
the cattle not a quarter of a mile off, only a minute 

40 



314 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXII. 

before. In the course of an hour however, the Hot- 
tentots who had gone out to look for them, returned 
for horses — the appearance of the trail leading them 
to believe that the oxen had been chased by Lions. 
Owing to some intestine feuds and jealousies, dif- 
ficult to be explained, Piet alone obtained a steed, 
but Andries and Cobus were also mounted the mo- 
ment we discovered the real state of affairs, and al- 
though much valuable time had been unnecessarily 
thrown away, still no doubt was entertained that the 
oxen would eventually be re covered. All that day 
however, and part of the next were passed it a state 
of anxiety and suspense. During the night it rained 
a deluge, and about 2 p. m. on the 5th, Piet return- 
ed, empty handed for ammunition, or rather for no 
reason at all, having left the other two men upon the 
tracks, which still indicating a chase — led in the di- 
rection of some distant hills. Owing to the hardness 
of the ground, he had been unable to discover the 
cause of the panic. 

In this posture of affairs, I determined to proceed 
in person without another moment's delay, and whilst 
mounting my horse, faithfully promised my comrade 
not to show my face again until I had recovered our 
cattle. Alas! it was destined that I should not 
redeem my pledge. I had cantered about eight 
miles, less than half way to the hills, when Andries 
and Cobus were descried approaching at speed, with 



Chap. XXXII,] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



215 



the dismal intelligence that the oxen were in the hands 
of a troop of Bushmen, occupying the summit of the 
nearest hill, whence one of the pigmies, in broken 
Dutch, had challenged the gallant equestrians to do 
them battle. Cobus, who the morning before, when 
he dreamt not of the real state of the case, had ridden 
forth gasconading of his prowess in arms, now re- 
peated several times emphatically that the contemp- 
tible spokesman had actually defied him in terms 
derogating from his valour. " Here" said he, " Here 
stand your oxen ; come up if you're a man ! Take 
them ye poltroons if ye dare I" Yet although 
mounted, and abundantly supplied with munition, 
these hulking white-livered villains did not blush to 
acknowledge that their personal fears had induced 
them to decline the invitation. Neither was it pos- 
sible now to persuade them to turn back with me; 
the enemy, they declared, being so exceedingly nu- 
merous, and ensconced in so strong a position, that 
nothing could be attempted with so small a force. 

Here then, like sailors who have foundered upon a 
rock when within sight of their destined haven, were 
we — after weathering many a storm, and accomplish- 
ing the most hazardous portion of our journey — left at 
last, a wreck in the desert. The spirit of Ethaldur 
groaned within him, when he thus saw his prediction 
on the eve of being verified, and the lower jaw of 
Oceur de Lion dropped until his beard was dangling 



316 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XIXIL 



at his girdle. To add to his misfortunes, the scanty 
pool upon which our supply of water depended, be- 
ing drained to the dregs, it had become necessary to 
perform a journey of six miles over an enemy's 
country, in order to replenish the tea kettle. 

The vindictive and improvident character of the 
Bushman hordes, rendered it extremely probabla that 
the whole of our unfortunate oxen had already been 
wantonly sacrificed to their malice ; but at all events, 
the day was too far spent to admit of our reaching 
the scene of action before dark, and the night being 
moonless, it was necessary that our attack should be 
delayed until the following morning. The hateful 
squaws had abandoned their kraal the preceding day, 
and it was not unlikely that a party of the marauders 
might be lurking in the hill, ready to fall upon the 
waggons during our temporary absence. After much 
consultation therefore, it was resolved to leave Claas 
and Frederick, who confessed their inability to fight, 
together with the two domestics, whose black beards 
were calculated to instil terror into the stoutest 
heart — starting ourselves with the other five Hotten- 
tots in the dead of night, in order if possible to 
avoid creating suspicion of our departure. All the 
preliminaries of a surprize thus skilfully arranged, 
the best horses were selected and fastened to the 
waggons, and one hundred rounds of ammunition 
having been served out to each of the little band, we 



©hap. XXXI!.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 317 

retired to rest, leaving the watch in charge of 
Ccsurde Lion, with instructions to keep his eye stea- 
dily fixed upon the hands, and not fail to arouse us 
when they pointed to the hour of twelve. 



318 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 



NIGHT ATTACK ON THE MARAUDERS. 

I was still broad awake, conjecturing the success 
of our projected Commando, when the watchful valet 
thrust his well furnished chin under the canvas cur- 
tains of the waggon, and in a tremulous voice pro- 
claimed the midnight hour. A dram of spirits hav- 
ing been issued to each. Hottentot knight with the 
design of inspiring chivalrous sentiments, the skele- 
ton steeds were silently saddled; and not a word hav- 
ing been spoken above a whisper, we commenced our 
march towards the enemy's position. The night was 
cold and clear, and withal gloriously starlight; and 
it was in truth a goodly sight to behold the motley 
band of gay cavaliers, girded about with their furni- 
ture of war,'and carrying their heavy carbines on their 
shoulders, jauntily pricking over the plain. The dis- 
tance of the Bushman castle not being less than eigh- 
teen miles, it was necessary, in order to arrive 
in proper time, that we should move as briskly as 
possible. Ever and anon, as we cantered blindly 
along, in momentary apprehension of losing each 
other, some one of the party was to be seen floun- 



Chap. XXXIH.] EXPEDITION, &c. 



819 



dering among the Meerkat burrows, with which the 
soil was completely undermined. Herds of timid 
Springbucks, upon whose repose we had unceremoni- 
ously obtruded, bounded panic stricken across our 
path; and Gnoos, cantering inquisitively up at inter- 
vals, stood within pistol shot, whisking their stream- 
ing tails, and bellowing defiance. After three hours 
journeying, we arrived on the bank of a narrow 
stream, completely choaked with bulrushes and 
tangled sedge ; shortly after forcing our w r ay through 
which, with incredible difficulty and many casual- 
ties, we descried the Lilliputian fortress rising before 
us in dim perspective. There being yet no glim- 
mering of dawn, we halted for a few minutes 
behind a group of rocks to reconnoitre ; and a coun- 
cil of war being held, it was decided that we 
should ascend the hill on the opposite side, and 
having carried the enemy's position in reverse, by a 
coup de main, should shoot all who made any show 
of resistance. Dismounting therefore, and leading 
our steeds, we noiselessly groped our way among 
crags and brushwood to the summit of the hill ? 
which although rather abrupt in front, was spread 
out into undulations behind. Here the horses hav- 
ing been fastened together by the bridles, were left in 
charge of one of the Hottentots — the rest, with us, 
creeping on all fours towards the table land occu- 
pied by the enemy, of whose increasing proximity? 



320 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXIII. 



our noses began now to apprize us. Cautiously 
peeping with uncovered heads over a natural parapet 
we could presently perceive their fires burning about 
two hundred yards in advance ; and thus securely 
ambushed, scarcely daring even to breathe, we a- 
waited the approach of dawn with a degree of ner- 
vous impatience which may be estimated by those 
who recollect that upon its successful issue, the sal- 
vation of our waggons and property almost entirely 
depended. 

While thus watching the cold darkness of night, 
which seemed as though it would have lasted for- 
ever, the bright morning star — that joyous herald 
whose appearance I had never hailed with greater 
delight, suddenly shot like a rocket above the hori- 
zon. A faint light immediately pervaded the Eastern 
sky, before which as it gradually increased, the stars 
appeared to fade away, while the earth still contin- 
ued in night. Imperceptibly almost, this light had 
presently given place to a ruddy tint, which speedily 
extended itself over the whole vault of heaven; but 
though the outline of objects in the extreme distance 
could now be indistinctly traced, those immediately 
about us were yet shrouded in darkness. Around, 
all was silent as the grave, not a zephyr disturbing 
the death-like stillness that was reigning. As ob- 
jects became gradually plainer, the forms of several 
conical huts could be distinguished, and lastly by a 



Chap. XXXIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



821 



still less dubious light, the prostrate carcases of ma- 
ny of our oxen became visible. Alas! it was then, as 
we had feared ; but if indeed we were irretrievably 
ruined, our moment for taking vengeance had arrived. 
Stealing over the parapet, every rifle was noiselessly 
cocked, and a finger flew to every trigger, as with pal- 
pitating hearts and wary tread, we approached the 
wretched wigwams. Woe unto that luckless wight 
who had there been found sleeping — he would never 
have awoke again. But though smouldering fires 
were smoking in various directions, every cabin was 
deserted; and having visited each in succession, and di- 
ligently searched every nook and corner without being 
able to discover a solitary human being, we turned 
for a moment to contemplate the tragic scene before 
us. Nineteen of our gallant oxen swollen and dis- 
figured with many a wanton wound, were stretched 
in the wild enclosure, from which arose the most 
sickening of savage odours. Lean dogs, 

" Gorging and growling o'er carcase and limb" 
held their carnival over the dead, but were too busy 
even to bark at our intrusion ; while torpid vultures, 
distended to such a size, that they could with difficul- 
ty hop out of our way, were perched like harpies 
upon the surrounding rocks. It was by this time 
broad day light, and a few of our oxen being to our 
great delight perceived standing at the foot of the 

41 



822 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXIIL 



hill, a party was immediately detached to take pos- 
session of them, while we glanced over the field of 
slaughter, to ascertain the extent of our loss. Side 
by side at our feet, and swollen almost to bursting, 
from the effects of a subtile poison, were Holland 
and Oliphant, the two sturdy wheelers of our choice 
Naude span* which had never failed to extricate us 
from every difficulty. Near them, and weltering in 
a pool of bloody lay Lanceman and England, the 
steadiest and staunchest of our leaders. Passing 
onwards our attention was next attracted to a head* 
less trunk, and at no great distance from it — the 
white eyes glaring upon us as if still alive — -was the 
hornless cranium of Mutlee. Every eye turned 
upon the caitiff Andries, and peals of ill-timed merri- 
ment burst from every Hottentot mouth. The arm 
of retribution had for once descended on a right wor- 
thy victim. Maddened with rage at the heart-rend- 
ing prospect before us, again and again did we 
search every chink and cranny, and unweariedly did 
we cast about for the trail of the marauders. " Grim 
satyr-faced baboons" railed hoarsely at us from 
their rocky clefts, and to whichever side we turned, 
the slope of the hill was besprinkled with mouldering 
human bones; but after the closest scrutiny, no object 
could be discovered upon which to wreak our ven- 

# Ten oxen usually compose a span or team, 



Chap, XXXIII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



323 



geance. A Rheebuck, that our early approach had 
disturbed, having bounded through the encampment, 
and given the alarm, the " dwellers with owls and 
bats," although doubtless spectators of all that we 
were doing, had effectually concealed themselves 
from observation, and after the strictest search, nine 
tracks only could be discovered. Of these six were 
females, and one was that of our bewitching acquaint- 
ance. Barely four inches in length, but yet fully 
developed, there could be no mistaking her foot mark^ 
and it now became evident, that whilst she and her 
elfin colleagues had been aiding and abetting to our 
ruin from the very commencement, our luckless fol- 
lowers had fled — not from the overwhelming host 
which their imaginations had conjured into existence 
—but from the empty challenge of a woman given 
from a position, to which either on horseback or on 
foot, they could have ascended without the smallest 
difficulty ! 

Completely frustrated in our endeavours to chas- 
tise the authors of our heavy misfortunes, we at 
length descended the hill in order to muster the rem- 
nant of our ill fated teams ; and little less melancho- 
ly was the prospect that there awaited us. Ex- 
clusive of the old cow, and the equally useless 
black bull, neither of which were touched, seventeen 
drooping wounded wretches, with glazed eyes, and 
fallen crests, were huddled together— some shivering 



324 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXIII. 



in the last agonies of death — and many others 
barely able to rise. In addition to sundry wounds 
which had been inflicted by our merciless and ma- 
licious foes whilst urging them across the plain, 
the unfortunate animals had recently received ma- 
ny cold blooded gashes bestowed apparently with 
the design of rendering them unserviceable to us ; 
and thus crippled it was not without infinite la- 
bour and difficulty that we eventually succeeded in 
driving them to the camp, which we reached long 
after dark. On our way thither, visiting the demon 
kraal, we found a filthy area, enclosed by masses of 
rock heaped together by the hand of nature, and 
overgrown with wild olives; but inhabited only by 
meagre curs, which had been left by the vindictive 
sprites, to guard during their absence, from the as- 
saults of vultures, the garbage and putrid skins with 
which the trees were festooned. 

Taking a review of the whole of this unfortunae 
affair, it was poor consolation to reflect that the 
catastrophe had been brought about by a tissue of the 
grossest neglect, pusillanimity, and mismanagement 
on the part of our followers. Next to the inexcusa- 
ble want of vigilance, and subsequent credulity of 
Andries, in which the whole mischief had originated, 
came the needless and provoking loss of time on 
the morning of the 4th, followed by an extraordinary 
lack of energy and zeal, on the part of the Hottentots 



Chap. XXXllI.j SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



325 



who were sent in quest of the truants. The retreat 
of the marauders, whose adroitness in driving off 
cattle has already been noticed, was doubtless great- 
ly favored by the undulating character of the ground ; 
but if instead of plodding on the trail, the mount- 
ed men had galloped in advance, and reconnoitred the 
country, there can be no doubt that the event would 
have been widely different. An examination of the 
footmarks showed that Piet, in the first instance, 
without any reason whatever, had turned back when 
actually within a quarter of a mile of the plunder- 
ers, whom he must have seen had he ridden to the 
brow of the next eminence. And even after the 
golden opportunity of retaking the greater portion 
of our oxen, had been thrown away through the cow- 
ardice of Andries and Cobus — still the day might have 
been retrieved, had those doughty characters been 
persuaded to accompany me to thehill, as I repeatedly 
urged them to do. In the end, it appeared that the for- 
mer of these worthies, had some days before sold his 
ox to the latter for a stipulated sum which was to be 
paid on arrival at Graaff Reinet ; and never was their 
apathy and indifference to the interest of their masters, 
more perfectly illustrated than on the present occa- 
sion — the irreparable loss which we, through their a- 
gency, had sustained, being totally merged in a dis- 
pute which had arisen between the two principal delin- 
quents as to which was to be considered the owner 
and loser of the one eyed Mutlee. 



326 



EXPEDITION, &c. [Chap. XXXIII. 



It rained pitilessly during the night, and in the 
morning three of our oxen were stiff and cold, four 
others being quite unable to rise. The accursed 
women who had in a great measure been Instrumen- 
tal to this disastrous state of affairs, had neverthe- 
less in some degree assisted us in finding the remedy 
— the pretty Bush girl having informed us that there 
was a Boor's habitation about two days' journey to 
the Westward of our camp. To that quarter every 
eye had been anxiously turned; and as another 
cheerless evening closed upon us, unusual columns of 
dust which arose in the distant horizon, appeared to 
be indicative of flocks returning from pasture. It 
was therefore resolved that I shouldset forth immedi- 
ately in that direction in search of assistance, leaving 
Richardson to proceed to a point agreed upon, at 
whatever pace six suffering oxen could transport 
our heavy vans; and that failing to discover the 
Farmer's residence, of which even the existence was 
extremely uncertain, I should make the best of my 
way to the Colony, now probably less than one hun- 
dred miles distant, whence, having procured fresh 
teams, I could return to the relief of the wreck with 
all practicable expedition. 



327 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 



EXCURSION ON HORSEBACK IN QUEST OF ASSIST- 
ANCE, AND MEETING WITH THE EMIGRANT 
FARMERS. 

So dreadfully had our horses suffered during the 
late campaign, that it was with considerable difficulty 
I succeeded in selecting from the whole drove, three 
that appeared fit for service. With these, and a 
good supply of ammunition, I set out on the morning 
of the 8th of January, attended by Andries, and 
joyfully turned my back upon the disastrous hill, near 
which we had been so long spell-bound. Proceeding 
several miles to the Westward, we ascended a high 
barren range, overlooking an extensive valley, and 
soon discovered that the columns of dust which had 
been greeted as the harbingers of relief from our 
misfortunes, were occasioned by the mad careering 
of troops of Gnoos. Thus disappointed, we swept 
round to the Southward, and night closing in after 
we had ridden about forty miles, we lay down to 
sleep in an olive brake, onthe bank of a small stream. 
It rained very heavily for some hours, and the bushes 
not keeping out the water, rather added to than di- 
minished the discomfort, so that I had sufficient reason 



328 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXIY. 



to rejoice at the return of day light. Continu- 
ing our search in parallel lines along the heights, I 
reconnoitred the whole country through a telescope, 
and after having been twice deceived by herds of 
Springbucks, at length discovered a veritable flock 
of sheep, grazing in a distant valley. Overjoyed at 
the discovery, I hastened towards the spot, and turn- 
ing the flank of a detached range, a most cheering 
prospect was suddenly opened to my view. Forty 
Dutch Colonists with their kith and kin, were en- 
camped on the banks of the Calf river, where it 
wound between two ranges of hills; the assemblage 
of snow white waggon tilts, around which herds of 
oxen, and droves of horses were grazing, imparting 
to the animating scene the appearance of a country 
fair. Several women, attended by their husbands, 
w 7 ere washing linen in the river, but as both sexes 
declined holding any communication with me, I rode 
up to the nearest tent, and learnt from a slave boy 
that it belonged to Christian Breck. Pipe in mouth, 
the portly Baas or master presently sallied forth, 
and after the customary salutation, I enquired how 
many days' journey it was to the Great river. In- 
stead of receiving any reply to this question how- 
ever, I was elaborately catechized as to my age, 
name, residence, calling, destination, and domestic 
history. The mention of " Sillekat's land*' while it 
elicited an oath, and an exclamation of surprise, 



Chap. XXXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 329 



procured me also an invitation to Ci saddle off;" and 
walking with mine host into the pall, I was mi- 
nutely scrutinized through a pair of spectacles by 
the good vrouw, who was seated agreeably to 
Colonial custom, with her feet over a warming 
pan. Neither my ragged and weather beaten ap- 
pearance, nor my patriarchal beard, were pleasing 
to the old lady on first acquaintance, but as I was now 
na accomplished Dutch scholar, we speedily became 
better friends ; and after I had patiently satisfied her 
curiosity also, on all points connected with my pri- 
vate biography, a Hottentot girl was directed to set 
before me a plate full of mutton bones drowned in 
Chili vinegar; to which savory dish the mistress ad- 
ded an apology for the absence of bread. Over this 
frugal meal, I detailed my misfortunes, which pro- 
voked but little sympathy, although the offer of a 
bribe in tea and snuff readily induced Mynheer 
Breck to desire his son and nephew to accompany me 
with two spans of oxen, for the purpose of bring- 
ing up the waggons. Several other Boors joining 
the party whilst the preparations were being made, I 
fortunately succeeded in hiring a couple of horses 
from them, my own three being completely ex- 
hausted. 

Escorted by my young Dutch friends, with two 
frisky teams, which had been selected from their nu- 
merous well conditioned herds, I again set forth at 

42 



330 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap, XXXIV. 



two o'clock, to rejoin my wrecked fellow traveller, 
who, advancing at a snail's pace, was not a little 
rejoiced at my speedy return. We encamped, from 
necessity, about eight miles South of the execrated 
hill, upon which the Hottentots, with a design of 
perpetuating their chivalrous exploits, had conferred 
the appellation of Bushman's Kop. It again brought 
us evil fortune. The timidity of our little flock of 
sheep had increased in the ratio of their reduction in 
numerical strength ; and during this night, all efforts 
to keep them near the waggons proving abortive, 
they dashed for the last time into the wilderness, and 
we saw them no more. Leaving Frederick to hunt 
for his truant charge we pursued our journey at a 
merry pace in the morning, and after experiencing 
much difficulty in crossing the Calf river, the bottom 
of which is extremely muddy, we reached the trek- 
hoor's encampment. Like most of the Cape Colo- 
nists, our juvenile allies held English men and Eng- 
lish rifles in equal contempt^ and until I had shot 
two Gnoos for their edification, at four hundred yards, 
were not ta be persuaded that a barrel under four 
feet in length, or of smaller calibre than their awn 
clumsy roers, could be of the slightest avail. The 
Gnoo and Spring-buck, although still abundant, had 
become now so exceedingly wild from constant per- 
secution, that during the rest of our journey I found 
it requisite to display a red handkerchief on the muz- 



Chap. XXXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



331 



zle of my rifle in order to inveigle the former within 
shot This exhibition invariably produced the most 
violent excitement, and caused the herd to charge 
past in single file — following their leader — flinging 
out their heels, lashing their tails, and butting with 
their horns in so menacing a manner, that I was not 
unfrequently compelled to strike my colors- 

Our object now being to recruit our teams and 
lighten the waggons of all redundant stores, we lost 
not a moment in opening a winkel, or shop — propos- 
ing to exchange for oxen, either tea, sugar, snuff, 
meal, lead, or gunpowder. But although these arti- 
cles were all in especial demand, we found it impos- 
sible to negociate by barter — that being a mode of 
dealing which, strange to say, they appeared quite 
unable to comprehend. After repeatedly shaking 
the wheels of our admirable waggons, in order to 
ascertain whether they " ran lightly/' we received 
many generous offers of shattered rickety vehicles, 
with a few indifferent oxen, in exchange for them ; 
but ultimately we found ourselves obliged to refer to 
our treasury, which fortunately still containing two 
hundred and fifty rix dollars, we were enabled to 
purchase a few head of cattle to begin with — receiv- 
ing back the cash in payment for our wares, and 
again disbursing it for more oxen — until, having re- 
alized the requisite number, we had still ten shillings 
left in our pockets to carry us to Graff* Reinet, 



332 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXIV. 

In the course of conversation at a tea party given 
to the ladies and gossips of the Dutch camp, we 
learnt that they had left Colesberg three months be- 
fore, and were on their way to join the Emigrants, 
who were assembled at the head of the Modder river, 
near the Rev. Mr. Archbell's Missionary station at 
Thaba Uncha, lying about two days journey East- 
ward of the scene of our catastrophe. The men 
spoke in the most contemptuous terms of Moselekat- 
se, regarding whom, nevertheless, they were greatly 
inquisitive; informing us that they were awaiting the 
return of a Commando under Gert Maritz, our 
GraafF Reinet acquaintance, who had marched some 
time before to invade the Matabili territories and 
crush the despot. I must add also, that the cir- 
cumstance of our having been well received by His 
Majesty, and suffered to escape with our lives — while 
it elicited every one's astonishment, appeared also to 
create a general feeling of jealousy and dissatisfac- 
tion. 

Again there was a drenching rain all night, and 
two more of our finest oxen being completely power- 
less from their wounds, we presented them to young 
Breck, in part acknowledgment for his Father's as- 
sistance, and pursued our journey on the morning of 
the eleventh. Even to the Colonial boundary, we 
had still a weary distance before us, and grass was 
represented to be extremely scarce; but we now 



Chap. XXXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



333 



travelled with fresh oxen along a beaten waggon 
road, an accommodation to which we had been 
strangers for several months. In the course of the 
forenoon, we were met by a Farmer from Beaufort 
on the Karroo, with a Hottentot achter ryder, or 
footman., going to kek as he called it, or in other 
words, to see how the Emigrants were likely to thrive, 
before selling his own farm. On learning that we 
were from Sillekat's land his first question was, 
"How the Kafirs had happened to let us come out 
in a sound skin?" And this in fact, wherever we 
went, was the theme of wonder and astonishment — 
few being able to understand the difference between 
conciliating a savage with presents, and entering his 
territories uninvited. 

In the course of this day's journey, which occu- 
pied nine hours, we crossed the Riet river, and were 
rejoined by Frederick, who reported that he had seen 
the remnant of our flock safe in the hands of a par- 
ty of Bushmen, whom, although mounted and ar- 
med himself, he durst not approach. It was waxing 
late, when volumes of dust attracted our attention 
to countless flocks of sheep that were being driven 
from pasture ; following which, and entering a gorge 
in the hills, an astounding panorama burst upon the 
sight. A lone green valley, which stretched between 
two ranges of rocky hills, lay extended before us, 
and, covered in every direction with white waggon 



334 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXXIV. 



tilts, canvas palls, bell tents, oxen, horses, sheep, 
and human beings, literally presented the appear- 
ance of the encampment of a goodly army. Hav- 
ing obtained permission from a Dutchman named 
Humans to unyoke in an unoccupied spot, we again 
opened our negotic winkel: but coming from Mosele- 
katse's country by the forbidden route, every one 
appeared suspicious of our object, and declined to 
barter their oxen. The next morning however, (the 
12th) being on our journey some miles, we were 
overtaken by a youth with pack horses, who came 
from the Emigrant camp provided with monies for 
the purchase of leaden balls. 

Advancing, we passed several filthy kraals of Gri- 
quas under Dam Kok, a hybrid Chieftain residing at 
Phillipolis; and halting for an hour at one of them, 
the fellows clamorously demanded to see the portrait 
of their arch enemy which they understood from the 
Hottentots I had brought. The Napoleon of Southern 
Africa having been accordingly exhibited at the end 
of the waggon, they spit at, and offered him every in- 
dignity — their Captain, a diabolical looking ruffian, 
whose head had been turned by "the school master'' 
at his elbow, logically enquiring "whether he had not 
as good a right to put us to death for shooting ducks 
on his tank, without paying for the same, as Mosele- 
katse to destroy the Griquas who hunted Zeekoe's in 
the Likwa 1 " They at last became so exceedingly 



Chap, XXXIV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



335 



insolent and overbearing, that we were fain to de 
camp ; and Cobus and April, who had contrived to ob= 
tain some brandy from their country-women, attempt- 
ing to desert at the same time, we narrowly escaped 
adding the whole of our horses to the catalogue of our 
losses. 

Great had been the pointing of fingers, and long 
and loud the discussions touching the Geographical 
position of Phillipolis — one declaring his conviction 
that it still bore to the South-east, and another to the 
South-west. About sunset however, having now 
achieved upwards of three hundred and fifty miles, in 
straight line from the Cash an mountains, a peak rose 
to view, which being unanimously recognized, and 
acknowledged to mark the position of the Mission- 
ary station, was hailed, as a beacon on the sea-shore 
is hailed by mariners after a long and dangerous voy- 
age. Our followers were now as bold as lions; and 
an unusually diminutive Bushman injudiciously pre- 
senting himself with the humble salutation of " Go- 
en-dakha, tabakka," ("good morrow gentlemen., 
some tobacco if you please,*') was flogged with the 
long waggon whip within an inch of his life. Twen- 
ty-five miles the following day brought us to an ex- 
tensive lodge of Griquas under Captain Abraham 
Barend, where we passed the night, and in exchange 
for tea and snuff, obtained from the civil old man the 
luxuries of fowls and milk, to which we had so long 
been entire strangers, 



336 



CHAPTER XXXV, 



RETURN TO CIVILIZATION, AND ARRIVAL IN THE 
CAPE COLONY. 

On the afternoon of the 14th, having advanced 
some sixteen miles through a dreadful storm of dust, 
which literally darkened the atmosphere, the rush- 
ing of mighty waters suddenly announced our ap- 
proach to the Great river. Hastening to the bank, 
our mortification may be imagined at perceiving from 
the agitated and muddy tide, and the drift wood 
which was borne past by the impetuosity of the cur- 
rent, that it had only just then become swollen. A 
farmer had brought over his light horse waggon with 
some difficulty a quarter of an hour before, but to 
cross now was impossible. Two tedious days were 
passed in watching the willowed banks — the troubled 
waters now subsiding sufficiently to tantalize us with 
the prospect of being shortly able to pass over, and 
again receiving a fresh accession of the turbid ele- 
ment. Andries, who was in the bosom of his fami- 
ly, bore the calamity without a murmur, until certain 
misdeeds, committed when sent from Bok's fontein 
in pursuit of the truant horses, accidentally transpir- 
ing—even he was unable longer to bear the detention, 



Chap. XXXV.] EXPEDITION, &c. 337 

and he then obligingly informed us of the existence of 
a raft, a few miles higher up the river, of which he had 
hitherto carefully kept us in ignorance. Proceeding 
thither we found the river straightened between rocky 
sides,, to one third of its usual breadth ; and after we 
had bribed a man to swim across in order to summon 
the proprietor of the float, whose house was some 
miles distant, our waggons were at length taken to 
pieces, and transported wheel by wheel into the Colony. 
This tedious operation occupied an entire day, and 
so frightfully strong was the current, that in bringing 
the oxen across, poor Whitefoot, the only survivor 
of our Naude team, that till now had escaped un- 
scathed, and had never once failed us during our long 
pilgrimage, was clumsily forced under the raft, and 
drowned. Some consolation, however, was to be de- 
rived from the information that our loss was com- 
paratively trifling, a loaded waggon having a short 
time before slipped off the raft, and gone bodily to 
the bottom. 

At length then, we were fairly standing upon the 
civilized ground of the Hantam. Loud was the 
shouting and huzzaing, and many were the dischar- 
ges of musquetry, that proclaimed the fact, of which 
however, the inhospitable conduct of an insolent boor, 
named Pienaar, at whose farm we passed the night, 
might almost have rendered us sceptical. Not a 
blade of grass met the eye from this moment; and 

43 



838 



EXPEDITION INTO 



[Chap. XXXV, 



as we were penniless, we could only obtain with 
difficulty provisions in exchange for tea, sugar, and 
tar; which last, being used in the composition for 
greasing the wheels, (an operation which it w T as 
found necessary to perform every other day) was 
fortunately in great demand amongst the Boors. 
Every Hottentot now tricked himself out in Ostrich 
plumes, and dragged to light some hidden article of 
finery which had been reserved against his return 
amongst his clansmen, for whose especial edification 
he had also prepared right wondrous tales of his 
deeds in arms, and his perils by field and flood. The 
town of Colesberg being known to possess a licens- 
ed retailer of ardent spirits, we preferred passing 
the night of the 18th without water, to visiting it; 
but after all, it was only by frequent pointed allu- 
sions to field Cornets, and Clerks of the Peace, that 
the impatient and thirsty souls were prevented from 
absconding thither. 

On the 21st we struck into the high road near 
Dassies Fontein, where we had the happiness of 
finding our ancient Kafir acquaintance inhaling his 
Dacca with unabated industry. Our followers too 
were unexpectedly met by a party of their cronies 
with waggons from Graaff Reinet, who greeted them 
as men risen from the dead, with the astounding in- 
telligence that a report had gone forth in the Colony 
of our whole party having been put to death by the 



Chap, XXXV.] 



SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



King. It was known that we were in the neighbour- 
hood of the Emigrants at the time of their massacre, 
and so long a time having elapsed without any ti- 
dings being received of our safety, the tongue of ru- 
mour had not been idle. Our Colonial friends, who 
had entertained so contemptuous an idea of our tra- 
velling capabilities, were by no means unprepared 
for this dismal intelligence, which had spread far and 
wide, and was even credited at the Cape. Un- 
important though it may appear, it had nevertheless 
proved the death blow to the domestic happiness of 
most of our followers—their faithless consorts hav- 
ing soon forgotten their plighted vows, and embrac- 
ed the earliest opportunity of casting aside their 
widow's weeds. The report was subsequently trac- 
ed to a Lothario from the frontier, who had actually 
backed the offer of his hand and heart to Ethalduar's 
relict, with the assurance that he had himself perform- 
ed the last melancholy offices for her husband, to 
whose corpse the infidels had offered indignities too 
barbarous to be here recorded. 

Sixty-nine casualties had already occurred amongst 
our oxen; and on the 24th, another victim being 
left in the Sneuwebergen, we had barely a suffi- 
cient number remaining to drag our waggons into 
the village of Graaff Reinet. This dreadful mor- 
tality, which, although partly attributable to the 



340 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXV. 



rapidity of our march, was owing in a still greater 
measure to the neglect and cowardice of the Hotten- 
tots, eventually swelled the expenses of the expedi- 
tion to £ 800 sterling. But it is proper to state for 
the information of those of my Indian friends who 
may resolve upon such a campaign, that by entertain- 
ing a sufficient number of Europeans to keep the Hot- 
tentots in awe ; and, employing also a third waggon to 
carry out grain for the best horses, as well as to bring 
back ivory and rare quadrupeds to the Colony, the 
expedition might be made to cover its own expenses. 
In addition to the Sable Antelope, which had travelled 
the whole way on my cot, and was, a source of con- 
stant anxiety, my collection consisted of two perfect 
Crania of every species of game quadruped to be 
found in Southern Africa, together with skins of the 
Lion, Quagga, Zebra, Ostrich, &c, tails of the Ca- 
meleopard, and tusks of Elephants and Hippopo- 
tami, besides elaborate drawings of every animal 
that interests the sportsman from the tall Giraffe to 
the minutest Antelope. 

The unlooked for return of the "two Indian Gen- 
tlemen " from the interior, together with the exhibi- 
tion of these creditable trophies, most of which were 
novelties to the oldest resident, created a consider- 
able revolution of sentiment in our favor ; hundreds 
now declaring that had they only been aware of our 
intention of visiting "the terror of the Interior/* 



Chap. XXXV.J SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



841 



(whose portrait was not considered the least attrac- 
tive of our curiosities,) nothing on earth should have 
deterred them from taking part in so interesting an 
adventure. There is doubtless a wide difference be- 
twixt setting out and returning, but I can assure these 
enterprising travellers, that unless the trackless desert 
hath charms for me, which it would not possess in the 
eyes of the less enthusiastic, they would have found 
no cause to repent of their rashness. To all others 
I prefer a life of adventure — its very privations, when 
coupled with scenes such as I have attempted to de- 
scribe, constituting an excitement peculiarly adapted 
to my humour. The tracts through which we tra- 
velled extending into the temperate Zone, and being 
surrounded also on three sides by the ocean, while 
they possess the advantage of a moderate climate, 
are the nursery of the noblest quadrupeds. There 
was something truly soul-stirring and romantic in 
wandering among these free born denizens of the des- 
ert — realizing as it were a new creation, in regions 
hitherto seldom, if ever, trodden by white man's 
foot. During the whole period that we were absent 
from the Colony, I never once omitted to take the 
field at break of day, or as soon after as the weather 
would permit, frequently preparing my own break- 
fast, and never returning unladen with spoils. Firmly 
determined to bring back correct delineations of the 
whole of the ferae naturae inhabiting Africa, South of 



342 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXV. 



the Tropic, I never moved without drawing materials 
in my hunting cap, and found ample employment for 
the pencil as well as for the rifle, 

The Indian traveller who has been accustomed to 
the accommodation afforded by tents and retinue, can 
form little conception of the ten thousand difficulties, 
distresses, and draw-backs, that beset the wanderer in 
the African Desert. Nearly all my sketches were 
made under a bush in the open air, and completed on 
my knees in the waggon amid rain and wind — the 
Zoological specimens, which I had in the first instance 
realized and brought home myself, being subsequent- 
ly prepared with my own hand. Nothing could ex- 
ceed the annoyance given by the Hottentots,, whose 
indolence and indifference throughout the journey, 
obliged us frequently to rise during the night — the 
rain, which pursued us whithersoever we went, 
heightening in no small degree the discomforts we 
experienced. Nor shall I deny that we sometimes 
sighed for the luxuries to which we had been accus- 
tomed ; bread and meat, with simple tea or coffee, 
forming for many months our monotonous diet. But 
in spite of all these hardships and privations, toil- 
some and tedious as our journey frequently was, 
across deserts of utterly hopeless sterility, we were 
more than amply repaid by the unparalleled magni- 
ficence of the sport that we enjoyed ; and I can safely 
aver that some of the happiest days of my existence 



Chap. XXXV.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



343 



have been passed in the wilds of Africa. They form 
a passage in my life which time can never efface from 
the tablet of my recollection — a green spot in memo- 
ry's waste, to which, in after years I shall revert with 
intense and unabating pleasure, 



344 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 



SKETCH OF THE EMIGRATION OF THE BORDER 
COLONISTS. 

The abandonment of the Cape Colony by the old 
Dutch inhabitants, to which I have so frequently had 
occasion to allude, and which has in fact become com- 
pletely interwoven with the thread of my narrative, 
has no parallel in the history of British Colonial 
possessions. Partial emigrations are by no means 
uncommon, as the existence of the Colony itself 
sufficiently proves, but here is an instance of a body 
of between five and six thousand souls, who have 
with one accord abandoned the land of their nativity, 
and the homes of their forefathers — endeared to 
them by every interesting association — and have 
recklessly plunged into the pathless wilds of the in- 
terior ; braving the perils and hardships of the wil- 
derness, and, many of them already in the vale of 
years — seeking out for themselves another dwelling 
place in a strange and inhospitable soil. 

The first question that presents itself must natu- 
rally be, what has led to so extraordinary an ex- 
patriation ? The losses to which they have been 



Chap. XXXVJ.] EXPEDITION, &c. 



345 



subjected by the emancipation of their slaves; the 
absence of laws for their protection from the evils of 
uncontrolled vagrancy, and from the depredations 
of the swarm of vagabonds by which the Colony is 
infested; but, above all, the insecure state of the 
Eastern frontier, and the inadequate protection af- 
forded by the English Government against the ag- 
gressions of their wily and restless Kafir neighbours, 
by whose repeated predatory incursions the fairest 
spots have been laid desolate, and many hundreds 
of the border Colonists reduced to ruin, are the in- 
citing causes assigned by the Emigrants, for the un- 
precedented and hazardous step they have taken. 

If it be impossible to view the violent remedy 
sought by these oppressed but misguided men in 
other than a criminal light, yet no unprejudiced per- 
son who has visited the more remote districts of this 
unhappy Colony, will hesitate to acknowledge that 
the evils they complain of actually exist. Long 
subjected to the pilferings of a host of Hottentot 
vagrants, whose lives are passed in one perpetual 
round of idleness, delinquency, and brutish intoxi- 
cation on the threshold of the gin-shop, the South 
African settler has lately, in too many instances, 
beeaa reduced from comparative affluence to want, 
by being unseasonably, and without adequate com- 
pensation bereft of the services of his slaves : who, 
prone to villainy, and no longer compelled to labour, 

44 



846 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVi. 



have only served to swell the swarm of drones by 
which it is his destiny to be persecuted. Far great- 
er than these, however, are the evils that have arisen 
out of the perverse misrepresentations of canting and 
designing men, to whose mischievous and gratuitous 
interference, veiled under the cloak of philanthropy, 
is principally to be attributed the desolated condition 
of the Eastern frontier ; bounded as it is, by a dense 
and almost impenetrable jungle, to defend which nine 
times the military force now employed would barely 
be adequate ; and flanked by a population of eighty 
thousand dire, irreclaimable savages, naturally inimi- 
cal, warlike, and predatory, by whom the hearths of 
the Cape Border Colonists have for years past been 
deluged with the blood of their nearest and dearest 
relatives. And whilst, during the unprovoked in- 
roads of these ruthless barbarians, their wives and 
helpless offspring have been mercilessly butchered 
before their eyes ; whilst their corn-fields have been 
laid waste, their flocks swept off, and their houses 
reduced to ruins, to add bitterness to gall, they have 
been taunted as the authors of their own misfortunes, 
by those, who strangely biassed by ex-parte state- 
ments, have judged them unheard, at the distance 
of several thousand miles, from the scene of pillage, 
bloodshed, and devastation. 

It does indeed furnish matter of amazement to 
every thinking person, bow such a state of things 



Chap. XXXVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



84? 



should so long have been suffered to exist; how 
those who have legislated for the affairs of the Colony 
should not long ago, have seen the imperious neces- 
sity, dictated alike by reason, justice, and humanity, 
of exterminating from off the face of the earth, a 
race of monsters, who, being the unprovoked de- 
stroyers, and implacable foes of Her Majesty's 
Christian subjects, have forfeited every claim to 
mercy or consideration. Denied redress however, 
and deprived of the power of avenging themselves 
of the wrongs under which they have writhed, in 
utter hopelessness of recovering their property or 
even enjoying future tranquillity, the Border Colo- 
nists have at length thrown off the yoke of their al- 
legiance ; and whilst seeking out for themselves an 
asylum in other lands, are now retorting upon our 
allies, the injuries they have so long sustained at 
their hands. 

My visit to Moselekatse, and subsequent return 
by the hitherto unexplored route of the Vaal river, 
afforded me opportunities of observing the proceed- 
ings beyond the boundary, of these voluntary exiles, 
and of making myself acquainted with their position 
in relation to the numerous native tribes, by which 
they are surrounded. Neither being correctly un- 
derstood, I shall endeavour as briefly as possible to 
trace their steps from the commencement of the 
emigration* 



848 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVI. 



Weary of the insecurity of their homes, several 
of the frontier Farmers, who had heard much of the 
soil and capabilities of Port Natal, resolved to de- 
cide for themselves on the accuracy of these reports, 
forming a large party, and with ten or twelve wag- 
gons, proceeded to explore the country. So well 
pleased were they with what they saw, that they for- 
med a determination of locating themselves in that 
neighbourhood, and returned forthwith for their fami- 
lies, when the breaking out of the last Kafir war 
obliged them to postpone the execution of their 
design. 

Shortly after the conclusion of hostilities, the first 
party of actual Emigrants, consisting of about thir- 
ty families, left the Colony under the guidance of 
an Albany Farmer, named Louis Triechard. Being 
desirous of eluding the Kafir tribes, they proceeded 
across the Great river in a North-easterly direction, 
skirting the mountain chain which divides CafTraria 
from Bechuana Land ; with the intention, when they 
had cleared it, of turning to the East- ward, and gain- 
ing the neighbourhood of Port Natal. The features 
presented by this barrier are rugged and forbidding in 
the extreme ; they have the appearance of innumera- 
ble pyramidical hills thrown together in the most 
grotesque and disorderly manner : one peak jutting 
beyond, or soaring above the other, as though pre- 
cluding the possibility of any human foot, much less 



Chap. XXXVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



349 



any wheeled vehicle, from passing over; and, from 
the imperfect knowledge possessed by the wanderers, 
of that section of Southern Africa, the geography 
of which is still veiled in considerable obscurity, 
they were led by the course of the mountains far be- 
yond the latitude of Port Natal and found themselves 
about the end of May 1836, in a fertile but uninhabit- 
ed waste, lying between the £6lh and 27th parallels 
of South latitude, on the Eastern banks of the large 
and beautiful river, noticed in a former part of this 
Narrative, which flows sluggishly through a level 
tract in a North-easterly direction, and is said to 
join the Oori or Limpopo, and discharge its waters 
into the Bay of Delagoa. 

From this point, in order to reach the unoccupied 
country about Natal, it would have been necessary 
to traverse the whole length of Dingaan's dominions, 
a journey fraught with difficulties of the most for- 
midable kind, and opposed by a climate of the most 
destructive character. And, as the newly discovered 
country was abundantly watered, abounded in game, 
and afforded all the materials requisite for building, 
the further progress of the Emigrants was for the 
present discontinued. 

The example thus set by Louis Triechard was 
speedily followed by many of his countrymen. Nu- 
merous parties were formed on the frontier by the 
Bolder Colonists* who, with their families and flocks, 



350 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVI. 



crossed the Great river, and dived into the very 
depths of the wilderness; with no very clear idea 
perhaps of what their ultimate destination was to be, 
but yet firmly determined to abandon their native 
hearths for ever, and to fix their future residence in 
some distant land. For the sake of obtaining pas- 
turage for their numerous herds, and in opposition to 
the advice of the Missionaries through whose stations 
they passed, by whom they were warned of the immi- 
nent risk that they would incur from the native tribes, 
they scattered themselves heedlessly along the luxu- 
riant banks of the Likwa or Vaal river, with the de- 
sign of remaining until the country in advance should 
be explored, and their plans digested and arranged. 

About the end of May, two parties headed by J. 
S. Bronkhorst, and H. Potgeiter, left the Emigrant 
camp for the purpose of exploring the country to 
the North-eastward. They visited Louis Triechard 
at the Zout-pans-berg, or salt pan hill, and penetrat- 
ed sixteen days' journey beyond, through a lovely, 
fertile, and unoccupied country, until they arrived 
within six days' journey of Delagoa Bay, where 
they met with two sons of the notorious Conrad 
Buys, living amongst a friendly tribe of natives, 
whom, from a peculiarity in the nasal prominence, 
they nignified with the appellation of "knob-nosed 
kafirs," Returning hence by a nearer route with 



Chap. XXXVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



35 1 



the account of their success, and of the discovery of 
a land flowing with milk and honey, they found their 
camp totally deserted, and the ground strewed with 
the mutilated bodies of their friends and relations ! 
The migratory Farmers had been attacked three 
days before, by Moselekatse, and twenty-eight of 
their number had been butchered. 

It will have been seen from the foregoing pages, 
that the country over which this powerful and des- 
potic Prince claims sovereignty, is of great extent, 
and is bounded on the South by the Likwa, or Vaal 
river, one of the two principal branches of the Ga- 
reep. From that direction he had been repeatedly 
attacked by Jan Bloem, a notorious and often suc- 
cessful freebooter, and by other leaders of predatory 
bands of Griquas, who had scoured his territories, 
and swept , away his cattle. In 1831, it has been 
shown, he was last attacked by a strong Commando 
of Barend Barend's Griquas, who succeeded in ob- 
taining possession of the whole of the Matabili herds ; 
and, all the regular warriors of Moselekatse being 
absent at the time on an expedition to the North- 
ward, the ruin of the tribe had nearly been accom- 
plished. Owing, however to a want of proper pre- 
caution on the part of the invaders, they were sig- 
nally defeated by a mere handful of irregulars, who 
attacked them during the night, and ere the day dawn- 
ed, had slaughtered the greater part of them, 



352 SOUTHERN AFRICA, [Chap. XXXVI, 



Since that occurrence, Moselekatse had publicly 
and positively prohibited any trader or traveller 
from visiting him, or entering his territories from 
that quarter: whilst, to guard against the inroads of 
his enemies, strong armed parties were frequently sent 
to scour the country watered by the Likwa. But, on 
the other hand, he declared his willingness to receive 
as friends, those visiters who might find it convenient 
to approach him by way of Kuruman or New Li- 
takoo, having the most implicit confidence in Mr. 
Moffat the enlightened Missionary at that Station, 
through whose assistance only they could effect an 
entrance. 

Can it be wondered at, under these circumstances, 
that Moselekatse should have viewed with a jealous 
and suspicious eye, the sudden advance of so for- 
midable a body of strangers from the forbidden quar- 
ter, to the very borders, if not actually within the 
confines of his territories ? Without so fair a pre- 
text as their open defiance of his commands afforded 
him, would it have been surprising that the tempta- 
tion afforded by the fat flocks and herds of his new, 
opulent, and very unceremonious neighbours, should 
have induced the despot to impart a lesson which 
might inculcate the necessity of at least propitiating 
him with presents, which are known to be the only 
sure road to the friendship or good offices of a sav- 
age ? Towards the close of August, a Commando 



Chap. XXXVI.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



consisting of about five hundred Matabili warriors, 
was despatched from Mosega for this very purpose. 
On their way to plunder the Emigrants, who were 
encamped in scattered detachments along the Vaal 
river, they accidentally fell in with Stephanus Eras- 
mus, who had been on a hunting expedition still far- 
ther to the Northward, and was then on his return 
to the Colony by the forbidden route. Arriving at 
his waggons in the evening with one of his sons, 
and finding them surrounded by a host of armed sav- 
ages, he precipitately fled to the nearest Emigrant 
camp, about five hours' ride on horseback from his 
own, where, having succeeded in persuading a party 
of eleven Farmers to accompany him, he returned 
towards the spot. On the way thither they were met 
by the barbarians, whose impetuous onsets obliged 
them to seek refuge within the encampment. A 
severe struggle ensued, but the enemy were finally 
repulsed with great slaughter, and the loss, on the 
part of the farmers, of only one man named Bronk- 
horst. 

This was however but the prelude to a more bloody 
tragedy. A party of the Matabili soldiers had in 
the mean time detached itself from the main body, 
and fallen upon nine other waggons that were as- 
sembled at a distance from the principal eamp. The 
waggons were saved, but the greater part of the 
flocks and herds were carried off, and twenty-four 

45 



354 



EXPEDITION, &c. [Chap. XXXVf, 



persons massacred ; viz, Barend Liebenberg, Sen. 
Stephanus., Hendrick, and Barend Liebenberg, Jun. 
Johannes de Toit, an English schoolmaster named 
McDonald, Mrs. H. Liebenberg, Mrs. De Toit, 
four children, and twelve black servants. 

Six day's after this catastrophe, Erasmus's curiosity 
prompted him to ascertain the fate of his family and 
property. Proceeding to the spot he found the bo- 
dies of his five black slaves, and could distinguish 
the wheel tracks of his five waggons going in a 
northerly direction. Two of his sons, and a youth 
named Carel Kruger, had been taken prisoners, and 
it was afterwards ascertained that having attempted 
to effect their escape, they were mercilessly put to 
death on their way to the King, 



355 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 



EMIGRATION OF THE BORDER COLONISTS, 
CONCLUDED. 

Almost immediately after this disastrous occur- 
rence, being rejoined by the parties that had pro- 
ceeded to explore the Nortb-east country, the mi- 
gratory Farmers fell back about four days' journey 
from their first position to the South side of the Vaal 
river; and encamped near the embouchure of the 
Donkin — one of its principal tributaries, called by 
the natives the Nama Hari. Here they remained in 
blind and fancied security, without taking any steps 
towards an amicable understanding with the King, 
until the end of October. They had scarcely re- 
covered from the confusion into which they bad been 
thrown by the first attack, when, to their great 
consternation, they received intimation of the near 
approach of another and far more formidable body 
of Moselekatse J s warriors. Retreat being impossi- 
ble, they sedulously applied themselves to fortifying 
their position. They drew up their fifty waggons 
in a compact circle, closing the apertures be- 
tween and beneath them with thorn bushes, which 
they firmly lashed with leathern thongs to the 



356 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVII. 



wheels and dissel-booms ; * and constructing within 
the enclosure so formed, a smaller one for the protec- 
tion of the women and children. These arrangements 
hastily completed, they rode forth to confront the 
enemy, whom they presently met in number about 
five thousand on their march towards the camp, 
when some skirmishing took place in which several 
of the Matabili were slain. It has already been 
remarked that their principal weapon is a short spear, 
or assegai termed unkonto, which is not thrown, as 
with the Kafir tribes, but used for stabbing, for 
which purpose they rush in at once upon their oppo- 
nents. Terrible as is this mode of fighting to un- 
warlike nations, it is calculated to effect little against 
muskets in the hands of cavalry. Their numbers 
and impetuosity however rendering it impossible 
to keep them from the waggons, the farmers retired 
within the enclosure ; where by the time their guns 
were cleansed, they were furiously assailed by the 
barbarian horde, who with savage yells and hideous 
war cries, poured down like locusts upon the encamp- 
ment. Closing around the circle, and charging the 
abattis with determined resolution, again and again 
did they endeavour to break through the line, or clam- 
ber over the awnings of the waggons. Dealing 
however with men whose lives were the stake, their 



* Waggon poles, 



Chap. XXXVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



857 



attacks were as constantly repelled. Repeated vollies 
of slugs and buck-shot discharged at arm's length 
from the heavy bores of the besieged, ploughed through 
their crowded ranks ; 

<( Even as they fell, in files they lay, 
Like the mower's grass at the close of day, 
When his work is done on the levell'd plain; 
Such was the fall of the foremost slain." 

A desperate struggle of fifteen minutes terminated 
in their discomfiture. Hurling their javelins into 
the enclosure they retired in confusion over the heaps 
of slain, leaving upwards of one hundred and fifty 
of their number dead or disabled on the field. 

In this affair, which took place on the 29th Octo- 
ber, Nicholaas Potgeiter and Piet Botha were killed 
behind the stockade, and twelve other farmers were 
severely wounded. The assault was led in person 
by Kalipi, Moselekatse's principal Captain, and most 
confidential counsellor. Although shot through the 
knee, he contrived to make good his retreat, nor did 
he retire empty handed ; the whole of the flocks and 
herds of the Emigrants amounting to six thousand 
head of cattle, and forty-one thousand sheep and 
goats, being swept away by the barbarians, and safe- 
ly conducted to Kapain. Remounting their horses, 
the farmers took advantage of the retreat of their 
savage foes, to add a few more to the list of slain? 



358 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVII. 



until the sun dsscending below the horizon, let drop 
the curtain upon the scene of carnage. 

This second gentle hint on the part of His Majesty 
had the desired effect. A portion of the farmers 
remained with the wreck of the late flourishing camp, 
whilst others, with all possible haste, conveyed the 
women and children to the Rev. Mr. Archbell's 
Missionary Station at Thaba Uncha; whence, hav- 
ing procured fresh oxen, the whole party fell back, 
and encamped near the sources of the Modder river. 
Here their numbers were shortly reinforced by a 
strong detachment of Emigrants under the guidance 
of Gert Maritz, a wealthy and ambitious burgher 
from GraafF Reinet, who soon contrived to cause 
himself to be elected Governor General. At this 
period the number of waggons assembled near the 
populous Barolong village of Thaba Uncha, amount- 
ed to about two hundred and fifty, and the number 
of souls may be estimated at above eighteen hun- 
dred. 

Maritz's first step after assuming the t reins of 
Government, was to assemble a force for the purpose 
of retaliating upon the Amazooloo Monarch, the in- 
juries that the Emigrants had received at his hands: 
but for which in truth they had alone to thank 
their own obstinacy and imprudence. On the 
3rd of January 1837, a Commando consisting of 
*me hundred and seven Dutch farmers, forty of Peter 



Chap. XXXVIL] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



359 



David's mounted Griquas, and sixty armed sava- 
ges on foot, left Thaba Uncha on their march to in- 
vade Moselekatse's country, under the guidance of 
a warrior, who, having been taken prisoner in the 
affair of the 29th October, durst never again present 
himself before his royal master. Keeping consider- 
ably to the Westward of North, they crossed the 
head of the Hart river, and struck into the Kuruman 
road — by this masterly mancevre approaching the 
Matabili from the very quarter whence they were 
least prepared to expect an attack. A lovely and 
fertile valley, bounded on the North and Northeast 
by the Kurrichane mountains, and in form resembling 
a basin of ten or twelve miles in circumference, con- 
tained the military town of Mosega, and fifteen 
other of Moselekatse's principal kraals, in which re- 
sided Kalipi, and a large portion of the fighting men* 
To this spot were the steps of the Emigrant farm- 
ers directed. As the first streaks of light ushered 
in the eventful morning of the 17th of January, Ma- 
ritz's little band suddenly and silently emerged from 
a pass in the hills behind the houses of the Ameri- 
can Missionaries; and ere the sun had reached the 
zenith, the bodies of four hundred chosen Matabili 
warriors, the flower of barbarian chivalry, garnished 
the blood-stained valley of Mosega. Not a creature 
was aware of the approach of danger, and the en- 
trance of a rifle ball by one of the bedroom 



360 EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVII. 

windows, was the first intimation received by the Mis- 
sionaries of the impending onslaught, One of their 
domestics, Baba, the converted Bechuana, who it 
will be remembered, accompanied the author to the 
King's residence in capacity of interpreter, being 
mistaken for a Zooloo, was hotly pursued to the riv- 
er, into which he plunged, hippopotamus-like, and nar- 
rowly escaped annihilation by counterfeiting death, 
after three bullets had whistled past his protruded 
head. So perfect were the military dispositions 
which the information afforded by the captive had 
suggested, that the valley was completely invested, 
and no avenue of escape remained. The Matabili 
flew to arms at the first alarm, and bravely defend- 
ed themselves, but were shot like sparrows as fast 
as they appeared outside of the enclosure, nor did 
they succeed in perforating the leathern doublet of 
a single Dutchman. But the star of Moselekatse 
was still in the ascendant. At the time of this suc- 
cessful attack he was residing at Kapain, fifty miles 
further to the Northward ; and Kalipi, having sin- 
gularly enough been summoned thither only the day 
before, escaped the fate of a large proportion of his 
brave but unfortunate followers. 

Had Maritz followed up the advantage thus gain- 
ed, and marched at once upon Kapain, Mosele- 
katse could not possibly have effected his escape. 
Inflated by the recent success of his arms, the 



Chap. XXXVH.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



361 



despot was basking in the sunshine of security lit- 
tle dreaming of so sudden an invasion. Struck at 
that moment, another blow would have completed 
the work of destruction, and left the Emigrants 
to pursue their pilgrimage in safety. Blind, how- 
ever, to the obvious course they should have pursued, 
and content for the present with what they had 
achieved, the Boors secured seven thousand head of 
cattle and the waggons that had been taken from 
Erasmus, with which they immediately set out on 
their return, by forced marches; and, accompanied 
by the American Missionaries, who whilst they rea- 
sonably dreaded the summary vengeance of the ex- 
asperated savage, bad now no further field for their 
labours — arrived in a few days at Thaba Uncha, 
without molestation or pursuit on the part of the 
Matabili. 

Magical indeed was the effect which the news of 
this victory produced upon the Dutch Colonists. It 
fanned the smouldering embers of the epidemic into 
a flame, and caused the rage for emigration to burst 
forth and spread like wild-fire. The promise of 
land unlimited, and of relief from taxation, tempted 
hundreds whose remoteness from the Border had 
smothered the incentives which actuated the original 
projectors of the scheme. Another class, who like 
the bat in the fable, had been prudently watching the 
turn that affairs would take, now openly avowed 

46 



362 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XKXVH. 



their abhorrence of the English rule, and freed them- 
selves from its trammels. Some having yielded to 
the claims of relationship, went because their kins- 
men had gone; others to gratify their ambition, their 
love of adventure, or passion for a nomadic life ; and 
not a few from a natural desire to participate in the 
loaves and fishes. For several weeks the whole of 
the frontier line was in a state of ferment and com- 
motion, and large caravans were daily to be seen 
hurrying across the border and flocking to the stan- 
dard of their expatriated countrymen. In the month 
of April, Piet Retief, a gallant and distinguished 
Field-cornet of the Winterberg, who with a very 
large cavalcade was encamped at a distance from 
Maritz, was induced after much entreaty and persua- 
sion to accept the office of Governor and Comman- 
der in Chief — a post which he was eminently quali- 
fied to fill, and to which he was elected by the 
unanimous voice of the United Emigrants. He ap- 
pointed subordinate Officers, enacted wholesome laws, 
and ratified treaties which had already been conclud- 
ed with the neighbouring native Chiefs, the prin- 
cipal of whom are Sikonyela, king of the Manta- 
tees ; Moshesh, Chief of the Basuto ; Moroko, Chief 
of the Barolongs at Thaba Uncha ; Tauani, Chief 
of the remnant of the Baharootzi ; and Peter David, 
Captain of the Lishuani Bastards. This last, it 
will be remembered, is the father of Truey the Gh- 



Chap. XXXVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA, 



363 



qua maid, and the successor of Barend Barends, 
whose exploits have already been sung. One and 
all are the deadly enemies of Moselekatse, ready to 
take up arras against him on the slightest reverse of 
his fortune. 

These arrangements completed, the Emigrants 
once more advanced towards the scene of their for- 
mer misfortunes, and in May last, (1837) upwards of 
one thousand waggons, and sixteen hundred efficient 
fighting men, with their wives, families, and follow- 
ers, were assembled near the confluence of the bran- 
ches of the Vet riviere. A Commando consisting 
of five hundred Farmers, was preparing to march 
on the 1st June, for the purpose either of arrang- 
ing matters with the King, or completely subvert- 
ing his power. This done, their march towards 
Louis Triechard's camp will be resumed— there the 
corner stone of their city is to be laid, and a New 
Amsterdam will rear its head iu the very heart of 
the wilderness. 

Such, in a few words, is the History of the Emi- 
gration of the Border Colonists — an event which, 
while it has materially weakened the North-eastern 
Frontier, has kindled a flame in the interior which 
can be only quenched with blood. The place 
vacated by every Dutch Farmer will doubtless be 
speedily filled by an industrious peasant; and when 
the Colony shall have recovered from the first shock. 



364 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVIL 



it will probably be found not to have suffered 
from the change. Yet, taking a political view 
of this important feature in the Colonial History, it 
cannot but appear extraordinary that so large a body 
of disaffected subjects, from what cause soever their 
discontent may have arisen, should have been per- 
mitted to detach themselves from their allegiance, 
and cross the frontier in open defiance of existing 
laws — taking with them their slaves, and forcibly 
entering the territories of an ally, for the avowed 
purpose of establishing themselves in a position, 
where they might shortly become the most for- 
midable of our enemies. Fortunately however, ma- 
ny and insuperable obstacles are arrayed against 
the success of their scheme. The golden opportu- 
nity of crushing the formidable viper in their path 
is gone ; and Moselekatse having gained wisdom from 
the past, is not likely to be assailed a second. time 
with success. No sooner had the tidings of his dis- 
astrous defeat at Mosega, reached the ears of his 
hereditary foe Dingaan, than the Zooloo tyrant, de- 
spatched an army, with orders to complete what the 
Emigrant Farmers had, in his eyes, so laudably be- 
gun. Already harassed by a long march, in the 
course of which they had suffered the severest pri- 
vations, the invaders were promptly met by the 
Matabili, and routed with terrible slaughter. Tak- 
ing advantage of the confusion, a band of vagabond 



Chap. XXXVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 



365 



Griquas and Korannas, slunk jackal-like into the 
Amazooloo territories from the Westward, and 
were actually in full retreat with a considerable booty 
in cattle, when they too were overtaken by a party 
of the Matabili warriors, and utterly destroyed. 
Thus badgered and worried on all sides, the Lion of 
the North will not again be found sleeping ; and 
granting that the superior strength of the Emigrants 
enables them eventually to despise his opposition, 
their situation will still be far from enviable. Shut 
out from Natal, as a sea-port, by their remote loca- 
tion from the coast; and excluded from the advan- 
tages of Dalagoa Bay by the jealousy of the Portu- 
guese, their supplies, more especially of ammuni- 
tion, must necessarily be extremely limited. By an 
old Colonial law, the transit of gunpowder across 
the border is contraband, and by a late act of Par- 
liament, offences committed within the 25th parallel 
of South Latitude have been rendered capitally cog- 
nizable. Their horses must speedily perish by the 
epidemic already described, and thus precluded from 
hunting they will become solely dependent for sup- 
port upon domestic resources* Admitting that in- 
testine dissensions have not already caused a divi- 
sion, the necessity of obtaining pasturage for their 
numerous herds will shortly compel them to break 
up into small parties; and want of water, the curse 
of unhappy Africa, will couple a similar contuv 



866 



EXPEDITION INTO [Chap. XXXVH. 



gency with any attempt at cultivation. Thus situat- 
ed, the isolated, ammunitionless Emigrant will fall 
an easy prey to the lurking and predatory savage- 
repenting when it is too late, of the folly that induc- 
ed him to resign himself to the hazards of so wild 
an adventure. 

Much then, as these deluded exiles have already 
suffered, and deluged as their path has already been 
with blood, even they can form at present but a very 
inadequate conception of the dangers and difficulties 
with which their undertaking is fraught. Hemmed 
in on one side by Moselekatse, who will never lose 
sight of the past, but tiger- like, will watch his op- 
portunity of revenge, with unceasing and savage vi- 
gilance; and on the other hand by Dingaan, who can- 
not fail to regard their obtrusion with an eye of 
jealousy and suspicion ; surrounded too, by a whole 
host of marauders, who, whatever they may pretend 
to the contrary, are ever on the alert to enrich them- 
selves at the expense of their more opulent neigh- 
bours, the position of the migratory Farmers can 
hardly be said to be improved by the step they have 
taken. They have cast off the yoke of a Govern- 
ment which they felt burthensome, and whilst they 
flourish, are the judges and the avengers of their 
own cause. But to an unprejudiced observer, their 
path would seem strewed with difficulties, and beset 



Chap. XXXVII.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 367 



with perils. Thus far their course has been marked 
with blood, and with blood must it be traced to its 
termination, either in their own destruction, or in 
that of thousands of the native population of South- 
ern Africa. 



47 



DESCRIPTION 



OF 

THE FERiE NATURjE 

THA.T INHABIT 

SOUTHERN APEICA.* 



Order. FERiE. 

Genus, Felis. 

1. Felis Leo, The Lion. Leuew of the Cape CoU- 
mists, Tao of the Matabili, and Bechuana. 

Adult male about three feet eight inches high at the 
shoulder, and less at the rump. Extreme length usu- 
ally about ten feet six inches. Tail three feet long, tufted 
with black hair at the extremity. Ears round and black. 
Five toes on the fore feet, four on the hind. Claws retrac- 
tile, each concealed by a tuft of blackish hair. Hair on 
the body and extremities short, of a tawny yellow color, 
darker on the back, and lighter on the belly. The upper 
parts of the head, the chin, neck, shoulders, and belly, 
covered with long shaggy hairs forming a copious mane. 
The color varying between tawny, brown, and black, ac- 
cording to the age of the animal. A black spot at each 
corner of the mouth. Whiskers strong and white. Eyes 
yellow. Lioness smaller, and without any appearance 
of a mane. 

* With few deviations, I have followed the classification adopted by 
Dr. Smith, in his copious " African Zoology " The descriptions 
have all been drawn up from numerous specimens killed by myself. 



372 



APPENDIX. 



Inhabits variously; usually found amongst reeds in 
open plains. Gregarious, and very common. 

2. Felts Leopardus. The Leopard. Tiger of the 
Cape Colonists. 

Adult male about two feet seven inches high at the 
shoulder, and seven feet six inches in extreme length. 
Claws retractile. Chin, neck, breast, belly, and insides 
of extremities, white. The rest varying in different spe- 
cimens between tawny, fulvous, and reddish brown, irre- 
gularly marked with spots of black, which vary greatly 
in number, size, and appearance, at different ages or 
seasons. Tail about three feet ei°;ht inches Ions:, ringed 
with black. Whiskers strong and white. Eyes yellow. 

Female similar, but smaller. 

Inhabits thick coverts. Monogamous, or solitary. 

3. Felis Jubata. The Hunting Leopard. Luipaard 
of the Cape Colonists. 'Nquane of the Bechuana. 

Size of both sexes about that of a greyhound. Body 
slender ; legs very long ; claws semi-retractile. Belly 
and insides of extremities white ; the rest pale yellow, 
studded with small round black spots, larger on the back 
and outside of thighs. Hair of the upper part of the 
neck and withers, rather long, forming a small mane. 
A black stripe on the ears, and another from the corners 
of the eyes to the angle of the mouth. Tail annulated 
with black and white bars, and tipped with white. 

Inhabits open places. Not common. 

Genus, Hy^na. 

4. Hyama Croatia. The Spotted Hysena. Wolf of 
the Cape Colonists. Impeese of the Matabili. 

Height at the shoulder of both sexes, about two feet 
six or eight inches; much less at the rumps. Extreme 
length about five feet ten inches. Feet with four toes; 



APPENDIX, 



373 



nails not retractile. Head short, and very broad ; muzzle 
and nose black. Lower part of the head, throat, belly, 
and inner surfaces of the extremities, dingy white. Gen- 
eral color of the other parts fulvous brown, irregular- 
ly blotched with circular black spots. Tail sixteen inches ; 
the lower two thirds of its length furnished with long 
black hairs forming a tassel. Hair on the back of the 
neck and withers, long, forming a reversed mane. Both 
sexes furnished with a glandular pouch below the tail. 
Very common every where. 

5. Hyaena Fusca. The Fuscous Hyaena. Strand 
Wolf of the Cape Colonists, 

Usual height at the shoulder, about two feet four inches ; 
much lower behind. Extreme length about four feet 
ten inches. Hair very long and shaggy on the upper 
parts of the neck, back, and tail. General color red- 
dish grey, brindled with brown and black stripes and 
spots. Extremities yellowish, with deep black, trans- 
verse bands. Tail twelve inches ; black, with red hairs 
towards the tip. 

Female similar. 

Less abundant than the preceding, but common. 

6. Hycena Venatica. The Wild Dog. Wilde Hond 
of the Cape Colonists. 

Height at the shoulder under two feet ; rather lower 
behind. Length about four feet three inches. Form 
slight; muzzle pointed. Ground color of the hair sandy 
bay, or ochraceous yellow, irregularly blotched and brin- 
dled with black and variegated spots of exceedingly irre- 
gular shape. Face, nose, and muzzle, black. Tail bushy 
like that of a fox, divided about the middle by a black 
ring, above which the color is sandy, and below, white. 

Hunts in large organised packs. 



374 



APPENDIX. 



Order. PACHYDERMATA. 

Genus. Elephas. 

7. Elephas Africanus. The African Elephant. Oli- 
phaut of the Dutch Colonists. Maelou of the Matabili. 

Male attains the height of twelve feet at the shoulder ; 
droops behind. Extreme length between eighteen and 
nineteen feet. Skin, black ; rough, and nearly destitute of 
hair. Tail short, tufted at the end. Head rounder, fore- 
head more convex, and ears much larger than in the 
Asiatic Elephant. The latter extremely flat, reaching to 
the legs, and overlapping each other on the top of the 
neck. Five toes on all the feet. Tusks arched ; between 
eight and nine feet in length, and weighing one hundred 
pounds. Female upwards of eight feet; usually pro* 
vided with tusks about four feet in length. Mammae two, 
placed between the fore legs. 

Solitary or gregarious in large troops. Common in 
the extensive plains and forests of the interior. 

Genus. Hippopotamus. 

8. Hippopotamus Amphibius. The Hippopotamus. 
Sea Cow or Zeekoe of the Cape Colonists. Imfooboo of 
the Matabili and Kafirs. 

Between four and five feet high at the shoulder, and 
from ten to eleven feet long, Body ponderous and shape- 
less ; legs very short, terminating with four toes. Head 
thick and square, muzzle broad ; eye very small, placed 
in a prominence ; ears small, round, and approximated. 
The upper incisors and canine teeth greatly developed ; 
the latter forming tusks. Skin rough, hard, and very 
thick: entirely destitute of hairs, a few scattered bristles 
on the lips, ears, and tail, excepted. General color pink- 
ish brown, with freckles on the flanks and belly. Tail 
twelve inches. 



APPENDIX. 



375 



Female smaller. Mammae two. 

Amphibious. Inhabits the rivers and lakes of the in- 
terior. 

Genus, Sus. 

9. Sus Larvatus. The Wild Hog. Bosch Vark of 
the Cape Colonists. 

Height at the shoulder about two feet four or five 
inches. Extreme length between five and six feet. Four 
toes on all the feet, the two middle ones only touching 
the ground. Nose elongated, and cartilaginous. Canine 
teeth very strong; those of the upper jaw projecting 
Horizontally, those of the lower, upwards. A tubercu- 
lous excrescene covered with coarse hair, upon the chaff*" 
ron. Color dirty brown. Bristles very long, especially 
on the neck and back. Tail slightly tufted, and upwards 
of a foot in length. Mammae twelve. 

Gregarious. Inhabits the plains and forests. 

Genus. Phas©och;erus. 

10. Phascochmrus Africanus. The African Boar, 
Vlacke Vark of the Cape Colonists. Ingooloob of the 
Matabili. 

Height at the sboulder about two feet six inches. Ex- 
treme length, six feet two inches. Color reddish brown, 
The top of the head, upper part of the neck, shoulders, 
and back, covered with long rigid bristles ; those on the 
top of the head diverging like the radii of a circle. Ca- 
nine teeth very large and long, and directed upwards. 
Head extremely ktrge 3 and muzzle very broad. A large 
fleshy wen behind each eye, and a prominent warty ex- 
crescence on each side of the muzzle, between the eye 
and tusks. Eyes small and sinister. Tail tufted with 
bristles; twenty inches in length, straight and thin* 

Gregarious. Inhabits the plains and forests. 



376 



APPENDIX. 



Genus. Rhinoceros, 

11. Rhinoceros A fricanus. The African Rhinoceros. 
Rhinaster of the Cape Colonists. Chukurooof the Ma- 
iabiii. 

Upwards of six feet high at the shoulder, and above 
thirteen feet in extreme length. Body very robust and 
clumsy. Legs short and small, each with three toes. 
Head long and large. Eyes small and lateral. Snout 
hooked, and resembling that of a tortoise : armed with 
two horns * on the muzzle, placed one behind the other; 
the anterior usually from one to two feet long ; the poste- 
rior generally small, but capricious — in some specimens 
attaining the same, or nearly the same length. Ears 
pointed and approximated, placed on the neck. Skin 
naked ; very thick, rugous, and knotty, but without 
plaits or folds. Colour brownish black. Tail about two 
feet long, laterally compressed at the end, and furnished 
with a few bristles. 

Female similar but smaller. Mammae two. Very com- 
mon in the interior. 

12. Rhinoceros Sinusus. The White Rhinoceros 
Witte Rhinaster of the Cape Colonists. Chicore of the 
Matabili and Bechuana, 

Six feet six or eight inches high at the shoulder, and 
above fourteen in extreme length. Head, four feet long. 
Muzzle truncated, upwards of eighteen inches in breadth ; 
furnished with two horns placed one behind the other as 
in the last species ; the anterior robust at the base, taper- 
ing, and about three feet in length ; the posterior a mere 
excrescence, five or six inches long. Ears pointed and 
approximated, placed on the neck. A square hump im- 
mediately behind them. Eyes very diminutive and late 

* The horns of no two specimens of this animal that came under 
my observation, were exactly the same. Disease or accident not 
unfrequently renders the anterior horn the shorter of the two. 



APPENDIX. 



377 



ral. Legs short and straight, terminating in three toes. 
Tail about two feet long, compressed and bristled at the 
extremity. Hide very rough and knotty, extremely 
thick, with folds and plaits about the neck. Color vary- 
ing ; usually dirty brownish white. 

Female similar but smaller. Mammae two. Very com- 
mon in the interior after passing Kurrichane. 

Genus. Equus. 

13. Equus Zebra. The Zebra. Wilde Paard of the 
Cape Colonists, 

About four feet high at the shoulder, and eight feet 
two inches in extreme length. Shape light and symme- 
trical. Legs very slender. Feet small, terminating in a 
solid hoof. Head light and bony. Ears and tail asinine ; 
the latter blackish, about sixteen inches long, and tufted 
at the extremity. Ground color of the hair white. The 
whole of the body, neck, head, and legs, covered with 
narrow black bands, placed wider or closer together ; the 
upper ones connected with the dorsal line, but not ex- 
tending over the belly, or inside of thighs. Mane erect 
and bushy, alternately banded white and black. Two 
transverse black bands on the ears. Brown stripes on 
the face terminating in a bay nose. A bare spot a little 
above the knee on all four of the legs. 

Female with two inguinal mammae. 

Gregarious. Found within the Cape Colony. Inhabits 
mountainous regions only. 

14. Equus Burchellii. Burchell's Zebra. Bonti Quag- 
ga of the Cape Colonists. Peechey of the Bechuana and 
Matabili. 

Four feet six inches high at the shoulder, and eight 
feet six inches in extreme length. Body round. Legs 
robust. Crest arched and surmounted by a standing 
mane, five inches high, banded, black and white. Ears 

48 



378 



APPENDIX, 



and tail equine ; the latter thirty five inches long flowing 
and white. Muzzle black. General ground color of the 
head, neck, and body, sienna, capriciously banded with 
black and deep brown transverse stripes forming various 
figures, and unconnected with the dorsal line, which 
widens towards the croup. Belly and legs pure white. 
Bare spots above the knees on the inside. 

Female an udder with four mammae. 

Inhabits the plains of the interior beyond the Gareep 
in immense herds. 

15. Equus Quagga, The Quagga. Quagga of the 
Cape Colonists, 

About the height of Burchell's Zebra, but of a more 
robust form. Ears and tail equine as in the preceding ; 
the former marked with two irregular black bands. Crest 
very high, surmounted by a standing mane banded alter- 
nately brown and white. Color of the head, neck, and 
upper parts of the body, reddish brown, irregularly band- 
ed and marked with dark brown stripes, stronger on the 
head and neck, and gradually becoming fainter until lost 
behind the shoulder. Dorsal line broad, belly, legs, and 
tail, white. 

Still found within the Cape Colony. Inhabits the open 
plains South of the Vaal river in immense herds. 

Order. RUMINANTIA. 

Genus. Camelopardalis. 

Mn Camelopardalis Giraffa. The Giraffe. Kameel 
of the Cape Colonists. Intootla of the Matabili. 

In stature the tallest of mammiferous animals. Adult 
male, twelve feet high at the shoulder and eighteen at 
the crown of the head. Legs slender, seven feet in 
length. Feet terminating in a divided hoof. No succen- 
torial hoofs. Body short. Withers elevated, a scanty 



APPENDIX. 



879 



upright, rufous mane extending along the whole neck. 
Back oblique. Tail thirty -four inches long, terminating in 
a tuft of bristly black hair about the same length, which 
reaches to the hocks. Head light and tapering, thirty- 
four inches long ; provided with osseous penduncles, (com- 
mon to both sexes) covered with a hairy skin and terminat- 
ing in in a tuft of black hair. A tuberculum on the chaf- 
fron. No muzzle. Upper lip entire. Eyes large and 
melting. No lachrymary sinus. Ears pure white, and 
ample. Callosity on the breast. Tongue very long, 
pointed, and flexible. General color, deep sienna, with, 
large angular ferruginous spots, variously disposed over 
the whole ; each spot darker in the centre. Belly and 
cheeks white, with dark blotches. 

Female sixteen or seventeen feet in height at the 
crown, of a dirty white color with pale ferruginous spots 
as in the male. Mamma?, four. 

Gregarious in small troops. Inhabits the great plains 
of the interior. 

Genus, Bos. 

17. Bubulus Coffer. The Cape Buffalo. Bufiel of 
the Cape Colonists. 'Neaat of the Matabili, Bokolokolo 
of the Bechuana. 

Adult male about five feet six inches high at the should- 
er, and upwards of twelve in extreme length. Structure 
very powerful. Body ponderous. Neck short. Breast and 
shoulder deep, and slightly dewlaped. Back straight 
and hunchless. Limbs short and solid, terminating in a 
divided hoof, which is nearly circular. Succentorial hoofs 
very long. Tail three feet long, terminating in a tuft of 
coarse black hair, which reaches below the hocks. 
Head short, and small in proportion to the animal's bulk. 
Eyes small and sinister, overshadowed by rough and 
ponderous dark colored horns, nearly in contact at 



880 



APPENDIX. 



the base, spreading horizontally, and turned upwards 
and inwards at the tips, which measure about four feet 
between. Hide bluish black, and naked with exception of 
a few distichous bristles. No lachrymary sinus. Muz- 
zle bovine, square, and naked. 

Female similar but smaller, with smaller and more 
vertically disposed horns. An udder with four mammae. 

Still found within the Colony. Inhabits the plains 
and forests of the interior in large herds. 

Genus. Catoblepas. 

18. Catoblepas Gnoo. The Gnoo. Wilde Beest of 
the Cape Colonists. Gnoo of the Hottentots. Impa- 
toomo of the Matabili. 

Adult male upwards of four feet high at the shoulder, 
nine feet in extreme length. General contour very mus- 
cular, and exhibiting great energy. Head large and 
square. Muzzle large, spread out, and flattened, with 
narrow linear nostrils. Above the muzzle is situated a 
conspicuous tuft of black bristling hairs, radiating late- 
rally, and resembling a blacking brush. A tuft of simi- 
lar hair beneath each eye, concealing a gland which dis- 
tils a viscous humour. Eye wild and fiery. Ears short 
and pointed. White bristles surrounding the eye, like 
the radii of a circle. Numerous white bristles on the up- 
per lip. Horns broad, and approximated at the base ; fur- 
rowed upon the summit of the head ; scarcely advancing 
from the skull, they taper out sideways over the eyes, 
and uncinate up into a pointed hook, sweeping with a re- 
gular curve, and producing a sinister and suspicious as- 
pect. Shoulder deep. Neck thick, and much arched. 
Body round. A pillow of fat on either haunch. Legs slen- 
der and long. A full vertical mane on the neck, com- 
posed of wiry white hairs. A bushy black beard on the 



APPENDIX. 



381 



under jaw and throat; and a bush of full black hair 
between the fore legs, extending some distance along the 
belly. Tail equine, white, and reaching to the ground. 
General color of the hair, deep brown. Hoofs pointed, 
blueblack. 

Female similar, but slighter. Base of horns less ap- 
proximated. An udder with four mammae, 

Very gregarious. Abundant on the plains South of 
the Vaal river. 

19. Catoblepas Gorgon. The Brindled Gnoo. Blauw 
Wilde Beest of the Cape Colonists, Kokoon of the Be- 
chuana and Afatabili. 

Adult male about four feet six inches high at the shoul- 
der, and nine feet eight inches in extreme length. "Wi- 
thers very elevated. Neck not arched. Nose aquiline, 
and covered with coarse black hair. Muzzle broad and 
square : bare, with large hanging nostrils. Horns black 5 
placed horizontally on the head ; the points turned up- 
wards, and then acutely inwards ; a few rugosities at the 
base. A long flowing mane on the neck, extending 
beyond the withers. Chin covered with a copious bristly 
black beard, descending down the dewlap to the breast. 
Tail black, flowing, and reaching to the heels. Ears small 
and pointed. Eyes very high in the head. A large glan- 
dulous naked spot, of an oblong form below each eye, 
distilling a viscous humour. Legs slender. General 
color dirty dun, or sepia grey, variegated with obscure 
streaks or brindles. Four or five cross streaks on each 
arm. 

Female precisely similar, but on a smaller scale. 
Gregarious. Inhabits the plains beyond the Orange 
river in vast herds. 



382 



APPENDIX. 



Genus. Damalis. 

20. Boselaphus Oreas.* The Impoofo. Eland of the 
Cape Colonists. Impoofo, or Pooffo of the Bechuana 
and Matabili. 

Adult male six feet six inches high at the shoulder, and 
about twelve in extreme length. Facial line straight. 
Muzzle broad. Forehead square, covered with a cluster of 
strong wiry brown hair, margined on either side by a yel- 
low streak, commencing above the eyes, and nearly 
meeting halt" way down the face. Horns placed on the 
summits of the frontals ; about two feet long, massy, 
and nearly straight, with a ponderous ridge ascending in 
a spiral direction nearly to the tips. Proportions of the 
body like those of a bull. Neck very thick. Shoulders 
very deep. Larynx very prominent. A broad deep dew- 
lap, fringed with long wiry brown hair, descending to 
the knees. A crest of bristles from the forehead, pass- 
ing upwards and recurrent along the edge of the neck. 
Legs short. Hind quarters very large. Tail two feet three 
or four inches long, with a large tuft of coarse brown 
hair. Hide black. Hair very short. General color rufous 
dun, or ashy grey tinged with ochre. A muzzle. No sub- 
orbital sinus. 

Female smaller and slighter, with longer and more 
slender horns. No dewlap, but a tuft of hair on the la- 
rynx. Color redder. An udder with four Mammse. 

Gregarious. Inhabits the open plains of the interior 
in vast herds. 

* The Bastard Eland of the Cape Colonists, (Boselaphus Carina) is 
doubtless identical with B. Oreas, and cannot be considered a dis- 
tinct species, 



APPENDIX. 



3cS 



21. Strepsiceros Koodoo. The Koodoo. Eechlon- 
gole of the Matabili. 

Adult male upwards of five feet high at the shoulder ; 
ahove nine feet in extreme length. Horns bulky and 
compressed, having an anterior ridge which forms witfi 
them, two complete spiral circles : the tips turned out- 
wards and forwards ; length about three feet ; color 
brown; the tips black with a white point. Chaffron 
straight. Muzzle very broad. Ears oblique, very broad, 
and pointed at the tips, of a light brown color. Week 
thick. Withers elevated. Dewlap anteriorly square. 
Forehead black. A white line passing over the orbits 
unites on the chaffron. Three white spots on either cheek, 
below the eye. Chin white bearded. A long fringe of 
variegated black and white hair on the dewlap, and a 
standing mane on the neck and withers. General color 
of the hair, a buff grey, or sky blue, marked with a white 
line along the spine, and intersected by five or six trans- 
verse lines running downwards to the belly, and four 
more over the croup. Buttocks white. Legs rufous be- 
low the knees. Tail two feet long, rufous, edged with 
white, tapering to a point, and black at the tip. No 
suborbital sinus. An entire moist muzzle. 

Female slighter, hornless, and with fewer and fainter 
white markings. Has an udder with four mammae. 

Gregarious. Still found within the Colony. Inhabits 
thickets and wooded hills. 

22. Acronotus Caama. The Caama. Hartebeest of 
the Cape Colonist — Intoosel of the Matabili. Caama of 
the JBechmna, 

Adult male about five feet high at the withers, and 
nine in extreme length. Shoulders very elevated, and 
head very large and long. The whole animal made up 
of triangles-. Horns placed upon a high ridge above the 



384 



APPENDIX. 



frontals; very close at the base; robust, divergent, and 
again approximating so as to form a lozenge, with dou- 
ble flexures strongly pronounced, turned forwards, and 
the points backwards, with several prominent knots on 
the anterior surface. A black spot at their base, above 
the forehead, continued behind, and terminating in front 
of the ears. A black streak down the nose, commenc- 
ing below the eyes, and terminating at the nostrils. Chin 
black. A narrow black stripe down the back of the 
neck. A black streak on the fore leg commencing about 
mid shoulder ; another down the hind leg commencing 
about the middle of the buttock. A triangular spot of 
white immediately above on each buttock, and a white 
spot above each eye. Tail reaching to the hocks, cover- 
ed wi;h posteriorly directed black hair. General color, 
bright sienna 3 with a deep red cast. A half muzzle. 
No suborbital sinus, but a raucous discharge. Eyes fiery 
red. 

Female similar, but smaller, with more slender horns. 
Mammae two. 

Inhabits the plains of the interior beyond the Orange 
river, in immense herds. 

23. Acronotus Lanata, The Sassayby. Bastard Har- 
tebeest of the Cape Colonists. Sassabe of the Matabili 
and Bechuana. 

Adult male four feet six inches high at the shoulder, 
four feet at the croup. Eight feet two inches in extreme 
length. Horns robust, about twelve inches long, placed 
on the summit of the frontals, turning outwards, and form- 
ing two crescents with the points inwards; marked with 
from twelve to fifteen incomplete annuli. Neck short. 
Body rather bulky. Legs slender. Withers very elevated. 
Head long, narrow and shapeless. Facial line strait. A 
dark streak from between the horns to the nose. Ears fawn 
color, nine inches long. General color deep blackish 



APPENDIX. 



385 



purple brown above, fulvous beneath. A dab of slate 
color extends from the middle of the shoulder to the 
knee ; and another from the middle of the flank to the 
hock, outside. A band of the same color passes across 
the inside of both fore and hind legs, upon a fulvous 
ground. Lower part of the legs, deep fulvous Tail 
twenty two inches long, rufous, and covered with posteri- 
orly directed black hair. Rump fawn color. Eyes fiery 
red. A half muzzle, and very indistinct lachrymary 
perforation. 

Female precisely similar, but smaller, with more slen- 
der horns. Mammae two. 

Gregarious. Inhabits the country of the Bechuana, 
in considerable herds. 

Genus. Antilope. 

24. Aigocerus Harrisi. The sable Antelope. Unde- 
scribed by Naturalists. Unknown to the Matabili. 

Adult male four feet six inches high at the shoulder ; 
nearly nine feet in extreme length. Horns thirty seven 
inches over the curve ; placed immediately above the 
eyes ; flat, slender, sub-erect, and then strongly bent 
back scimitarwise ; at first gradually diverging, and then 
running parallel to each other ; three fourths annulated 
with about thirty strongly pronounced incomplete rings 5 
more rigid on the edges, but chiefly lost on the outside 
of the horn ; the remaining one fourth smooth, round, 
slender, and pointed. Head somewhat attenuated to- 
wards the muzzle, and. compressed laterally. Carcase 
robust. Withers elevated. Neck broad and flat. Hoofs 
black, obtuse, and rather short. Hair close and smooth, 
General color of the coat, intense glossy black, with an 
occasional cast of deep chesnut. A white streak com- 
mencing above each eye continued by a pencil of long 
hairs covering the place of the suborbital pouch, (of 
which cavity no trace is to be found,) and then running 

49 



386 



APPENDIX. 



down the side of the nose to the muzzle, which is entirelv 
white ; the same color pervading the throat and one half 
of the cheek. Ears ten inches long ; narrow, tapering, 
and pointed ; white within, lively chesnut without, with 
black pencilled tips. A broad half crescent of deeper 
chesnut at the base of each ear, behind. A small entire 
sharp black muzzle. A copious standing black mane, 
somewhat inclined forwards, nve and a half inches high, 
extending from between the ears to the middle of the 
back. Hair of the throat and neck longer than that of 
the body. Belly, buttocks, and inside of thighs, pure 
white. A longitudinal dusky white stripe behind each 
arm. Fore legs jet black inside and out, with a tinge of 
chesnut on and below the knees. Hind legs black, with 
a lively chesnut patch at and below the hock. Tail 
black ; long hair skirting; the posterior edge, terminat- 
ing; in a tuft which extends below the hocks. 

Female smaller than the male, with smaller but simi- 
larly shaped horns. Color deop chesnut brown verging 
upon black. 

Very rare. Gregarious in small families. Inhabits 
the great mountain range which threads the Eastern por- 
tion of the Matibili country. 

25. Aigocer us Equina* — The Roan Antelope. Bas- 
tard Gemsbok of the Cape Colonists. Etak of the Ma- 
tabili. 

Adult male about five feet high at the shoulder, and 
nine is extreme length. Horns very robust, above two 
feet in length, strongly bent back scimitarwise, and 
nearly parallel ; with from twenty-five to thirty promi- 
nent rings, more remote from the orbits, and extending 
to within about four inches of the points. Face and head 

* If the Blue Antelope, (Aigocerus Leucophaa) ever did exist, it 
h now extinct. I am disposed to regard it as a variety of the Roan 
Antelope,- and Daniel's Takhait:e, Ui. Barbata,) is probably so toe 



APPENDIX, 



387 



hoary black, with a large white streak before and behind 
each eye, formed of a pencil of long hairs. A white spot 
between the horns, and a white muzzle. Ears of asinine 
dimensions, fourteen inches long, pointed, and the tips 
bent back very eccentrically. Tail descending to the 
hocks, slender black, and tufted. Hair coarse, loose, 
and undulating; mixed red and white, forming a roan. 
Beneath the throat longer and whiter. ?s'eck furnished 
with a stiff upright mane, terminating at the withers. A 
half muzzle. No suborbital sinus. 

Female similar, but hornless. Mammae two. Gregari- 
ous in small families or herds, but rare. Inhabits the 
elevated ridges near the source of the Vaal river. 

23. Aigocerus Ellipsiprymnus. The Water Buck. 
Phitomok of the Matabili. 

Adult male four feet six inches high ; nearly nine feet 
in extreme length. Horns upwards of thirty inches ; 
upright, curved forwards and sometimes inwards, but al- 
ways diverging ; of a whitish green color ; the first third 
slightly compressed ; the other two thirds nearly cylin- 
drical ; very strongly annulated along the front and 
outside to within six inches of the points. Face deep 
brown. Forehead, base of horns, and behind the eyes, 
rufous. A white patch on the throat. Under lip and muz- 
zle white, A white streak before each eye, and a white 
elliptical band encircling the tail. Ears round and large; 
white inside ; brown without, General color of the hair 
greyish brown ; in texture coarse, and resembling split 
whale bone ; shorter on the body, but on the neck long 
and reversed, having the semblance of a mane. Hide 
black, Legs dark brown. Tail brown and tufted, not 
quite reaching to the hocks. A muzzle. ±so suborbital 
indent. 

Female precisely similar, but hornless. Mammae two. 
Gregarious. Found only on the banks of rivers near 
the Tropic, the Limpopo and Mariqua, especially: 



388 



APPENDIX. 



27. Oryx Cayensis The South African Oryx. Gems- 
bok of the Cape Colonists. Kookaam of the Matabili 
and Btchuana. 

Adult male three feet ten inches high at the shoulder ; 
ten feet in extreme length. Horns upwards of three feet 
long; straight, or very slightly bent ; horizontal, diver- 
gent, and tapering to the points; the lower part annulat- 
ed with from twenty five to thirty rings. Eyes high in 
the head. Black space between the base of the horns 
descending in a streak down the forehead ; another pas* 
sing through the eyes to the corner of the mouth, con- 
nected by a third which runs round the head over the 
nose ; a fourth passes from the base of the ears under the 
throat completing the appearance of a head-stall: the 
rest of the head white. Esrs round ; white with black 
edging. General color of the coat vinous buff. The 
breast, belly and extremities white. A tuft of brist- 
ly black hair on the larynx, and the latter edged 
with black. A mane reversed ; and a blacklist stripe 
from the nape of the neck along the back, widening an- 
gularly over the croup, and terminating in a bushy black 
tail, three feet long which sweeps the ground. A broad 
black bar across the elbow, passing along the flank, and 
ending in a wide angular space on the thigh above the 
hocks ; and a black spot upon each leg between the 
knee and fetlock. Nose ovine. No suborbital sinus. 

Female similar, with longer horns. An udder with two 
mammae. 

Gregarious. Principally found in the Karroo, or in 
the open plains of Namaqua land. 

28. Gazella Euchore. The Spring Buck. Spring bok 
of the Cape Colonists. Tsepe of the Matabili and Be- 
chuana. 

Adult male about two feet eight inches high at the 
shoulder 5 and two feet ten at the croup. Extreme length 



APPENDIX. 



389 



about four feet ten inches. Head and face white, resem- 
bling a lamb's. Horns black, lyrate, robust, with about 
twenty complete rings; the tips turned inwards, and 
generally either forward or backwards. General color 
of the hair, yellow dun, with a white croup consisting of 
long hairs which can be erected or depressed at pleasure. 
Belly, throat, and inside of limbs, white, separated from 
the dun by a broad rich chesnut band along the flanks ; 
another along the edges of the folds of the croup ; and a 
streak from the back of the horns through the eyes to 
the nose. A truly ovine nose. Small indistinct lachry- 
mary sinus. Ears long, attenuated, and dirty white. 
Eyes very large, dark, and expressive. Tail eight 
inches long; white, with a tuft of posteriorly directed 
black hairs. 

Female similar, but smaller, with very slender horns, 
and few indistinct an null Mammae two. 
Scattered over the plains in countless herds. 

£9 . Gazella Albifrons. The White Faced Antelope. 
Bles-bok oj the Cape Colonists. Nunni of the Bechuana* 

Adult male three feet eight inches high at the shoul- 
der, and six feet three inches in extreme length. Head 
long and narrow. Muzzle broad. Horns from twelve to 
fifteen inches in length, white, very robust at the base ; 
divergent, with ten or twelve semi-annuli on the anterior 
side. A patch of chocolate colored hair at the base of the 
horns, divided by a narrow white streak, which suddenly 
widens between the eyes to the whole breadth of the face* 
down which it passes to the nose. Ears rather long and 
white, Sides of the head and neck deep purple chocolate. 
The back and shoulders hoary bluish white as if glazed. 
Flanks and loins brown. Belly white. Legs brown out- 
side, white within. Croup and chest rufous. Tail reach- 
ing to the hoCks ; seventeen inches long, with much pos- 
teriorly directed brown and white hair Linear nostrils. 



Ii90 



APPENDIX. 



Very indistinct muzzle. Small circular lachrymary per- 
foration. 

Female precisely similar, but slighter, less vividly col- 
ored, and with more slender horns. Mam nice two, 

Very gregarious. Inhabits the plains South of the 
Vaal river in immense herds. 

£0. Gazella Pygarga. The Pied Antelope. Bon re- 
bok of the Cape Colonists. 

Rather larger than the preceding. Head long, nar- 
row, and shapeless, with a very broad muzzle. Horns 
fifteen inches long; black, divergent, erect, very robust 
at base, with ten or twelve incomplete annuli, broken in 
the middle and striated between. Forehead and face 
white, as in the Bles-bok. Ears long and reddish. Sides 
of the head, neck, and flanks, deep purple brown. Back 
bluish lilac, as if glazed. Legs perfectly white from the 
knees and hocks downwards. Belly and inside of thighs 
white, and a large white patch on the croup. Tail reach- 
ing to the hocks ; white above, with a tuft of posteriorly 
directed black hairs. Small detached lachrymary per- 
foration. Linear nostrils. Very indistinct muzzle. 

Female precisely similar, but on a slighter scale, with 
more slender horns. Mammae two. 

Gregarious. Stili found in Zoetendal's V'ley near 
Cape L'Agulhas. Common in the interior. 

31. Antilope Melampus* The Pallah. Rooye-bok 
of the Cape Colonists, Pallah of the Matabili and Be' 
chuana. 

iVdult male about three feet three or four inches high 
at the shoulder, and six in extreme length. Very high 
on the legs. Horns about twenty inches in length, as- 
cending obliquely upwards, outwards, and backwards; 
and midway at an obtuse angle, obliquely, inwards and 
forwards ; black, coarsely annulated and striated between 



APPENDIX. 



331 



for about two thirds of their length ; the tips smooth. 
Ears round, seven inches long, tipped with black. Tail 
thirteen inches long; pointed, white, with a dark brown 
streak down the middle. Color of the head, neck, and 
upper part of the body, deep fulvous. Sides and hinder 
parts yellow dun. Belly white. A dark brown streak 
down each buttock. A dark spot in place of spurious 
hoofs, which do not occur in this species. A large cush- 
ion of brown hair between the hock and fetlock. A 
white spot before each eye. A dark spot between the 
horns. No trace of a suborbital sinus. Small bare space 
for a muzzle. 

Female similar, but hornless. Eye very large, soft 
and fulL Mammae two. 

Gregarious in small families or herds. Inhabits the 
banks of rivers chiefly in the Bechuana country. 

32. Trageiaphus Sylvatica. The Bush Buck. Bosch- 
bok of the Cape Colonists. 

Adult male about two feet eight inches high and five 
feet two inches long. Form elegant \ somewhat reced- 
ing from the typical structure of true Antelopes, and as- 
suming that of the °:oat. Horns about twelve inches 
long; erect, spiral, and sublyrate ; marked with an ob- 
solete ridge in front, and one in rear ; black, and closely 
wrinkled at the base; points a little bent forward. Gene- 
ral cclor brilliant chesnut black above, marked with a 
narrow white streak along the spine ; two white spots on 
each cheek ; several on the flanks, and two on each fet- 
lock. Inside of thighs, and chin white. Forehead deep 
sienna. A broad naked black band encircling the neck 
as if worn off by a collar. Tail nine inches long ; brown 
above, white beneath. Ears large and round. Moist 
naked muzzle. No lachrymary opening. 

Female similar, but without horns. Mammre four. 

Monogamous or solitary. Inhabits the forests on the 
sea coast. 



392 



APPENDIX. 



3?. Redunca Eleotragus. The Reit Buck, Reit bok 
of the Cape Colonists. Inghalla of the MaiabiU. 

Adult male about two feet ten inches high at the shoul- 
der, and four feet ten inches long. Horns ten or twelve 
inches long ; advanced beyond the plane of the face ; 
divergent, and regularly curved with the points forward ; 
wrinked at the base, and annulated with obsolete wrings 
in the middle. Ears six inches. Tail ten inches long. 
General color of the coat ashy grey tinged with ochre 
beneath white ; hair of the throat white and flowing. A 
small muzzle, and imperfect suborbital opening. 

Female similar but smaller and hornless. Mammae 
four. 

(gregarious in small families, or solitary. Resides va- 
riously, principally among reeds. 

34. Redunca Lalandii. The Nagor. Rooye Rhee 
bok of the Cape Colonists. 

Adult male two feet eight inches high at the shoulder, 
and five feet in length. Horns about six inches long, 
approximating at base, sub erect, nearly parallel and 
hooked forward at the point, wiih five or six semi annnli 
striated between. Legs, head, and neck, tawny. Chin 
and lower parts white. Body fulvous brown with a cast 
of purple. The hair long, loose and whirling in various 
directions. Tail ten inches ; grey with long white hair 
along the edges. Muzzle small. Suborbital opening 
barely perceptible. 

Female similar, but hornless. Mammae four. Found 
amongst rocks in small troops. 

35. Redunca Capreolus. The Rhee Buck. Rhee- 
bok of the Cape Colonists. Peeli of the Bechuana and 
Matahili. 

Adult male two feet five inches at the shoulder, and 



APPENDIX. 



393 



about five feet in length. Body very slender. Neck long-. 
Head small, and ears pointed. Horns about nine inches 
in length ; straight, slender, vertical, and pointed, with 
from ten to fifteen rings at the base. Hair very soft and 
villous, resembling wool. General color whitish grey, 
with a cast of buff; beneath, white. Tail about five in- 
ches; grey, tipped with white. Muzzle naked and moist. 
Suborbital perforation low down, but distinct. 

Female similar, but smaller, without horns. Mammae 
four. 

Found within the Colony, in small troops amongst 
hills and rocks. 

36. Redunca Scoparia. The Ourebi. Ditto of the 
Cope Colonists. Subokoo of t.fa Matabili. 

Less than two feet high at the shoulder, and about four 
in extreme length. Very slight. Horns four or five 
inches long; black ; round, and nearly vertical : wrinkled 
at the base, with four or five annuli in the middle. A 
white arch above the eyes. Tail short and black. Gene- 
ral color, pale tawny ; beneath white ; long white hair 
under the throat ; fulvous tufts below the knees. A 
small muzzle. Lachrymal opening well developed. 

Female similar, but smaller, and hornless. Mammae 
four. 

Found in grassy plains, usually in pairs. 

37. Oreotrogus Saltatrix. The Klipspringer. Ditto 
of the Cape Colonists. 

Adult male about twenty-two inches high at the shoul- 
der, and thirty-six in extreme length. Tail three inches 
long. Form square and robust. Head short and broad. 
Horns about four inches long; round, distant, vertical, 
but slightly inclined forwards ; obscurely wrinkled at 
the base, and annulated in the middle. Legs robust, 

50 



394 



APPENDIX. 



Pasterns very rigid. Each hoof subdivided into two seg- 
ments, and jagged at the edges, so as to give it the power 
of adhering to the steep sides of smooth rocks. Fur 
very thick and long ; bard, brittle and spirally twisted ; 
ashy at base, brown in the middle, yellow at the tips, 
forming an agreeable olive. Suborbital sinus conspicu- 
ous. Muzzle pointed and small. 

Female hornless, in other respects resembling the male. 
Mammae two. 

Common in the Colony. Inhabits rocks and preci- 
pices, in pairs. 

£8. Tragulus Rupestris* The Steenbuck. Steenbok 
of the Cape Colonists. Eoolah of the Matabili* 

About twenty inches high at the shoulder, twenty-two 
at the croup and thirty-five in length. Head short and 
oval. Snout pointed. Muzzle black, ending in a point 
upon the ridge of the nose. Horns vertical, parallel, and 
nearly strait ; four inches in length, slender, round, and 
pointed, with one or two rudiments of wrinkles at the 
base. Ears large, round, and open. Tail barely an 
inch long, having the appearance of a stump, beyond 
which the hair does- not protrude. General color rufous, 
with occasionally a cast of brown or crimson. Belly 
white. Groin naked and black. No accessory hoofs. 
Pasterns very rigid. A detached suborbital sinus. 

Female similar, but without horns. Mammas four. 

Monogamous or solitary. Inhabits the bushes of high 
ground. Common in the Colony. 

39. Tragulus Melanotis. The Grysbok. Ditto of 
the Cape Colonists. 

Adult male from twenty to twenty-two inches high at 

* The Vlackte Steenbok, (Tragulus Rufescens,) and the Bleekbok 
(T. Pediotragus) appear to be merely varieties of this Antelope, and 
aot distinct species. 



APPENDIX. 



395 



the shoulder, and about thirty-six in length. Head very 
broad and short. Snout obtusely pointed. Horns about 
three and a half inches long; smooth, round, slender, 
and vertical, or slightly inclining forwards. Ears round, 
open, and broad. Color deep chccolate red, intermixed 
with numerous single white hairs ; beneath rufous. A 
black horse shoe on the forehead. Detached suborbital 
sinus, and small muzzle. 

Female similar, but hornless. Mammae two. 

Monogamous or solitary. Common in the Colony, 
among the wooded tracts along the sea coast. 

40. Cephalopus Mergens* The Duiker. Duikerbok 
of the Cape Colonists. Impoon of the Matabili. 

Adult male about two feet high at the shoulder, and 
three feet eight inches in extreme length. Horns four 
inches long, approximated, somewhat reclining, bending 
outwards, with a longitudinal ridge on the front travers- 
ing four or five annuli on the middle, but not traversing 
the wrinkles of the base. Forehead covered with a patch 
of long bright fulvous hair. A. dark streak on the chaf- 
Iron. Three dark striae, on each ear inside. A dark 
streak down the front of the legs, terminating in a black 
fetlock, as if booted. Color various ; usually cinereous 
olive above, and white beneath. Tail eight inches long ; 
black, tipped with white. Spurious hoofs scarcely devel- 
oped. A long suborbital slit down the side of the face, 
and a small naked muzzle. 

Female similar, with very small horns, completely con- 
cealed by long rufous hair. Mammae four. 

Solitary or Monogamous. Common in the Colony, es- 
pecially along the coast, among bushes. 

* Cephalopus Burchellii would appear to be a variety only of this 
species, of which no two specimens are exactly alike. 



396 



APPENDIX. 



41. Cephalopus Ccerula. The slate-colored Antelope. 
Blauwbok and Kleenebok of the Cape Colonists. 

Adult male about fifteen inches high, and twenty- 
eight inches long. Head very long and pointed, with a 
spacious muzzle, resembling a rats both in shape and 
expression. A bare spot round the eyes. Ears short and 
round, like a rats. Horns black, conical, reclined, slightly 
turned inwards and forwards, two inches in length, close- 
ly and strongly annulated. General color, dull brownish 
buff, or mouse color, above ; beneath whitish. Legs and 
rump rufous. Tail two inches long, dark above, white 
beneath. No suborbital sinus, but a suborbital sack 
lower down, marked by a lengthened streak upon the 
cheek. 

Female similar but hornless, and more diminutive. 
Solitary. Inhabits the forests along the sea coash 



FINIS. 



897 



PROSPECTUS 

OF 

CAPTAIN HARRIS'S AFRICAN VIEWS, 



The author of this Narrative proposes to publish by sub- 
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ing his Expedition into the Interior of Africa. 

It has been his object to combine in them, as far as pos- 
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the Sportsman, and the lover of Wild Scenery. They com- 
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can Game Quadrupeds, from the Elephant and Giraffe to 
the smallest Antelope, drawn from repeated measurements 
upon a uniform scale of one and a half inches to a foot. 
One or more of each species is depicted in the fore ground 
of an appropriate Landscape twelve by seventeen inches, 
with groups in the distance or middle ground. 

This arrangement has enabled him to convey an accurate 
idea of the nature of the country inhabited by each species; 
also their manner of living, in numerous herds, in small 
families, or singly. Another advantage gained, also, is that 
the kinds of trees aad plants, most common in the districts 
the different animals inhabit, are distinctly shown. 

As the expense of publishing has been estimated at about 
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398 



PROSPECTUS. 



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ADDITIONAL LIS" 



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11 i308 



